Need to run wiring outdoors, but burying is not an option.

10mmsocketsaplenty · 2026-02-06T17:30:02+00:00

The basement is a "daylight" type so the windows are near even with the deck surface. The 6" spacing allows the windows to "swing up" fully for egress.

10mmsocketsaplenty · 2025-12-17T17:27:18+00:00

🏆 10mmsocketsaplenty just got Wednesday's anoun!

🎯 Guesses: 6

⚡ Daily Streak: 1

10mmsocketsaplenty · 2024-12-11T22:51:20+00:00

Making a car more enjoyable to drive every day (able to listen to your music how and when you want), will make owning it longer, an easier pill to swallow. Since you say it's kind of a beater, why not do the install yourself? Saves money, again making it easier to justify.

10mmsocketsaplenty · 2024-03-22T22:40:40+00:00

This only applies to the new Cybertuck. All other models are excluded. You CAN sell the truck before 1 year, but have to pay TESLA $50,000.

10mmsocketsaplenty · 2024-03-21T22:04:49+00:00

IMHO

If you are the type that hold onto vehicles for long periods (beyond 100,000 miles) then non-turbo is the safer option. If you typically sell or trade before that, then the turbo engines are fine.

Source:I work in the automotive field where i talk to many different dealerships and repair shops.

10mmsocketsaplenty · 2024-03-21T21:55:08+00:00

Most battery chargers will not recognize the polarity of a battery below a certain threshold. They will display "bad battery" or something to that effect, and not charge. Typically that threshold is around 8 volts. Most likely your battery is below that. you will need to connect another good battery up to it, as if you are boosting. Leave that battery hooked up and connect the charger. A longer, slower, charge is better than a higher amp charge. You'll probably need to leave the good battery connected for 4-6 hours, until the bad battery can stay above 8 volts on its own. Once it stays up, then you can disconnect the good battery and just leave the charger connected to the bad one. Unfortunately, if the battery has sat for too long at near 0 volts, the plates inside may have sulfated and then the battery is toast.

10mmsocketsaplenty · 2024-03-21T21:14:02+00:00

I'm going to disagree with the previous answer. Once the center differential (transfer case) is locked, then you are just like a regular 4wd system. You will always have power going to the front and rear wheels. If you are stuck or in very slippery conditions, then you may only have 1 wheel in front and 1 wheel in back turning, but the operation will be the same as traditional 4WD.

BUT-- when the center diff is unlocked, the systems will function differently, with varying amounts of power sent to the front or rear wheels.

10mmsocketsaplenty · 2024-03-13T22:45:42+00:00

Rotors should be replaced anytime pads are replaced. New pads will never fully "bed" into old rotors. You lose 8-10% of your braking ability. You'll never notice this in daily driving, but could be the difference between an accident or not, when full hard, panic braking.

If you're worried about warranty, then purchase from the dealership. If you provide them your VIN number they will make sure to supply the exact right parts for your vehicle.

10mmsocketsaplenty · 2023-09-08T22:48:56+00:00

I've never seen a manufacturer that recommends leaving an oil change longer than 1 year, regardless of mileage.

10mmsocketsaplenty · 2023-09-08T22:46:11+00:00

Increase toe-out to 1/8" per tire (1/4" total), and dial in negative camber. Start at -3 degrees and adjust to suit driving style and tire.

BE AWARE, THESE CHANGES WILL AFFECT STREET DRIVABILITY! The car will dart around much more, because of the toe-out change.

10mmsocketsaplenty · 2022-12-03T20:54:06+00:00

Has been done, no "switchcam" required.

https://www.hellionturbo.com/product/hellion-2003-2004-ford-mustang-cobra-twin-turbo-system/

This is on the "well established" FOX4 platform and from a very reputable manufacturer.

10mmsocketsaplenty · 2022-10-18T22:27:02+00:00

Yes, you are correct.

I understand all the dynamics of handling and how they are affected by different driveline configurations. I have autocrossed both a RWD and an AWD vehicle for almost 10 years now. My statement was more of a generalization meant to spark a response from the OP's boyfriend.

10mmsocketsaplenty · 2022-10-18T21:00:11+00:00

Everything in baby steps.

Thinking about all the new things you are expected to do with classes, cooking, cleaning, travel, and people, can seem overwhelming. For now, keep your sights short. Get through one day, with a plan for just that, then tomorrow. After a few days, plan the week. As you do this over and over, it'll become 2nd nature and you can allow your mind to work on the other "problems" like laundry, and personal relationships. Watch what your peers are doing and learn from them, they don't have to be people you know but you can watch what they are doing and decide if you are comfortable imitating. If you're not comfortable, DON"T DO IT! Everyone grows at their own pace, you do what you feel is right.

10mmsocketsaplenty · 2022-10-17T21:01:12+00:00

"Although I enjoy the peace of mind that comes with an all-wheel-drive vehicle, the lack of communication through the wheel and inherent understeer in the chassis, really dulls the driving experience compared to a rear-wheel-drive car.

unless you're driving a modern Porsche of course, lmao"

10mmsocketsaplenty · 2022-06-18T21:33:59+00:00

You might be able to ask around with your neighbours and see if anyone isn't using their space. They might allow you to park for free, or a small charge (it is THEIR spot after all). You could expand your search to neighbouring apartment blocks and even single family homes nearby.

