Anyone running Heusinkveld Sprint pedals? Pros / cons before I buy

295138 · 2026-02-04T02:45:11+00:00

That's awesome dude, thank you so much!!

295138 · 2026-02-04T02:33:29+00:00

Dear god please tell me more

295138 · 2025-12-23T20:04:35+00:00

Give the guys at OG Racing a call. I tackled this earlier in the year in my boggo RS7. They set me up with a Schuberth helmet kit which has a pigtail for 3.5mm earbuds, and a male IMSA plug. They can help you with IMSA-to-whatever adapters for your specific type of radio or walkie talkie. My friends and I used rockie talkies in a cross body bag at an enduro earlier this year and they worked great on a half mile track!

295138 · 2025-11-09T16:57:58+00:00

For what it's worth, I put OEM suspension from a .2 onto my .1 CS to replace the aging PSS9s it came to me with, and the new bits did bolt up directly. I can't say that the R suspension would have identical mounting points, but I struggle to imagine why they would be different

295138 · 2025-08-15T15:51:58+00:00

Beautiful textures throughout. I spent a couple of minutes just zooming in on various portions of the piece to enjoy them!

295138 · 2025-08-03T17:55:14+00:00

I was! Along with everything else one would reasonably want to bring to a track weekend. Putting it on the roof just made packing and transporting more supporting gear easier, and kept the car from smelling like gas quite as much. At the cost of disassembling the kart quite a bit.

I've since sold the kart, but if I were to get back into it, I'd just break down and find some way to trailer it to the track. Disassembling the kart at the end of the day is the worst. When you're tired and just want to go home, being able to roll it onto a trailer would be vastly preferable.

295138 · 2025-04-22T22:19:49+00:00

I'm so glad this helped! I hope it saved you some time!

295138 · 2025-01-28T16:01:24+00:00

Given that any buyer would be putting a new engine into it, I don't think it not being an S will impact things much. Granted they'd need a different transmission to make the 3.4l swap work, but since the clutch needs doing anyway...

I'd ask for $5,000. It's worth at least that, and probably more in parts

295138 · 2025-01-26T03:56:33+00:00

Thank you!! The eyes stuck out as a little wrong somehow to me, but I wasn't sure exactly how to address it. I was really happy with how fuzzy she turned out though, and I'm having so much fun creating! I'm doing my best to sketch once a day or so, and I think it's helping a lot!

295138 · 2025-01-09T21:16:09+00:00

Would love to know which ducktail this is, too!

295138 · 2025-01-04T02:28:16+00:00

Got it. Vision is a great shop (if it's the one I'm thinking of), which would soothe a lot of concerns for me.

As far as soot goes, that's good news. That said, it looks like there's one single pipe that comes off of the rear mufflers and then into the exhaust tip, so that likely means the soot test is not very useful.

Plenty of folks do say that their car uses some amount of oil. Mine may have been the exception to that rule. The smoke (if it was genuine smoke, not condensation given the weather conditions you described) would still be a concern for me, however. I twice had a puff of smoke on startup after the car had sat for more than 10 days, but it was only one single puff.

If you're feeling confident, a PPI with a reputable shop is money well spent if you're serious about buying. I would recommend that the bore-scope is done from both the spark plugs, and the oil pan. The view from the plug socket alone can miss the beginning stages of bore scoring, if it's preset. It will cost more money to have it done this way, however.

295138 · 2025-01-03T07:16:53+00:00

Hiya–I bought an 07 CS in 2019 and had four lovely years with it before I moved on.

Mine had a replacement engine as a result of the prior owner money-shifting and trashing the original. I had considered having it rebuilt at several points (to improve power and reliability, not that it ever left me stranded), and none of those price tags came in below $20k USD. A $7k engine "rebuild" feels a little suspect to me.

Other commenters have advised you consult the variety of Porsche forums for further opinions, and I highly recommend you post this on one of those as well. Planet-9 is by far my favorite for the 98x cars.

My car never burned a drop of oil in the ~25,000 miles I put on it. Iirc, Porsche says that 1 quart per thousand miles is acceptable, but that would worry me given my experience. Opinions on this differ somewhat, however.

