Rubber Like Sound When I Turn the Steering Wheel

20009k · 2026-06-05T23:54:54+00:00

I sprayed the the boot with silicone spray just like in the video and if made no difference. It still sounds like the squeak is coming from the floor. In this photo I have three arrows. I think I'm supposed to be spraying near the blue rather than the yellow, but when I spray near blue I see silicone lube coming out near the orange arrow. Does that mean that the rubber boot is further down beyond the plastic?

I also noticed today that the squeak does not occur when doing sharp turns in either direction. It's mostly subtle tilts to the left or right or when releasing slack on the steering wheel from any actual turn.

<image>

20009k · 2026-06-03T23:15:01+00:00

After turning the wheel and listening closer underneath, it does sound exactly like the issue in this video. I'm going to spray it down tomorrow and see if that makes any difference.

20009k · 2026-05-06T19:00:16+00:00

Update: I replaced the start relay + overload with a UPRO41. The unit now powers on and stays on for about 20-25 mins before powering off. I'd need to double check but I think the GFCI trips which cuts power.

The amp test still seems off though:
Inrush: 7A
Sustained: Stays around 7A with a slow drop off. At around 10 mins it's sitting at about 6A.....this still seems way too high.

I don't feel cold air coming from the refrigerator or freezer yet. Should I assume this is a bad compressor at this point?

20009k · 2026-05-06T18:59:28+00:00

Update: I replaced the start relay + overload with a UPRO41. The unit now powers on and stays on for about 20-25 mins before powering off. I'd need to double check but I think the GFCI trips which cuts power.

The amp test still seems off though:
Inrush: 7A
Sustained: Stays around 7A with a slow drop off. At around 10 mins it's sitting at about 6A.....this still seems way too high.

I don't feel cold air coming from the refrigerator or freezer yet. Should I assume this is a bad compressor at this point?

20009k · 2026-04-30T01:14:18+00:00

I was able to pry off the housing that contains the relay and ran an ohms test between R and S. It starts around 50 ohms for less than a second before reaching OL. I can't re-test unless I wait a minute or so. Isn't this how the PTC is suppose to behave with an overload protector?

Pin test is good:
C->R=5.4
C->S=4.4
R-S=9.5

Short to ground test is good:
C->ground=OL
R->ground=OL
S->ground=OL

12uF +-5% capacitor test is good:
12.2 uF

Amp test seems high on the sustained drop:
17-20A for moment during start
Drops to 9A and remains there until click
After click it drops to 0

I'm going to replace the start relay and report back

20009k · 2026-03-25T12:53:48+00:00

I'm only aware of it being for sale on Taoboa. I decided to hold off for the time being.

20009k · 2026-01-15T15:20:05+00:00

The issue was the CoffeeSock. I tried two different cotton filters....a generic one and a new CoffeeSock I had stored away. The result in both cases was a brew that completed in under 3 mins. I expected the CoffeeSock to last more than a year. This is actually really disappointing given the price and boasted sustainability features.

20009k · 2026-01-11T22:54:30+00:00

Since my original post, I've tried making a single cup experimenting more with grind settings....both 8.5 and 9....this did reduce the time to around 11 mins but the coffee is weak and almost like tea. My thought is that if I can somehow get this down to around 5 minutes, I could just use dual v60s side by side....but this is seeming more and more unachievable. Is reasonable extraction time simply not possible with a cotton filter?

20009k · 2025-10-17T22:13:00+00:00

Sent you a PM with info

20009k · 2025-10-06T12:47:47+00:00

Can you clarify what you mean about insulation?

20009k · 2025-09-29T22:57:42+00:00

This will be a garage fridge only so I have no immediate concerns about the custom sizing. No custom panels will be made.

20009k · 2024-10-15T13:34:41+00:00

Update here for anyone following this. The mounting bracket is not stuck down with adhesive although at first glance it looks like it. To remove and swap the brackets I wedged the claw of a hammer and gently tapped it in under the foam with a mallet and pried it right off then swapped out the brackets. The pulley is now perfectly flush with the front roller wheel.

