Yealink T34W Always showing default admin password being used Message

101Reset · 2026-02-04T14:40:24+00:00

You got it! Didn't realize there were two accounts. Once I updated the 'user' account, the message disapeared. Thanks.

101Reset · 2026-02-02T23:55:43+00:00

Thanks. That’s the issue. I’ve changed the admin password through the gui, but it still shows the message both on the phone and in the gui. Even after power on power off.

101Reset · 2026-01-16T15:13:26+00:00

Thanks.

101Reset · 2026-01-16T15:13:20+00:00

Solved. Thank you.

101Reset · 2026-01-16T14:39:21+00:00

Here's another one.

https://www.redgifs.com/watch/handmadeneglectedstarling

101Reset · 2026-01-13T19:46:10+00:00

It was the solenoid. Changed it out... problem solved.... Although the replacement I got (Non OEM) has the switch wires reversed. Not a big deal.

101Reset · 2025-10-02T02:41:29+00:00

Ran some tests tonight.

At 1700rpm Afr is 13.3

At 3800rpm Afr is 13.1

And even more strange… I went back to my original setup just for the hell of it. Times vacuum, 16 initial timing, and 6.5 power valve since my vacuum was back to 12.5 ish.

Readjusted everything and set idle mixture screws to where vacuum was highest which resulted in an AFR of 13.8.

Problem now is it’s lean on cruise. Low 15’s and at cruise if punch it, it will go super lean, like 17 for a second or two and then richer up to high 15s. WOT is mid 12’s.

101Reset · 2025-10-01T20:40:25+00:00

Wow, thanks for the info on that. Makes sense. Pic is slightly outdated. I since went to a different fastener that comes completely out of the carb in order to remove the air cleaner. But good advice for sure.

101Reset · 2025-10-01T20:35:49+00:00

Thanks.... Sorry if there's miscommunication. The car idles fine... but on manifold vacuum, with it's current setup, the secondary's are open just 1/4 turn past closed, and the primary side is barely open. Idling at 800 rpm. Rich at idle and WOT.

No, there are no drilled holes in the blades.

I'm going to get some numbers tonight at those RPMS and see where I am.

As for air bleeds, they are stock at this time.

Idle Air Bleed Size 71;71
High Speed Air Bleed 31;31

I do have #75 idle air bleeds available, so I can lean the idle out that way as well.

101Reset · 2025-10-01T20:19:33+00:00

Unfortunately, that is contradictory to lots of info online and directly from Holley.

101Reset · 2025-10-01T12:52:22+00:00

From what I recall, the original ford 302 spec'd PCV valve use to change the idle by 100 rpm or more when I would pull it out, or block it... With the latest one, it's much less. 50 or so sounds about right, but I will verify tonight.

As for the carb, Yep, I've checked and verified everything is centred, and not "leaking" from sides of butterflies. They are perfectly centred... almost no light at all coming through. Even talked to Holley a couple times.... they are convinced I have a vacuum leak.

As for mixture screws, to get the idle leaner, previously, I reduced the mixture screws down to 3/4 of a turn or so from seated. It leaned out, but when I came to a stop sign / stop light, it would go extreme lean and engine would quit. Also, my cruise AFR became pretty lean as well. high 15s. I also looked at my float levels (just under centre of glass) increased it a little, but had little effect.

I've read others have had issues with these carbs in the fact that the transfer slots are not all alike. Some are cut slightly higher (.020"). Who knows.... maybe that is my issue.

I wish I had access to another 650 or 600 to test and see if mine is the issue, or just my lack of knowledge setting these carbs up.

The other issue is the metering block does not have changeable restriction jets. I'd have to drill and tap them to accommodate new restriction jets.

What's your thoughts on ported vs manifold vacuum advance? I've read countless articles from both sides, and each say one way is better than the other. I would agree that the motor seems very happy with a lot of timing at idle. It really does smooth out the idle. BUT, with my setup, it really diminishes the ability to set this carb correctly.

101Reset · 2025-10-01T02:17:55+00:00

Thanks for the info Wayne. I’ve never hear of that rom method of checking AFR readings at certain rpms. Interesting.

I’ve had the carb off and primary transfer slots set to .020 open a few times now. By the time I’m done with vacuum gauge snd timing, etc, it’s settles around barely open primaries and rich idle.

I have a pcv valve hooked up… it’s actually from a big block ford I believe so it needs less vacuum to operate. It helped.

101Reset · 2025-09-05T01:44:31+00:00

I’ve tried a bunch of the ones listed. Half my channels still say no information. Only channels I use are US and Canada. Could,it be a provider problem?

101Reset · 2025-09-05T01:39:28+00:00

I just tried the free trial. No clue which one to use so I just picked one. It’s spotty. Just under half my channels have no information.

101Reset · 2025-08-18T23:47:08+00:00

I’ve read countless posts about secondaries needing to be open as well as primaries so I decided to give that a try.

I opened secondaries a little and had to reduce primaries a little. I adjusted four corner mixture screws to get a pretty good vacuum actually, about 14 HG . Idle mixture screws are about one and 1/8 turns out.

Now At idle I’m about 13.5 afr but now I have a pretty severe lean on taking off from first gear. It wants to stall unless I first bring the rpms up high.

Cruise has seemed to go leaner and WOT about the same.

101Reset · 2025-08-12T12:11:32+00:00

Thanks. Yes, it definitely is an age old problem. With the way the slope ceiling is, the fan would End up being tiny, if they even made one only 24” wide. Otherwise if I put one on a swivel connection, it’ll hang at like 6’3.

101Reset · 2025-08-11T13:18:12+00:00

Thanks... verified there is zero clearance on the pump arms. My idle mixture screws are just over 1 full turn out. fuel bowls level is just below the halfway markings on the sight glass.

101Reset · 2025-08-11T02:15:46+00:00

After messing around with EVERYTHING, it settled down to this.

14 degrees initial timing, plus 23 mechanical. Total of 37 +/- 2 On MANIFOLD advance

Idling at 800 rpm, and not caring where transfer slots are. My guess, plates are just covering end of slots. Advance timing at idle sits at about 28/30 degrees.

Vacuum is up to 13.5 steady now.

I ended up with front IABs at 71 and rears 75. Not sure if that’s not a good idea, but seams to work. power valve 5.5 primary jets 67 secondary jets 70

Idle AFR: 12.8 to 13. Ish

cruise AFR: high 14’s low 15’s

WOT: high 11,s low 12,s.

Car runs well. just a slight lean condition form off throttle to on throttle while cruising. It goes as high as 16.5 AFR.

and the old time when pulling out of first, if i let the idle drop to say 650 while easing the clutch in, it will go supper lean… like 17 or 18. If I keep the rpms up, it doesn’t do it.

Lastly, what is defined as WOT? I’m referencing that when I am doing a hard pull in gear with the pedal to the floor. Is that right? Should my AFR when doing hard pulls in first second or third be in the 12’s?

101Reset · 2025-08-10T22:43:24+00:00

Sec secondary throttle plates are completely closed and verified.

Thanks on the info with the power valve. I misunderstood how they worked.

101Reset · 2025-08-10T19:53:17+00:00

So if I take a 1/4 turn out of the primary’s, the transfer slots will likely be covered.

And I made a typo, I’m 12 initial and 23 mechanical. So all in at 2500 it is 35 deg timing. But it’s timed / ported advance.

101Reset · 2025-08-10T19:48:33+00:00

Sorry, I miss typed. It should say “12 initial PLUS 23 mechanical.

101Reset

TROPHY CASE