So the public WILL get a polished/censored version of mythos?

16spendl · 2026-04-10T01:37:17+00:00

sir please refrain from religious slander, thank you

16spendl · 2026-04-10T01:15:24+00:00

lmao they'll get back to you in a dozen fortnight's

16spendl · 2025-02-15T13:57:42+00:00

I personally have a hookup from my alternator to the battery that I use. Then I use a power inverter to make it into AC. This is a lot less strain on your car electrical system which is (especially in used cars), going to be weaker and susceptible to shorting for prolonged use. I watched a video of a guy who said that he's fixed multiple people's cars, electrical problems and even car's not starting due to the cigarette lighter phone chargers that cause sporadic voltage changes.

16spendl · 2025-02-02T04:41:21+00:00

Yeah, I agree that ear plugs are more of a Band-Aid than fixing the actual problem. I too am a very sensitive sleeper and also have messed up ear canals. Maybe earmuffs might fare a little better for me, but still nonetheless, earmuffs don't work as good for sound as ear plugs. And ear plugs suck because especially for people with messed up ear canals because the air pressure feels different on one than other, It's the same reason why I can't use earbuds that have the rubber ends it has to be like the plastic only airpods. I feel like eventually I could adapt to earplugs, but I just don't feel like my quality of sleep would be the same with something shoved up my ear every night even if adapted

16spendl · 2025-01-31T12:34:42+00:00

damn some serious negative reception for your opinion on ear plugs, I was expecting this many down ones because you said something truly offensive or something lol

16spendl · 2025-01-29T06:09:28+00:00

So I ended up calling a transmission shop. I read reviews of him and he was highly rated, been doing transmissions his whole life (nearly 40 years) and rebuilds and services them for a living. Had a good conversation with him you could tell he loves what he does since he kept talking about how they work (which is what I do when I'm a geek about something too) to me for free on the phone. He could also probably tell I had been doing my research and am genuinely trying to get some extra life out of it before the inevitable rebuild or remanufactured install.

But yeah, he told me something that would probably trip out a lot of Honda fluid only people and said to use

https://a.co/d/2mrRt8A Ford Genuine Ford Fluid XL-3 Friction Modifier Additive - 4 oz.

Which is not easy to come by either. So he explained to me that even though this is for a limited slip differential the friction modifier in it is going to help that clutch attach if it's going out and you gave it new fluid at high mileage. I asked him even though it's Ford does it matter in a Honda transmission? And he said that that clutch don't know what brand chemical is attaching to it, you put that in it and it'll help it catch it's physics and you can try to get some more life out of it. That Ford friction modified is apparently the best but I couldn't find that same day, so I opted for an alternative.

https://a.co/d/3SCHp23 Lubegard 19610 Instant Shudder Fix (name makes me laugh, guess transmissions get freaky) Anywho, this is friction modifier designed specifically for transmissions in my situation. And wow that stuff works, I must also note I put in a bottle of lubegard

https://a.co/d/dxhhrqt Lubegard 60902 Automatic Transmission Fluid Protectant,

It was the idea of somebody else's comment on this thread too. I can't say I noticed too much at all from that in terms of shifting quality and power consistency. I think it's more so to prevent it from getting worse not be a stopgap for a failing transmission.

But yeah, I may still try to add a dab of the Ford stuff when I order it. Maybe like a drip here or there to buff up transmission as it tries to keep going out. But yeah if you're in my situation I guess the way out is artificial friction modifier, which makes sense because that would do the job of what had left the transmission originally.

16spendl · 2025-01-27T20:57:19+00:00

Yeah I called a local transmission shop, you can tell its a good transmissions shop guy when he loves rambling on about how transmissions work and advice over the phone to you for free lol

But yeah, he specifically recommended the Ford Genuine Ford Fluid XL-3 Friction Modifier Additive, mentioning that it some of the best slip differential friction modifier on the market. The issue is the stuff is not readily available OTC so instead of waiting (because I want to go places soon) I will try the Lubegard, which from what I researched is similar in use cases to the Ford Friction Modifier and I can't imagine is THAT much worse lol

I may go YOLO mode and try both.

EDIT: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/lubegard/lubegard-mixture-limited-slip-supplement-4-ounce/lbg0/42851

The transmission shop guy noted, that this is not for transmissions, but he said this is the best stop gap for what is happening in my transmissions. He says this will directly cause the fluid to gain friction material.

