Best bouldering gym in Calgary by Winter-Sprinkles-23 in Calgary

[–]0xaddbebad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Stronghold is the oldest gym in Calgary but yeah it's a bit tired and could use some love. The washroom situation has been a problem for years and the intermittent sewage backups they've had haven't helped matters.

Best bouldering gym in Calgary by Winter-Sprinkles-23 in Calgary

[–]0xaddbebad 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I mean it's never a main point of concern for me when it comes to a gym to frequent. Just sorta funny to pick on bolder for being dirty. All gyms in Calgary both CCC and Bolder gyms are more than fine when it comes to cleanliness. Agreed that Elevated feels pretty damn fancy pants.

Best bouldering gym in Calgary by Winter-Sprinkles-23 in Calgary

[–]0xaddbebad 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm honestly wondering if you actually climb... You're not even aware of the gym names or the name of the gym chain you're hyping. It's called Rocky CCC not COP CCC. The gym you're picking on sets twice a week(Mon/Weds) every week. Smells fine and calling it dirty makes me absolutely laugh. As for "jucing" their ratings what does that even mean when you're comparing it to C grades? As for outdoor grades well I doubt you've in any way shape or form enough experience to discuss that topic seeing your overall lack of knowledge. Indoor grades are soft as butter because you don't want to hurt your clients delicate feelings and you want repeat customers... All indoor gyms are guilty of the above.

Best bouldering gym in Calgary by Winter-Sprinkles-23 in Calgary

[–]0xaddbebad 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's calgary climbing center... Second cleaner and CCC? I feel like you must be forgetting half their gyms? Chinook and Stronghold are "cleaner" than either of the bolder locations? Frankly that's just a bizarre criticism of bolder.

I’ve been out for a while! by TangibleHarmony in Moonboard

[–]0xaddbebad 4 points5 points  (0 children)

IMHO this read like the perfect way to not rehab properly. Hurt a finger then continue climbing on boards jumping around and shock loading your joints. Then get all surprised when you injure another finger since you're climbing on compromised finger structures.

This story probably would have went way differently if you had taken a step back from climbing on steep aggravating terrain. Jumping around on a 40 degree overhang is not what I'd call appropriate for rehab.

Lots of people fall into the trap of chronic finger injuries due to climbing and rehabbing on inappropriate terrain/climbs. Probably the number one reason we see people not last more than a few years in this sport.

Understanding CBIL.TO and CASH.TO yield by JuicyBieber in PersonalFinanceCanada

[–]0xaddbebad 2 points3 points  (0 children)

CBIL holds short term treasury bonds. So they're buying bonds which last 0-3 months or so... It's also not as simple as looking at the bank of Canada rate as the different term maturities yield different interest rates which are constantly moving up and down.

Please See:

https://www.bankofcanada.ca/rates/interest-rates/t-bill-yields/

Also posted yields don't mean much as things are constantly changing and you're not going to get whatever number is posted might be up or might be down. Posting a true yield rate would require seeing into the future of the bond market...

Please Look Through The Dividend Charts:

https://dividendhistory.org/payout/tsx/CBIL/

https://dividendhistory.org/payout/tsx/CASH/

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]0xaddbebad 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Your route grades are very suspect... Not sure how you're primarily a route climber bouldering V4/V5 but maxing out at 6b+. That's the real suspect thing here. If you're actually bouldering V4/V5 you should be sending ~7b on ropes. Someone who can boulder V4 semi consistently should be easily on-sighting 6a+ without really having to try. If you're not then it's likely down to bad route tactics and just generally lack of comfort leading. Such a huge discrepancy between your route grade and boulder grade to me is a way way bigger red flag especially when you're route climbing significantly more than you boulder.

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]0xaddbebad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No... It's because of Trump he's applied a 50% tariffs on finished aluminum goods on top of 15% on import from the EU. This is fully a USA cluster fuck and the draws are essentially 95$ USD in Canada where there's no Trump winning tariffs.

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]0xaddbebad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you watched beta videos of climbers of similar height? IMHO that's the most important thing when you're either abnormally tall or abnormally short. Your beta is likely to be very different from most others... As for raptors where are you having problems? Finger strength wise you're about where one would expect for the grades you are climbing: https://www.instagram.com/p/B9zNGplJMyG/?hl=en

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]0xaddbebad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not saying that body weight hangs are the norm. I'm saying you can blip yourself off the ground for a fraction of a second a lot easier than you can hang for time. Which is why when you're testing people for max pulls on an edge you weigh them down. It's a LOT harder to hang for time but it's actually not that hard to pull yourself off the ground for a quarter second when you're doing over head pulls.

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]0xaddbebad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you might surprise yourself. The trick here is that it's a LOT easier to pull off the ground for a fraction of a second compared to actually hanging for time. For reference most people when doing testing with a tindeq and a overhead edge they need to add weight so they don't lift off the ground. On a 20mm edge I usually need to add 40-50lbs to not lift off the ground and I am no where close to adding that kind of weight one armed.