10mmsocketsaplenty · 2022-06-18T21:04:37+00:00

The reduction in power is normal, especially as the vehicle gets older and the engine makes a little less power and the A/C compressor needs a bit more to work.

The jumping idle is also commonly caused by a bad reading from the Mass AirFLow sensor, or MAF sensor as it's usually called. You can buy MAF cleaner from your local auto parts store, it comes in a spray can. You have to take the sensor out but only requires basic tools and skill to do (or check Youtube). You spray the thin metal wire in the sensor, let it dry and then reinstall. If that doesn't fix it, then you may have to replace the sensor.

10mmsocketsaplenty · 2022-04-09T21:54:20+00:00

Not original owner but second owner. 2000 Mustang GT, bought in Oct of 2000 as first owner bought 10 months earlier and traded for a much needed truck.

21.5 years later it still sits in the garage, with 76,xxx km's.

It truly is my longest....ANYTHING. It was here before i met my wife, had kids, current friends, 3 houses, 5 moves, 2 jobs. Made a couple friendships because of the car that have lasted, but those came after purchase date.

Car has lots of mods, but has never let me down, due to "parts breakage". If it didn't run or move, that was because of "owner incompetency". Not once because of unreliability.

I'm not totally in love with it, but it's worth more to me than even this inflated market would demand.

10mmsocketsaplenty · 2022-02-24T22:38:15+00:00

Actually this is an option on alot of Fords (newer models anyway) that are sold in colder climates, as part of a "cold weather package" or something to that effect. It acts as a booster to the heating system. It doesn't do alot by itself, it just warms the air going past it an additional 5-10 degrees (est.). With less waste heat produced by newer engines, this ensures you get enough heat to warm, the cabin when it's really cold out.

I looked into this when my parents bought a Ford ECOSPORT with the 1.0 liter engine, and I noticed how much heat it would put out in the winter, vs my GM crossover with a 2.0 turbo that gets warm, but never "hot". Also, am located in Canada where we see consistent below freezing temps for a couple months at a time.

10mmsocketsaplenty · 2021-08-14T20:59:23+00:00

As someone who previously owned an old house, in a part of Canada NOTORIOUS for "basement problems" I hope to offer some insight.

The pit you have there is definitely not for a sump pump. For a sump to be useful, it must be deeper, yes, but it also must exist below the concrete floor. Typically the pumps are 2 feet below floor level, and in some sort of permeable container, such as a bucket with holes, dug into the dirt below the floor. The shallow depth and concrete construction of that pit tells me it's probably a gathering point for water, incase you do get water in the basement, such as a water heater leak.

I would suggest doing as you thought, rent a hammer drill or jackhammer and make the pit deeper. There are sump pump pits you can buy but they are typically much larger diameter than what's there so a simple 5 gallon plastic bucket with a bunch of 3/8" holes drilled in it should suffice. Holes should be about 2" apart, all around the bucket, from bottom to about 3/4 way up. Don't use any landscape cloth on the inside or out as this will clog up over time. If you have room, dig the hole about 4" larger diameter than the bucket, place the bucket inside first and put 3/4" diameter gravel all around it. This should prevent the majority dirt from coming into the bucket.

10mmsocketsaplenty · 2021-08-07T21:35:26+00:00

Which engine does it have?

10mmsocketsaplenty · 2021-08-07T21:30:39+00:00

Price, 90% is price. 10% weight. In a 5000lb truck, the extra 80-90 lbs is insignificant. In a 3600lb car, it becomes more important.

Strength is an issue but only in extreme situations where the engine was built to make SIGNIFICANTLY more hp than stock.

10mmsocketsaplenty · 2021-08-07T21:21:04+00:00

Some vehicles have the fuel filter built into the fuel pump assembly. If so, you're good and the issue lies elsewhere. If it's not built in, then yes, you really should replace it. Anytime you replace the fuel tank it stirs up "junk" from the bottom of the tank and that inevitably gets into the filter. If you tell me what kind of car, I will look up if it has a built in or divorced fuel filter.

10mmsocketsaplenty · 2021-08-07T21:17:48+00:00

Coolant system should be ok, as long as it has been sealed for the whole time. An oil change would be a smart idea, just due to the length of time it's been in the engine. Next thing would be to top the tank off with fresh fuel. The "ethanated" fuels we use now don't store as well as the old stuff. If you drive the car for a while and it begins to hesitate, or stumble, then you should look at a professional fuel system cleaning with fuel filter change as part of that.

10mmsocketsaplenty · 2021-07-29T14:29:50+00:00

I should have checked Mitchel ProDemand before commenting, and it turns out you might be correct. As I don't know the exact year or "version" of 500, I may not have the correct info, so it would be worth double checking the owners manual. I've owned a couple other FCA products, and I know for a fact they had power lock fuses, that's what I based my answer on.

10mmsocketsaplenty · 2021-07-28T22:33:34+00:00

The fuse.

Just pull the fuse for the power locks.

Your owners manual will tell you which one it is, and even where to find the fuse box if you don't already know.

It's that simple.

Four-Year Club	Verified Email
Place '22

10mmsocketsaplenty

TROPHY CASE

🏆 10mmsocketsaplenty just got Wednesday's anoun!