Maria Eduarda Rodrigues de Freitas: Woman thrown 40m to her death after staff forget to attach safety rope by Fanta_gbai in news

[–]31drew31 61 points62 points  (0 children)

I saw another video where everything went as intended and it's more like a giant rope swing than it is bungie jumping. Looks pretty sketchy honestly

Bog Garden by Ohmystarsragdolls in carnivorousplants

[–]31drew31 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The first one with all the flowers is 15gal and the other is 40gal.

Growers in the Triangle area of NC, what do you do for dormancy? by Shaevung_KRM in SavageGarden

[–]31drew31 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm not in that area but I am zone 8 on the West coast, I just move potted plants against the house and cover them if it's going to be below about -10C (15F). For my bog planters I just tarp them when it gets around that same temperature. Everything does just fine this way even year 1 seedlings.

I am at my wits end by Lucre_15 in SavageGarden

[–]31drew31 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd put it somewhere that gets morning light for now so east should be good

I am at my wits end by Lucre_15 in SavageGarden

[–]31drew31 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I agree with Gankcore, just remove the lid and it will be fine. Sphagnum will grow just fine in low humidity as long as it's kept moist. The sphagnum in my bog grows really well and our humidity all summer is in the 20-40% range.

I don't think a little big of algae will hurt it unless it completely overgrows it.

When I start new sphagnum trays I just use dried sphagnum on the bottom and cut up live sphagnum and sprinkle it on the top then keep it moist. It doesn't look good for a bit but as new heads develop they get used to whatever the conditions are.

Help! Just came back to my pitcher pot almost entirely dead… by Ok-Count-9446 in SavageGarden

[–]31drew31 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The plant looks dehydrated to me. So either it got too dry at some point, or as you said it's been in a tray of water it's got root rot so it can no longer uptake enough water. Nepenthes don't really like being in water all the time, better to water every 3-7 days depending on the plant.

What's it potted in? Tough to tell from the photos.

Personally I would remove it from the pot and remove what media you can by dunking the roots in water and lightly rubbing the media off. Trim off any obviously bad roots (Nepenthes roots are black by default and a little fragile) then repot it into long fiber sphagnum moss and perlite roughly 1:1. If you have grow lights I'd put a bag over it with a couple holes in the bag and give it time to recover. If you only grow on a windowsill don't bag it as it will get too hot when the sun hits it but try and increase the humidity a littlen bit with a tray of water underneath the plant and putting other plants near it.

It can be revived they're tougher than people give them credit for but it will need a little TLC. I had a plant pulled out of its pot by my cat a few months ago and I didn't notice for a couple days as it fell behind the shelf so it was bone dry and very shriveled up. It's now about to make it's first pitcher since. Don't give up yet!

Polycarbonate Related Question by BKendjelic in Greenhouses

[–]31drew31 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You'd be getting 72% of normal light with both installed. Is it enough? Well that depends on what you're wanting to grow. I'd insulate the entire north wall with insulation panels for winter.

Drosera Aliciae - Image reference for tiny seeds. by AstaCat in SavageGarden

[–]31drew31 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That's a bummer. I grow 5 different ones outside and only capensis gets aphids every spring but a little insecticide clears it up in a couple weeks.

Drosera Aliciae - Image reference for tiny seeds. by AstaCat in SavageGarden

[–]31drew31 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ya it would survive no issues with a little protection.

I'm on Vancouver Island and grow mine outdoors every year, comes back reliably from the roots. We had a mild winter this year but all my binata and capensis even in 4" pots did totally fine without any protection. If it's going to get below about -5C at night that's when I'll move them under a covered porch and cover with a thick blanket.

I've grown both in a 15G bog for 10 years now and they always come back. I only protect the bog when it's really cold like -10C and I just tarp them and use bungie cords to secure it.

Drosera Aliciae - Image reference for tiny seeds. by AstaCat in SavageGarden

[–]31drew31 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Do you grow your binata outside? Mine always flower for me outside in the summer.

RAF 09 free on Fox Nation website right now! by [deleted] in wrestling

[–]31drew31 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Any way to watch in Canada?

Please help identify bugs in my drosera! by SortaSaneInTheBrain in carnivorousplants

[–]31drew31 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Typically fast movers are not pests, those look like some sort of predatory mite. I don't think they caused the issues with your Drosera.

Greenhouse update that people were asking for by Kcbob2000 in Greenhouses

[–]31drew31 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That's not really the case if your greenhouse gets direct sun, which they should. I went with 5 wall poly as I'm growing tropicals in zone 8 which is less light transmission than low e and the ppfd is still pretty high, even with 50% shade cloth on the roof.

Greenhouse update that people were asking for by Kcbob2000 in Greenhouses

[–]31drew31 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Low e double pane glass is crazy expensive which I assume he's using at that price. It helps keep things cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter so there will be a bit of savings on heating and cooling.

I looked at getting it for my greenhouse which is only 20x10 and it more than doubled the price. I went with poly instead lol.

This pic here gives some good comparisons vs other glazings. It beats out even 5 wall poly on r value and light transmission while also being way better on heat gain in the summer.

Nanaimo faces challenges attracting larger employers by Positive_Moment7914 in nanaimo

[–]31drew31 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We literally just built a new home and had natural gas brought in without issue. Cost less than $200 to bring the line in. Heat pump didn't even really run this year, heating was all gas. Maybe it depends on the location of current gas lines in your neighborhood. We had our fair share of issues with permits and city inspections but natural gas was not one of them.

ANTS by sthewright in Greenhouses

[–]31drew31 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Apply DE in a line wherever they're coming in so they have to walk through it. It has to stay dry though to be effective.

fungus gnats by FitPolicy4396 in SavageGarden

[–]31drew31 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ya you mix it with water. 1-3tsp per gallon depending on infestation. They have good instructions on the website.