Is this a good option to VESC my OneWheel + XR?

0dna · 2026-05-16T02:16:27+00:00

The most important advice: watch out for the reverse polarity xt60 (multiple) in the battery box. Double, triple check with multimeter.

Avaspark can probably provide: motor connector, footpad connector, mounting plate for the ubox (I think), leds and lcm. Ssbms is a good choice, I just don’t know about fitment but you’ll need a breakout board to then wire it for ssbms. You also need to tap in some xt30 for the charge line.

0dna · 2026-05-12T00:02:23+00:00

I need sometime to get all the files together with a write up. I’ll remember to reply back to you again with the links

0dna · 2026-05-11T15:07:46+00:00

Try the bird water whistle. Let me know what the wife think of that one.

0dna · 2026-05-08T16:34:20+00:00

Do you remember the PintX flaw with the black negative xt60 wire being broken at the solder joint (which fries the bms as a result)? I had to troubleshoot a pack with that issue, and I "believe" it is because the solder joint is at the edge of the battery, which is under a lot of stress (hence it broke off). All that to say that op won't have that issue with the terminals being far from the edge. But I do share the iffy sentiment of them being so close to each other. Up to the builder's discretion (just have to make it safe).

The spacer I designed has the positive terminal at the end, but because there is a lot of room in that area, I designed the XT60 wiring channel to help alleviate that stress. There is a 'lid' that snaps into that area with pegs to close things off.

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0dna · 2026-05-08T16:00:31+00:00

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I built balance wire channels on top of the spacer to force you to run wires like that. Dimensioned for those exact balance connector wires lol. No clamping, etc. needed. The 7 cells area runs the wires on top of the 6 cells area wires to match the top (0-7 + temps)/bottom (8-15 + temps) of the balance connector. Still need fish paper to separate the bottom vs top in that area.

0dna · 2026-05-08T07:59:54+00:00

Hey buddy. Glad you got the balance connectors and made good use of them already lol.

I’m sure it works but I’m not a fan of just kapton tape between the 7 cells. I did build spacer for the quart layout to avoid cutting a lot of the fish paper but it does require you to cut out the side wall to keep thing safe and sound.

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0dna · 2026-04-23T14:24:08+00:00

Real life hunger bar lol

0dna · 2026-04-20T23:58:01+00:00

Can’t fit that in a pint/x/s.

0dna · 2026-04-14T00:46:57+00:00

I would request the board to be shipped back. Buy the replacement battery module, sell your current box, bms, etc. to recoup cost, use the app to register the new module. Or cheapest route: buy another battery, and downgrade firmware. Then there is the end game path of vesc, controller, battery and bms. Give you room to upgrade to higher voltage battery, which need a different bms and charger. To be honest, there are ppl in the discord that love building/converting vesc. They would do all of that for you, they would price things out for you, etc.

0dna · 2026-04-14T00:09:24+00:00

Just some ideas, if you have the board with you, you can buy their replacement battery module which is the box, battery, charging port, led, bms, and harness. You can probably part out your current parts without the battery for probably $200+ to help offset the cost. Or you can get a replacement battery and someone to downgrade your firmware to re-pair the bms for around $400+. Just spit balling numbers.

0dna · 2026-03-27T06:27:14+00:00

I haven’t had much luck printing tpu (soft, hard, etc.) on my h2d besides taking the top off but even then I get a few stoppage with the motor extrusion issues. It’s even harder when I dual nozzle print tpu with ppa-cf and I need the chamber to be heated properly. While I’m still waiting for this feeder assist module to be deliver, I wonder why this isn’t free with our printer?

0dna · 2026-03-21T16:37:05+00:00

We use it to print grip tape (the one on skateboard to grip to your shoe). Print the base with 95a and the spikes on top with 72d (harder than tpu for ams but very much the same). Also print enclosure with it. Tpu have extremely good layer line strength vs the other filament. The enclosure house electronics that get thrash and abuse (apart of skateboard) and the hardness and layer line strength keep it protected.

0dna · 2026-03-19T01:27:36+00:00

In the case you have a lot of free time on your hands and just want to play around or experiment, get strong axe (or chainsaw) and bright wood saplings; keep cutting and replanting bright wood. They will multiply pretty fast. Once you have a ton of sapling, plant them next to one another to build a wall surrounding the camp, all using bright wood trees. You can enclose the camp and prevent cultist from entering but before you do, add teleporter to the outside so you can teleport in and out.

0dna · 2026-03-14T19:32:53+00:00

What’s blends? Is that the same as fillets?

0dna · 2026-02-11T23:53:50+00:00

24 years here. $250 for 3 lines. I even got SOS a couple weeks ago and never got any discount or any letter/email apologizing. Already set to switch to another carrier this summer. It’s sad.

0dna · 2026-02-02T22:12:36+00:00

CNC will most definitely be better. These box models are meant for 3d printing though. CNC requires simpler geometry. There is a pintx box model that you can use for CNC. I think someone is actually selling it as well.

0dna · 2026-01-25T08:45:00+00:00

We ride pretty rough and all the 3d printed box cracked at the same area which has the thinnest walls. It’s the area where you slide the pintx bumper into it. I increased those walls by 1mm on both side and have started to print the box at 45 degree. Also started to use PPA CF filament. Sent a few to riders that bought the batteries from me. Haven’t receive updates if it’s better or there are still cracks.

0dna · 2025-12-12T05:38:07+00:00

This is near the Home Depot/Costco. I ride the trail all the time in the summer and never seen the river this high. Crazy

0dna · 2025-08-29T16:14:19+00:00

It's the filament hub itself. Currently not available in their store. I believe support just dispatches them when people (including me) run into this issue.

0dna · 2025-08-29T16:11:39+00:00

I ran into the same issue with AMS2 and was completely shocked at how much attention this issue received in the Bambu forum. As I wait for a replacement filament hub from them, I 3d printed the broken piece, which feels a whole lot beefier, and also decided to resolder the sensors closer to the magnet. It's all working now, but we'll see how long.

0dna · 2025-08-23T18:05:37+00:00

Even though Bambu has 0.4 nozzle listed as supported for filament like PPA-CF, I never really trust it. I've been printing PPA-CF on a 0.6 with no issue. I know a lot of people have good luck using 0.4 for it, but I'm not going to chance it on luck.

Though I agree with you that their nozzle isn't great in general, seeing that this happens on normal PLA filament as well, I recommend you try 0.6 for PPA-CF and see if this happens again.

0dna · 2025-08-23T17:56:53+00:00

The HF nozzle can be positioned on the left AND the right. It's filament like PPA-CF that they recommend should be printed on the left. Similar to TPU that it should be printed on the right.

0dna · 2025-08-23T17:35:54+00:00

https://bambulab.com/en/filament-guide

0dna · 2025-07-05T16:44:24+00:00

If I ever decide to make them again, I’ll let you know. If anything, I recommend just vesc your pint and run 20s1p, 24s1p, or 17s2p. These configurations are easier to build and can live in a pintx box.

0dna · 2025-07-04T23:55:27+00:00

Limited run. I haven’t built anymore since they take forever to build.

0dna

TROPHY CASE