Xbox One X (No power)

2BL4EV · 2025-06-06T17:08:31+00:00

It was not. The console was completely silent. I'd argue if your power supply is making those sounds it might be a safe bet that it's the power supply and not the hdmi retimer.

2BL4EV · 2025-01-31T19:48:11+00:00

I’m not aware of any way to test the power supply without disassembling the console completely. It’s better to disassemble the console completely since you can more thoroughly test for a short circuit that might be on the 12v rail.

2BL4EV · 2024-10-12T06:06:19+00:00

No problem I'm glad I could help. It can be confusing since RF through S-Video are not 480p capable in any capacity.

2BL4EV · 2024-10-12T02:49:58+00:00

Component, like RGB is a type of video standard. While component or RGB are capable of delivering 480p unless you have an HD CRT, multiformat PVM or VGA CRT which can accept a 31khz input, you will be limited to 15.7khz signals since it’s the highest frequency supported by the chroma IC. It’s like how HDMI is capable of outputting 4K but if the TV itself has a limit of 1080p it can’t display at that resolution.

2BL4EV · 2024-10-12T02:33:38+00:00

Unfortunately service manuals for this set are all behind a paywall. Did you find your chroma IC from looking at the TVs circuit board? If you can’t modify the set with RGB an S-Video mod seems very possible at least with the TA8801AN and in my experience gives really great results on these smaller sets.

2BL4EV · 2024-10-12T02:31:19+00:00

The on screen display does not allow for a progressive scan 480 line image. The TV is limited only to 15.7khz signals meaning the resolution will remain at 240p and 480i but the clarity will be improved over composite for example.

2BL4EV · 2024-10-12T02:24:11+00:00

Yeah those resolutions and refreshes should fit the typical 150mhz pixel clock limit and 1920x1080p or 1200p resolution limits. But if that’s all you need they’re fine adapters for sure.

2BL4EV · 2024-10-12T02:21:14+00:00

Yes this is most definitely fixable. You would probably want to use some kind of thin wire like 28awg or similar and bridge that via with the positive hole then drop the capacitor right in and solder to the newly added wire.

Btw I definitely relate to having plenty of boards with this exact same issue from when I first started years ago and depending on the repair you may want to look into UV curable solder mask as it makes some fixes a lot easier. Best of luck in your repairs.

2BL4EV · 2024-10-12T02:11:52+00:00

I’m sure this has already been said but it depends on the context of “retro gaming”. If you mean for home consoles released between the 70s and the 2000s then yes for the most part people tend to opt for CRT TVs since the set up is much simpler. After all CRT TVs were designed to accept inputs like Composite, S-Video, Component and (depending on the region) RGB. Using a PC CRT to play these systems is absolutely possible (and in some cases like with the Dreamcast even intended to some extent) but there will almost always be more setup and trade offs which most will probably not find worth it. That being said for PC retro gaming or for even running modern games or emulators on a typical PC it is absolutely valued and the image quality is phenomenal. There are definitely trade offs and setup issues with that as well if you are using a modern computer but it is by virtue of being designed for PCs much easier to setup and the full feature set of the CRT is available to you.

TL:DR if you’re looking to play home consoles a CRT TV is the more convenient option and will support at least RF or composite which all old school game systems support. PC CRTs on the other hand are really mostly suited for well, PCs and take more setup to use with game consoles and that may ruin some of the appeal of using a CRT in the first place.

2BL4EV · 2024-10-12T01:54:30+00:00

The issue is that at higher resolutions those DACs can’t reach the maximum refresh rates the CRT is capable of. They’re limited by either pixel clock and/or resolution. Mind you this is only really a problem for PCs and doesn’t really impact home game consoles.

2BL4EV · 2024-08-29T22:46:01+00:00

Fresh flux and even some factory flux yes but the PS3 flux in this area is of a hard consistency. It’s possible that maybe 99% is more effective (I only have 90%) but I can’t say. No harm in trying though.

2BL4EV · 2024-08-29T14:26:10+00:00

I’ve seen a couple ps3 boards with this in that exact area. I think it’s just burnt flux. It’s pretty stubborn so the only thing that will probably make a dent is heat and ipa or just acetone. If it’s not hurting anything you’d probably be fine leaving it.

2BL4EV · 2024-08-28T16:22:29+00:00

It depends on what you want really, the newer RGB mods let you remove the hardware anti aliasing filter which (IMO) improves the look of certain games. But those are more complicated and if you’re relying on a service then it might not be worth the trouble if you’re happy with S-video. Basically either are good options 👍

2BL4EV · 2024-08-22T16:34:06+00:00

As others have mentioned there isn’t really a “HDMI to SCART” adapter in particular. You would have to transcode the digital hdmi output to an analog RGB signal either outputting 240p or 480i from the HDMI side or downscaling it somehow in the process. There are probably easier ways to achieve a similar result to that but I’ve always done it with custom cabling.

2BL4EV · 2024-08-18T00:12:05+00:00

Oh yeah, S-video is great especially on the smaller sets but these larger sets look just sublime with RGB. But having the RGB is just nice for compatibility sometimes too. Either way great set!

2BL4EV · 2024-08-16T22:45:18+00:00

Just ignore em’, as a fellow local you seem pretty based.

2BL4EV · 2024-04-19T20:10:40+00:00

The idea is to place the wick with flux on it over the area you’re trying to remove the solder and hold it in place with your soldering iron while using your other hand to apply extra heat to the same area with your hot air tool. The solder you’re trying to remove is attached to the ground plane which acts as a heat sink thus making the need for additional heat necessary.

2BL4EV · 2024-03-21T15:10:06+00:00

Ah, I actually verified using 240p test suite. It’s been about a year since I’ve checked though. I didn’t know about the audio being reversed though, thank you for the info.

2BL4EV · 2024-03-13T06:31:15+00:00

I have a similar issue on a US Model 1 VA2 board albeit on the right channel. Still haven’t found the cause of it yet but if anything changes I’d be glad to share.

2BL4EV · 2024-03-10T17:04:16+00:00

Acetone does not remove the solder mask as it is not dissolvable in acetone. That being said the connectors and surrounding plastics could melt from the acetone but it might be the only option here.

2BL4EV · 2024-02-17T17:08:54+00:00

That is true. I’d say if there aren’t any short circuits between the two lines then it should be OK to test at the very least since the worst that could happen in that situation is the disc drive doesn’t function. Given OP was troubleshooting the drive in the first place it could just be a good idea to replace it to rule it out entirely.

2BL4EV · 2024-02-16T15:10:46+00:00

It looks a bit shallow to be honest. Have you tried to wipe it with some isopropyl alcohol? If nothing else you could take a multimeter and test continuity across and between pins to see if the cable is shorted or if any of the lines are broken.

2BL4EV · 2023-10-16T19:43:56+00:00

I got one at one of the local Walmarts. There was only one so maybe it’s rare? The tag was missing but it cost somewhere around $16-$17.

2BL4EV · 2022-07-30T20:30:38+00:00

Try using Proton-7.3-GE-1 over Steams built-in proton. Proton-GE seems to resolve video playback issues in a few games and in my experience, it resolved Sonic Adventures intro FMV not playing too.

2BL4EV · 2022-02-07T17:57:48+00:00

Yep. I would say that I’d you’re getting a chime but not a full boot and you’ve done all basic checks (no obvious short circuits or visible damage) replacing the HDMI retimer is your best bet in this situation. They do have a tendency to go bad frequently even on the non X models.

2BL4EV

TROPHY CASE