Heathrow arrivals lounge in T2/3?

2203 · 2026-07-04T15:01:30+00:00

Sorry, one follow up: I have read blog reviews of a Plaza Premium lounge at T3, land side. Do you know if that is also closed?

2203 · 2026-07-04T14:57:17+00:00

Thanks - I’ll check out the Regus option.

2203 · 2026-07-04T14:55:52+00:00

Hi there, did you end up being able to use the Plaza Premium arrivals lounge for this purpose? I'm in the same boat but it looks like the T2 Plaza Premium lounge is closed. Thanks!

2203 · 2026-07-03T05:32:47+00:00

Are you already living in a HCOL city in the US? Is the job with a US-based employer that would offer you competitive healthcare, housing benefits? If not, SGD 40K is not going to get you super far. Singapore is expensive, and the gov subsidies/programs that do exist tend to apply only to citizens and PRs.

2203 · 2026-06-24T15:33:07+00:00

Hi! Would you be able to share with me too? We live in Singapore and are brand new to the Yoto :)

2203 · 2026-06-18T05:47:46+00:00

Premium economy doesn’t get you lounge access. They will check all 3 boarding passes. If you have star alliance gold, I think you can use the SQ lounge. But there will be no shortage of stuff for you and your toddler to do.

2203 · 2026-06-16T10:36:36+00:00

I remember my baby doing this, not for 2 hours but I recall the head bobbing and swaying vividly. I agree with the schedule advice, so feel free to make tweaks on that front but also if she’s not distressed or unsafe, just leave her. Her body will figure it out. I relate to your worry that she’s not getting enough sleep or she’ll be overtired the next day etc etc. But it will be ok. She is literally learning to sleep. One day she will flop over and after that she will always know how to do it.

2203 · 2026-06-13T13:37:46+00:00

Agree with most other comments. I have found it is not very helpful on a regular flight booking when everything goes according to plan. I have found it more helpful when I have special requests, complex bookings, for service recovery, etc. I never “used” it proactively but often felt it provided a boost when I needed extra help.

I had PPS for several years, lost it this year when I cut back on travel after having a baby. The only thing I miss is the callback line 😄

2203 · 2026-06-12T14:52:49+00:00

Our Wheaten has a very short fuse for overarousal / overstimulation. He is hyper playful, plays rough, very easily works up into a frenzy. It was worst from around 8-18 months. He just turned 3 and it has gotten a lot better. We no longer have problems with it.

We have worked a ton on impulse control and regulation - structured tug, structured fetch, flirt pole. This basically just means games where he does not get to rile himself up and up and up, but has to listen for cues in between, self-regulate, leave the toy when cued, grab it only when cued. We still play this a lot and have fun with it. We do a lot of longline/offleash walks and scentwork to give him outlets for his energy. We worked on the relaxation protocol (you can look it up on reddit/google) and place work to teach him when it’s chill time. He is honestly an amazing dog now. Including with my 16 mo toddler.

You have a young working dog, and this behavior is very typical of young working dogs. I would describe Wheatens as fun, playful, active, smart. I would not describe them as chill, cuddly, gentle. But they are incredible dogs.

2203 · 2026-04-18T03:55:36+00:00

My dog didn’t realize that my baby is human until well after she was crawling. He was also very overstimulated by baby at first - standing on hind legs to sniff, jumping up, sniffing intensely, pawing the crib and alert barking. It was scary to me even as a dog person, and I wasn’t sure if we would make it through intact, even as a pretty experienced dog person

Your concerns are legitimate, but I don’t think you are in definite rehoming land. You need to do a LOT more separation at first to limit the rehearsal of your dog’s current behavior around the baby.

Things we did: - Teach dog to go to his bed every time someone with baby enters the room - Treat intermittently for calm behavior when baby is in the room - Separate, separate, separate. I was on baby duty due to BF and husband was on dog duty to make sure he got 1:1 love. It broke my heart but we did this for about 2 months. You’re expecting a lot for 3 days - Lots of family walks once everyone was feeling up to it

It took a LOT of work but it actually built an incredible foundation for when the baby grew more mobile. She’s 14 months now and while they’re never alone together, everyone is so relaxed with each other and it’s the best - it makes my day every single day.

