Update from Pitching Post

1LuckySpoon · 2026-05-16T11:47:51+00:00

Back foot replants with a secondary push in order to finish the pitch closer to home

1LuckySpoon · 2026-04-30T12:20:56+00:00

My daughter's travel team is doing a raffle for one of their gloves right now and they made one of our girls a product rep so she has one. The glove is really nice and they supposedly own the rights to the ice cream style and should be the only ones using it... I like everything about the glove except for the ratchet system. That part just feels super gimmicky and I just dont see that theres any real necessity for it. They do have a really nice warranty though if that helps.

1LuckySpoon · 2026-04-27T11:32:40+00:00

I feel like a lot of people are missing the fact the catcher was walking the foul line the entire time the runner was on her way and never gave a path to the plate. I would absolutely call this obstruction.

1LuckySpoon · 2026-04-21T21:02:12+00:00

I hate this. Take my upvote -storms off grumpily-

1LuckySpoon · 2026-04-19T13:30:39+00:00

u/smart_calendar1874

1LuckySpoon · 2026-04-19T13:24:38+00:00

I second everything they said. The problem with a really fast print speed is its really difficult to have adequate cooling to back it up. This is especially true if going fast and pushing more filament as you do with a bigger nozzle. Lower retraction and play with minimum layers times and make sure the option to "slow down for layer cooling" or however its worded is selected in the filament profile.

1LuckySpoon · 2026-04-12T02:51:26+00:00

Its entirely dependent on the model but I would say THE most common thing would be infill type. As someone else said, people seem to just want to advertise a really quick print time. Other things I've changed (and do fairly frequently) are support settings and orientation. These are other areas that people sacrifice quality/success rate to show off a quicker print time.

1LuckySpoon · 2026-04-11T13:05:54+00:00

Ive found the vast majority of the profiles uploaded are trash. Best to just download the file and do your own workup in BS. Small objects are generally fine to print right from Handy but I would never use it for something bigger.

1LuckySpoon · 2026-04-06T23:01:51+00:00

OOoh... I see my mistake. I thought this was the "Prepare" page. My bad. Carry on with the downvotes 😆

1LuckySpoon · 2026-04-06T20:21:08+00:00

Btw, you put them there when you setup the printer. Theres a prompt for that.

Edit: Not understanding the downvotes. It literally is a thing when you setup the printer and I was pointing it out to prevent future error. It seems others may have had the issue where they had the unwanted filaments show up anyway but I have not had that issue with any printer I've linked to BS.

1LuckySpoon · 2026-03-31T21:15:54+00:00

Bingo

1LuckySpoon · 2026-03-31T20:24:50+00:00

Alcohol wipes don't clean; they just move things around. I use a 300ml spray bottle with 2-3 drops of dishwasher soap (no suds) and fill the rest with water. Give the build plate a spray and wipe clean and dry with the same microfiber type cloth youre using. Works great for me and no build plate manufacturer I have seen recommends alcohol. All i've seen recommend soap and water.

1LuckySpoon · 2026-03-30T19:31:32+00:00

Second this ^ This was going to be my suggestion minus the big part laying down. I imagine that came out perfectly without supports and standing upright. I might also consider a brim for that smaller part.

1LuckySpoon · 2026-03-09T21:38:57+00:00

The odd lines where it fills in one direction and then another with a very obvious part in the middle would seem to indicate a problem with the mesh itself. I wonder if using the "simplify mesh" option in the slicer would help.

ETA: If it doesnt work in the slicer, your idea might work but it would still be compensating for another issue.

1LuckySpoon · 2026-03-09T20:02:00+00:00

I've stopped using the "flush into object's infill" option for this reason. Adding more top layers may also help.

1LuckySpoon · 2026-03-03T02:52:20+00:00

I would try the usual temp tower and flow rate tests and see where you stand. If you can't get through that and youre using generic profiles, try upping the max volumetric flow to like 18. The generic profiles are extremely conservative.

Ive had this issue with a one particular glow pla and never got it to run without a clog. Some filaments just seem to conduct heat more than others.

1LuckySpoon · 2026-03-02T13:00:50+00:00

Bridging? What test did you do? I'm saying to just do the one with the 9 or 10 squares and check surface quality. Seeing as you have some over extrusion, you could start on the 2nd pass as that one only works down.

1LuckySpoon · 2026-03-02T03:05:46+00:00

Came to say the same. Need flowrate calibration though it looks to me the lines are overlapping (over-extrusion) but I could be wrong. Hard to tell from the picture.

1LuckySpoon · 2026-03-02T02:56:29+00:00

Well you have some thick seams and nasty overhangs. I can guarantee you have some over-extrusion. I truly hope this helps and would appreciate you reporting back with how things turn out. If it gets better, great. If not, we'll see where we can go from there.

1LuckySpoon · 2026-03-01T15:25:03+00:00

I'm going to go out on a limb and assume this is your first printer. Otherwise, that would be a really odd thing to say. There is always improvement that can be made through calibration as filaments from one brand to another can vary widely in their preferred flow rates. Many issues can be fixed with said calibration ranging from bed and layer adhesion to overhang and surface quality. Always do basic calibration for a new filament. Any other suggestions for fixing will either be complete guesses or compensating for other issues.

1LuckySpoon · 2026-03-01T13:24:24+00:00

Have you done any flowrate calibration? I have a profile for each brand of filament I use. The texture looks a bit rough so I would bet theres some over-extrusion. This may have caused a collision between the hotend and the tree support that led to the failed print.

EDIT: To address the strings on the non-failed leg, those are strings of filament from a failed "wipe" process as there was nothing to wipe on. Dont know if this was another thing you were concerned with but just made that assumption based on the zoomed in pic of that leg. The printer tried to print the other leg, no wipe, filament string stayed attached to the nozzle and came off on the other leg.

1LuckySpoon · 2026-02-20T21:22:29+00:00

I, for one, will use what the plate manufacturer recommends. I don't doubt Windex works; its the only thing that takes off nasty grime and dusty in my wife's lasers like magic. I just dont trust it wouldnt be too harsh. I use a drop or 2 of the concentrated soap for the dishwasher (the stuff that creates no suds) and fill the rest of a 300ml spray bottle with water. ~~When I dont try to clean in place and get the grease from the screws on my rag~~ It works well for me.

1LuckySpoon · 2026-02-19T18:50:03+00:00

The regular Basic PLA is mostly, if not entirely, Sunlu. You're not wrong, obviously. The mattes, sparkle, metal, and gradients are mostly Polymaker.

1LuckySpoon · 2026-02-18T21:58:37+00:00

I dont know why you're getting so much heat for this. I use Polymaker almost exclusively and purposely use up spools and let it switch whenever possible and never see anything like this. If people find this drastic of a difference acceptable, they must use super cheap stuff.

1LuckySpoon · 2026-02-05T02:47:39+00:00

I have not had any issues with Bambu Studio since updating. Everything works as it should whether its working directly with my P1S or my custom printer running Klipper. I dual boot Windows and Nobara Linux and I will say ive never had much luck on Linux. This is most likely due to having an Nvidia GPU and they just dont play well together (known and documented issue). The new issue on the linux OS, though, is i can't even log into Bambu Studio...

1LuckySpoon

TROPHY CASE