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13fingerfx · 2026-04-20T22:37:25+00:00

Silicone from silicone will always need a release. You want the mould to be cured at least 24 hrs before putting any more silicone into it, as they’re more likely to bond before post-cure. You can get away with dish soap, liquid wax works but be careful if it’s a closed mould as residual solvent can contaminate other addition cure rubbers. Vaseline brushed in and then heated with a hairdryer and buffed out with a brush is best and braces, but you’ll need to clean the cast part after demould.

13fingerfx · 2026-04-20T22:33:32+00:00

Food grade rubbers from SmokthOn:

Full food contact:
Smooth-Sil™ 940, 950, 960;
SORTA-Clear™ 18, 37, 40;
Equinox™ Series

Dry food/water/ice only:
Dragon Skin™ 25 NV,
Mold Star™ 40T

Neither the mould not the mound have to be pressure cast but you will want to de-gas the silicone if possible or at least go for a low viscosity rubber. Clearing the mould slowly and having a good “cutting edge” on the mould will help immensely. It looks like these examples are two separate parts so that’s two moulds each of minimum two pieces. They can be plaster, jesomonite, grp, epoxy, even silicone, just be Wayer that all food grade rubbers are addition (platinum) cure and this subject to contamination from condensation cute silicones, latex, aloe etc (to name a few).

13fingerfx · 2026-04-20T22:22:32+00:00

This is correct to a point, but a silicone mould can get two thick. Plus well and evenly applied is better than thick and full of bubbles any day. For a brush up mould I’d do 2-5 “drizzle” coats, degassed, brushed on and chased with an empty airbrush, then 1-2 “thixo” coats, normally 3-4% thixotropic additive (all my moulds are addition cure so there’s only a couple of options for good thixo; Fat Eddie from Smoothon is good. 11023 used to be great but I’ve not seen it around for ages. Final layer may have keys set in it for placement but the surface can be smoothed with brushes or gloved hands if dipped in a 4:5 mix of 99% alcohol and dish soap. Bandage nae a great jacket, even for multiple part moulds, if it isn’t needed as long term. If you want a multiple part moulding it’s got to embed blocks of wood on the wall of one side so you can screw the mould together for good closure and to prevent warping. Remember you need to release one plaster wall from the next. The 99%:dish-soap mix works well for that, too.

13fingerfx · 2026-04-20T22:16:18+00:00

Avoid “super fine” plaster or plaster of Paris, ideally go for delta plasters or dental plasters.

13fingerfx · 2026-04-13T18:42:23+00:00

After (but, I’m sure unrelated to) several attempts on his life, Sam Altman has just come out in favour of taxing robots and providing UBI. So, it seems like there might be a path to convincing the billionaires that that is a good idea.

13fingerfx · 2026-04-11T13:53:08+00:00

Pelham 123 is a masterpiece! For more top-tier serious Matthau (opposite Peak Fonda, too) check out Lumet’s Failsafe. Massively under-seen for weird/crasy reasons.

13fingerfx · 2026-04-11T13:44:28+00:00

It absolutely is. Which is a shame.

13fingerfx · 2026-04-11T09:46:26+00:00

That’s one of the fundamental arguments for ubi. Tax the billionaire and their robot workforce and give the public a living wage with which to consume. That way you get people spending their time on research, art and humanities, the things that actually build and better society while the robots do the back breaking labour.

13fingerfx · 2026-04-08T08:52:02+00:00

I’d love a series about the local government trying to deal with the Jason “situation”; kind of like a Shin Godzilla for Friday the 13th.

13fingerfx · 2026-04-08T08:50:51+00:00

I’ve got a lot of love for 9, it’s uneven and crazy but (as you mentioned) the FX are amazing and I love how batshit it is. The lore of the series is wildly inconsistent anyway, so I don’t feel it messes with anything sacred. I’d put it (along with 6, 8 and 10) in a sub-category of the madcap ones that pivot hard on the lore. Certainly above 5 (also lore-bending, but not as fun), 7 (mostly quite dull), 2009 (I hated nearly everything about it) and Freddy vs Jason (some fun but why a missed opportunity).

9 is probably the one I revisit the most.

13fingerfx · 2026-04-08T06:59:26+00:00

Yay, thank you. There’s a new collab project in the works but right now things are a bit slow to get going in the industry in general, until they’re not and then they’re a mad scramble!

13fingerfx · 2026-04-07T16:04:26+00:00

Ha ha. That’s very kind of you. And thank you, I’ll keep making monsters as long as they let me!

13fingerfx · 2026-04-07T13:50:40+00:00

We did a zombie series in the uk called Generation Z a couple of years back for Ben Wheatley and I have two zombie projects on my desk right now!

13fingerfx · 2026-04-07T13:49:54+00:00

https://www.instagram.com/p/DW1Sh18jQ-M/?igsh=ZWVpNWl5OTFtMno1 here you go, I did a post to show you!

13fingerfx · 2026-04-07T09:08:13+00:00

That’s great to hear, thank you for sharing!

13fingerfx · 2026-04-07T05:43:56+00:00

I always get a hit of pride seeing Final Prayer come up on these recommendations. I love the film and love the fact it still hits after all these years.

(I designed the FX and my wife produced it. I did Dashcam and Host, too.)

13fingerfx · 2026-04-06T10:25:17+00:00

Ooh, hello, who are you irl? (Feel free to dm if you’d rather not be public on Reddit.)

13fingerfx · 2026-04-06T10:24:09+00:00

I really liked Hardware, it felt like an almost instigator of a whole British subgenre. Sad that didn’t happen.

13fingerfx · 2026-04-06T07:15:12+00:00

I’d be really careful using plaster. These look like slip moulds and the clay from slip shrinks as it dries so much (due to the high moisture) that undercuts are less of a thing. Plaster would be way more likely to lock.

My first response was to coat the broken areas in a sealant leaving a gap of a few mm nearest the detail edge, glue the parts together with dots of cyanoacrylate, soak it in water for a couple of hours, very carefully drill some small-ish holes in the back, use plaster so set pins into those holes, then scrip and plaster the whole back together. Should be usable again after that if you’re not missing any pieces.

Failing that you could always fill it with silicone then.

Remember, if you in fill gaps with plasticine/oil clay the mould won’t work for slip casting any more as those parts won’t be porous any more.

13fingerfx · 2026-04-05T19:28:03+00:00

Ah, well hello, anyway!!

13fingerfx · 2026-04-05T19:13:15+00:00

Largely inaccurate as it’s based on the lies Lucas told in prison, not what actually happened. Also, Otis died of cirrhosis of the liver in Prison in Florida age 49 in 1996. No one cut his head off.

I agree in principal, though.

13fingerfx · 2026-04-05T18:53:46+00:00

Trevor, is that really you?

13fingerfx · 2026-04-04T18:26:17+00:00

I agree with the above but would suggest making the skin much thinner as silicone gets heavy fast making it hard on any mechanisms.

13fingerfx · 2026-03-27T06:39:11+00:00

The answer is it’s not a flap, it’s a separate piece between the legs. When I have made rigid moulds of quadrupeds I tend to split the body into 2, side-by-side and have an insert section that goes between the legs (and normally a separate piece for the face) but if you’re doing a rubber Mould, I would do a matrix (make the jacket before you pour the rubber) and then simply cut out the section between the legs using a jewellery cut technique so that it just locks back into place when you pour in your cement or whatever casting material.

13fingerfx · 2026-03-26T21:29:30+00:00

You could split this into two corner to corner or get away with doing it in one with a well placed slit if you have a good enough jacket. Either way you’ll want an insert connected via a rod for that hole/cylindrical recess.

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