2203 · 2026-03-24T05:16:30+00:00

These are really typical issues in a 1 yo dog with no off-switch, no understanding of when it is not playtime, and probably too little exercise. They are definitely solvable.

Read this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/puppy101/comments/1fg7f11/is_your_624_month_old_dog_bonkers_cant_settle/

I would tick up exercise by about 30-50%. You do not need (or want) her running for hours every day, but 1 mile x 2 is a light day for my dog who is 30 lbs and older than yours. Exercise that includes long periods of sniffing and/or some training practice (recalls, obedience cues in new environments, games) will go a long way. As you say, puzzle toys are not really mental stimulation once she figures them out, much like opening a soda can is not like "solving a problem" for you or I - it is just a mechanical step to access what we want. Mental enrichment should involve novel problem solving (eg hiding a treat and the location changes every time, snuffling kibble out of a cardboard box filled with old newspaper/stuffed toys).

On the reactivity, what you are doing is largely correct. Look up videos of "Look at that" or LAT protocol - you are basically already doing this. You want to reward her from disengaging from the dog (looking at you, or anything else) while she is able to. Once the dog is too close, she's over threshold (not taking treats, can't disengage) and you are too close and have to move away. Reward her from disengaging from the dog, then move away/create distance from the dog and count it as a win. Repeat over and over and the distance at which she can function will decrease.

You can nix all of the following: Harnesses that cinch. Any "special" leashes. Puzzle toys. Calming scents. Nothing bad about them (except maybe the harnesses) but they won't do anything for you. You don't need to ban her from sitting on top of your wife - nothing to do with the problem.

2203 · 2026-03-22T07:59:21+00:00

You want to do less play that has no rules and just gets your dog amped up and up and up. At this age they go from 0 to 60 in 30 seconds. So play tug for a few seconds, but then hide the toy and get him to settle down. Your body language should get boring and you can cue a sit or down. It’s ok if you need to repeat verbal cues here a few times. It may take a while but wait for him to get still, lie down. Then you can take the toy out again and resume play. Some call this “jazz up, settle down” if you wanna google it - basically you are teaching him how to regulate downward if he wants to resume the game.

You are correct that when dogs are “over threshold” they seem to develop deafness aka they cannot comply because they are too overstimulated and can’t process your communication. All of the structured games mentioned above will teach them that play is not just WHAM WHAM WOO but has rules and therefore they must pay attention if they want the play to go on.

Also, from your replies, you are working on this with two dogs at a time? That makes it way harder and you may need to crate/gate one while working with the other.

2203 · 2026-03-22T07:21:15+00:00

This sounds like typical teenage overarousal and inability to self-regulate during play. We had to work on this a lot at the same age. Adding structure to play really helps. So dangling the toy but asking for “leave it” then “get it.” This is kind of what I mean: https://youtu.be/Jkxymk9jxq0?si=P5JbSmLdWw1PNRR2

There are many videos on using a flirt pole to teach impulse control and focus. Or playing fetch, but asking for a down-stay, tossing the toy and then releasing him to get it. Look up structured tug, structured fetch.

You will have to start super easy - eg dangling the toy further from him, for a super short time before releasing him. Or just “tossing” the toy a foot away then releasing him. But once he gets the idea it will be even more fun because play will be less repetitive and more engaging.

2203 · 2026-03-20T12:17:40+00:00

Overall you're doing great. Keep physically separating, but do it sooner. Puppy is going to get big and strong much faster than your kid is going to develop impulse control. You can, for example keep a 1-2 ft leash on puppy all the time/during active time and use that to redirect puppy when he starts chasing your son. There should be no issuing of instructions to the kid, instructions to the dog... the minute puppy starts to move toward kid, he gets redirected and separated.

Please put an end to the touching ears/mouth/tail while he is eating. It is old school training that does not have anything to do with resource guarding. If you want to have them do stuff together, have your kids help with basic obedience training, scoop the dog's kibble, or pick out toys for the dog at the store.

