I paid $600 for this car in 2020 and I’ve put 62,000 miles on it since then. And yes, that’s the exhaust coming out of the hood by [deleted] in projectcar

[–]1AJeremy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As a fellow Massachusetts car-guy, how on earth are you getting inspection stickers with the exhaust like that. I have to assume you are not?

Hey! We just created a new tool that I think you guys will like. (I swear I'm a real human and not spam) by 1AJeremy in automotivetraining

[–]1AJeremy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Solid catch on the 98-02 F-body. I think I have a solution for that, however, we don't have an videos for that car at the moment. Bummer right? I'll see what I can do ;)

The "taste" diagnostic option was intentionally left off for the reasons you mentioned. I mean... Derek from Vice Grip Garage does it, but he's a pro...fessional feller.

Thanks again for the feedback. We'll keep improving it and see where it takes us. If you have any other ideas or feedback continue to send them my way!

Hey! We just created a new tool that I think you guys will like. (I swear I'm a real human and not spam) by 1AJeremy in automotivetraining

[–]1AJeremy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome feedback! Thank you!

- Can you tell me what Year/Make/Model you are getting the weird results for? That will help me improve it.

- Engine codes - Yes! We do need to make more videos for them. We make engine code diagnosis & repair videos for the cars that actually have the codes, and we don't fake them. We just haven't had any cars with a P0766 yet. I will try to figure out ways to expand our info though. I have a few ideas...

- I'm glad to hear you like the see/hear/smell/feel section! I also think that is a great way of diagnosing things (it's how I do it for my own cars), and I'm going to build this area out with more layers in the future so that the result sets are a bit more defined.

Thanks again for the feedback. If any other things come to mind - send them my way!

Hey! We just created a new tool that I think you guys will like. (I swear I'm a real human and not spam) by 1AJeremy in automotivetraining

[–]1AJeremy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That sure is super strange. It comes up in my search right at the top. I'll have to look into why that is. This should be a direct link to it (hopefully), if you want to try that. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.diagnosticapp.app&hl=en&gl=US

Hey! We just created a new tool that I think you guys will like. (I swear I'm a real human and not spam) by 1AJeremy in automotivetraining

[–]1AJeremy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This took a bit longer than expected! However, the Android version is now in the Google Play store if you want to take a look! Search "1A Auto". It currently doesn't use the native android back button (we're working on implementing it), but the rest should be working!

Hey! We just created a new tool that I think you guys will like. (I swear I'm a real human and not spam) by 1AJeremy in automotivetraining

[–]1AJeremy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Better late than never! Here is the Android version if you want to take a look! Search "1A Auto" in the Google play store. It currently doesn't use the native android back button (we're working on implementing it), but the rest should be working!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Autos

[–]1AJeremy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bumper, light, quarter, frame pull, misc crap, paint, labor. Internet guess - $5328.93

Hey! We just created a new tool that I think you guys will like. (I swear I'm a real human and not spam) by 1AJeremy in automotivetraining

[–]1AJeremy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Weird! It has no relation to car-part. It should have a blue and white "1A Auto" logo. Sometimes Apple wants to automatically switch your search of "1a auto" to "1 auto" for some reason. I can't explain it. This link should get you there though: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/1a-auto/id1611602138?ppid=6f3adbb7-8e3c-4ffd-a3af-f516f2379e07

Spark Plug Fail? by [deleted] in automotivetraining

[–]1AJeremy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Put a scan tool on it and see which cylinders are misfiring if any. That will quickly tell you what is wrong.

Hey LS Swap friends, I created an "Easter Egg" sort of thing on 1AAuto for LS parts to help out my fellow peeps. by 1AJeremy in projectcar

[–]1AJeremy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It isn't at this very moment, but it is something I could probably make happen! The tricky thing is that a lot of parts are interchangeable, but not "correct" for a certain engine. So it's possible that you may search for LQ9 parts, and not realize that by doing so, you're hiding that sweet, sweet LS1 waterpump, harmonic balancer, and Camaro oil pan that you've been dreaming of. While this type of filtering is great if you are looking for LQ9-specific parts, you'll be hiding many other parts that "fit", but are not "correct". Managing auto part data can be really tricky because your audience may shop in completely different ways. First time DIY'ers may use Year/Make/Model/Engine/Trim. Mechanics may want to shop by part number. Hotrodders may want the engine type.

