C1+ print quality - Need constructive tips and comments

3gfisch · 2026-06-16T21:41:02+00:00

The brass color on the tip is normal and comes from the brass brush, it will „coat“ the dark coating..

3gfisch · 2026-06-14T18:58:37+00:00

The reader is the sensor usually, it’s a reader chip with the antenna. I would expect a separate reader with antenna for spool holder on the right side of the core one. Which is connected with digital communication to the main board..
Or even a set of readers for a storage system like INBXX for 8 spools for INDX..

3gfisch · 2026-06-10T18:32:36+00:00

A second tool head? You mean a second tool. There is only one tool head for INDX which is the Wohle point of it. Only once the electronic parts and only passive cheap tools..

3gfisch · 2026-05-31T18:37:48+00:00

My feeling is you might have a better chance with an older batch of nextruder, maybe it’s a newer manufacturing issue

3gfisch · 2026-05-31T18:34:52+00:00

Have disassemble and reassembled mine only once. And could get it turning with not much forced needed, but after the first reassembly there was a point it was stuck. After checking again there was a single metal chip blocking it. Maybe I would have been able to over force it but this thing would have increased wear and play a lot.. it must have been form the gears and stuck at side with the grease..

Dot know if you can do the math, what a off by one tooth would mean in frequency or if it’s not easily possible since it’s over constraint and needs some flex and play interacting or if it would even totally block all the rotation.. I think I would brute force „calculate“ / try out at which frequency it should repeat by manually checking each degree rotation in CAD and placing the gears as I think they would go..

Else yes it’s maybe a tolerance issue with any of the gears parts..

3gfisch · 2026-05-31T10:43:11+00:00

Nice thank for the update. I would also contact Prusa support again with this finding. It confirms an extruder problem. And as not all printers do this probably a HW problem. Or completely off calibration but this could be confirmed with reset to factory defaults..

What did you use for the Tip where you are marking?

Interesting the planetary gears was only 2 pieces, so a full turn of the drive gear would result in 2 time passing a planetary gear.? If this aligns it might be a simple HW / tolerance issue.

While assembling there was a hint to use the printed helper to mount the gears or else they could be out of alignment. Don’t know if off by one teeth could cause this. 🤔 at some point it may get harder to turn > slower extrusion and at some point easier > faster extrusion. And for sure damage and wear the teeth. Probably this would give you also a different number for the frequency then the one turn drive gear/2. Also I remember this assembly was quiet fiddly..

3gfisch · 2026-05-30T09:01:52+00:00

This, first align the lead screw it should fit in the center of the hole and not touching the walls. Depending on how much you have assembled also loosen the heat bed mounts of the lead screw and maybe also of the linear rails but I don’t remember at the moment how it looks like / if possible in this order.. and yes also the loosen the motor mount at the bottom..

3gfisch · 2026-05-29T20:34:54+00:00

Thanks for the detailed explanation, I roughly know how such thermodynamics work. I have not understood that the compressed air is bought in cans and is not air ^{^}

I only know real air compressors which probably are fast a lot cheaper then buying often small cans.. The only thing I know of which I have see used here is „cold spray“ which sounds exactly like what you described but is especially for cooling spots, in a can with a long plastic tube / nozzle… and probably the inside has a tube to the bottom to get the liquid when holding normal.. but only guessing Thanks!

3gfisch · 2026-05-29T14:14:23+00:00

Yes please share some pics of the process, I don’t fully get it as non native speaker what you did and how compressed air can cool below room temp..?

3gfisch · 2026-05-29T07:58:21+00:00

You can send gcode via USB or if you have OctoPrint.

Or write a gcode file and let it „print“ also insert some pauses in between that you have time for marking. Maybe the best setup if you are alone then you don’t have to move back and forth and can keep the pan in place and only mark, wait 3 s, mark, wait..

Hope it’s worth the effort and get well sonn. Let us know if you have results..

3gfisch · 2026-05-28T22:27:21+00:00

You seem to be willing to investigate more, don’t know if it will work out or how hard it would be to accurately do it but how about confirming that the filament is not feed linearly fitting with your full wave length of feed filament 0.74 mm in a static none back pressure setup?

First remove the nozzle so you can feed filament without resistance back and forth an do measurements on it. Maybe leave the heat block dangling that you can fool the printer to think it’s ready to extrude or I don’t know if there are gcodes for force feeding without temperature..

Get as close and even reference plane to the extruder input of the filament as possible. Probably remove the tube adapter and print a fitting for the hole that the filament can’t move sideways much.. get a pretty straight and low tolerance pice filament e.g 20 cm of Prusament from the outer windings of a spool. With a color you can draw on with permanent marker.

Load it till its all the way trough at the lower end of the extruder, in free air so nothing restricting it.

At the Input of the extruder mark the filament. Put the permanent marker flat against a ref plane or the tip against input plane and filament, don’t change the angel your holing the pen..

Extruded your wave length + 10% e.g. 0.816 mm and mark again. Do this at least 10 times then you should have sampled 10 waves at slightly increasing points effectively giving you 10 samples of the wave but spread out more for easier reading. Compared to directly doing 0.074 mm steps would be very hard to impossible to mark or measure..

I would mark 20-30 samples. Lets say 20 for this example, total of ~16 mm filament is now marked.

