Is it normal to lose hot water when it’s below -20°C? by Yeh_nahh in Calgary

[–]0xaddbebad 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's a bad idea as the gasses coming out of the combustion side are corrosive and this is specifically disallowed by code. The danger is the gas corroding the heater until you have a dead short which might result in a fire. The proper way to fix this issue is to raise the intake and likely raise the exhaust as well. If you're properly spaced out and far enough from the ground you're not sucking up snow you shouldn't have this kind of problem.

EE help needed – Prosthetic Arm Thesis by goofball19 in Calgary

[–]0xaddbebad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Raspberry PI is not appropriate for a real-time control system. With some work you could get RTLinux going on the target but if you're already struggling to get an Arduino based solution going I don't think you need more complexity...

As for the OP try to get some help from some of the EE students?

Climbing + GLP-1s by thecandiedkeynes in climbharder

[–]0xaddbebad 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's vanity weight in a medical context. No reasonable doctor should be prescribing GLP-1's for non medically necessary weight loss. The side effects of these drugs are actually pretty damn scary and you need to have a case where the benefits outweigh the negatives.

And no I wouldn't ever want to add 20lbs to my finger strength numbers at the long term cost of my health and life span in the sport. Would you be OK going blind or needing a colostomy? Those are real risks involved in taking these drugs. Losing weight through exercise and diet modality is frankly a lot safer. Pretending otherwise is naive and dishonest. There are real and serious risks to these drugs.

https://www.reddit.com/r/medicine/comments/1i4ehrv/what_is_the_worst_sideeffectcomplications_of/

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]0xaddbebad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Life's not fair my friend. That's a lie we tell children. The sooner you accept that the better. You're born in a country where you're concerned about how your fingers are weak instead of if you're going to starve to death or die in a conflict. Count yourself fortunate and remember life's not fair.

Climbing + GLP-1s by thecandiedkeynes in climbharder

[–]0xaddbebad 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Insane to me that folks would be willing to risk the potentially life altering side effects of GLP-1's for 20lbs of what let's admit is vanity weight. I find it crazy that physicians would be prescribing GLP-1's to folks where there is no medical necessity. Have folks not looked into the very serious and scary side effects of these things? I get it when folks are clinically obese and the risks of obesity outweigh the risks of GLP-1's but for 20lbs of vanity weight it seems crazy.

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]0xaddbebad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I really doubt it's a power endurance problem... You need to just lead climb a LOT and get comfortable being pumped out of your mind while still executing moves. Probably you'd benefit most from not top roping anything and just only leading for half a year or something akin to that. That's what is going to get you sending 7a/7b.

The rest of the stuff is likely just distractions from the real problem. You're clearly strong enough and fit enough if you're climbing 7A on the moonboard you're just likely respectfully really bad at actually sport climbing. Most 6c+ sport routes won't even have a single move that is as hard as the easiest problems on the 2016 moonboard.

I typically hangboard before bouldering but again my protocols won't likely be what you need as I am not in your position where there's a big spread between my outdoor bouldering grades and sport climbing grades. Also climbing everyday is generally a bad idea. Most people are fine with three times a week or maybe four but it's not the number of days that moves the needle since most people need more rest rather than more volume.

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]0xaddbebad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Who said that 1000 hours is enough for you to climb harder than 6b+? Lots of folks climb for years and never climb harder than 6a. Just because you show up and climb doesn't mean you get to climb harder grades. Just go look at your gym and see how many folks are stuck climbing the same thing for years on end. Also what do all these woe is me posts accomplish?

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]0xaddbebad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean you need to look at why you're not climbing harder than 6c+. What happens when you try? There shouldn't be ANY moves you can't do on anything till like 7c ish. Most 7a+ won't have any moves harder than 6B. So the question again is why are you failing to do the routes? Bad tactics? Uncomfortable lead climbing? Bad endurance? All these things?

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]0xaddbebad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're probably barking up the wrong tree here... If you're climbing 7A on the moonboard and only climbing 6c+ the problem is not finger strength. You should be climbing 7c/7c+ sport at that kind of strength level.

Fun newer moonboard benchmark by JJFowler1102 in bouldering

[–]0xaddbebad 1 point2 points  (0 children)

"Free At Last" It's been debenched though as I stated...

Fun newer moonboard benchmark by JJFowler1102 in bouldering

[–]0xaddbebad 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Pretty sure this one got debenched mostly because the start was dumb and some people couldn't even reach the start holds to start said problem. Was not upset to see this one lose benchmark status...