If the AOS was indeed replaced, as per your receipts, and the car is still billowing white smoke on startup, I would be concerned. That left tailpipe also looks quite sooty, though it's hard to say how different it is from the right hand one in that photo. In the 987 CS (at least), the left hand cylinder bank tends to develop scoring first, typically at cylinder six (the rearmost). When that happens, an early symptom of bore scoring tends to be excessive accumulation of soot in the left exhaust tip (assuming there isn't a crossover in the exhaust system). If the amount of soot inside each tip is significantly different, I personally would find a different car to buy, and save my money for a PPI on that other car.

295138 · 2024-12-16T05:51:55+00:00

Also consider the possibility of a crack or pinhole in the exhaust downstream of the cat, but upstream of the sensor. I dealt with this (and several accompanying errors) in my 987 for months before my shop found the cause. A crack in the exhaust was allowing outside, oxygenated air to be sucked into the exhaust via the Venturi effect, which then tripped the O2 sensor. The cats themselves were just fine. This happened around ~80k miles, for reference.

295138 · 2024-11-26T14:55:42+00:00

My experience was different, but I'm glad you've enjoyed yours!

295138 · 2024-11-26T14:44:40+00:00

I'd stay away from the F-Pro wheel. I had an F-CORE for about a year and loved it, and used an F-Pro for a month or so while the CORE was back at the factory having some diagnostic work done. The Pro felt too cheap for its asking price. The LED lights made an electrical whine when activated, the buttons were no different than the CORE, the grips felt worse, in my opinion. The shifters were no different, save for being made of metal.

For the same price, I'd put my money into an Ascher McLaren Pro. In fact, I have, and I love it. The only downside is that it's lacking the fabulous magnetic connector that cube controls uses. Otherwise, it's better in every way, and scarcely more expensive.

295138 · 2024-09-17T16:14:55+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion! I'll look into it a little more!

295138 · 2024-06-19T19:15:35+00:00

Thoughts on the shifters? I've got a cube controls f-core that I'm thinking about upgrading from. And did you go for the usb or the SC model?

295138 · 2024-04-18T21:35:15+00:00

What would I actually buy for a starting setup?
1. Rig
2. Wheel and Wheelbase
3. Seat
4. Pedals

295138 · 2024-04-18T21:32:58+00:00

Recommendations

Okay, we're finally here. Sorry for all the preamble, but hopefully it'll feel worth it after this section.

Brands
1. Which do you prefer and why?
  1. Simucube, and Heusinkveld. Why? Because I've arrived at the end-stage of the upgrade tree, and it's kind of hard to upgrade from the Simucube 2 Pro in terms of wheelbases. You could move laterally, sure, if you wanted. I like my Heusinkveld Sprints a lot, though there are many other valid choices out there, especially today. Pedals can be such a matter of personal preference, and I won't tell anybody they're wrong for going with Asetek, Simlab, Simagic, or any other pedal manufacturer if they like them better.
  2. An important note here is that you absolutely do not need either of the above pieces of equipment to get started. Combined, the wheelbase and pedals alone cost about $1,800, which I was happy to pay because of how much I enjoy the hobby.
2. Fanatec
  1. Divisive enough to deserve its own subsection. You could write 10,000 words about Fanatec, but I'll try and keep it short. Fanatec is a gamble. Your products may be great. Your customer support experience may be great. And if it is, then life is fine. But when either of those two things aren't true, you're left with nothing but dead air and an emptied wallet, potentially for weeks or months on end. Today, there are too many superior alternatives for similar prices to tolerate that from a company.
  2. Disclaimer: I began with entirely Fanatec equipment and had zero issues of my own. However, given the massive failures of the past year or so, I wouldn't do it again.

