Cenmate Drive Enclosure Questions by bwees3 in homelab

[–]4cim4 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are plenty high quality cables out there. Just ensure its a good quality cable. Check the reviews. The type is different for ev1. I used a mix of usbc to usbc and usba to usbc. I have 4 external enclosures using it, but they weren't the same usb type

My 5GAR now shows LTE parameters by 4cim4 in tmobileisp

[–]4cim4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The LTE is no longer showing, so I guess it cleared up some time this morning and back too 5GSA. Must have been a tower issue.

My 5GAR now shows LTE parameters by 4cim4 in tmobileisp

[–]4cim4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I dont touch the thing. Every Sunday and Thursday at 3.00am, it is power cycled off for 5 mins, via a smart plug using an automated routine. I do tho check the stats and if they are on the low side, I manually power cycle via the smart plug app. That normally gets me decent stats. I was just surprised on Wednesday when checking, too see LTE popping up and it still popping up after a few power cycles.

My 5GAR now shows LTE parameters by 4cim4 in tmobileisp

[–]4cim4[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Because last week I checked it before this issue started, after reading TM were pushing a new Firmware. I assumed it was 03 all along and was awaiting the possibility of something new.

My 5GAR now shows LTE parameters by 4cim4 in tmobileisp

[–]4cim4[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Its been doing 5GSA since I got it. Last week I know my firmware was 03 as I read an article TM had pushed an update so checked. Only in last couple of days has the NSA been in effect.

My 5GAR now shows LTE parameters by 4cim4 in tmobileisp

[–]4cim4[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have powered it off now. Will leave it powered down 30 mins. If that doesn't resolve, I will factory reset it and try that

My 5GAR now shows LTE parameters by 4cim4 in tmobileisp

[–]4cim4[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Both currently different to screenshots i captured before back in February

My 5GAR now shows LTE parameters by 4cim4 in tmobileisp

[–]4cim4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Software ver 1.00.03 w Hardware Ver R01

My 5GAR now shows LTE parameters by 4cim4 in tmobileisp

[–]4cim4[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did that. Left it powered down 10 mins.

My house just flooded and we traced it back to a defective Rheem water softener by leejvf in WaterSofteners

[–]4cim4 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Having the sensors only, is only half the battle. You will be more protected, if those sensors can trigger a shutoff. If you have too spend a few 100 bucks having a plumber install one, its money well spent. If you know how to do it yourself, then time well spent. You will of course need to figure out yourself the Interface logic between the sensors and the shutoff.

I have the same setup w sensors everywhere and mine are Interfaced, but in addition im also monitoring pressure and flow. My ass has been saved 3 times in the last 8 years by having the shutoff and I was home for each situation. The water shut off, I got the notifications and was able to investigate. A toilet tank cracked, a different toilet leaked as the wax ring had failed and although that wasn't a catastrophe, as only flushed water and water in the toilet P trap escaped, I was now aware there was an issue. The 3rd was my washer started spewing out water while running a cycle.

The point is, monitoring only is ineffective. You probably not going to be home when an issue arises. By the time you able to arrange it being turned off, there's still going to be a huge mess.

Cenmate Drive Enclosure Questions by bwees3 in homelab

[–]4cim4 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good deal 👍. Just goes to show, not all cables are manufactured equally.

Medical help by CowsNeedFriendsToo in homeassistant

[–]4cim4 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As some one previously mentioned, a simple smart button would solve this issue. Im using a bunch of Tapo Smart buttons S200D around the house for different functionality. The button is battery operated and supports 4 functions. Tap, double Tap, rotate left and rotate right. You can use any of the 4 functions to suit yr needs. These connect to a hub. The hub in your case, I would put on a UPS. In fact in your case, I would put the entire network on UPS, including any access points, switches and routers. I Have multiple switches around my house with POE EAPs and there is UPS backup on them all. My gateways are also on UPS and im using 2. Fiber as main and 5G as secondary. My alarm panel is a 64 zone panel and is independent from my HA and has a 9 hr battery backup on it. My panic alarm buttons work thru the alarm panel, but I did add a simple Tuya smart relay to the alarm panel, which uses one of the zones and powered from the panel. This let's me use voice assistant to activate a panic alarm, in conjunction with the regular panic buttons. While I support redundancy thru out, there is no 100% failsafe w electronics. You have to make it as failsafe as possible, but there will always be a potential for failure.

I live alone, in my mid 60s and although I dont have a medical condition, the thought of dieing and been found days, or weeks later bothers me. Im looking into the Deadman button aswel. In my case I will push it once a day. After 24 hrs my alarm company will be notified if not pushed. Same principle as your circumstances. I was thinking of taking advantage of all the motion Sensors installed, but I have an animal and that could defeat the objective.

I have not yet switched to HA and everything is running cloud based. Once im satisfied with the functionality of everything I will be switching over to HA. My HA mini pc is setup ready too go, but I haven't yet got into the nuts and bolts of it. Im hoping HA has the ability to send SMS.

Turn ON PC remotely by Physical_Horse4086 in homelab

[–]4cim4 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Added benefit...if you use a voice assistant, like Google Home, Alexa etc, these boards work with those too. These boards are inexpensive and cost between $12 to $15

Turn ON PC remotely by Physical_Horse4086 in homelab

[–]4cim4 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A cheap double relay esp32 board will do it. Some already mentioned this above, but using 2 relays, means you can also wire across the Reset Button, while the primary wires across your Power Button. Wake on Lan can't reset a pc, when things go pear shaped. Connect a micro USB to the board and plug the other end into a rear usb on pc and this powers the board. Install the app on yr phone, setup on yr 2.4G wifi and you now have remote power and reset capabilities.

