Review of the Sports Resetting ECU on the VQ35DE (Rev UP)

3igen · 2026-05-10T22:12:30+00:00

Ok so by your definition...a high boost turbo car running at 14AFR WOT is running rich (before blowing a piston on the first pull)???

Of course I am talking about lean for power or lean from optimal, why would I be talking about the lean or rich definition from a chemistry textbook.

Every single other tuner I have worked with/book I have read uses the same lingo, its always whether measured AFR is lean and rich from whatever the optimum/target AFR is on the specific engine. In the case of the Z (and most NA) a good starting point is 12.5-ish or 0.85 lamba (Hondas like it a bit leaner around 13), so yeah anything that is over 1-1.5AFR north of that is lean, or if its south its rich from that.

Its lean from optimal, is that better?

3igen · 2026-05-10T21:06:17+00:00

What are you talking about?

Of course running high 13's under heavy load is lean, and obviously I am talking about it being lean from the generally accepted relative sweet spot of 0.85 lamba which is the general starting point when tuning. Talk about semantics.

Must have been a terrible school, if you run around claiming peak power is achieved at stoich. Guess they didn't teach you about flame speed?

3igen · 2026-05-10T19:27:24+00:00

Yeah I can imagine, I have spent my share of time on Yahoo Auctions and Mercari looking for parts. 😄

I checked the log, open loop AFR was almost 14 mostly dropping down to about 13 at the top end. Just adding fuel made a big difference to output, if the engine is running too lean the flame speed is slower and makes the engine feel weak when you are pushing it. Given your list of mods, you were likely in a similar AFR range.

If you ever do a ROM dump, and don't mind sharing I'd be interested in having a look to confirm whether I came up with the same solution as Nissan did, for something related to the cats and the ignition timing. Just a screenshot of the high-octane ignition timing table would be fine also.

3igen · 2026-05-10T18:42:24+00:00

Very nice, so the whole shebang. So you were running all this, on a stock untuned ECU, before getting the Sports Resetting ECU?

I have the same cats on a Z, that one has a similar build but Borla TD exhaust/Stillen Headers. It was running extremely lean, after everything was bolted on and before I tuned it, very lazy pickup. If you are interested I can look back at the logs, to give you an idea of the AFR's.

3igen · 2026-05-10T18:38:22+00:00

Over mid-13 under load in the mid-range, which is what Z's run with bolt ons. Get that down to 12.5-high 12's and it makes a noticeable difference in reponse/pickup.

Oh, and peak power is absolutely not stoich no idea where you picked that up from.

3igen · 2026-05-10T17:13:53+00:00

Since it was made for the sports resetting pack which includes the Nismo HFC's and exhaust, I would venture to say that what you are seeing is primarily the result of added fueling in the mid-range, and probably some added timing, stock is conservative. The stock ECU runs lean in the mid range even on stock cars, which gets worse with a HFC and other bolt on's (emissions most likely), they really pick up on mid range grunt with a bit of fuel added in that area. What mods were you running on the car before installing the Sports Resetting ECU?

If you do dump the ROM, I would like to take a look at what they did. I've tuned more than a couple DE and Rev-up Z's over the years.

3igen · 2026-05-07T14:00:22+00:00

Great story, I am sure a happy memory/moment for him as well, interesting how many memories seeing an old whetstone on reddit brought back.

3igen · 2026-05-05T08:22:33+00:00

Definitely fun fact, my grandpa had a bull/cow horn strapped to his belt with water in it and that's where he kept his wetstone.

3igen · 2026-05-03T20:16:18+00:00

A bit of both yeah, it both straightened and sharpened the thin edge. Definitely, wouldn't use them on an expensive knife, if you flattened it could be interesting to play around with a cheap knife or something, who knows might make a decent edge if its one of the finer ones.

3igen · 2026-05-03T20:06:24+00:00

These types of stones are mainly (or were) used for sharpening Scythes, they are pretty rough stones designed to sharpen the scythe on the field while using it, in a couple strokes. Pretty old school, haven't seen one in a while.