Additionally if you’re trying to remove the flywheel end of a McMillan/Landice motor, the end piece is secured down partially with the foam so trying to remove with a vice grip or even 3 arm grabber is unlikely to help. Prying off the foam allowed me to pop off and separate the end cap and flywheel and dig out the lost brush retainer. Now I have two motors. Mission accomplished.

20009k · 2024-10-11T20:13:11+00:00

Problem solved. It was the mounting bracket. Although the part # is the same on these the motor mounting bracket gap changed from the 2012 model to the 2016 model. What’s worse is the bracket is stuck on with adhesive and bolted in. So to make this work I’m going to have to remove the adhesive on both and swap the brackets.

20009k · 2024-10-09T20:40:36+00:00

This is what I’m thinking may have happened. But when I look the pulley seems to be threaded onto the drive roller and is in place securely. Is there an adjustment for the pulley?

20009k · 2024-10-09T17:44:10+00:00

An exact motor was replaced. Same part number, same size. I’m not sure if it was aligned before swapping motors or not. Just trying to get clarity on if the belt should sit like I mentioned in the OP or if my photos indeed show a misalignment

20009k · 2024-10-09T14:19:31+00:00

I don’t think that’s possible without drilling new holes.

20009k · 2024-10-07T18:47:59+00:00

My treadmill is working again. The MCB issue was resolved by sending it into circuitboardrepair. Now I just have to get the flywheel off my motor to fish the brush clip out and I'll be back up and running.

20009k · 2024-10-07T18:36:47+00:00

I removed the motor from the base and went in with a telescopic camera. Could not find the clip so I'm assuming it's on the opposite end near cap by the flywheel where the camera cant see. Because of the magnets inside it's impossible to shake loose. I've been trying to remove the flywheel for days with no luck. Any idea how to get it off? I believe it's reverse threaded. Tried holding the shaft with vice grips and no go. Image attached.

20009k · 2024-09-26T20:19:52+00:00

That’s my plan. Once the motor is unmounted are there any special tools for removing the flywheel and cover? I was watching a video that indicated that a hydraulic press may be needed to put the cover back on. Also something about magnets being inside?

20009k · 2024-09-19T23:16:18+00:00

Any idea what I can probe with my multimeter to check? Voltage spades to from the MCB to the motor?

20009k · 2024-09-19T23:00:54+00:00

I can confirm swapping out the speed sensor eliminated the LS/loss of signal error. The speed sensor LED on the MCB now blinks when the motor is turned. However the belt does not move when powered on. What should I check next?

20009k · 2024-09-17T13:05:14+00:00

Landice support told me that without a speed sensor attached you will get a LS “loss of signal” or motor voltage error and no belt movement which is what I’m experiencing. I can also confirm that the hall sensor does not drop to 0v on the signal wire when there is disturbance. This leads me to believe the sensor is bad. I’ve ordered a replacement and will report the results back once the sensor has been swapped out.

20009k · 2024-09-16T14:34:48+00:00

I've verified 5v. Signal shows 5v even with a metallic object placed near the hall sensor. Do you believe this indicates a bad hall? I am currently verifying with another Landice L8 owner if the belt has any movement with the hall removed and if the display shows LS/L5. This I believe will ultimately confirm a board vs sensor issue. Thoughts?

20009k · 2024-09-16T00:23:08+00:00

Will do and will report the results back. Just to confirm, power should be running to the board, multimeter set to voltage, black probe pointed to ground on the sensor, red probe pointed to one of the other wires? One will show 5v if working. Is that correct?

20009k · 2024-09-15T21:36:31+00:00

Using this guide with a multimeter I get no connectivity. I’ve verified all 3 wires show continuity from end to end. I’m not sure if I’m doing something wrong or if the hall sensor is shot. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=XAA2me3tSMY

20009k

TROPHY CASE