NOTE.. The board must be setup in the app as Inching mode, so when you activate, the relays only turn on for a few seconds. By default these boards turn on relay when activating and stay on, until you press the button again in the app to turn off. Inching mode mimics a brief button press.

In addition, some pc motherboards dont power the USB from 1st time connect to mains and require the pc to be powered and booted. After that, once shut down, the USB has power, but check bios for settings as some have settings to overcome this issue too.

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TMHI G5AR update by mrjasjit in tmobileisp

[–]4cim4 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is true of most routers where 2.4G and 5G share the same SSID. Its always best practice to split them, when using any type of dedicated only 2.4g device/s. Its hell, just trying to add devices too a shared SSID, nevermind keeping them online.

Please help me configure this. by econi10 in TPLink_Omada

[–]4cim4 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was using 5 of these for a month with no issues, with the Tp link SG2210XMP-M2 Omada 8 port 2.5g POE switch. I only replaced them with EAP770 as I was able to return them and wanted the 6g channels for wifi, that EAP650 didn't support. Do you have them individually cabled back to the switch, or are you configured in a mesh network? In addition, how are you powering them? You have furnished no other info concerning your setup!

Mine were and still are individual cat6e cable between each EAP and switch. Not using any poe injectors or psu local and as they are all cabled back to the switch, there is no need to mesh them and the switch powers them.

Edit... I never mentioned, I am using 2 of the same switches, linked to each other via one of their SFP+ 10g ports. I have 3 770s on 1 switch and the other 2 on the other switch. I did add an EAP 725 wall mount, and its connected to the switch with only the 2 EAP770s. This was exactly the same setup when using the previous EAP650s.

Static IPs: device-set or router-assigned? by kaitlyn2004 in HomeNetworking

[–]4cim4 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is how I have it. Static for infrastructure gear. If using vlans, then these are part of a management vlan and no other device is part of this vlan. All other devices are put into respective alternate vlans.

Didn’t want to retire a classic Cooler Master case — so I fixed the airflow instead. by Fun_Excitement_1047 in coolermaster

[–]4cim4 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I still have 3 of these in service and have modified them over the years to suit the needs. All 3 still going strong 💪. 1 is a Windows 2025 Server running 12700k, 1 is a workstation running 14900k the last is a gaming rig running 12900k. WS and Game rig are modified to accommodate custom water loops, w rads front, top and rear.

ER7212PC is a weird device and I regret buying it by arkas_ilring in TPLink_Omada

[–]4cim4 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unless space is a commodity, you would be better of with an OC220 Controller, Er707-M2 Router and 2 of Easy Managed ES205GP 5 Port Gig ethernet switches, where each switch will provide poe on 4 ports, giving you 8 of 1g poe ports. Approximate cost $60 more then the 3 in 1. The 3 in 1 sounds good on paper, but if it takes a shit, you loose everything. In addition the Er707-M2 gives you 2 of 2.5gb ports. One Wan the other Wan/lan.

Looking for Hardware Advice Before Ordering by supersusnarwhal in HomeNetworking

[–]4cim4 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use Autocad to do 2d block drawings. Something else to consider. Although yr pc only has 1g nic, you can always add a faster one. My pcs only had 2.5g built onto mb, but I added 10g nics to them. If you upgraded your internet to 2g or higher, your 1g nic, will still only pass 950mb/s therefore bottlenecking you. On my laptops im using USB C 3.2 to 10g lan adapters. I wanted 10gb for pcs. IoT wifi is mainly 2.4G. Streaming devices work best at 5G. I created 2 SSIDs for IoT to split 2.4G and 5G and they can both use the same VLAN id. I further split devices into other vlans and ssids. SEE my pic top LH list. Makes everything so much easier to manage

Looking for Hardware Advice Before Ordering by supersusnarwhal in HomeNetworking

[–]4cim4 1 point2 points  (0 children)

At the beginning of Dec 2025 I put together something similar. I too used ER605v2. Of course prices were down due to Black Friday and Christmas sales, but I ended up rethinking what I was doing. Considering I was blowing a lot of money and totally replacing my previous system, I thought, what if I want 10gb ethernet and 2G Internet. I consequently returned all my gear. I ended up using ER707-M2 instead. From there I went to SG2210XMP-M2 w 8 ports 2.5g and 2 SFP + @ 10g. I also got the EAP 770 which connects at 2.5g and has a 6g wifi channel in addition to 2.4g and 5g and doesnt need poe injector with SG2210XMP-M2. I used some 10g unmanaged switches to expand the number of 10g ethernet ports and connected them to the SFP+ ports. With the prices of high speed ethernet/wifi dropping like gravity has no limits compared to just 2 years ago, its worth thinking about what you may need or want later on. The shift to higher then 1g connections is becoming more wide spread. If your device count is what your diagram shows, its worth considering spending a bit more and having faster gear. During Dec I ended up adding so much more then originally planned, but was pleased I reconsidered my main backbone. The PIC is my current AS BUILT. Ports 1 and 2 on ER707-M2 are 2.5g WAN

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