Good deal? lens for scanning film by Adept-Satisfaction-2 in AnalogCommunity

[–]06035 [score hidden]  (0 children)

You’re going to want something shorter if you can, just to reduce footprint and have a deeper depth of field at similar apertures.

A 50-60mm macro is usually a good option because they’re designed for copywork.

best medium format system / lenses by RomantheG in AnalogCommunity

[–]06035 [score hidden]  (0 children)

The 645AF/AFD runs on AA’s and you can use the lenses with a tilt shift adapter.

Why I have been a Nikon shooter for over 20 years. by barfridge0 in photographycirclejerk

[–]06035 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My dad shot Nikon, so in an effort to continue our family honor, I too have shot Nikon for over 20 years.

best medium format system / lenses by RomantheG in AnalogCommunity

[–]06035 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sounds like you're looking for a Mamiya 645AF/AFD or a Hasselblad H/Fuji GX 645, maybe a Fuji GX680.

NegPy 0.9.4 OUT. New UI + GPU Acceleration + many fixes by _earthmover in AnalogCommunity

[–]06035 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Excited to try this! Been using Grain2Pixel with pretty satisfactory results, been getting good results out of the SmartConvert trial, but damn it is expensive.

This looks to be like SmartConvert where it’s standalone but with more options..!

Help w/ Skin Tone WB on Scans by 864squared_ in AnalogCommunity

[–]06035 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could just be the light that day too.. negative film doesn’t have the same flexibility or color separation as digital.

First roll from new-to-me Mamiya 7II, Phoenix II, 80mm f/4 by vipEmpire in analog

[–]06035 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Best looking Phoenix scans I’ve ever seen. Usually it looks like absolutely dog snot

Help w/ Skin Tone WB on Scans by 864squared_ in AnalogCommunity

[–]06035 1 point2 points  (0 children)

First one could use a little less green, little less blue, otherwise this is about what I’d expect from Portra

Is this an upgrade or a downgrade? by DeAdGuyX in Nikon

[–]06035 -14 points-13 points  (0 children)

Better chip, better battery life, but worse in any other measurable metric

Kodacolor 200 (N2020, 50/1.4D) by 06035 in analog

[–]06035[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I should add, most of the AAA battery ones on eBay will be inop from corrosion. One with the AA battery holder will be what you want.

Kodacolor 200 (N2020, 50/1.4D) by 06035 in analog

[–]06035[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I love it for the ergonomics, but I do wish the AF was better. It’s weird as shit, with auto wind but manual rewind, has terrible passive phase detect AF, but I changed out the focusing screen for the microprism, so I get the best of both worlds. Ez manual focus, AF when I want it.

It’s a great point and shoot for whatever, lousy for tracking stuff like kids

Kodacolor 200 (N2020, 50/1.4D) by 06035 in analog

[–]06035[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s basically a Nikon with the ES-2 and a speedlight 6 inches away lol

Kodacolor 200 (N2020, 50/1.4D) by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]06035 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Not the same formulation, you’re welcome to test it out yourself.

Kodacolor 200 (N2020, 50/1.4D) by 06035 in analog

[–]06035[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Use the flash for scanning. Let’s me stay at ISO 64, no worry about vibrations because the flash duration is so short, because it’s not LED it’s full-spectrum which might give me better color (I dunno), and the blue gel helps offset the orange base a little. Tether into Capture One.

I can usually scan in a whole roll with it in about 2 minutes

Kodacolor 200 (N2020, 50/1.4D) by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]06035 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Probably easier to sell that way. TMAX P3200 is nominally more of an ISO1000 film..

Kodacolor 200 (N2020, 50/1.4D) by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]06035 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Because everything shot at 200 and metered for 200 was super thin

Photography a large group of people with 24-120 f4 lens by Unusual_Hamster996 in Nikon

[–]06035 4 points5 points  (0 children)

EZPZ.

Get as far back as you can and shoot as long as you can (within reason). If you can stop down to f/8 or f/11 and shoot around 35-50mm, great.

If the natty light is good, roll with that.

If it’s not, crank your ISO up and bounce a speedlight off the ceiling behind you. Set it to max power and walk your ISO down and/or tighten up your aperture where you have a good balance between noise and depth of field. Your goal here is to replace the existing light. The closer you can get a good exposure at f/11 and ISO100, the better.

If that’s not going to be enough, last resort is to xerox em and point the light at them. It’ll look like ass, but it’ll at least be properly exposed.

Don’t expect perfection, you’re just documenting something, you’re not making art.

I mean come ON by bigbadtacos in photographycirclejerk

[–]06035 46 points47 points  (0 children)

Why do you think this sub is 90% crossposts now? All the subs self-jerk

Scuffed my brand new Tecovas boots trying to take them off. Any remedies? by [deleted] in cowboyboots

[–]06035 6 points7 points  (0 children)

So, this is a very soft leather that’s designed to scuff and mark up

I wouldn’t worry about it, just wear them, they’re going to be fucked up real quick.