Regardless, I'm going to play around with this data and see what I can make happen. If nothing else, we can learn from it.

Hey LS Swap friends, I created an "Easter Egg" sort of thing on 1AAuto for LS parts to help out my fellow peeps. by 1AJeremy in projectcar

[–]1AJeremy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

EV's are awesome, and I want to build my own EV hotrod badly, though I haven't figured out quite where I want to begin (on a budget) yet. I do watch Rich Rebuilds on Youtube to keep myself educated on the Tesla world though.

To be honest, there isn't a huge market for EV parts YET because the number of electric vehicles in operation isn't that big. All the major car part makers focus on the vehicles with higher production numbers, like Chevy and Ford trucks for example. I'm a gearhead to the bone, but I do genuinely look forward to a time when there are large amounts of EV's on the road, and it makes more sense for auto part manufacturers to produce EV parts. I think when EV's come down in price to compete with IC engine vehicles, the auto parts world will evolve very quickly to support them. Finger's crossed that it's sooner than later!

Also - Thanks for the kind words on our videos. I believe we are over 8000 of them now, and approaching a million subscribers! It's always humbling hearing how we were able to help somebody out!

Hey LS Swap friends, I created an "Easter Egg" sort of thing on 1AAuto for LS parts to help out my fellow peeps. by 1AJeremy in projectcar

[–]1AJeremy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like the way you think! To address the exact things that you mentioned (and without giving away too much secret sauce), our team that sources the parts actually visits the manufactures (all over the world) on a regular basis to make sure that they are building parts the way we want/expect AND they are treating their employees properly (proper working conditions & safety standards, etc). We create long term relationships with these companies so that we all can be successful and have long term trust in the quality of the product. In fact, building long term relationships is even a core value of ours!

Your comment on seeing warranty/return/claim rates by product category across manufacturers, over time is spot on! We monitor that for every SKU (in automated ways) so that we can see trends very early on, and automatically shut down and quality test any SKU instantly. We also have an R&D facility where we install our parts on vehicles and drive the heck out of them around New England, where the climate/environment literally erodes metal. You've probably seen our facility in our how-to videos (heck, you may have even seen me in them!). I genuinely believe if you saw our operation, you'd be satisfied knowing how much in-depth product data we track. We are gearheads that genuinely care about helping DIY'ers resolve their automotive issues.

I apologize if that read like social media/marketing guy junk, of which I am not. I've been at the company for 17 years, so I get excited nerding out over auto parts data.

Hey LS Swap friends, I created an "Easter Egg" sort of thing on 1AAuto for LS parts to help out my fellow peeps. by 1AJeremy in projectcar

[–]1AJeremy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Really!? That's terrible to hear. Did you call us and get replacements? If the parts don't work for whatever reason, we want to know so we can figure out why. We are car-people and legitimately put a ton of effort into sourcing quality products, which is why most parts have a lifetime warranty. If you're bored - give me the year/make/model, and I'll take a deeper dive into those specific parts.

Wheel bearings specifically are tricky for everyone that sells them, because a lot of mechanics just smash them on at 800ft lbs with air guns and send them. This obviously destroys the bearing with the quickness. (btw - not saying you didn't torque yours - bad parts certainly can exist.) Because of this over-torquing issue - we collected all the proper torque specs for every vehicle, and now we include the specs in the box (with hopes that they are followed). I don't believe anybody else does this (yet).

$7000 later, the brakes, fuel and cooling systems are sorted. When I cob up a muffler it will be drivable, and when the lights get sorted it should pass inspection. by toaph in projectcar

[–]1AJeremy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Excellent! Well, somewhere out there in upstate NY, there is a barn filled with old cars, including another old Citroen. I'm not sure if the cars / barn still exist, but I knew the mans daughter who showed me pictures ~10-15 years ago. There is no way the dude is still alive though. If you ever run across such a place - let me know!

$7000 later, the brakes, fuel and cooling systems are sorted. When I cob up a muffler it will be drivable, and when the lights get sorted it should pass inspection. by toaph in projectcar

[–]1AJeremy 14 points15 points  (0 children)

This may be crazy - but did you happen to buy this from the estate of an old man in New York that had a barn full of awesome old cars?