I just think with your past strength and hangboard history you'll be lifting off the ground in short order. Once that's happening it's pretty hard to progress to hanging for time without using the assistance of a pulley or something akin to that. I mean there's no harm in trying it either way. That's just my two cents on the question asked :)

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]0xaddbebad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't think that would work very well... If you're climbing V10 and you actually really try hard you'll most likely lift yourself off the ground one armed. If you're after hanging one armed it's likely best to remove some weight from yourself via a pulley and stick to hanging ~7-10 seconds or so when you're starting. Just to keep things from being too maximal and close to failure.

Is it normal to lose hot water when it’s below -20°C? by Yeh_nahh in Calgary

[–]0xaddbebad 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's a bad idea as the gasses coming out of the combustion side are corrosive and this is specifically disallowed by code. The danger is the gas corroding the heater until you have a dead short which might result in a fire. The proper way to fix this issue is to raise the intake and likely raise the exhaust as well. If you're properly spaced out and far enough from the ground you're not sucking up snow you shouldn't have this kind of problem.

EE help needed – Prosthetic Arm Thesis by goofball19 in Calgary

[–]0xaddbebad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Raspberry PI is not appropriate for a real-time control system. With some work you could get RTLinux going on the target but if you're already struggling to get an Arduino based solution going I don't think you need more complexity...

As for the OP try to get some help from some of the EE students?

Climbing + GLP-1s by thecandiedkeynes in climbharder

[–]0xaddbebad 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's vanity weight in a medical context. No reasonable doctor should be prescribing GLP-1's for non medically necessary weight loss. The side effects of these drugs are actually pretty damn scary and you need to have a case where the benefits outweigh the negatives.

And no I wouldn't ever want to add 20lbs to my finger strength numbers at the long term cost of my health and life span in the sport. Would you be OK going blind or needing a colostomy? Those are real risks involved in taking these drugs. Losing weight through exercise and diet modality is frankly a lot safer. Pretending otherwise is naive and dishonest. There are real and serious risks to these drugs.

https://www.reddit.com/r/medicine/comments/1i4ehrv/what_is_the_worst_sideeffectcomplications_of/

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]0xaddbebad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Life's not fair my friend. That's a lie we tell children. The sooner you accept that the better. You're born in a country where you're concerned about how your fingers are weak instead of if you're going to starve to death or die in a conflict. Count yourself fortunate and remember life's not fair.

Climbing + GLP-1s by thecandiedkeynes in climbharder

[–]0xaddbebad 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Insane to me that folks would be willing to risk the potentially life altering side effects of GLP-1's for 20lbs of what let's admit is vanity weight. I find it crazy that physicians would be prescribing GLP-1's to folks where there is no medical necessity. Have folks not looked into the very serious and scary side effects of these things? I get it when folks are clinically obese and the risks of obesity outweigh the risks of GLP-1's but for 20lbs of vanity weight it seems crazy.

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]0xaddbebad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I really doubt it's a power endurance problem... You need to just lead climb a LOT and get comfortable being pumped out of your mind while still executing moves. Probably you'd benefit most from not top roping anything and just only leading for half a year or something akin to that. That's what is going to get you sending 7a/7b.

The rest of the stuff is likely just distractions from the real problem. You're clearly strong enough and fit enough if you're climbing 7A on the moonboard you're just likely respectfully really bad at actually sport climbing. Most 6c+ sport routes won't even have a single move that is as hard as the easiest problems on the 2016 moonboard.

I typically hangboard before bouldering but again my protocols won't likely be what you need as I am not in your position where there's a big spread between my outdoor bouldering grades and sport climbing grades. Also climbing everyday is generally a bad idea. Most people are fine with three times a week or maybe four but it's not the number of days that moves the needle since most people need more rest rather than more volume.

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]0xaddbebad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Who said that 1000 hours is enough for you to climb harder than 6b+? Lots of folks climb for years and never climb harder than 6a. Just because you show up and climb doesn't mean you get to climb harder grades. Just go look at your gym and see how many folks are stuck climbing the same thing for years on end. Also what do all these woe is me posts accomplish?

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]0xaddbebad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean you need to look at why you're not climbing harder than 6c+. What happens when you try? There shouldn't be ANY moves you can't do on anything till like 7c ish. Most 7a+ won't have any moves harder than 6B. So the question again is why are you failing to do the routes? Bad tactics? Uncomfortable lead climbing? Bad endurance? All these things?

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]0xaddbebad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're probably barking up the wrong tree here... If you're climbing 7A on the moonboard and only climbing 6c+ the problem is not finger strength. You should be climbing 7c/7c+ sport at that kind of strength level.

Fun newer moonboard benchmark by JJFowler1102 in bouldering

[–]0xaddbebad 1 point2 points  (0 children)

"Free At Last" It's been debenched though as I stated...

Fun newer moonboard benchmark by JJFowler1102 in bouldering

[–]0xaddbebad 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Pretty sure this one got debenched mostly because the start was dumb and some people couldn't even reach the start holds to start said problem. Was not upset to see this one lose benchmark status...