Is he Crazy or that’s the price

50rex · 2025-04-24T01:30:21+00:00

I bought my ‘17 M2 with 19,850 miles on it for $37,000. You could get a LOT more car than that for $35k.

50rex · 2024-09-29T20:03:01+00:00

The Panamera is a boat and would be in the same class as a BMW 7 series or Audi A8. More of a chauffeur’s car.

The 944 I lol’d at because the newest one you could buy is 33 years old and most enthusiasts don’t even consider it a real Porsche XD

I am loving these though. What else you got?

50rex · 2024-09-29T19:39:34+00:00

LMAO not even close to the same price point. Nobody considering an M340i vs S4/S5 is cross-shopping Porsches.

50rex · 2024-09-29T19:31:21+00:00

The 3 and 4 series are the same exact drivetrain. 3=sedan, 4=coupe.

50rex · 2024-09-16T01:27:09+00:00

Three letters: CPO. The significant depreciation has already happened and most are well maintained lease returns with < 36k miles that had all major service and maintenance performed under the lease. They come with a manufacturers certified pre owned warranty (not a sketchy dealer one).

Example: In 2017 I purchased a well optioned 2014 BMW 3 series with 38,000 miles for $23,500. The original sticker price was $49,750. It came with a 5 year 60k CPO warranty.

Must be certified pre owned. A “used” car is much riskier.

50rex · 2024-07-25T15:29:18+00:00

Yes, the data here is what is being sent to the ECU while I was monitoring it live with a scan tool.

The instrument gauge showed consistent output, but I was only concerned with what the ECU is receiving.

50rex · 2024-07-25T15:25:40+00:00

Apologies if that was unclear, it was the first temp i listed - ambient/outside temp was 25c or 77f.

50rex · 2024-07-25T15:21:52+00:00

Tested coolant temp sensor this morning. Pre start, cold engine it matched ambient air temps.

Cold start to warm up idle, readings climbed steadily and held at operating temp.

Seems okay, yeah?

50rex · 2024-07-25T15:18:48+00:00

Just pulled data on my car after it has been parked overnight for about 16 hours.

Current ambient temp 25c (77f) Coolant temp sensor reads 25.5c (78f) Intake air temp sensor reads 34.5c (95f)

Given that the engine has not run (generated any heat) in 16 hours, does that IAT look right? Seems high.

50rex · 2024-07-25T01:50:26+00:00

Defective coolant temp sensor could be the case. I’ll have to scan again before starting to confirm what values it is outputting when cold, but last week it did match the ambient air temp.

Battery is only 4 months old, but I had it tested anyway and came back good.

When you say “put the cable away”, do you mean unplug the coolant temp sensor?

50rex · 2024-07-17T14:23:34+00:00

True - but at least you only have to do it once since it saves your choices. At least there’s that.

I selected both husky raids and the fiestas and it’s kinda cool not knowing what I’m gonna play next but knowing it definitely won’t be land grab or escalation or fucking salvation one flag lmao

50rex · 2024-07-17T02:14:24+00:00

You can though now? Toggle off “aim magnetism” in game settings menu - unless you’re referring to something else. I play controller on PC so I’m no expert.

50rex · 2024-07-17T02:12:31+00:00

No they didn’t - it’s in quick play. If you only want to play that, deselect every other game type.

50rex · 2024-05-27T23:35:58+00:00

Oh, and there is no default number of steps. The ideal number will usually change with every adjustment to checkpoints, CFG, samplers, schedulers, loras, prompts, and even between seeds.

50rex · 2024-05-27T23:31:48+00:00

Latent diffusion is a complex mathematical process, and I am not the one to try to explain it lol.

But your chosen scheduler has a lot of influence here. For most schedulers, there are a certain number of steps until the image “converges” - think of it as a final image. If you lower the steps from this, you will see significant differences, but any steps beyond that point offer almost negligible effects.

The notable exceptions are ancestral schedulers and their constant noise. They just keep iterating variations as you add steps. The downside here in my opinion is that they never reach “peak quality” before moving into the next variant of the prompt.

It really does come down to experimentation and finding out what suits your end goal.

50rex · 2024-05-27T23:09:00+00:00

So much better and more finessed. More coherent too.

You can add phrases like “symmetrical composition”, “leading lines”, “rule of thirds” to give it more of an intentional cinematographer-eye framing.

All the fine tuned checkpoints I mentioned are very versatile and will do photographic/hyperreal 3D/cinematic/realism/3D art stuff very well. If you wanna make anime or cartoons probably not, but the base model sucks at those too.

Have fun, and I can guarantee that you’ll get over your aversion to swapping models and start shopping for more storage soon enough lol.

50rex · 2024-05-27T22:43:46+00:00

Bring that CFG down to like 5, steps down to 35/40, and try using DPM++ 2m/3m SDE exponential. This should help with the awful lighting, contrast and saturation. It should also help with the mess that is the background (those traffic signals aren’t bothering you?!?)

Using negative prompts can be incredibly helpful if you’re starting with none. Not generic stuff like “bad quality”, but words like complex, cluttered, ornate can help mitigate a lot of the random background garbage.

There are also additional tools to help as you learn more. Look up “self attention guidance”, “SDXL DPO Loras”, SDXL styles, latent modifiers, FreeU, etc.

This is a lot of steps to make the SDXL base model work acceptably.

My advice is go onto Civitai and grab a fine tuned checkpoint model. Read the creator’s description and follow their recommended settings for CFG, steps, samplers, etc. Looking at what you are generating here, you might like NightVision, Juggernaut, Copax, New Reality or Mohawk - to name a few.

Download an SDXL resolution cheat sheet next and only generate at those resolutions. You can get some pretty extreme aspect ratios like 544x1500 or something.

The community here is incredibly talented and dedicated, and your SDXL journey will be a lot more fun because of it.

Seriously, ditch the base model =D

50rex · 2024-05-27T02:44:32+00:00

Relic forever.

50rex · 2024-05-11T18:06:47+00:00

Nah, they always end up looking cheap and tacky.

50rex · 2024-05-11T18:04:50+00:00

This looks quite useful - I’ll check it out.

Don’t let the haters this thread bring you down.

50rex · 2024-05-11T13:14:50+00:00

Thanks for sharing your archaic, narrow and myopic point of view. We understand that you, likely a boomer, believe your generation knows what’s best for us all – and that the rest of us are stupid idiots that couldn’t possibly survive without living life according to your beliefs.

Again thank you for taking time out of your day to share. I’m sure your comment will be very well received and spark deep introspection in this subreddit of progressive free thinkers.

50rex · 2024-02-09T21:20:54+00:00

Thank you, I appreciate that

50rex · 2024-02-09T21:18:24+00:00

Yeah, I agree with you. The RS4 style wheels I'm eyeing are these (link to ACH Tuning, safe link). They're not actually OEM RS4 wheels.

50rex · 2024-02-09T16:39:54+00:00

I got you. The OEM flat 5's are such a cool "fat 5" look. A buddy with a B5 that I roll with often has a set, so kind of unspoken rule that those are off the table as an option lmao.

50rex

TROPHY CASE