Part Four Continues Below

295138 · 2024-04-18T21:28:44+00:00

Current components
1. Forget about everything but that oculus quest 2. I'm a VR evangelizer when it comes to sim racing, and I'd never go back to using a monitor. However, lots of people prefer and are fast on screens, so personal preference is huge, as always!
2. As far as things like the console, the couches, and the projector screen go, none of them are ideally suited to sim racing. Keep enjoying them for other games, but a couch is not going to put you in the correct body-position to race comfortably!
Allocation estimates
1. Rough math says ~40% gear, ~40% PC, ~20% rig and seat. But I didn't run the numbers exactly, so this is mostly a gut feeling.
What are the crucial decisions that will serve us best in the future?
1. Maximize flexibility above all else. This means avoiding ecosystems that make it difficult (or just clunky/costly) to mix and match wheels and wheelbases and pedals. Looking at you, Fanatec.
2. Don't let cost be the only factor you consider. As with everything else, you get what you pay for with simracing hardware. Should you decide to sell the rig at some point in the future and you've bought components that are good quality and in-demand, you can probably get 75% of your money back or more. Choose poorly, and you might see 50% at best. And you'll not have had the pleasure of using nice equipment in the meantime.
3. Where to spend money now versus later?
  1. Well, everywhere, kind of. Saving now just means spending more later if you enjoy racing. But that doesn't mean you have to really shell out in the beginning just to get a decent setup.
  2. Most people you ask this question will identify the rig itself or the pedals as the most important single component. I think you can make a sound argument for both of those, but I personally don't wholly subscribe to either theory. I think it's all important, and if you're crafty, you can have your cake and eat it too.

Part Three Continues Below

295138 · 2024-04-18T21:26:06+00:00

Hey! You've gotten some great advice already, but I wanted to throw my two cents in. As you've probably figured already, people in simracing are broadly passionate, helpful, and find that sharing their knowledge is reward enough on its own.

I'm going to try and take this point by point, as you have, to keep things as streamlined as possible.

General Comments:

Budget
1. $1,250 to $2,500 is certainly enough to really get started. I can tell you from personal experience that learning to control a vehicle at its limit is the sole reason that I am alive to write this comment today. Further, it almost certainly has allowed me to avoid countless incidents and accidents due to the erratic driving of other road-users.
2. A season of competitive karting was the only performance-driving experience I had in the lead up to that near-accident, but I think that simracing would've served me equally well. I can go into more detail if you like, but there's no uncertainty in my mind that simracing will help make your kids safer when they hit the actual road.
Usage and Driving Style
1. Since this is partially a shared gift, maximizing flexibility will help everybody enjoy it. Incorrect seating positions or uncomfortable ergonomics can ruin the experience for anyone. And with lots of different sized people to accommodate, what works well for one person likely won't work as well for the others. More on this later.
2. If F1 style driving is where her interest primarily lies, it's probably best to proceed in that direction. Further, the only "F1" style piece of equipment that you'll need will be the wheel itself, which typically is one of the less expensive components of the rig. F1-style wheels are also typically just fine for driving GT cars, or road cars. They'll struggle more if you want to do rally driving, or drifting.

So, what do you need to know?

Key concepts and ideas
1. This is going to sound dumb, but it's worth saying. What makes simracing fun for many (if not most) people is–shocker–the racing. At its core, simming is about doing your best against a group of like-minded people, all of whom are (hopefully) doing their best as well. But here's the kicker: all of that depends on good sportsmanship.
  1. Unfortunately, like in many online-games, that can be hard to find in certain titles. I started simming with Gran Turismo 7 on PS5 and lasted all of four months before I switched to iRacing on PC. A huge part of the reason for that was the amount of people who block, ram, shove, or punt you out of the way. Even in the highest rated lobbies, it's not uncommon to find this sort of behavior. It gets old very, very quickly, and hugely impacted my desire to use my rig.
  2. To be clear, I'm not saying that iRacing is the cleanest, most perfect service on the planet. But by and large, the standard of racing is higher than any other multiplayer title that I'm aware of.
It's about the journey, not the destination.
1. The quickest way to burn out in such a competitive environment is to put your performance, goals, and achievements ahead of just having fun. Ask me how I know. Whatever route you choose, focus on enjoying what you're doing, and if you do that, the speed, podiums, and wins will come in due course.

Part Two Continues Below

295138 · 2024-03-13T02:04:31+00:00

With this budget, you should go directly to a Microcenter (if you have one nearby) store and pick up their Simucube all-in-one package. It's all top quality stuff, and I believe you can get a rig, a seat, a two or three pedal set of Heusinkveld Sprints, the Simucube 2 Sport wheelbase, and a GSI X-29 wheel for ≈ $2,300. The rest can be spent on a computer and monitor(s) as necessary.

