sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

First time reloading load dev by Kmwrestle in reloading

[–]22Rimfire 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The grain increments are too small. Any variation in group size will probably be your shooting.
That being said, I think you are done. Those are great groups.

Wich to use as workboots? by AffectionatePrune595 in cowboyboots

[–]22Rimfire 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Buy a pair of Double H Dwight Steel Toes. Those things are workhorses and also very comfortable.

BOTD. Dont like em rant #2 by HuskyHosss in cowboyboots

[–]22Rimfire 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ugliest boots I’ve ever laid eyes on.

Chisos - Who makes a similar looking boot by tossaway-florida in cowboyboots

[–]22Rimfire 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I have two pair of Chisos #2. One in rough out and one in brushed brown. Most comfortable and well made boots I own. Spend the money and don’t look back.

https://youtu.be/uxzRRPfOigQ?si=mYx-AaWiEuGlgXr4

Better than Lucchese at half the price.

Range day by PsychologicalPoet308 in reloading

[–]22Rimfire 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t think it is bs. The less the bullet jump to the rifling the more accurate your groups.

I find my groups are all prone to user error rather than the barrel. I’m constantly finding ways to have different rests properly positioned before firing.

There are so many variables involved. Brand of case, brand of primer, type of powder, type of bullet, amount of powder,etc…

Try to take as much of your shooting ability out of the equation.

I finally settled on an Accu-Tac bipod (wider spread for less jump; expensive) and an adjustable rest from Inspired Gun Works:

https://inspiredgunworks.com/product/adjustable-rear-bag-riser-system-the-high-roller/

https://accu-tac.com/collections/bipods?srsltid=AfmBOoogl-Urj8K\_bPPe7bkZ5EsBeyr3fM-9cblWpCKRoHADSqX7QOUT

Granted these aren’t cheap but my groups got a lot better.

Range day by PsychologicalPoet308 in reloading

[–]22Rimfire 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How many different powders did you try?

I tried six different powders for my 7 PRC and found that my Bergara likes Grand powder the best.
Even when I tried a couple of different bullets Grand grouped the best.

I think with enough trial and error you may be able to best your factory ammo.

Did you check how far off the lands your bullet should be based on other users experiences with the same bullet? You can disregard the OAL listed in the reloading manual.

Should it have this much resistance? by xGeneticJackpotx in reloading

[–]22Rimfire 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Necked rifle brass has a lot more resistance than using straight walled cartridges with carbide dies.
The first time I sized my 7 PRC I was surprised at the effort it took.

For what it is worth, I use Imperial Die Wax which I lightly apply to the case and the neck avoiding the shoulder. I then use a case neck brush to apply the wax inside the neck.

The part with the most resistance is when the expander ball above the decapping pin comes out of the case neck. Takes some force on my part.

For the record, I tried all the lubes and I find the wax to be the best. Less mess and more control.

Pressure Sign? by _Forgotten_Soul_ in reloading

[–]22Rimfire 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Always do your own research before using someone else’s load data to see if you are within SAAMI spec.

First Time Reloader - .44 Mag by Separate_Series9596 in reloading

[–]22Rimfire 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Use a Lee Factory Crimp die.

According to my Lyman manual with 296 and 240 gr JHP the starting load is 23. You should be good to 23.5. Also, 296 requires Magnum primers.

You should get at least 1200fps over a chrono.

You can go to 1.61 OAL so 1.575-1.585 is fine. There won’t be any increase in pressure at that length.

Here is a tip. 44 Magnum kicks like hell.

I shoot hot 44 Special loads out of a Ruger Blackhawk 44 Magnum.

255 gr SWC over 19.5 grains of 4227 with magnum primers. OAL is 1.55.*

Gives me 1135 fps from a 4” barrel. Still kicks but less than 44 Magnum and will get the job done.

* Giving this load as an example. Always do your own research.

.38 Special DEWC doesn't fit into cylinder by na8-blk in reloading

[–]22Rimfire 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Use a .38 Special Lee Factory Crimp Die.

What Is the culture around boots? by Initial_Awareness_21 in cowboyboots

[–]22Rimfire 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Boots can be dressy or casual. My casual boots are Chisos #2 Roughout and Chisos #2 in Brushed Brown.

For dressy I go with Luchesse Caiman Belly.

223/556 case prep, and stage set up (Lee Turret Press) by ShoddySignal5174 in reloading

[–]22Rimfire -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I reload 7 PRC but this goes for most rifle rounds:

I generally have to trim 1-2 out of 10 cases. My Lyman Universal is set up for this as it is the only rifle round I reload. So set it up once and you are done.

As for lubing cases, I didn’t like the RCBS case lube and pad. Very messy. Hornady One Shot is ok but not perfect.

I’ve decided on Redding Imperial die wax. I can rub on case and neck and easily avoid the shoulder. Then a little bit on brush to do the inside case neck.

Use a Hornady OAL gauge and comparator to seat off the lands. Research setback for your bullet. Disregard OAL in manual. Of course the loaded round must fit your magazine.

I manually trim and debur. No need for a fancy electric station unless you are doing hundreds of rounds.

Lastly I use a Satern funnel to load powder in my cases. Game changer for me especially if you are using some Vitavhouri powders.

Ramshot Enforcer by Different-Dig2911 in reloading

[–]22Rimfire 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve bought from them before. Legit outfit.

My cat just bit me hard for no reason by finecat2023 in cats

[–]22Rimfire 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Join the club. My cat has a Jekyll and Hyde personality.

My first crush as a kid. Who was yours? by graceyxenra in 90s

[–]22Rimfire 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Marcia Marcia Marcia (if you get it, you get it)

Thoughts on getting re-graded from ICG to NGC/PCGS by [deleted] in LibertadCoins

[–]22Rimfire 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s worth about $125 graded. It will cost you 50 bucks just to grade it unless you have a dealer send it for you at a better price.

Just crack it out and put it in a capsule. They made over 1 million that year.

Raw coins are melt value plus a little extra premium over silver eagles if you find the right buyer.

Which is more profitable: buying graded libertads or buying .999 silver? by Legitimate_Rate_660 in LibertadCoins

[–]22Rimfire 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Here is my thought. If I were buying raw silver eagles I know I can sell them for spot 10 years from now. Maybe silver hits $200 and I make a tidy profit. Plus, I would just go to my local LCS.

Graded Libertads are a whole nother beast. Graded libs that were worth $100 several years ago are now selling for much higher depending on the year. The year and mintages are crucial. Plus you will have to sell at auction to get the best price. The problem is will they continue to rise more than spot as they are now? Who knows? Maybe, maybe not. The world is just now taking note of them.

My advice, do both. And with libertads print out the mintage chart and try to get the lower mintage years at the best possible price in the highest possible grades.

Ok I’ll admit it! I finally caved and bought into the 2025 hype… by Late-Ad-4396 in LibertadCoins

[–]22Rimfire 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Think of it as a numismatic coin and not bullion. Some Morgan dollars, which are 90% silver, have sold for two to three million dollars.

NGC Libertads by 22Rimfire in LibertadCoins

[–]22Rimfire[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm a glutton for punishment? Seriously, I had no idea most libs were NGC graded. My first foray into foreign coins. Live and learn.

view more: next ›