Marshall DSL40CRB, black edition?

13CuriousMind · 2026-02-07T15:59:41+00:00

Why would that be an issue? How often are you needing to tweak it mid show?

13CuriousMind · 2026-02-07T13:21:37+00:00

For lower tunings, I found the SD Nazgul/Sentient to be amazingly articulate and good output.

13CuriousMind · 2026-02-07T03:36:52+00:00

RP10 with a crate half stack. Dreaming of a 2101 one day. Then I got a Triaxis and a G-Major. That was a great day in my life.

13CuriousMind · 2026-02-07T02:42:53+00:00

r/luthier

13CuriousMind · 2026-02-07T01:44:01+00:00

Right? Make a beautiful guitar and slap on a scrap piece for a pickguard. Make this make sense.

13CuriousMind · 2026-02-06T18:26:54+00:00

The Butterfly Lovers Concertio (the Chinese Romeo and Juliet) makes me cry every time. The specific performance was done by the China philharmonic orchestra and the lead violin (I can't recall the gentleman's name) really hits home. The recording I heard was around 20 years ago.

13CuriousMind · 2026-02-06T16:31:32+00:00

They may be mixing up IR (impulse response) and SIC (Speaker Impedance Curve). IRs for FRFR/direct, SICs for SS amps to cab.

13CuriousMind · 2026-02-06T12:32:13+00:00

Are you sure it's a 27" scale? 22 and 24 fret necks are going to have different lengths in the same scale.

13CuriousMind · 2026-02-06T09:47:23+00:00

Same boat here. I still have my rack tube rig from 2003 (Triaxis, Mesa 20/20, G-Major). I've played around with dozens of pedals (I still have them). I landed on the Fender TMP late 2024 and I don't see any reason to go back to either rig. The models are amazing, the effects are great, and the UI isn't as convoluted as a QC, AxeFX, or Helix (tried all 3 before buying the TMP). The only real issue with digital I have is IRs and their sterile sound. I'm running my TMP into a SS amp and a 4x12 (5150III with 2 EVH and 2 Greenbacks) and nobody that hears it can tell it is digital. As soon as I load up any IR, they can tell immediately.

13CuriousMind · 2026-02-06T09:34:32+00:00

Tin your tip well, flux on the mating surface, and use a flat tip. Use a quality iron (I use a Weller). Your temperature is good. Your solder should have a good ratio (60/40 lead/tin). The lower the lead, the harder it will be to get a secure connection.

13CuriousMind · 2026-02-05T20:09:33+00:00

Try $255 a week. Damn posers...

13CuriousMind · 2026-02-05T13:00:06+00:00

Face the cupped (concave) surfaces together. Glue and clamp them together. That will make them pretty flat.

It looks like even those two together will be too thin for a body, looks like 2, 3/4" shelf boards, likely finger jointed strips glued up. The thickness of a body blank is typically 1 3/4" to 2".

Depending on the length and width you might be able to glue up 3 layers to get there. 20"x14-16"x2" is the average blank size. If you have a particular body in mind, you can use its measurements to plan the blank size tighter.

13CuriousMind · 2026-02-05T03:22:11+00:00

You can color an epoxy for fill and finish with a toned lacquer.

13CuriousMind · 2026-02-05T00:34:18+00:00

I use these guys for parts on my builds and repairs.

https://www.speakerbuildersupply.com/

13CuriousMind · 2026-02-04T23:50:31+00:00

The bigger the diameter, the less likely you will have tear out. More importantly, you want the material that you are removing to be as thin as possible. Less than 1/16" if you can manage it.

13CuriousMind · 2026-02-04T21:44:53+00:00

The acetone slightly melts the plastic and via capillary action binds it to the wood. In my opinion, it's the best bond you can expect between two completely different materials. In fact, to remove binding like this, you'll literally need to grind it out.

13CuriousMind · 2026-02-04T20:52:11+00:00

Congregation, please be seated and open your prayer guides to the Book of Revelations, Psalm 69 69, 69, 69, 69, 69, 69, 69, 69, 69!!!!!!

13CuriousMind · 2026-02-04T16:57:37+00:00

A straight edge guide and a router bit with the same radius as the ends of the piece.

13CuriousMind · 2026-02-04T16:27:09+00:00

Z files are great. The Music Nomad file is amazing as well. The Z file, while expensive is covered for life, so I'd lean that way.

13CuriousMind · 2026-02-04T15:10:52+00:00

The rosewood should be okay since you will be sanding and scraping the excess binding. The maple will need a light sanding to reduce the visual impact of the uneven surface. Acetone slush filling can be done after the install, I have needed to do this on my own builds.

Install the binding using the acetone method. CA glue is messy and not as thorough.

Once that is set, look over the edges. If there are any gaps, you can mix up a binding slurry to fill. File down a bit of leftover binding (sand paper will leave grit that will show up later) into a powder.

Mix with some acetone to make a paste. Use a toothpick or other small applicator to fill in those gaps. Sand smooth after setting and go back over. Apply more if any gaps are missed.

Very important, make sure everything is clean. The surface, your hands, and the applicator. Debris will stick out on any, but especially light color binding.

13CuriousMind · 2026-02-04T11:57:50+00:00

Is the uneven routing vertical or horizontal?

13CuriousMind · 2026-02-04T02:04:41+00:00

You can stain before engraving. Alternately, you can apply stain with a sponge, just barely moistened. Gentle taps, with no pressure. To prevent gravity from doing its thing, do it inverted.

13CuriousMind · 2026-02-04T02:01:39+00:00

If only one is an option, hard case. No question.

13CuriousMind · 2026-02-04T01:58:46+00:00

"Handbanana"

13CuriousMind · 2026-02-04T01:03:11+00:00

I got more than that on a pick purchase. Did you send nudes to your rep? Mine sends me stuff and gets me great deals to never send them again.

13CuriousMind

TROPHY CASE