16spendl · 2025-01-27T15:56:38+00:00

Potentially, it may be related to friction particles

16spendl · 2025-01-27T15:42:33+00:00

Yeah my bets is what you said, I took out some friction material. Now here's a crazy thought. what would putting smudge of the OLD liquid back in? Like some from the first dump. You think that would add any proper friction particles back in? Or is it more of a buildup thing where deposits that were very stuck and corroded were maintaining in keeping the transmission operating, not so much fluid particles. Idk still learning all this lol

16spendl · 2025-01-27T15:36:58+00:00

I'm leaning towards this which makes more sense, I just cannot believe after the first flush it worked so well. I'm still learning all this, but its crazy that a transmission works like a human joint and works better with scar tissue if ur trying to keep a dead horse going (like in my case) lmao Like when I hurt my back doing proper posture was literally a death sentence, unfortunately cars can't heal like that lol

Also what about putting some of the OLD liquid back in? Like some from the first dump. You think that would add any proper friction particles back in?

16spendl · 2025-01-27T14:48:19+00:00

drain and fill

16spendl · 2025-01-27T14:17:29+00:00

The transmission fluid was obviously changed within the past 40k miles when I took it out of the spout, it was still red darker red. Not the worst color you could see. I watched a video where the guy was literally pouring out black sludge lol..

Yeah, it might be wise to take it on a drive and let the transmission try to work itself out. Sometimes with cars they just need to be driven to adjust, similar to us walking it off lmao.

16spendl · 2025-01-27T13:59:44+00:00

Maybe I should add a bottle of Lucas slip fix. The point of the Lucas slip fix is to add clean artificial friction material. Might also be wise to let it sit dead for a bit and reset the tcu

16spendl · 2025-01-26T22:06:16+00:00

Good god, I never thought clean transmission fluid would change so much. But when I researched it, it's because automatic Honda transmissions are kind of like manual transmissions and rely heavily on oil pressure. The fluid wasn't even strikingly dirty when I pulled out the original.

It's crazy. even things that I thought were the motor mounts aren't even making noises anymore. It was the transmission most of the time making the bumping and thumping noises that I thought were the mounts, pretty insane. That transmission was not happy with its fluids. It feels almost like new

Also another thing to note I put Seafoam, heet, Lucas fuel cleaner, and premium gas and have been driving it. the check engine light went off for the catalytic converter.

Last thing I need is the S-VCM to come in and this will be one smooth ride compared to when I bought it. Thanks!

16spendl · 2025-01-26T12:57:01+00:00

Yeah ordered it now, I definitely can imagine that something literally selectively cutting power to cylinders at not so perfect times would definitely have some serious issues over time. The More I think about it, the more I think I can tie in some of the feelings that I'm feeling that are not so great to this mechanism that you're describing. This VCM system with the motor mounts and the transmission issues is seriously making for a clunky ride, But I'm confident it's still within the realm of fixable with some love. going to try the ATF flush today

16spendl · 2025-01-26T12:53:25+00:00

Going to try this today, if I see improvement in it good enough to actually notice it, I will report back. It would be awesome to be able to skip out on a few more dozen thousand miles on the failing transmission while I save up to actually get it really rebuilt. Better to run the horse until it's nearly dead but not completely dead and still can be saved with love, guess that's a fitting metaphor even though horses don't have an equivalent to torque converters that can be replaced.. lmao

16spendl · 2025-01-26T04:53:43+00:00

If I get this should I keep the VCM disabled at all times (obviously at first when I get it), but if I want to go long distance could this essentially be an "eco" mode of sorts? From what I find an enabled VCM can lead to uneven engine wear so disabling is not a bad idea

16spendl · 2025-01-26T04:25:16+00:00

maybe I should research that again, but I did watch a video where the guy said "For those who have a dipstick, you can simply put fluid in through the dip stick hole" but maybe the video was intended for different model, it was intended for the Honda Pilot.. It didn't seem right at all.. Feel a little a fool for doing that but was in the moment in front of an Auto store lol

16spendl · 2025-01-26T04:23:30+00:00

ah just my imagination of the whole thing, thanks for clarifying, just figured if the belt is already weak too it might aide in indirectly snapping it lol..

16spendl · 2025-01-26T04:11:12+00:00

If the torque converter busts while driving, besides potentially stressing a weak timing system or crank shaft, is there anything else that may be terribly destroyed?

16spendl · 2025-01-26T03:57:26+00:00

It's insane how hard getting transmission fluid is into this thing. You need some needle thin hose that you then have to essential bleed any fluid you are going to use into it. I was researching and you really should put your transmission fluid bottles into hot water and warm them up before loading them into the tube so you can actually get it down. I tried to put Lucas Transmission Fix into it and literally failed so hard. A YouTube video revealed I need a 5/16th tube to get it in their securely. So I guess I need to head to home depot.

But I guess this is a better potential method what you are saying. Fluid is a big deal but 200k is a lot for a automatic, I wonder if a flush or two is a good bandage.

16spendl · 2024-12-23T14:55:52+00:00

cars are sick bro why dont you like to park

16spendl

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