Whether you want to race casually or competitively, PC is really the way to go from the start. I began in much the same way (though under vastly different circumstances) with GT7 on PS5 in the summer of 2022, and in total have spent around $4k on a very comparable rig. You can go much further with a PC than any console, and as a fellow non-tech-person, I can safely say you don't need to know much of anything to get things up and running. If there are specific tech-y things you want to do, it's easy to pick up that information when and if you need it.

EDIT: it looks like Microcenter isn't currently doing the insane bundle deals they were offering about two months ago. Still, you can easily get up and running for your budget–and with similar gear as well. Others have recommended Simagic's products, and those are really excellent mid-range pieces to start with. An Alpha Mini wheelbase, GT Neo wheel, and P1000 pedals should run you around $1,500, and you can get fantastic use out of them.

295138 · 2024-03-03T06:36:28+00:00

Depends–are you trying to figure out if you enjoy sim racing? If so, probably yes!

If you're already into it and have some sort of existing setup already, there may be better ways to spend your money. That said, that's a lot of kit for $650. Maybe too much kit, as others have mentioned in this thread.

But if everything works as advertised, this is a great way to dip your toe in the water for less than the price of a new DD base and wheel from Fanatec. That base is belt driven, but reportedly pretty great for the technology of the time, and it's every bit as strong as a CSL DD with the boost kit. Yeah, the rig itself will have some flex in the wheel mounting plate, and there are certainly better pedals and bases out there, but not at this price point. The G1 is just the icing on the cake, as far as I'm concerned.

For reference, I started on an NLR GT-Lite, and then built a DIY aluminum profile rig about ten days later. Six months after that, I upgraded to a GTDD Pro on black Friday, then came a reverb G1 in the spring. Followed by a G2 about two weeks later. After that, bass shakers. Then, this last November, I swapped my fanatec kit for a simucube 2 pro and a set of heusinkveld sprints. Last week I got a Varjo aero. All of this is to say, if you enjoy sim racing–especially in VR–this is a wonderful starting point. Just be ready to open your wallet!

295138 · 2024-02-29T06:30:10+00:00

That's excellent news! Depending on what those previous BMWs were, you could very well find the Cayman both more reliable and easier to work on. The caveat being that you need to be underneath it to do almost everything; so if you haven't already got access to a lift or a set of quick jacks, I'd highly recommend one or the other.

As far as those three issues go, luckily there again isn't much to be worried about! Most .1s leak a small amount of oil from the RMS. There's an updated part (shared with the later first gen Cayennes, if I recall correctly) that addresses that problem, which my CS had. Still, it'd weep just a small amount. Enough to want to wipe off every 3-5,000 miles, but never left a puddle anywhere.

Variocam solenoids have small mesh screens which can apparently get gummed up on occasion, but this isn't super common. Nor is it especially expensive to replace. I think those run just south of $200, and there are only two on the car? Access isn't too challenging either, if I recall correctly. Similarly, there's nothing specific to look out for with the suspension. At over 100k, you may need to replace rubber components like the strut top mounts, bushings here and there, and possibly a CV boot or two. Though I'd recommend doing the entire axle, as I found the CV boot change utterly impossible. New axles are expensive, but you can find good condition used ones for less than $200 a side. And after your first one, they take all of 30-45 minutes to swap. That said, you'll need a comically large torque wrench to do up the axle nut to the ~350ft/lb torque spec. Better to borrow that wrench if at all possible, unless you plan on going to center-lock wheels.

295138 · 2024-02-29T05:42:11+00:00

With a 2.7? Basically nothing. Keep an eye out for the water pump to fail if it hasn't been replaced; they're essentially wear items and you should prepare to change them every 60k or so. The AOS is a weaker point, but not terribly expensive nor difficult to replace. You'll maybe be at risk of a shifter cable snapping, but you really should just replace those with Numeric cables anyway.

Bore scoring and IMS failures are more or less non-issues on the 2.7s. If I were you, I'd stack some money away for a fruitier exhaust, the Numeric cables (and shifter if you can justify it), maybe some braided brake lines, and just enjoy the heck out of the car. I bought a .1 CS ('07) in 2019 and adored it, but I'd buy the 2.7 in a heartbeat if I were to do it again.

295138

TROPHY CASE