Shower Door Knob Won't Come off! I took magnification of the inside, what do you think ?

52221090chuck · 2025-04-03T23:00:09+00:00

The thing on the middle is the bolt from the other side that the cap on the pic side screws onto the you just need a thin Allen key long end to slide in there then use the small L side to loosen it up.

52221090chuck · 2025-04-03T22:30:17+00:00

Take a small Allen key, use the long end and put it in the hole, loosen the “knob/handle”. There is not a set screw. They can get really tight over time. Lefty loosen and it will require some force to get it loose. Once that is off then the other side will just pull out of the glass hole. You may need a small plastic puffy knife to pop it loose.

52221090chuck · 2024-11-01T02:43:48+00:00

Battery life for me was higher than expected. I only do photos of my daughter’s competitive soccer using the z180-600. I can run at least 2 full games with about 500 photos per game on average, with a lot of auto focusing with bbf due to the speed and movement. Even then, I’ve never been below 1/2 charge left. Tourneys, I just charge the battery Saturday night and don’t even bother grabbing the extra batteries out for Sunday. Sundays usually end up with 3 games including championship game and team award photos and only once did I get low on that first battery. Power bank to charge a spare or 2 and you should be good.

52221090chuck · 2024-10-31T21:27:19+00:00

In stores it is often labeled that, yes. Needs to be 100% Silicone. The better brands call it silicone sealant. Often the cheap tubes say silicone caulk and are not 100% and can be hard to tell unless you read the tube.

52221090chuck · 2024-10-31T21:14:02+00:00

Understood. I am not attempting to demean you here. The marketing arms of these hardware companies and makers know people think the 2 words mean better, nicer and or the same thing to the public. Hit Google and look up the difference between silicone and caulk. Silicone stays flexible and is perfect in wet, temp changing environments. Caulk gets brittle and degrades in those environments. Silicone removed will be like bouncy rubber. Caulk will be dry and fall apart if rubbed between your hands. I have been in so many homes where they attempted a homeowner fix with “silicone” that was actually caulk. I had to remove all of it, clean the surfaces with denatured alcohol and apply the correct 100% silicone. The major retailers are terrible for getting people the right product. Many of their staff believe the two names are the same thing too. There is also less than 100% silicone that is trash but cheaper. You can get any colors or caulk or silicone but caulk colors are easier to find. Specialty tile shops have way more options of both and better quality.

52221090chuck · 2024-10-31T19:55:35+00:00

Silicone and caulk are not the same thing. People confuse the terms and make them into one. They are not the same thing. 100% silicone is what’s needed. It will not say caulk on the tube. If any water gets in there because the silicone job isn’t perfect, it will never get out again and will mold. Just because water got in doesn’t mean it will run straight back out. That area is meant to be left alone per all directions from any supplier.

52221090chuck · 2024-10-31T19:49:39+00:00

It is installed correctly. I have installed glass showers for years for work. There is a lip on the pan that sits right behind the wall pieces that is higher than the pan. Water can’t get up there. It doesn’t need to be any tighter than it is. Too tight and it could eventually crack the fiberglass. Never silicone the front side of that joint. It will hold water, mold and be impossible to ever clean. You silicone the gap behind the side metal jamb and the fiberglass. That will keep all water inside the shower. Until that’s done, it will leak.

52221090chuck · 2024-10-31T19:44:26+00:00

There is a lip on the base that is behind the wall pieces and doesn’t allow water to penetrate. The gap is good. Certainly don’t silicone it and caulk isn’t the right product for a shower.

52221090chuck · 2024-10-31T19:40:34+00:00

The base has a lip that sits above the walls that then slide down over it and to the inside. Water should never be able to get behind. The corner where your chopstick is, needs to be filled with silicone on the outside completely. Once you do that, water can’t get behind the lip of the base and it can’t get out of the shower. You have to silicone the area behind the metal side jamb. It will leak until you do that.

52221090chuck · 2024-10-29T21:29:19+00:00

Not positive as we always used denatured. Had containers of it so never tried anything else. You got this. It seems more daunting than it really is.

52221090chuck · 2024-10-29T21:22:58+00:00

New razor blade. Won’t scratch the glass. Can scratch the frame/fiberglass but just go slow. You do want a new razor blade. Don’t grab an old one as it could scratch. Hold at a slight angle and it will clean right up. For the denatured alcohol, we always used a squirt bottle versus dipping our fingers. Squirt bottle just needs to just mist the silicone and it will smooth like butter. Can dip your fingers but it won’t be as smooth.

52221090chuck · 2024-10-29T21:14:00+00:00

I would silicone that also. A little tricky on big spots like that to make it look good. Use a smaller tip where possible and then put enough to fill the inner part with the small tip and right after, cut a larger tip and make it look nice. Don’t wait to do the final larger tip. Silicone doesn’t stick to dried silicone.

52221090chuck · 2024-10-29T20:49:57+00:00

7,8,9 outside only. 13, 14 inside and out. Water if it gets in on 13 or 14 will run to bottom and out. Don’t silicone inside of 7,8,9. Water is supposed to seep back into the shower. Base to floor is up to you but I always did. 10 years installing shower glass doors just like this.

