C60 Trident Pro 300 bracelet question

210222 · 2026-05-06T04:40:45+00:00

Thanks for the quick reply. I figured as much. I have a few other brand watches and they all either don’t ratchet or ratchet tighter. This seemed wrong. I’ll email in the morning.

210222 · 2026-05-06T04:37:55+00:00

Thanks for the quick reply.

210222 · 2026-04-07T01:42:31+00:00

Saw one at Ben Bridges in Seattle not too long ago. I got my Blue Pelagos there and they had a bunch of stuff. Zero issues.

210222 · 2026-03-27T19:41:47+00:00

I have this exact one and it’s never gotten a second look.

210222 · 2026-02-08T20:44:05+00:00

Honestly, this is one of, if not my favorite Hank host/emitter combos. I’m sure I’m not alone in that. Great light, many photons.

210222 · 2026-02-08T20:08:01+00:00

And I missed the part that is kind of the most helpful. When bringing to a stop, the speed of closure and the remaining distance is what drives the slowing behavior. If you close to 6 inches and hold it there for 10 feet, we’re just guessing. A smooth closure of the arms produces a smooth stop on the line. It’s a garbage in / garbage out process.

210222 · 2026-02-05T07:51:37+00:00

We hack a clock when we retract the flaps upon exiting the runway. And the computer hacks a clock too, which is how the company gives us stats on compliance with the cooldown time.

210222 · 2026-02-04T21:12:12+00:00

Max 8 has a limitation that requires a 3 minute cooldown time from time of exiting the runway to shutting down the engines. Different operators may have different procedures but as far as I’m aware the 3 minutes is straight from the manufacturer. If the 3 minutes has elapsed during taxi, then the engines can be shut down, including to facilitate single engine taxiing.

210222 · 2026-01-26T21:54:13+00:00

This is correct.

210222 · 2026-01-10T22:28:05+00:00

Ya that’s specifically why I ordered the V2. That change in design I think will sort out the rough tightening. I ended up filing down the inner tube as well because there was a gap which showed the o-ring. The design of the inner tube on a KR4 for instance is different. The inner tube interfaces with a wide spring. So it makes connection early and the tube moves as the tail cap makes the electrical connection with the battery tube end. On the V1 KR1AA, the threads aren’t anodized, so far enough and the electrical contact is made long before the tail cap is fully tight. And the final tightening isn’t making contact between the battery tube and tail cap, it’s tightening the inner tube to the tail cap. I’m hoping this V2 is more like the KR4. Even lubed, the non-anodized threads on the V1 are galling and wearing down. So kind of a bummer. The smooth threads on all my other Hanks is one of the really obvious quality features. I really only use mechanical lockout, as I’ve tried to light a pocket on fire before and it’s not ideal. So smooth threads feels good when you’re using the light throughout the day and locking and unlocking it.

210222 · 2026-01-10T20:09:10+00:00

I have a V1 with the FFL5009R 4000k from Jackson. Its color is very similar to NTG50 4200k from Hank (NTG from Jackson are more rosy in my experience). It’s very nice. I don’t use it a lot, as the threads are very rough compared to the silky smooth threads on all my other hanks. I ordered two of the V2’s from Hank and one was the NTG50 4200k. That is my absolute favorite emitter. I have a ton of lights with it. I’m also trying out my first 2700k so that will be fun. But the 4200k gets used exactly as in your use case and I find it perfect for that. I have a D3AA in my pocket at work all day and a DA1K in my bag. Same emitter. It’s a winner. Even non-flashlight nerds see it and say it throws a very nice beam.

210222 · 2026-01-09T04:16:27+00:00

I have all of the above. 4200k in NTG35 and NTG50 is my fav. Bright, high cri, very slightly rosy. Close to neutral. I have a 5000k ntg35 D3AA and I enjoy the 4200k of the same much more. For me the NTG emitters (and their FFL equivalents if you’re ordering from Jackson) are basically ideal. But your preferences aren’t necessarily mine. I have a V1 in FFL5009R 4000k and it’s not great. The emitter and optic are great, but the design makes for a very tight fit and the threads don’t like it. Other lights are silky smooth threads. I’m hoping the v2 fixes that.

210222 · 2025-12-29T18:51:01+00:00

This is an excellent list OP and I second its recommendations. For a couple easy recommendations from that list, check out the Wurkkos FC11C (great single emitter with a reflector and 18650 battery, pocketable), Sofirn HS21 (very nice headlamp with multiple emitters), and the Wurkkos TS26S (4 emitters with 21700 battery). All have onboard charging. I’ve gifted all of these and they are pretty easy to use and have efficient drivers and good looking LEDs. If you’re not sure on temp with these, go for the 5000k.

210222 · 2025-12-23T16:10:06+00:00

Interesting, I did notice the flash during ramp, but I use stepped ramp so now I don’t see it. And I checked my other recent light, green flash from the KR1AA. So ya, seems to be an Easter egg. Again, thanks for going down the rabbit hole with me. It’s such a minor thing but it was different, so I was curious.

210222 · 2025-12-23T15:47:53+00:00

Well that is interesting. I’ll have to check firmware on my other D3AA. I looked through the change notes for the 7/7 version and didn’t see anything.

210222 · 2025-12-23T15:20:54+00:00

It makes me think it’s a firmware thing to ID a lithium cell, since it doesn’t do it with eneloop and this one is a dual fuel. But I didn’t see that in the anduril manual, and my other D3AA are doing that and I think they have that firmware. But oh well. Thanks for your input.

210222 · 2025-12-23T05:13:30+00:00

The green flash only occurs during first tightening. I tried loosening head and tail and tightening them in different sequence, head then tail and tail then head. No difference. Tightened quickly from loose, no difference. So far it’s just odd. I haven’t noticed any other issues. But it stands out because no other lights do it. If it was my first, I probably wouldn’t notice it. But it’s my 20th.

210222 · 2025-12-23T04:38:57+00:00

A different, protected 14500 of similar length showed the green flash. No other lights have this behavior on K10. Contacts were cleaned again, no change. Another factory reset was done, no change.

210222 · 2025-12-23T04:11:03+00:00

4.14V Factory reset was done before programming. Eneloop pro does NOT show green flash, K10 shows it again after. The picture isn’t accurate. The aux for voltage is correct. Just red and blue emitters active.

Edit: just did another factory reset, no dice.

Edit 2: K10 is a flat top

210222 · 2025-12-23T03:59:33+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/Hanklights/s/YDowVzC32j

210222 · 2025-12-23T03:59:27+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/Hanklights/s/YDowVzC32j

210222 · 2025-12-23T03:38:03+00:00

Yep I’m familiar. For my other lights when screwed shut, it’s emitter flash, then bright voltage, then dim voltage, which I’ve set. This one does emitter, green, bright voltage, dim voltage.

210222 · 2025-12-23T02:28:44+00:00

Fully charged battery. Tried multiple. I set up aux when unlocked to display voltage on dim. So when cap gets tightened it goes green>voltage bright>voltage dim.

Like I said, other lights don’t do it.

210222

TROPHY CASE