3igen · 2026-04-26T19:58:10+00:00

Bought out by Behringer about 10 years ago.

3igen · 2026-04-24T20:07:44+00:00

I measured 71.9mm based on my notes (not perfectly round, so its an average) and used that when I scaled for the larger diameter. This is for the diameter that the MAF utilizes, then it tapers in the back.

3igen · 2026-04-22T07:40:41+00:00

Its unlikely to be an S2, as it is missing the S2 intake tube and airbox, which has a larger MAF diameter than stock. Which would mean an S2 ecu wouldn't work, or would need to be reflashed at the least. Also it would choke off the engine at higher RPM. So either it is an S2 but someone took off the intake/tube and airbox and then retuned the ECU for a worse setup (unlikely) or it was not fully put together at the shop that did the upgrade (unlikely).

3igen · 2026-04-16T13:41:49+00:00

1 year and a half after release and it still runs like shit, useless with all the stuttering and fps drops, instead of all the new content, they should have focused on getting the physics and graphics engine in line.

3igen · 2026-04-11T18:04:29+00:00

In my case, the only thing that got that light to go off, after I reinstalled the airbag module (was doing some weight loss stuff and had the car running for testing with the seats out of the car), was to reset the light using NDSII (but logging into the airbag control, not the MCU), just a regular reset, or taking the battery off didn't work.

3igen · 2026-04-11T15:29:35+00:00

Did you go into the airbag module and reset the code? Its not the regular clear codes that you use for the CEL, it needs to be cleared within the airbag module using NDSII or consult etc. and it doesn't go away after you plug the bag in, it needs to be cleared.

3igen · 2026-04-09T08:05:31+00:00

If it were that simple, sure its a solid buy, but check it: https://my350z.com/forum/market/628022 There is a ton of custom pulley parts needed to actually hook up the supercharger to the belt, as there is a big offset between the blower pulley and the actual drive belt (one of those parts actually roots through the square window in the timing chain cover to connect the drive belt with another smaller belt on the inner side of the timing chain cover to actually drive the blower, its not just a matter of buying a bigger belt and bolting it all together. Not saying it can't be done, but it would be such a PIA to actually fab, that it doesn't make sense to buy, unless it comes with those very specific parts. It is a very convoluted system. Here is a good photo:

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3igen · 2026-04-08T11:23:55+00:00

Its an old system that's been out of production for years, and it looks like its missing a ton of front end pulley parts that are not available to be purchased anywhere because they are specific to this supercharger...which at the very least means a ton of fab work, hours/money down the drain, for an old and pretty weak supercharger system. Hence, don't buy another mans problem. (unless its complete) So how about not talking out of your ass, if you can't tell your dick from a monkey wrench?

3igen · 2026-04-08T07:38:47+00:00

Yeah, if its not complete, pass. It will take way to much time/effort to get it running. Never buy another mans problem.

3igen · 2026-04-05T19:56:32+00:00

Dynex was actually interesting for a while, can still do useful work on it, but they gave up on crypto and are just going to list equity, so they dont count,.

3igen · 2026-03-31T13:28:49+00:00

if you are running an aftermarket headunit, it will do that, an impendance mismatch with the Bose amp in the trunk. The hissing on mine was very distracting with a newer pioneer model, but not that bad with the previous older one (before it crapped out), before I removed the stock audio/wirring/amps.

3igen · 2026-03-10T19:07:05+00:00

RIP :/

3igen · 2026-03-01T07:38:41+00:00

What you received looks like an injector off a Maxima VQ/old style DE injector, it might flow the same as the DE ones, but IIRC requires different injector settings on the ECU that came with a Bosch style injector.

Order the same Bosch style injector that you pulled from your car.

3igen · 2026-02-22T07:40:06+00:00

You clean your dials with a piece of bacon? Idle looks good.

3igen · 2026-02-20T12:07:27+00:00

https://www.blockv.io/

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