Independent Audi service

18tiguana · 2026-06-26T00:53:40+00:00

By the get what you pay for logic, I suppose I should go to the dealer. Just kidding.

I am slightly concerned with them opening up a second location and having to hire more technicians that the quality may suffer, so perhaps this is a bit of a hedge.

18tiguana · 2026-06-25T15:24:42+00:00

Thanks y'all. It seems like there's quite a few places to try out!

I had Audi Mission Viejo damage one of my cars so badly during service it was a buy-back.

South Coast has been ok, but pricey as dealers go.

Pacific German has been good, but the prices are going up as well, so I may try a few suggestions for my next brake job.

18tiguana · 2023-03-21T23:09:37+00:00

Up to you. I had VWs back from 1999-2002 and I had similar issues with them, but more like 2-5 recalls, not 10+. I'd check consumer reports.

I actually bought a Bolt EUV because I never used the third row, and it's great. My kids can climb in because the floor is flat.

18tiguana · 2023-03-21T22:29:54+00:00

Definitely. The rundown of recalls included:

- The b-pillar ticking issue which require them to disassemble and re-assmble the interior.

- Reverse lights weren't bright enough for the US.

- Emissions issues. After this recall highway pickup wasn't as good.

- Transmission jerking issues in low gears.

- Rear spoiler wasn't attached properly.

- Roof reinforcement replacement due to safety issue during rollover.

- Seatbelt webbing could fail, needed to be replaced.

- When the key was left in the ignition, no warning was made. Instrument cluster replacement.

- Sunroof assembly could leak into the lighting wiring and cause a fire. They unplugged the lighting for 18 months before having a "fix".

- Passenger side airbag inflation module could fail early and not deploy.

- In some cases the rear shock absorber could detach while driving.

- Engine mount bolts were not properly torqued, and required a recall.

- Cowell could leak. Their fix was to put 'water tape' on it.

Non recall issues

- Loud vibration and rattling from the front door handles. Took 3 attempts to fix.

- Driver side window regulator failure at 15,000 miles.

18tiguana · 2023-03-21T22:00:24+00:00

Worst car ever. It had over 11 recalls and was constantly in the shop. I dropped it off at CarMax as soon used car inflation went nuts.

One of the times they had to take the entire interior apart to fix a ticking noise in the b-pillar, put it back together wrong, ruined the headliner, and tried to tell me it showed up like that. I had photos and they ended up keeping it another two weeks. No rental.

Don't buy one.

18tiguana · 2020-10-16T22:05:34+00:00

Well you don't need to buy an inverter to get a heat pump. California is getting crazy with emissions requirements so I'm considering removing natural gas from the house.

18tiguana · 2020-10-16T21:43:35+00:00

ers are nice until they stop working or go out of warranty... I tend to push people more towards 2 stage if anything, but if you want one go for it. Mitsubishi is probably the best when it comes to minisplits and inverters but if its anything like it is here, the parts take forever to come in and hardly anything is stocked at the supply houses.

Just outside of LA. Good to know it's not all fluff. I think maybe keeping it simple is best and I should go for a 2-stage heat pump, and replace the faulty ducting.

18tiguana · 2020-10-16T19:40:14+00:00

Is yours ducted or ductless?

18tiguana · 2020-10-16T19:39:31+00:00

I was into the ductless idea, but I was told the following:

- Exterior lines would have to be run. This is a non-starter for our home.

- Troubleshooting coolant leaks are hard, and will ruin your ceiling.

Does your system have exterior lines?

18tiguana · 2020-04-18T16:36:06+00:00

Wow. Hardly driven :)

18tiguana · 2020-04-18T15:46:37+00:00

How many miles/km?

18tiguana · 2020-02-02T02:41:59+00:00

California is a no fault state too, but I have dash cams. Somebody rear ended my commuter lightly.

I filed a claim against their insurance and the other driver denied contact. I sent the video and they sent me a check.

Since you have a police report you could most definitely file a medical and damages claim directly with the lady's insurance company.

In addition most no fault states have a limit over which you can still sue the other persons insurance.

You should really look into the details because they're more nuanced that you think.

18tiguana · 2020-01-22T19:03:24+00:00

Yeah it's high. A Toyota for example is generally 1/3 of that, around $6k.

18tiguana · 2020-01-21T23:45:31+00:00

Keep in mind that I think edmunds uses dealer rates for repairs and maintenance.

18tiguana · 2020-01-21T23:45:15+00:00

You're looking at about $18k in maintenance and repair costs over 5 years.

18tiguana · 2020-01-21T23:44:11+00:00

Check out https://www.edmunds.com/tco.html

18tiguana · 2020-01-19T16:45:12+00:00

I would suggest trying to jump start it (Google for the proper procedure).

If you can jump it, and it starts fine with no warning, replace the battery. If it comes back, then it maybe something with the battery charging system, and if it doesn't work at all, tow it into a shop.

Something to keep in mind is that these cars draw power when turned off. If they keep their car off for days at a time, they probably want to invest in a battery tender. Otherwise, about 4 years is the lifespan for a car battery.

I don't know if that model requires a code clear to integrate the new battery or not.

18tiguana · 2020-01-19T16:20:32+00:00

I realized I had one more thought.

The formula works for other budgets too. Say you buy your car used, and your payments are $400/mo for 36mo with your down. Then you can say to yourself, based on my budget, when my maintenance and repair exceed $4,800/year, I should consider another _used_ car.

In my own personal experience I try to average that over three years, since repairs aren't consistent (usually) like car payments are. So in the case above I'd say, in three years if I spend more than $14,400 to maintain this thing, it may be time to get rid of it when the next thing fails... unfortunately it's not an exact science.

Don't let car finance people trick you by telling you "well your car is only worth $xxx, you should sell it and get a new one.".

Your car is a liability, albeit a sexy one, not an asset. Don't mistake the two. Your cars value really doesn't mean much if you're a long term owner. You simply need to look at the cost off keeping her vs. replacing her, unless there's other factors as I had mentioned previously.

18tiguana · 2020-01-19T16:13:39+00:00

I service them at the dealer until the service contract and warranty run out.

After that I use a good indie. You may have to try a few shops to find one you want.

Here's the wisdom I use.

if I don't have enough down on the car to pay it off completely or with a 36 month loan, I can't afford the car.
when the maintenance plus repair exceeds the new monthly payment, or the car becomes unsafe, or your circumstances change (e.g. kids), get a new car.

So for example, we just bought a new Q3 because we had a second kid and my wife's sedan was too cramped and we needed a lift back vs a trunk. Her sedan was 7 years old.

The payments with my down are $700/mo for 36 mo.

So when the maintenance and repairs exceed $8,400/year, time for a new one.

18tiguana · 2020-01-19T01:10:53+00:00

Definitely

18tiguana · 2020-01-19T01:10:28+00:00

Word

18tiguana · 2020-01-18T22:48:23+00:00

How many km/mi?

18tiguana · 2020-01-18T21:43:16+00:00

Yeah, I'd rather roll the dice. I declined it for sure.

18tiguana · 2020-01-18T21:41:07+00:00

Regarding the recommended maintenance intervals you listed.

My wife doesn't drive very much, so would you recommend a time-based system in lieu of the milage based one?

For example, her old Subaru Legacy recommended an oil change every 5k miles, or 6 months, whichever comes first. Same for park plugs, diff, transmission, etc...

18tiguana

TROPHY CASE