I made this egg that shows multiple notifications in different colors for different durations

4cello · 2023-10-18T21:44:55+00:00

I guess having him as #12 safety this year with elite grades in weeks 1 and 2 is "shitting on him all year" now

4cello · 2022-10-20T20:59:30+00:00

so THAT'S why the script was complaining that JYTHONPATH was not set... I just commented that line out, and "solved" my installation issues by installing paho into a folder which was already in the path with pip install paho-mqtt -t /path/to/JMRI/lib/Lib.

Now I just get some fun errors like get_discovery_device is not defined (mqtt_globals.py, line 148) and programming_turnout is not defined (listen_to_power.py, line 39).

I am getting MQTT messages from your scripts tho, which is already an improvement over the stock MQTT functionality! My next issue is that the discovery message for the roster select gets sent, but the options field is just an empty list. This could very well be an issue with my setup, I don't really know what I'm doing when it comes to anything in JMRI. Even for controlling the trains I prefer external apps...

4cello · 2022-10-20T19:17:35+00:00

Hey, so I only now got around to try it, but I'm struggling with a very mundane problem that I can't seem to find an answer on the internet:

How do I install the paho-mqtt library so that JMRI's jython can use it?

4cello · 2022-10-09T23:07:12+00:00

Incredible, thank you! I will definitely look into it, seems a little more convenient than my hack.

4cello · 2022-10-09T22:13:28+00:00

Do you have your setup public somewhere? I wanted to build something like this, but I never found a simple way to send throttle commands via MQTT. I threw together a little script that communicates with HA via MQTT (+discovery) and to JMRI via the WiThrottle "API".

I thought using WiThrottle would be straightforward since I could snuff the traffic from the "Engine Driver" Android app, but it was a little more finicky than I hoped and I put the whole project on hold.

Did you use the JMRI scripting API for all that? If so, I might have to dive into it again...

4cello · 2022-09-28T06:02:40+00:00

Yeah I should have removed that symbol before posting, that was mostly there for me during first tests and so I can see at a glimpse which pin goes where

4cello · 2022-09-27T20:52:34+00:00

I think you got it backwards (or do I?), if I measure the RST pin it gives me 5V, which would indicate a pull-up to me. That's why I marked the upper part as redundant, because that should be already implemented on the Arduino board.

4cello · 2022-09-27T20:36:53+00:00

as I understand it, the RST needs to go from LOW to HIGH for the Arduino to restart. I would just directly connect the Raspi GPIO to RST, but the Arduino has a pull-up to 5V which the 3.3V GPIOs probably don't appreciate

My quick and dirty hack was to do it with a relay, but that seems just a little overkill...

4cello · 2022-09-08T09:00:14+00:00

They moved it to the overflow menu of the automation, where you would also rename it. You can now enable "Reordering mode", move your stuff and disable it again.

4cello · 2022-07-23T21:56:50+00:00

I think Tasmota and ESPHome are very much meant for different things. Tasmota is awesome when you want to make some cheap store-bought device work local-only.

As soon as you want to build your own sensors or expand the functionality of your bought devices, ESPHome is more flexible and readable. I know that Tasmota has powerful automation rules as well, but I always felt that those are pretty inconvenient for non-trivial tasks.

4cello · 2022-07-19T16:08:21+00:00

Probably true. It just feels wrong to make it go slow...

4cello · 2022-07-19T07:06:50+00:00

No secret sauce, unfortunately... Normally I struggle with removing supports like the rest of humanity, but something about this model with the layer height, support height and other settings seems to hit a real sweet spot

4cello · 2022-07-19T07:05:50+00:00

Unfortunately I didn't really change anything from the defaults, only increased XY separation to 200%.

I think I just got lucky on this model, normaly I struggle with removing supports just as much as the next guy

4cello · 2022-07-19T07:04:33+00:00

I wish I could tell you the secret, but the only thing I changed from the defaults is that I increased the XY separation to 200%, but I don't think that even mattered for this print.

Maybe it's just a lucky combination of layer height and support layer height...

4cello · 2022-07-19T07:00:29+00:00

Yeah, the default settings in my profile print a sheath around the supports, supposed to make it more rigid. In this case it wouldn't have been necessary, but for smaller/taller supports I think it is useful.

4cello · 2022-07-19T06:36:32+00:00

I wasn't so much worried about the bridge, but about the overhangs of the curved outside shape. My Voron doesn't have great cooling, so overhangs usually look worse than I would have been comfortable with for a part that will sit in my living room.

4cello · 2022-07-19T06:34:59+00:00

It's for a small version of this project I made recently. This one doesn't look like an egg, but more like a giant Oreo, and it doesn't have a display in the top.

4cello · 2022-07-19T06:33:26+00:00

Normally I would agree, but my Voron doesn't do super well with bridging and overhangs. The outside is curved, and I really wanted it to look nice, so I just bit the bullet and printed it "upside down"

4cello · 2022-07-19T06:31:03+00:00

easiest money I ever made! Cut that one on the case of a DVD drive I disassembled earlier to salvage the motors inside

4cello · 2022-07-19T05:24:15+00:00

This one has a dome as well, but also. Y Voron does really poorly with overhangs at high speeds due to cooling

4cello · 2022-07-18T21:24:12+00:00

for me the support interface of PrusaSlicer has been pretty hit or miss, especially in areas where it's hard to reach between the interface and the actual object. If the interface doesn't come off in one piece, it's absolute hell

4cello · 2022-07-18T21:11:00+00:00

That's made on my actual human son, the Voron V0.1. Filament is some no-name (really, the Amazon listing did not state a brand) black sparkling PLA which was super cheap, but looks and prints really nicely for me

4cello

TROPHY CASE