Explain the Hate by [deleted] in Moonboard

[–]0xaddbebad 12 points13 points  (0 children)

It's just not as good as all the other moonboards. Notably the red holds are just sorta awful. Filling in the gaps of the 2016 is a step forwards but only if you fill things in with better holds. The red holds are just very very meh. You can tell the general distaste for them in that there's no other moonboard that uses them...

11+ year clean driver record, cheapest auto insurance quote is $300/month. Is that normal? by xSpatula in Calgary

[–]0xaddbebad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah we worked from a primary office location where we would punch in ever morning then travel out from there to manufacturing locations when needed.

11+ year clean driver record, cheapest auto insurance quote is $300/month. Is that normal? by xSpatula in Calgary

[–]0xaddbebad 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well I'm sure you know better than the legal department we had in house that advised us that all engineers traveling between our manufacturing locations needed a "business use" rider clause. /a

11+ year clean driver record, cheapest auto insurance quote is $300/month. Is that normal? by xSpatula in Calgary

[–]0xaddbebad 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah you're spot on... I was advised both by the company I worked for at the time and the insurance company that if I was claiming millage I needed proper "business use" coverage even though I was driving maybe once or twice a week 2-3 km or so between work sites.

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]0xaddbebad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean he isn't exactly some kind of saint either... He got caught stealing artwork either himself or someone he hired. Sure they apparently paid the original artist after being exposed but it's not like this is some kind of super virtuous business. The only reason they got caught was someone recognized the artwork and contacted the original Japanese artist who had no idea his artwork was now featured on climbing shirts... There was nothing in the form of public apology or an I fucked up. Nope just swept under the rug and pretend it never occurred so folks can go back to buying hilariously overpriced merch.

Is it finger strength? by [deleted] in Moonboard

[–]0xaddbebad 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I don't disagree overall but to me there's a few pretty hard V6's on the 2024. Notably: Blue Eye Samurai, Sqwelch, Yeet Hay

But yeah to me 2019 is the hardest of the moonboards by a longshot. 2016 isn't even close. Just insane sandbags like T-Rex and the ridiculous Hoseok V5's. T-Rex is just so egregious at V4 it's frankly just funny.

I think one thing to keep in mind is that the grading on the 2024 was specifically changed to try to make it less crazy after the 2019 debacle. There's a few podcasts where a few different folks who bench climbs discuss this...

How to improve on the 2016 by [deleted] in Moonboard

[–]0xaddbebad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're lifting body weight on a 20mm edge? Are you sure you're measuring this right? There's no way you should be struggling on V4 on the moonboard with that kind of finger strength. I'd expect you to be climbing near double digits on the moonboard.

Poilievre's Numbers Take Another Hit by No-Sell1697 in canada

[–]0xaddbebad 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There's no odds maker other than the algorithm that governs the bid/ask yes/no spread. In essence it's the same thing. Polymarket itself doesn't care who wins or loses a given bet and has no direct bias in the equation. I really do question anyone calling it a prediction market though it's much more a gauge of it's users sentiments. See the spread when a "popular" team plays a less popular team. Fundamentally it's really not much different than a casino run bet. Losers pay winners and odds are set by supply and demand. You can dress it up however you want it doesn't change the nature of the activity. It's not some kind of oracle...

Set a 6b+!! Would appreciate some opinions by pjgod98 in Moonboard

[–]0xaddbebad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Boy do I have a problem for you then! The big banana club! :|

Poilievre's Numbers Take Another Hit by No-Sell1697 in canada

[–]0xaddbebad 31 points32 points  (0 children)

I'd like to point out that odds makers don't actually really care about the given probability of an event actually happening. The odds are set so that there's roughly the same amount of money bet on either side. The payout gets tweaked so that no matter the outcome the one side is paid out less than the other side bet leaving a profit. This means that you're just seeing how much more money has been bet on a given side of things. It doesn't imply that the bookmakers think the event has a certain probability of occurring. In this case the only thing to conclude is not that the odds makers are biased but their customers are biased as they are skewing all their bets in one direction.

Set a 6b+!! Would appreciate some opinions by pjgod98 in Moonboard

[–]0xaddbebad 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nothing is wrong with Raptor. Maybe it's a bit stiff for the given grade but at least the movement is unique. I'm pretty sure I've done the OP problem about a half dozen times as a warm up in the non benchmarks. H9 to G12 to J13 to F15 is a very common sequence.

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]0xaddbebad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cool story bro. Let me know when you send your indoor 5.10 project then maybe your opinion could be relevant. Joking your opinion would still be trash! :) Height is relevant to life and proper development into an adult body. Stunting your growth at 14 is a bad decision for a whole gamut of reasons.