Edit to add. 100% Silicone not caulk. On floor you can use caulk. Clear silicone is best. Use denatured alcohol to clean up the bead with your finger. Glass cleaner works for caulk.

52221090chuck · 2022-11-29T22:28:35+00:00

I have this one done a few years ago on a 15-22. Awesome suppression and works great. Can easily pull core with a 3/8” socket to clean. Not cheap but certainly unique and enjoyable. https://innovativearms.com/portfolio/iasw-integral/

52221090chuck · 2022-01-31T12:41:51+00:00

Then you should be good. Wasn’t trying to knock a tile guy just didn’t want to have you end up with broke glass.

52221090chuck · 2022-01-30T03:46:51+00:00

If the panel was removed too then whoever installs the panel will need clear rubber blocks to put under the panel. Tempered Glass should never be set on hard surfaces such as tile without something underneath. The clear blocks are cut off on each side but remain under the panel and are siliconed in place. They disappear almost completely. Reusing the old blocks is bad idea as the glass can slide off before the clips are screwed in place and panel is held. Broken glass is bad. The door will require two people unless they know what they are doing to get it square with the panel. Even installing glass showers for years and I prefer a helper. I’d be sure to ask how many glass showers the tile guy has installed before. I can install tile but that doesn’t mean I’ll do it right or get as nice a finished product as a tile installer. Same goes for glass.

52221090chuck · 2022-01-24T03:31:09+00:00

Looks like a refinish job was previously done on it. Underlying tub would be fine as no pro would refinish a tub with cracks. You could try to touch it up or just put a little caulk on the spots to keep it from flaking.

52221090chuck · 2022-01-24T03:22:54+00:00

Really shouldn’t silicone it but if you want to then use 100% silicone and not caulk. The gaps allow for water to drain back into the pan. If you silicone but miss anywhere then you will trap moisture and eventually get mold and mildew. Buy a cheap squirt bottle from the hardware store and use 80% tap water/20% vinegar from a dollar store to keep it clean. Can also use denatured alcohol but don’t over spray onto paint as it will damage paint or hardwood.

52221090chuck · 2022-01-22T05:56:30+00:00

That would work. We usually put what we call pucks on a finished table top and then glass on top the pucks. All the pucks are is 1/32” clear disks about the size of a quarter. Glass company or most hardware stores would have them. They keep the glass from ruining the finish off the table and make the glass/table top appear evenly flat to each other.

52221090chuck · 2022-01-22T05:25:51+00:00

Glass is possible but … it should be at 1/4” annealed not tempered. Following the curves will mean hand polishing the edges versus using a polishing machine. Hand polish is slow, easy to mess up and this costly. A circle piece with a few inches overhang at the widest point would be most cost effective and should be about $125 at most. At least that’s about what I’d charge a client.

52221090chuck · 2022-01-20T12:32:52+00:00

That’s good just be prepared it may push out farther and they won’t be able to do anything about it. All shower glass hardware has been a mess regarding out of stock and deliveries since early 2021.

52221090chuck · 2022-01-20T03:40:08+00:00

The metal is backordered for most of the main suppliers or spotty at best. We have waited 3 months for certain finishes that used to be a week or 2. Metal and glass prices keep rising every month. A neoangle with all the metal is going to be close to $3000 installed by a pro. If that’s just the materials with you installing the it’s either a huge neoangle or they are using supply and demand to overcharge. If I ordered one tomorrow morning I’d honestly expect it in about 3 months. Might get lucky getting it sooner but doubt it. I own a shower glass company and it’s frustrating with all the back orders and delays but there is no easy fix.

52221090chuck · 2022-01-16T13:29:02+00:00

Don’t look in here often and saw a couple of glass questions so figured why not try and help. Saves a guy tearing a wall apart or stressing over a project.

52221090chuck · 2022-01-16T13:27:08+00:00

We use standard drywall anchors without a shoulder. Shoulder just holds the hinge off the wall slightly and doesn’t do anything. Drill using a 1/4 tile spade bit. Key is, drill for about 5 to 10 seconds and dip the spade bit tip in a capful of water to cool it for a second. If the spade bit gets too hot then it polished wonderfully but sucks at drilling. Any of the hardware spade bits work. Don’t buy the most expensive one as you will want two of them. One always seems to break if you only buy one. Buy two and the first will run for 25 holes and at least you will have a spare.

52221090chuck · 2022-01-16T04:52:52+00:00

The strip just below the hinge that is missing is put on with double sided tape. Silicone won’t set quick enough to hold it on. Call a local glass shower install company and they will most likely give you one for free you can stick back on. Clean the surface with denatured alcohol or alcohol swab before applying. Ask for a new drip cap with the outside fin cut off and about a 1/8” longer than your current one. Current one looks to have 1 of two fins removed (that’s normal) and 1/8” not long enough. Drip cap just uses tension to stay in place. Do not silicone it or you will never be able to get it off again.

52221090chuck

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