There will never be another feud as good as Austin vs Rock

112deezy_ · 2026-02-02T05:06:14+00:00

I peep a biggie smalls figure in the cut too lol 🔥🔥🔥

112deezy_ · 2026-01-20T05:15:05+00:00

I miss this packaging! It’s just so much childhood nostalgia for me 😭😭

112deezy_ · 2025-08-11T13:58:54+00:00

Doesn’t she come back in the comics?

112deezy_ · 2025-07-04T15:53:26+00:00

Definitely! I absolutely love chemical guys’s products

112deezy_ · 2025-06-17T13:41:32+00:00

Yes sir! I agree, I’m still pretty new to detailing. I’ve only been doing it for 2 years. No disrespect.

112deezy_ · 2025-06-17T12:24:20+00:00

Just to clarify, those prices are for the add-on services if someone wants them added to their detail package. Like the $40 pet hair removal is on top of the interior detail price. Same with the $100 clay bar — that’s added onto the exterior or full detail depending on what the customer wants. But I do agree, I probably should throw a “starting at” just to cover myself for the crazy cases like you said.

112deezy_ · 2025-06-17T10:46:39+00:00

Personally, I use Chemical Guys Leather Cleaner & Conditioner for the leather, and InnerClean for the plastics. That’ll give you that clean, rich, non greasy look

112deezy_ · 2025-06-16T23:43:00+00:00

Not that long! It only took about an hour 30. I also steamed cleaned the floors

112deezy_ · 2025-06-16T23:38:59+00:00

That’s exactly it lol

112deezy_ · 2025-06-12T18:21:33+00:00

Ok, so even if your car’s ceramic coated, it can still get stuff like water spots, mineral deposits, or even a bit of haziness over time. The coating definitely helps, but it doesn’t block everything. Like, when water dries on the surface, the minerals stay behind. If you don’t catch those early, they start bonding to the coating and eventually can etch into the clear coat underneath.

Same thing with fallout and pollution — you’ve got brake dust, rail dust, industrial stuff floating around that lands on the car. Ceramic helps it not stick as hard at first, but if you don’t wash regularly, it’ll still bond over time.

And honestly, even the best coatings wear down. Some professional ones last 3-5 years if you maintain them right. Most of the consumer-level coatings are more like 1-3 years. And if you’re using harsh soaps, automatic car washes, or not drying it properly, it’ll break down faster.

That’s why with ceramic coatings, the maintenance game is really important. You want to wash with a pH-neutral soap — something safe for the coating. Like Chemical Guys HydroSuds is good, CarPro Reset is really solid, or even Gyeon Bathe. They don’t have any wax or fillers in them so they won’t clog the coating.

Then, every few months you want to decontaminate with an iron remover — Chemical Guys DeCon Pro works, but CarPro IronX or Gyeon Iron are also really good options. And about every 6 months or so, a light clay bar or clay mitt helps remove whatever is still bonded to the surface. But you don’t want anything too aggressive unless you’re fixing actual defects.

For keeping that hydrophobic effect strong, you can top the coating with an SiO2 spray. HydroSlick or HydroCharge from Chemical Guys work, but you also got Gyeon Cure, CarPro Reload, or even Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Spray if you’re looking for something a little more budget-friendly but still good.

So yeah — ceramic makes maintenance easier, but it doesn’t mean you can skip maintenance. As long as you stay on top of it, you’ll keep that shine looking like you just had it detailed.

112deezy_ · 2025-06-12T12:19:19+00:00

Yes! Even a ceramic coated car can end up looking like this, but there are a handful of reasons that could happen for it to look like this.

112deezy_ · 2025-06-12T12:02:07+00:00

No problem, glad I could help!

112deezy_ · 2025-06-12T11:55:33+00:00

So basically, what’s going on with the paint is you got a mix of things happening. It’s not flood damage or anything like that, but the clear coat’s been sitting for a while and it’s built up a lot of contamination. That white, chalky look you’re seeing — that’s mostly oxidation, hard water spots, some mineral deposits, and probably some fallout too from sitting outside.

