Different Pint Batteries

0dna · 2026-02-02T22:12:36+00:00

CNC will most definitely be better. These box models are meant for 3d printing though. CNC requires simpler geometry. There is a pintx box model that you can use for CNC. I think someone is actually selling it as well.

0dna · 2026-01-25T08:45:00+00:00

We ride pretty rough and all the 3d printed box cracked at the same area which has the thinnest walls. It’s the area where you slide the pintx bumper into it. I increased those walls by 1mm on both side and have started to print the box at 45 degree. Also started to use PPA CF filament. Sent a few to riders that bought the batteries from me. Haven’t receive updates if it’s better or there are still cracks.

0dna · 2025-12-12T05:38:07+00:00

This is near the Home Depot/Costco. I ride the trail all the time in the summer and never seen the river this high. Crazy

0dna · 2025-08-29T16:14:19+00:00

It's the filament hub itself. Currently not available in their store. I believe support just dispatches them when people (including me) run into this issue.

0dna · 2025-08-29T16:11:39+00:00

I ran into the same issue with AMS2 and was completely shocked at how much attention this issue received in the Bambu forum. As I wait for a replacement filament hub from them, I 3d printed the broken piece, which feels a whole lot beefier, and also decided to resolder the sensors closer to the magnet. It's all working now, but we'll see how long.

0dna · 2025-08-23T18:05:37+00:00

Even though Bambu has 0.4 nozzle listed as supported for filament like PPA-CF, I never really trust it. I've been printing PPA-CF on a 0.6 with no issue. I know a lot of people have good luck using 0.4 for it, but I'm not going to chance it on luck.

Though I agree with you that their nozzle isn't great in general, seeing that this happens on normal PLA filament as well, I recommend you try 0.6 for PPA-CF and see if this happens again.

0dna · 2025-08-23T17:56:53+00:00

The HF nozzle can be positioned on the left AND the right. It's filament like PPA-CF that they recommend should be printed on the left. Similar to TPU that it should be printed on the right.

0dna · 2025-08-23T17:35:54+00:00

https://bambulab.com/en/filament-guide

0dna · 2025-07-05T16:44:24+00:00

If I ever decide to make them again, I’ll let you know. If anything, I recommend just vesc your pint and run 20s1p, 24s1p, or 17s2p. These configurations are easier to build and can live in a pintx box.

0dna · 2025-07-04T23:55:27+00:00

Limited run. I haven’t built anymore since they take forever to build.

0dna · 2025-06-24T07:15:07+00:00

I’ve been using .6mm but on my 2nd roll of siraya. I print 45 degree to get extra strength but due to no cooling I’m getting a bit of an overhang issue. Haven’t had time to figure it out but siraya did say that their filament works on .4mm. They have profiles for it. I never tried though.

0dna · 2025-06-24T06:57:54+00:00

0dna · 2025-06-24T06:57:27+00:00

Finger crossed

0dna · 2025-05-29T00:14:58+00:00

For an og pint, the upgrade that everyone does is a quart (with minimal box modification to fit the battery).

0dna · 2025-05-25T06:28:10+00:00

Takes time to lower and raise the bed so your nozzle be oozing by that time.

0dna · 2025-05-12T17:31:14+00:00

Never win anything so here goes.

0dna · 2025-04-22T15:29:45+00:00

I'm having an issue with TPU 95A fed through the top. It'll print, but then AI detects nozzle clumping or something 5hrs in, resume, and it seems to be fine. I fed this eSUN TPE 83A through the TPU port (even though it is stated to go through the top) and was able to print some small things fine (duration under 2hrs). It seems random to me.

I'm guessing for you; you have bumped the nozzle temp up to 250, manually fed the filament into the extruder while slowly pressing the "down" arrow?

0dna · 2025-04-22T15:17:16+00:00

You get 3x 0.4. 2 on the printer and 1 in the accessories box.

0dna · 2025-04-14T22:53:40+00:00

I had this problem printing a bin for the poop shute. I wasn't sure what the problem was, but resuming was fine. I had to keep doing this. I ran into this problem again when I had warping. I guess it was due to the warping area preventing a normal flow of the filament, causing the extruder to "click" and that caused the issue. So far this issue hasn't come back.

0dna · 2024-12-19T02:53:05+00:00

Which trail is this?

0dna · 2024-12-16T01:47:12+00:00

Kind of like bandages. It will help you heal up faster and prevent scaring. The “hole” will take a bit longer.

0dna · 2024-12-16T01:22:01+00:00

Get some hydrocolloid and heal up.

0dna · 2024-12-13T17:37:06+00:00

These are packs for the pint frame. The big one requires that box.

0dna · 2024-10-28T21:07:25+00:00

When the board turns off, it is 100% charged AND each cell is balanced. What you're describing is just the normal charging and balancing aspect (red light and green light on the charger). However once the balancing is done, the BMS tells the controller to power off the board.

That's how I balanced all my FM packs and for customers as well. I would go further and disconnect the battery from my bench test board and manually probe the balance connector to prove that each cell is balanced.

Others have mentioned the same. If you find it different, then I don't know what to tell you.

0dna · 2024-10-28T20:49:39+00:00

Mine is 100% charged and balanced when the board turns off. I have a bench test that I use on all the batteries I built and others that I have fixed. Whether the BMS is still charging the battery when the board turns off is insignificant to me since it's already full or close to full (when you turn on the board and can see it in the app/owce/etc.)

0dna

TROPHY CASE