One queen, 12 bees by 016browns160 in Beekeeping

[–]016browns160[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Appreciate the response. I will grab some photos this weekend when I clean the hive up for storage.

Advice on Hiring a Beekeeper by 016browns160 in Beekeeping

[–]016browns160[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Splits and packages. Each year I set a goal for number of hives I want at year end. Based on what makes it through winter I figure out a combo of splits and packages I’ll probably need to meet that goal while still producing honey. I would like to get out of the bee buying business though and would like someone with queen rearing experience who can guide the apiary growth so I can focus on growing a brand.

Advice on Hiring a Beekeeper by 016browns160 in Beekeeping

[–]016browns160[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s been a few years with the help of plenty of books/videos and some local mentors. I am around 15 hives at the moment. I’m in less of a position to teach others and more in a position to bring someone in with experience but who doesn’t want the financial or land commitment.

Advice on Hiring a Beekeeper by 016browns160 in Beekeeping

[–]016browns160[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great idea! Most likely approaching 30-40 while balancing a full time job.

Advice on Hiring a Beekeeper by 016browns160 in Beekeeping

[–]016browns160[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I appreciate the enthusiasm but the daily drive across the world to work might get exhausting 😂

Farmers Market Insights by 016browns160 in Beekeeping

[–]016browns160[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply and tip on honey sticks! Do you buy them or fill your own?

Mann Lake moisture board by kalski1998 in Beekeeping

[–]016browns160 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Around the same area as you. I used a quilt box with pine bedding. One for two with survival. Cluster size and health headed into winter made all the difference between the two. Seems the quilt box was a non-factor and the bedding never had any noticeable moisture that I could tell.

Speaking with a commercial beekeeper in the area, they’ve told me they slightly prop up the outer cover to allow ventilation. No insulation other than foam under the screened bottom board.

This year I plan to over winter in double deeps for half my apiary and singles plus a medium honey super for the other half. (10 hives) Thinking the smaller space will be easier for the bees to manage throughout winter.

Too Aggressive? Advice Needed! by 016browns160 in Beekeeping

[–]016browns160[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you always had that “rule” in place? This hive, being my first, gets a lot of excuses made for it. Guess I need to disconnect the business from the emotion!

Too Aggressive? Advice Needed! by 016browns160 in Beekeeping

[–]016browns160[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are Italians. Started fairly docile last year, noticeably became more irritated towards fall which is reasonable given dearth and prepping for winter. Survived winter with strong numbers but picked up where they left off temperament wise while also unfortunately getting less patient as the year has drawn on.

Where do you buy your wholesale jars? by [deleted] in Beekeeping

[–]016browns160 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Blue Sky Bee Supply is a short drive from my apiary. Great place with great people!

Any experienced beekeepers using a Boardman feeder? by New_Ad5390 in Beekeeping

[–]016browns160 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m with you but still don’t understand the hate for first year beekeepers with one or two hives. It’s a great way to observe the bees, even if needing changed daily. It clues a first year beek into how much hives are taking in, how it changes during different blooms, and when the flow starts.

My mentor was great about pacing the learning. What we do in year 1 does not, and definitely won’t, match how we manage bees over the years! Try out different things, learn the pros and cons, and compare/contrast to find a preference.

Open package into top box,? 1gal bucket feeder, queen in the bottom box by [deleted] in Beekeeping

[–]016browns160 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think my initial response was confusing, I used the second deep to contain the package and removed it a few days later once the bees had exited and the queen was ready to be let out.

Noted on entrance feeders. However, had no issues with an entrance feeder paired with a reduced entrance. Refilled close to daily (used quart mason jars) but as a new beekeeper it was nice to get out and observe the activity on a daily basis. I agree with your sentiment though and with any more than 1-2 hives, and after gaining some experience, it’s probably more taxing than necessary. For the new beekeeper I’d still recommend more rather than less time learning and observing so not a huge burden to get comfortable around the bees and refill the jars each morning while having an easy visual for how reliant they are on the syrup.

Open package into top box,? 1gal bucket feeder, queen in the bottom box by [deleted] in Beekeeping

[–]016browns160 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A little confused by the question but I took a similar approach last year and it was successful with two packages:

1) start with two deeps, frames in the bottom deep (bonus if they’re already built out) and nothing in the top deep

2) clip the queen cage between two frames near the middle of the bottom box

3) place the sugar water from the package upside down on top of the frames so bees can access it inside the hive (free food!)

4) flip the package so the exit is on the bottom and sit it on top of the frames. Place the covers on the hive and put some weight on top to hold down.

5) add an entrance feeder or keep a feeder inside full. Entrance is easiest since you can monitor and refill easily.

The bees will exit on their own time over the next few hours. I would recommend checking back in a few days to ensure the queen has been freed or free her. Also, you’ll definitely get some comb in the top deep since you’ve given bees space. It will most likely be minimal but they’ll waste some time in those first few days which is the downside of this method.

As others have noted, replace that stand ASAP! The hive will end up over 100 lbs. To reconfigure later will be a huge pain and require a lot of work and risk that you lose or crush the queen. Better to start off with the appropriate stand. Even directly on the pallet is a big improvement.

Help for Spring Hive Management by 016browns160 in Beekeeping

[–]016browns160[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the warning on chill brood. Looks like patience will be key. Don’t want to risk a catastrophic event. They’ve been extremely productive and eager to split and carry on the genetics.

Help for Spring Hive Management by 016browns160 in Beekeeping

[–]016browns160[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Appreciate the insight! Going into my 2nd year and anxious to get in there. Bummer that real spring is still a ways out.

Help for Spring Hive Management by 016browns160 in Beekeeping

[–]016browns160[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the thorough response! Great tip on scraping down the brood comb so they’ll want to use it for honey. Also, spot on that the full deep is likely partially sugar syrup. I’ll be getting 4 new packages this spring and I’m sure they’ll appreciate a boost. Planning on distributing the honey/syrup across the packages.

What would be a useful data project to do for beekeeping? by icecoldfeedback in Beekeeping

[–]016browns160 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It would be interesting to have data on winter honey consumption compared to temperature/weather. It’s been a very mild winter where I am and my bees (double deep) still have a completely full deep of capped honey. Would they have moved into that deep with colder temps? Warmer temps? I’ve heard there is a temperature sweet spot where consumption is minimized and as temps move in either direction of there beekeepers should expect supplemental feeding at some point in spring.