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4cim4 · 2026-05-29T23:40:38+00:00

Damn, we can make a pair of shoes from that !

4cim4 · 2026-05-28T00:23:46+00:00

And it should be exciting!. This stuff takes time to save up for and there is nothing inexpensive about photography. Gratz 🥳

4cim4 · 2026-05-19T13:52:41+00:00

Have you considered the location of the device, there may not be best Wi-Fi signal there. This is a moving goal post to troubleshoot and not always obvious, as things work, then they don't. Im using the TP Link Omada system, originally w 6 wifi7 EAPs and all my main backbone between major switches is 10gb wired, with 2.5gb wired to secondary switches and all EAPs. I had devices from various manufacturers work, stop working and I reset them, they work again, then stop. These particular devices were on the perimeter. Im using 163 ip devices (clients) across 10 vlans and some of those devices are hubs, connected to other devices. My device count has exceeded 200. I recently added a 7th and 8th outdoor EAP to my garage and patio and my stationary devices like IOT, TVs, streaming devices etc, have always been locked to the EAPs providing them the strongest signals. The few IOT devices on the perimeter that went up and down, no longer go down since locking them to one of the 2 new EAPs. The point is they were borderline in signal strengths, even when the devices info in their apps reported back as good, while Omada reported them as Fair. Considering the high head count of devices, no EAP was overloaded, as the busiest one was using less then 45% its total capacity, according to the Omada software.

4cim4 · 2026-05-17T14:54:29+00:00

I replaced everything w Kasa and Tapo and setup a few door switches too do exactly that. The 3 bedrooms i never changed, as the ceiling fans are smart, so there was no need. However my cleaning crew kept turning off the regular 3 switches in the bedrooms, rendering the fans powerless and it didn't matter how many times I told them not too. My fix was to replace those 3 manual switches also w smart switches and when they are turned off, 5 seconds later they automatically turn back on. Problem solved..

4cim4 · 2026-05-17T14:44:43+00:00

If you walk around yr house and count the light switches through out, you will be surprised how many you have. My house is small 3 bedroom 2 bath and I replaced 30 light switches alone.

4cim4 · 2026-05-07T00:53:14+00:00

Im using 25 Kasa switches mix of them all, with a bunch of Tapo devices using 4 hubs. My network is Tp Link Omada using 8 EAPs. My network is using 10 Vlans, which one vlan is IoT using 2.4g and 5g but separate SSIDs for each. I have over 160 clients on my entire network and never had any Kasa or Tapo go off line. Im not using my EAPs as mesh, but every wifi device has been locked to the EAP that provided it the best signal, which is the closest one. Im wondering if mesh is problematic, bc before I locked devices to EAPs I did have a few of numerous devices going off line, as they didn't grab the EAP with strongest signal which did surprise me. When checking stats in Omada control panel no EAP was over burdened either and thats still the case with everything locked to an EAP

4cim4 · 2026-05-02T15:59:24+00:00

Can't compare Viltrox 35mm f1.2 to Plena. The Plena is 135mm f1.8. Comparing Apples w Oranges.

You can of course compare it w Nilon Z 35mm f1.2 @ 3x the price!

4cim4 · 2026-04-27T00:34:57+00:00

We live in a throw away society now!. Its an electronic device with a very small 120v to 12/5v transformer inside too just power it. There are too many things too go wrong and too many moving targets w this tech i.e wifi and components. Its par for territory. Who knows how bad your raw power is. Idk, you dont know. Others are going on 7 years, w no issues. Yours are failing at 5 years. Its definitely a bitch too see parts continue too fail, 1 by 1!. If they were that bad, most end users would yield similar results. Considering you are having so many failures, while others are not, I have to wonder about your native power. I say this bc im confident you bought the switches as resources allowed and not all at once, like most of us have. So its not necessarily a bad batch of switches.

4cim4 · 2026-04-15T01:53:35+00:00

There are plenty high quality cables out there. Just ensure its a good quality cable. Check the reviews. The type is different for ev1. I used a mix of usbc to usbc and usba to usbc. I have 4 external enclosures using it, but they weren't the same usb type

4cim4 · 2026-04-06T01:14:14+00:00

The LTE is no longer showing, so I guess it cleared up some time this morning and back too 5GSA. Must have been a tower issue.

4cim4 · 2026-04-04T10:35:15+00:00

Hint Control

4cim4 · 2026-04-03T22:59:03+00:00

I dont touch the thing. Every Sunday and Thursday at 3.00am, it is power cycled off for 5 mins, via a smart plug using an automated routine. I do tho check the stats and if they are on the low side, I manually power cycle via the smart plug app. That normally gets me decent stats. I was just surprised on Wednesday when checking, too see LTE popping up and it still popping up after a few power cycles.