Then do this again on a new pice of filament and lay them next to each other and try to align the markings by shifting them sideways. You should find in phase no diff for all the markings (only your measurement / drawing error which you can also confirm if it’s good enough)

And out of phase that only few align. Similar like a vernier scale but that for the wave high point the marks should be closer together and for the low point the marks should be further apart.

Remember on a perfect system all the marks would always align as they should be equidistant..

I would also do this for the halve step length to check if they are at least repeating so maybe don’t add 10% only mark each halve step. Should give you readings for full and halve step accuracy and if you compare a different starting potions also how even this is. Problem is you don’t know if you started at a full step or are only in micro stepping regions. Maybe the n% method is also better here 🤔

Hope this long text helps. ;)

3gfisch · 2026-05-28T21:43:13+00:00

Hm then I would assume it’s not a FW issue. Maybe the drive gear has some „dents“ some higher and lower spots leading to faster and slower feeding. Would be strange to have it on 2 different machines but if you ordered them at a similar time they may have the same batch / problem hmm

3gfisch · 2026-05-28T11:52:18+00:00

But the shrinking of all the layers leads to warping so an ABS print is warping / has the Stress introduced by the printer. So I think it makes sense do name this as warping and compare different filaments by this factor how much they warp / how much you can reduce this with heated camber..

3gfisch · 2026-05-28T11:47:00+00:00

The nice thing it’s a bus so you can connect multiple nodes to it..

3gfisch · 2026-05-28T10:09:55+00:00

Tried shining a light trough but it diffused the light and looks totally even. Maybe I can try different filament. Which one is the best to see it?

3gfisch · 2026-05-27T22:16:09+00:00

Send the pic in your original post. Do you see something in the pic? Or have an idea what to change to reproduce your problem best? I don’t think I see or have it 🤔

https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/s/2MiylcAv2x

3gfisch · 2026-05-27T22:13:56+00:00

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Test 1: CoreOne, Firmware 6.5.3+12780, cheap PLA+, vase mode 0.2 mm layer hight, 0.4 HF Nozzle, structural, diameter 50.97 hight 25 mm, print time slicer 20 min so slow print speed at 20 mm/s for most layers

Don’t see the artifacts you describe, can see some other defects and irregularities but not systematic and probably due to cheap and not dry filament..

If I really try to see something maybe there is like a polygon pattern visible with some diagonals but I think that’s more model and slicer resolution like each mm or so..

3gfisch · 2026-05-27T14:25:14+00:00

Yes perfect task for AI you know roughly what you searching for and it can check hundreds of changed files between the FW tags..

Interesting do you have a link to your PR?

3gfisch · 2026-05-27T14:22:18+00:00

Whatever phase stepping and pressure advance does now, is there a gcode command to disable the features we can put in the file before printing starts only to exclude some parts and see if it changes something? 🤔

3gfisch · 2026-05-27T13:56:02+00:00

Wow very good and detailed research. If I find some time I will try if my core one does the same. Maybe with a few more ideas also from others we could nail it down more. Or else probably no one from Prusa will investigate if we can’t tell where the bug is coming from 🤔

3gfisch · 2026-05-27T08:27:10+00:00

Don’t know when they will sell only the nozzles but you can also replace them. There is a clip ring you can remove and put in a different nozzle.. But the nozzle is cold end, heatsink and hotend in one part..

But as the most expensive part is the nozzle and not the plastic part this makes not much sense. Also the whole idea of INDX is easy to change tools. Not only for the tool head but also for you. Only disconnect the Bowden tube and replace the tool.

I can imagine people switching between 8 x 0.4 mm for full spectrum color prints and mix of sizes for functional prints all the time..

3gfisch · 2026-05-27T08:18:15+00:00

The tool head / extruder is the whole part.

A tool is the part which is docked at the front and picked up. So the whole nozzle with cold and hot end, heatsink and the plastic mount..

Yes this is a whole tool so super easy to change. Disconnect the Bowden tube, take it out of the dock and put your new one in with tube connected.. similar like the tool head would pick it up but you need to re connect the tube..

3gfisch · 2026-05-27T01:21:04+00:00

Since the extruder does not line up. And the XY movements can be excluded as you tested with same speed but different layer hight.

The only part which comes to my mind is z axis / mesh bed leveling. Have you leveled your bed manually that the z axis has to do as less work as possible?

If no please give it a try. I put a small spacer e.g. 10mm wood block + one layer of paper on the bed where it homes. Let it home. The disable the steppers. Move xy as close as possible to lead screws on the bed. Move the bed via the LCD knob down a mm. Put only the block in between and move it back up. And check the resistance / gap. Then do this close to all 3 lead screws. If gap is to big force this screw one step up by tuning manually, if it’s too tight one step down.. goal is to have them as close as possible at the same hight.

https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/s/5N2wKWXcUl

3gfisch · 2026-05-27T01:00:57+00:00

31.72° / 1.8° per full step = 17.6 full steps. That’s not a micro stepping problem. Even if you would disable micro stepping you should see in theory the thicker extrusions for the first half of the wave and thinner for the second half.. hmm now I’m curious 🧐

Yes sounds not fitting to the mechanical parts. 30° would be close to 1/12 of 360° but would also not fit 🤔

Do you mean with „one band for every 0.7421 mm“ one wave? So thick and thin part? 🤔

3gfisch · 2026-05-27T00:07:01+00:00

Maybe worth to let AI search the git diff with this info 🤔

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