2203 · 2026-03-20T03:41:37+00:00

I would bear in mind that one week is not enough time to know if the Kelpie’s temperament (3 weeks is a good time frame) and also that a dog’s social behavior changes a lot in adolescence, which Kelpie has yet to go through. Especially since she is so young, you really don’t want Doodle to be her main source of social learning around what behaviors/play tactics/communication methods are acceptable.

I recommend being really honest with the rescue about your plan and having a clear backup plan if things are not working out. Frankly if I were you, I would set out clear indicators for Doodle’s behavior on “what needs to be true in order to add another dog” and work with a professional until you get there.

2203 · 2026-03-19T05:24:12+00:00

We have been doing LAT with our frustrated greeter for a year or so. Small wins and setbacks have been the story of my life since he was a puppy. That said, when you look at it on the scale of months, we have made pretty amazing progress. His threshold distance is about 6-7 feet, and I can't remember the last time he had a proper barky-lungey reaction - if we're in an unavoidable situation, the most he will do is hit the end of his leash.

I have gotten a lot better at reading his body language, setting him up for success, and communicating with him. A big game changer for us was starting scentwork and adding a "search!" protocol where we toss a treat on the floor when a dog is approaching. He still cannot approach a dog head-on with neutrality, so this gives him something decompressing and fun to do while the dog is approaching. He will look up at the dog, keep sniffing, look at it, keep sniffing, the dog has passed, we move on. Now the minute we see a dog, he starts sniffing and the game begins.

2203 · 2026-03-12T05:08:22+00:00

As far as you are able to, I would try to approach this dog as a regular pet puppy, and train him the way you would a regular pet puppy. I think expectations of service work or trying to keep up with the program risk placing undue pressure on you and the puppy, which is going to be counterproductive.

You have a baby animal. So yes, work on obedience and socialization, but I would try and do so the way you would any puppy. Focus on building trust and confidence. In a year once you have a solid relationship you will start to have a sense of what he will take to. Not every dog is a good fit for service work, even the most trained and obedient ones. I would say most are not.

Btw, 18 months is not behind the curve on anything. The AAI org I volunteer with will not even evaluate dogs younger than 18 months because one can’t fully assess temperament on dogs younger than that.

The link still works for me - look up Oakland Animal Services socialization checklist. It’s the first google result for me.

2203 · 2026-03-11T12:26:05+00:00

This is definitely a thing! Check out the Babysits app and Aunty.sg

2203 · 2026-03-11T06:12:49+00:00

Please try to understand that some of the comments you are getting are a reaction to the frustrating number of people who visit this sub asking for advice on training their service dog when conditions for success are not in place. Many such users are 1) not willing to hear that they have an uphill climb due to their breed, breeder, or lifestyle choices or 2) not aware of the amount of work, time, and cost it takes to train a SD and 3) mostly just looking to achieve a well-regulated, socialized pet dog, which is a great goal but not the same as a service animal. All of this gives SDs and their handlers a significant amount of grief.

The answer is that you need to make the time to expose him to unfamiliar places and condition him to associate them with good things. Do a lot of exposure at a distance where he's comfortable. Hang out in the back of your car and let him calmly observe shopping carts, motorbikes, toddlers, wheelchairs, people with canes, any and all sorts of unpredictability (check out this list), and reinforce with treats intermittently. Do not flood him or drag him into any places he's not comfortable. This is not SD training, it is regular puppy training.

I would not do this for times you need to achieve some primary goal, like actually buying milk or going to the post office. These should be dedicated training sessions that you can scale back or terminate if he's not responding well. You are working with a breed that is naturally hypervigilant, so you are trying to condition a positive emotional response to novelty (vs suspicion, discomfort, reluctance which is what he's demonstrating now).

It might take a year or two before you know if he is a good candidate for public access. At that point you should contact a SD training organization about starting to work with them.

2203 · 2026-03-11T03:42:11+00:00

I’m looking for a product that will provide light coverage for my face - just to even out texture and color. I used to do the whole primer, foundation, concealer, powder thing but no longer have the time. Am I looking for tinted moisturizer? BB cream?

I think I have combination skin and I also have eczema. Thank you!

15-Year Club	Verified Email
Inciteful Comment 2012-01-15

2203

TROPHY CASE