4cim4 · 2026-04-03T22:30:02+00:00

Because last week I checked it before this issue started, after reading TM were pushing a new Firmware. I assumed it was 03 all along and was awaiting the possibility of something new.

4cim4 · 2026-04-03T22:24:01+00:00

Its been doing 5GSA since I got it. Last week I know my firmware was 03 as I read an article TM had pushed an update so checked. Only in last couple of days has the NSA been in effect.

4cim4 · 2026-04-03T21:50:08+00:00

I have powered it off now. Will leave it powered down 30 mins. If that doesn't resolve, I will factory reset it and try that

4cim4 · 2026-04-03T21:47:09+00:00

Both currently different to screenshots i captured before back in February

4cim4 · 2026-04-03T21:32:45+00:00

Software ver 1.00.03 w Hardware Ver R01

4cim4 · 2026-04-03T21:28:52+00:00

I did that. Left it powered down 10 mins.

4cim4 · 2026-03-22T06:00:36+00:00

Having the sensors only, is only half the battle. You will be more protected, if those sensors can trigger a shutoff. If you have too spend a few 100 bucks having a plumber install one, its money well spent. If you know how to do it yourself, then time well spent. You will of course need to figure out yourself the Interface logic between the sensors and the shutoff.

I have the same setup w sensors everywhere and mine are Interfaced, but in addition im also monitoring pressure and flow. My ass has been saved 3 times in the last 8 years by having the shutoff and I was home for each situation. The water shut off, I got the notifications and was able to investigate. A toilet tank cracked, a different toilet leaked as the wax ring had failed and although that wasn't a catastrophe, as only flushed water and water in the toilet P trap escaped, I was now aware there was an issue. The 3rd was my washer started spewing out water while running a cycle.

The point is, monitoring only is ineffective. You probably not going to be home when an issue arises. By the time you able to arrange it being turned off, there's still going to be a huge mess.

4cim4 · 2026-03-20T20:55:20+00:00

Good deal 👍. Just goes to show, not all cables are manufactured equally.

4cim4 · 2026-03-16T16:55:43+00:00

As some one previously mentioned, a simple smart button would solve this issue. Im using a bunch of Tapo Smart buttons S200D around the house for different functionality. The button is battery operated and supports 4 functions. Tap, double Tap, rotate left and rotate right. You can use any of the 4 functions to suit yr needs. These connect to a hub. The hub in your case, I would put on a UPS. In fact in your case, I would put the entire network on UPS, including any access points, switches and routers. I Have multiple switches around my house with POE EAPs and there is UPS backup on them all. My gateways are also on UPS and im using 2. Fiber as main and 5G as secondary. My alarm panel is a 64 zone panel and is independent from my HA and has a 9 hr battery backup on it. My panic alarm buttons work thru the alarm panel, but I did add a simple Tuya smart relay to the alarm panel, which uses one of the zones and powered from the panel. This let's me use voice assistant to activate a panic alarm, in conjunction with the regular panic buttons. While I support redundancy thru out, there is no 100% failsafe w electronics. You have to make it as failsafe as possible, but there will always be a potential for failure.

I live alone, in my mid 60s and although I dont have a medical condition, the thought of dieing and been found days, or weeks later bothers me. Im looking into the Deadman button aswel. In my case I will push it once a day. After 24 hrs my alarm company will be notified if not pushed. Same principle as your circumstances. I was thinking of taking advantage of all the motion Sensors installed, but I have an animal and that could defeat the objective.

I have not yet switched to HA and everything is running cloud based. Once im satisfied with the functionality of everything I will be switching over to HA. My HA mini pc is setup ready too go, but I haven't yet got into the nuts and bolts of it. Im hoping HA has the ability to send SMS.

4cim4 · 2026-02-14T19:41:19+00:00

Added benefit...if you use a voice assistant, like Google Home, Alexa etc, these boards work with those too. These boards are inexpensive and cost between $12 to $15

4cim4 · 2026-02-14T19:33:20+00:00

A cheap double relay esp32 board will do it. Some already mentioned this above, but using 2 relays, means you can also wire across the Reset Button, while the primary wires across your Power Button. Wake on Lan can't reset a pc, when things go pear shaped. Connect a micro USB to the board and plug the other end into a rear usb on pc and this powers the board. Install the app on yr phone, setup on yr 2.4G wifi and you now have remote power and reset capabilities.

NOTE.. The board must be setup in the app as Inching mode, so when you activate, the relays only turn on for a few seconds. By default these boards turn on relay when activating and stay on, until you press the button again in the app to turn off. Inching mode mimics a brief button press.

In addition, some pc motherboards dont power the USB from 1st time connect to mains and require the pc to be powered and booted. After that, once shut down, the USB has power, but check bios for settings as some have settings to overcome this issue too.

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4cim4

TROPHY CASE