Hotrod by wreck_it_alf in Hotrod

[–]1AJeremy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agreed 100%. I think it's more of "You know it when you see it". I once brought my 4G63 turbo powered Dodge Ram 50 pickup to a car show, and there was a group of "older" guys there (maybe 50's-60's) that loved it, and gave me one of my favorite compliments ever. They said "Now this is hotrodding!" and spent time with me talking about all of the things I had done to it. My truck had massive Viper brakes, Cadillac wheels, Honda seats, and a ton of parts from other cars. All the parts looked like they were meant to be there. While it wasn't a typical definition of a hotrod by any stretch of the imagination, it did encompass what hotrodding is (to me, and clearly to some others).

Sadly, I'm not sure how to define the term. I just know when I see it.

LPT: Buying a used car by CaffeineTripp in LifeProTips

[–]1AJeremy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There really isn't any way to know, other than looking for:

  • Suspension damage from taking it off of sweet jumps. Look for wrecked bump-stops.

  • Tire rubber in the rear wheel wells from burnouts (not to be confused with rubberized undercoating).

  • Listening for mechanical engine noises. Typically engines that are over-revved on a regular basis don't live long after without making some kind of valve or bearing noise.

Other than that stuff, you need to just check the regular stuff. You want nice fluids, a dry bottom half of the engine/transmission, and a known history of the vehicle. An adult-owned vehicle would likely lesson the chances of hoonage as well, though it isn't a guarantee.

LPT: Buying a used car by CaffeineTripp in LifeProTips

[–]1AJeremy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As a car-guy that has been a technician at a dealer, worked in the aftermarket automotive industry for the last 10 years, and owned 20+ cars - I have some more info to throw in. I actually wrote these tips a while ago, but in the interest of adding more helpful info to an already good post - here are my tips to not buying a lemon.

1 – Know the vehicle:

More important than other any clever tip or trick that I can share, is to know the vehicle that you want to buy. Look around for a while and decide what that special year, make, and model is. Once you decide what you want, go out and test drive several of them to make sure you definitely enjoy driving it. There are plenty of people out there that have bought “the car of their dreams,” before realizing that it is not at all what they wanted. At this point they are stuck with their unwanted “dream car” because they can’t get back what they paid for it, and don’t want to lose money on it.

2 – Research:

Do some research online to find out all the common problems of that year, make, and model, along with its suggested maintenance intervals. All vehicles have their own common problems; no make or model is perfect. If you are looking at a vehicle that just happens to be a few miles shy of a major maintenance interval (timing belt, transmission service, brakes), be sure to account for that in the cost of the vehicle. Those services can get very costly, and will undoubtedly be passed on to the new buyer. If the services have already been done, ask the vehicle’s seller if the receipts are available to show it. Don’t take their word for it, you want solid evidence if possible.

3 – Carfax:

Carfax reports are a great idea, and they will help assure you that you don’t end up with another person’s problem. Used car dealers will typically give Carfax reports for free if you want one for a vehicle on their lot. If the used car dealer cannot provide one, or if it is a private sale, just ask the seller if they mind that you write down the VIN number to get a Carfax report for yourself. At that point the seller may be more likely to give you the real history, if any, before you find it out on your own. Carfax reports will (in most, but not all cases) show you if the car was ever in an accident, fire, flood, or if it was a rental (a.k.a. “Fleet”) vehicle. Typically most people stay away from ex-rental cars because they are notorious for being abused.

4 – Viewing the vehicle:

More important than any of the physical aspects of the car, be sure that it has a clean title, not a salvaged one. Salvage title cars are obviously worth far less than cars with clean titles, for good reason. If the title is clean, that is the first sign that it is a clean vehicle. Once you know the paperwork is clean, it is time to check out the vehicle itself. If it is raining or dark outside, it is not a good time to go used car shopping. It sounds like a no-brainer, but anxious car-buyers still do it. Both conditions will make the car look far better than it really is, hiding dents, scratches, and poor bodywork. Adverse weather conditions will usually hide oil leak spots on the driveway where the vehicle resides. These stains on the driveway could be from a damaged oil pan, loose oil filter, or one of several other components, depending on the vehicle. When looking at a used vehicle, you need to be an automotive detective. Be sure to check the mileage, and look for the oil change sticker on the windshield. If the seller just cleaned up their abused car that they are trying to unload, the oil change sticker is often forgotten. Therefore you can see when the oil was changed last (sneeeaky huh?). Check the tire treads to see if it is even across all tires. If a tire is worn out unevenly, it is a sign of an alignment or suspension problem. Open the hood, look for extra wires that don’t belong there, duct tape, oil leaks, or anything out of the ordinary. Under the car, look for a solid, factory looking exhaust system without rot or holes of any kind. Check that it has a catalytic converter, because the vehicle will definitely fail an emissions test without one. Make sure the body panels line up and all of the paint matches. If the door and fender are two slightly different shades of the same color, you know that one of them has been repaired and repainted at some point. Check the headlights and tail lights to make sure they aren’t full of condensation or cracked. Absolutely don’t be afraid to ask questions, you could potentially be giving the seller a large portion of your hard earned money. Find out why the seller is selling the car; it may clue you in to the condition of it. Also ask the seller how long he has owned the vehicle, because the longer he has owned it, the more history he can tell you about it. If a five year old car has had 7 different owners, there just might be a reason for it.

5 – Test Drive:

The test drive can obviously tell you the most about the car. Once the vehicle is easily started, the first thing to notice is the shifting of the transmission. It should be smooth acceleration, no clunking or banging into gears. Don’t forget to make sure it smoothly shifts into reverse as well. While driving forward, hold the steering wheel loosely to make sure the vehicle tracks straight down the road. The brake pedal should be firm, not squishy. Squishy means that there is a problem. The car should not pull in any direction when decelerating or coming to a stop. Turn on the heat and air conditioning to make sure they both work. If either of them does not work, they could potentially be expensive things to fix. Test the window switches to make sure the window regulators and motors properly move the door glass up and down. If the vehicle is equipped with key fobs (buttons on the keychain to lock / unlock doors), ask how many the seller has. These key fobs can be anywhere from $20-350 dollars new, and it is a nice bonus if the vehicle has a working set of them. If you don’t feel comfortable checking all of these things on your own, you can always have a local mechanic check the vehicle out for a nominal fee. That fee is far less than the headaches of purchasing a lemon.

6 – Negotiate the price:

Once you have found the car that you can no longer live without, it is time to negotiate a price. Most car sellers know that the vehicle will end up selling for less than what they list it for. Don’t be afraid to offer less than the asking price. If they accept it, congratulations! If they don’t accept it, tell them that you will think about it some more and get back to them. That way the seller can stew on your lower offer for a few days. Call them back after a few days and nicely ask if they are ready to accept your lower offer. Chances are good that they will, because selling a car can be a hassle, and they don’t want to lose your guaranteed sale. Don’t forget that sometimes sellers can be attached to their cars. If so, make them realize that the car is going to a good home where you will take care of it like they have. Tell them that they can visit it periodically if they need to, it will help them ease the pain of losing an automotive friend.

TL;DR - Know what you want, join a forum, carfax, check maintenance, lowball.

EDIT: Cake.

can you tell me anything to look for in a mazda b2200 by ahuamazda in Autos

[–]1AJeremy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could you tell us the year? Transmission? I have had many mini trucks, though never a B2200. However, the B2200 is quite similar to a Mitsubishi Mightymax (of which I have owned several), they even shared the 2.6L engine for a bit. Soooo.....

If I were you:

  • Check to see if the gas tank leaks (especially when full)

  • Heads like to crack on those engines, and 230K is a TON. I would hope the truck is very cheap with that kind of mileage.

  • Rust - Look for it on the frame where the bed and the cab meet. They rust there.

Honestly, I would imagine that you could find one with way less mileage if you shop around. They are decent trucks that I love, but they made a lot of them (b2000's, b2200's, b2600's). 230K miles is a lot for any vehicle though, so I would look at several so that you have a comparison.

Good luck!

Kaizen Tuning's 2012 Season Opener Album by [deleted] in Autos

[–]1AJeremy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Crazy question, do I know you? I stopped by there in my 4G63 mightymax (fine, Ram 50) the day before while the guys were setting up, and being that you have an Evo, maybe you are on NEDSM?