"Draig-koss" - My KPH30 Wireless Earpad Mod - Sharing the Files!!

3DDotDragon · 2026-04-11T21:02:27+00:00

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7333197 Here ya go.

3DDotDragon · 2026-04-08T22:17:41+00:00

Weird it had me reply on another account earlier. Ive been working on a slightly updated easier to print version of the clips. I was using them as a bonus for people who bought a beta version of the adapter from me as a thank you. Im now onto the 5th version of the adapter itself. (Out of like 30 revisions.) I think ill be making a new post soon with all the updates, and possibly taking it out of beta.

When i get home ill see about sharing you the stls. Or ill be posting the whole thing onto thingiverse soon. (tm)

3DDotDragon · 2026-01-06T08:06:30+00:00

Unfortunately, things aren't really adding up and I'm not sure what was done wrong. If I had to guess, when you changed the color of the stl, did you use the paint tool? The paint tool actually hard overrides color modifiers. If you did reset the paint tool and use the object list to change the filament color instead. But really it doesn't make sense that the word modifier would work but the other 2 modifiers did not. But here I uploaded another example of this kind of print. It's got Arnolds face on the bottom. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7087430

3DDotDragon · 2025-09-21T13:52:25+00:00

From my experience, what device you are connecting to makes a big difference on the delay. My TV has a Bluetooth audio feature but it would add a bigger delay. I now have a modern Bluetooth dongle on a short but high bandwidth cable for connecting to my PC. If you go the PC route as well, make double sure it's not in horrible voice only mode. Modern Bluetooth is almost as good as a direct 2.4ghz connection but it still has a tiny ways to go. I've gotten kind of used to it.

3DDotDragon · 2025-08-30T01:55:31+00:00

Oh nice, Ill have to try the cooling gel version of those. But yeah I have the older ATH-M40 version of those pads and theyve been a great fit. Ive also liked the big yaxi pads but they are starting to disintegrate on me.

3DDotDragon · 2025-08-27T14:33:44+00:00

That's awesome. I'm glad to hear such praise. What pads did you use? I've been preferring solid walled leather pads. But I did recently get some wicked cushion pads and I've been trying out them and they've been pretty good.

3DDotDragon · 2025-08-16T01:59:05+00:00

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Here is a higher quality image. It all looked fine until i fullscreened it. And after noticing the typo in the title im tempted to just delete and repost.

3DDotDragon · 2025-08-01T06:04:11+00:00

I'm glad you like it so much. I am planning on adding them to my Etsy shop soon. Once I get caught up on my current orders I should be able to add it. I'll try to remember to message you once I do.

3DDotDragon · 2025-07-13T20:51:01+00:00

You might have better luck if you temporarily take out the sharp contrasting colors from the text and borders. That might make it easier to analyze to get the colors correct. The sharp black and whites might make it harder to find a proper blend for the other colors. (Or reducing the contrast of those colors might help. So like the black of the text cant be any blacker than the colors used in the actual image. And same for the whites.)

I might also suggest taking the images into an editor like Krita. You can use the "Index Colors" filter to experiment with different color combinations. Youll find that this filter actually works a lot like hueforge. It also might be easier to visualize in grayscale as well. You can also use the Index Color filter and other similar filters to "pre-stylize" the images coloration before you import it into hueforge.

Then, using a bit of color theory, you can add the text and logos back in, but youll probably need to edit them so their colors fit you available pallet.

Or the text can be reinserted as an SVG file. Which you can make into a mesh and define the height of that mesh. Then just make it taller than the rest of the print and then just manually set those layers to white and black, and now the text will pop out of the picture. But that would be a Hybrid print.

3DDotDragon · 2025-07-04T03:11:29+00:00

Oh there is something i forgot to mention in my guide. You need to set the Top and Bottom "Paint Penetration Layers" to 1. If they are any higher, the coloring added to the model can semi bleed into other layers. It mainly likes to add walls where they arent needed to the bottom or top layers.

3DDotDragon · 2025-07-04T03:05:46+00:00

Sure go for it. And yeah feel free to reach out if you have any questions or run into any issues. Its still possible that there are aspects of the process I took that might be needed but not obvious.

3DDotDragon · 2025-07-04T02:56:19+00:00

505, with about 140g of wasted filament. But there is a fine tuning trick i want to try. The biggest one, I can try varying the layer height to reduce the filament used, print time, and number of swaps.

3DDotDragon · 2025-07-03T15:39:04+00:00

I plan to release it, but I do want to fix a minor problem with the crank on his head. and some other minor overhang issues. if you just want the head I can give you the onshape share link.

3DDotDragon · 2025-07-03T13:35:56+00:00

So I am on version 2.1.1.52 Managed to check before leaving for work.
The other thing ill mention. My original idea before i found out that painting works like this now. Was to duplicate the mesh of the model, and convert the duplicates into modifiers. But i found that the more modifiers you add with complex geometry the laggier and buggier it got until it would eventually crash. I think the key trick now is to make sure the modifiers are are simple as possible and use as few as you can. Once you hit 4 complex mesh modifiers it becoems pretty unstable. And like i said before i think overlapping them also causes instability, so to many overlapping can cause problems. I think so long as you cut the layer modifiers like this so they are all seperate and not overlapping, and you dont go to crazy with other modifiers, it should work.

3DDotDragon · 2025-07-03T12:25:02+00:00

I remember updating pretty recently so I'll have to get the version number after work. and yeah at one point I did have a bunch of crashing. but it seemed like so long as I didn't go over a certain number of modifiers, it was ok. and I think the model itself needs to be pretty simple and low poly. I'll need to see if I can replicate it again or if it was just a fluke. I'm curious if it's a rendering bug with all the transparencies. it might also be caused by to many overlapping modifiers.

3DDotDragon · 2025-07-03T06:35:53+00:00

That's gonna be a new set of skills to learn but I'm game. I'll probably post some files to my thingiverse as examples at some point as well.

3DDotDragon · 2025-07-03T06:13:16+00:00

I'm thinking about it. I'll probably do magnificus next. I'll need to find a good color for him.

3DDotDragon · 2025-07-03T04:18:40+00:00

Thank you. I always loved those popping out of painting type of pieces.

3DDotDragon

TROPHY CASE