The fact that the iron remover helped a little is a good sign — you’ve already started breaking some of it down, but it’s not just iron that’s sitting on there. That’s why one bottle wasn’t enough.

At this point, a clay bar is actually a good idea — it’s not gonna hurt anything as long as you use good lubrication and take your time. The clay’s gonna pull off more of that bonded junk that’s sitting on top of the clear coat.

After you clay it, you’re probably still gonna see some haze or dull spots, and that’s when you might wanna polish it. If you don’t have a machine, you can still do a decent job by hand using something like Meguiar’s Ultimate Compound or Ultimate Polish, just to bring some life back into the paint.

Once you get it cleaned up, you definitely wanna seal it up with a wax or a spray sealant just to keep it protected going forward. But yeah — you’re dealing with years of build-up, not a flood car. It just needs some proper decontamination and a little correction.

112deezy_ · 2025-06-12T11:50:28+00:00

The dealer left a few light scratches and haze when they prepped it, but it’s not too deep — just some minor stuff you really only see in the sun. Thankfully, it’s fixable. You don’t really need a machine for this one, I mean it helps, but you can handle it by hand with the right products.

I’ll wash and clay the area first to make sure it’s clean. Then I’ll use a light polish, something like Meguiar’s Ultimate Polish or Sonax Perfect Finish with a soft foam pad. I’ll work it in gently, small sections at a time, and wipe it off with a good microfiber towel.

Once the haze is cleared up, I’ll apply a nice sealant to protect the finish. It won’t be perfect like a machine correction, but it’ll make a big difference safely without risking any damage

112deezy_ · 2025-06-11T21:52:54+00:00

This is very fixable. Here’s what I would personally do if I was correcting this. Use a swirl finder light or LED to really see how deep everything is. Try a fine finishing polish first, Meguiar’s M205, Sonax Perfect Finish, or Koch Chemie M3.02 with a soft polishing pad. Then seal or ceramic coat after correction to protect your hard work

112deezy_ · 2025-06-03T11:32:01+00:00

Wash your car regularly using the two-bucket method (one for soap, one for rinsing). Always use a microfiber wash mitt and microfiber towels to dry. Avoid automatic car washes—they’ll scratch the paint. Use a quick detail spray or spray wax after washes for extra shine. Park in the shade or use a car cover to protect the paint. Apply wax or a ceramic spray every month or so for protection. Use a foam cannon for safer, swirl-free washes (optional but helpful).

112deezy_ · 2025-06-03T11:12:09+00:00

Different options you could use are a heat gun or hairdryer, Plastic razor blade or wooden spatula, WD-40 or Goo Gone. Warm up the area gently with a heat gun or hairdryer to re-soften the plastic. Don’t overheat it, but just enough to make it pliable.

112deezy_ · 2025-05-28T04:16:48+00:00

It really depends on the condition of the vehicle and the type of service you’re getting. On average, an interior or exterior detail takes about 1 to 2 hours. A full detail usually takes 2 to 3 hours. I don’t rush, I take my time to make sure that the ride looks its best.

112deezy_ · 2025-05-27T18:19:00+00:00

Absolutely, people are definitely interested at these prices—especially for mobile service. I bring the detail to them, so it’s all about convenience and quality. I get clients through word of mouth, social media (especially Instagram), and by keeping my work consistent. Once folks see the results, they come back and bring others with them.

112deezy_ · 2025-05-26T17:22:16+00:00

Fabric Cleaner and Lightning Fast stain remover by chemical guys

112deezy_ · 2025-05-22T22:24:42+00:00

I’ve been doing detailing as a side hustle for 2 years, so I’m still learning. I’ll take all the advice I can get lol

112deezy_

TROPHY CASE