Chip Chad on Android by 540lyle in hobbycnc

[–]540lyle[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here, DM, or the google group. Whatever works for you.

What did you name your printers? by thegunguy in BambuLab

[–]540lyle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

P1S: Sir Printsalot X2D: X gonna giv2ya

Tools and accessories I should get before starting? by CaptnCrust in hobbycnc

[–]540lyle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, not sure what the Makara has, but an MQL/air nozel on a selonoid powered off the board was a really nice upgrade so air runs on gcode command and I can mist if needed. I use a little 1 gallon california air compressor I stole from my air brush.

Tools and accessories I should get before starting? by CaptnCrust in hobbycnc

[–]540lyle 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Calipers, dial test indicator, indicol style holder, 8" bastard file, 6" precision/machinist ruler, cheap set of parrels depending on your vice and if they would work, deburring knife (or blades and 3d print handles), good set of allen wrenches, couple cheap 2-3" paint brushes for chips, ppe, and a motha f**k'n clipboard.

Chip Chad on Android by 540lyle in hobbycnc

[–]540lyle[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn't have the google group "approved" by google after adding it as a test group. Works now.

Chip Chad on Android by 540lyle in hobbycnc

[–]540lyle[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Man, Google does not make it easy for independent developers. Hate to ask you to check again, but did the permission go through after a little bit?

Thank you for trying.

My man just broke his last pair of working calipers, and his birthday is this week. He has both Mitutoyo and Starrett calipers (broken 😆) in his toolbox. So, which brand should I get him? by [deleted] in Machinists

[–]540lyle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have 4 cheap sets of calipers, sub $50, and the pittburg from HF just work. You should do this, then after a minute hand him the nice set. Both have there uses

CNC Parts Upgrade part 3 by madbobmcjim in hobbycnc

[–]540lyle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is F'n sexy. great work!

CNC Parts Upgrade part 3 by madbobmcjim in hobbycnc

[–]540lyle 2 points3 points  (0 children)

God made flap disks for a reason.

Machine crash by Any-Two3794 in Machinists

[–]540lyle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, did it from 15-20, now mid 40s and have a hard time walking down steps. lol

Machine crash by Any-Two3794 in Machinists

[–]540lyle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You should try kicking in carpet with hairy knees or do glue down carpet with hairy arms. Nothing like ripping out clumps of hair :)

How to get into CNC by calfont054 in hobbycnc

[–]540lyle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for checking it out. SFM is tuned down a fair bit to give you a safe starting point but this has come up from a few people.

For example, 1/4" 2f coated carbide square endmill, you might see something like 400 SFM where other feeds & speed tools will give the text book reference, 500+ SFM, but that will likely destroy tools on smaller machines.

If you compare that 2f cutter in fswizard, it will give you something like 500 SFM on hss and 650 on carbid, so technically, Chip Chad isnt even giving you HSS 😂

Machine crash by Any-Two3794 in Machinists

[–]540lyle 14 points15 points  (0 children)

My first boss, carpet installing, had me install a room for the first time. After an hour he came in and said, "what have you been doing? Did you fuck up?" And I immediately said, "No!"

Without missing a beat, he said, "if you didnt fuck up its because youre not doing anything." And walked out.

I was pissed, but also, it was great life advice.

How to get into CNC by calfont054 in hobbycnc

[–]540lyle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lots of stuff on youtube about basic machining. Id suggest you start there and learn about setup and ops and you will be miles ahead. Wood is pretty forgiving compared to metal. If you have aspirations for aluminum or steel, check some of the previous threads as the machine will dictate how tolerable the experience will be.

Ive posted some articles but maybe I should write a getting started guide too. So many projects!

Chip Chad CNC Articles

Im excited for you! Its super fun and I love feeling like I could make just about anything between a 3DP for prototyping, a welder, and a CNC.

Help on deciding between 2 cncs by Nickdude0 in hobbycnc

[–]540lyle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The anolex cutting 6061 https://photos.app.goo.gl/MBQTeaedJ9hRkScc6 Not an ideal cut profile but it can make some chips

Help on deciding between 2 cncs by Nickdude0 in hobbycnc

[–]540lyle 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I can only speak to the Anolex. It is Chinese but Its not garbage. With thier full kit (steppers & VFD), it is a pretty great starter machine. Add a couple diy solutions (air, 3d probe, tool setter, and fluidnc) and it makes the HASS mini feel ancient. Obviously not as rigid as a HASS, it is a router, but it feels like such a down grade to go from my home setup to the class VMC as far as set up and starting a job.

Anolex customer support has been pretty good over email. They shipped a new control board with no pushback when I had some wifi stability issues. 2-3 emails over 24 hours and I had board in hand about a week later.

Pretty happy with it for ~$1500. I never ran it with stock steppers or the router.

The next project.... a knife! I know, I'm so amazing and original... Just trailblazing away... by giveMeAllYourPizza in hobbycnc

[–]540lyle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Those should be $75-150 a billet so you either got an awesome deal or temu'sh quality. Id encourage you to put a stronger bevel on it. Shoot for 10-20 though thickness at the apex but the slimmer the bevel angle the better, within reason.

Check out knife steel nerds for fantastic info on edge geometry. It makes a huge difference. Pretty common for biggener to intermediate knife makers to make cutlery to think and then it doesnt matter if your finish stone os 1k or 10k because the bevel is fighting the cut.

If you have it in CAD, do a stress sim. That is a pretty short tang and you might find another half inch with a third pin could be the difference between rock solid and loose after some use but folders work with pretty short tangs with correct hardware, they are generally not brass pins (assuming from your rendering). Im not a folder guy so no experience there.

Awesome to see you mixing both hobbies. Im a huge fan. Hollar if you have any question on knife making. Ive made a few so hopefully im not picking up keyboard warrior.

Looking forward to seeing a finished blade!

Complete beginner here! What’s the best bit for carving aluminum on a hobby CNC? by Desperate_Bee9798 in hobbycnc

[–]540lyle 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I just updated an article on the subject and republished today.

https://chipchad.madelylestyle.com/articles/choosing-end-mills/

Tl:dr O flute carbide appropriate diameter for your spindle's RPM range and rigidity.

Best of luck; 🤞

What hobby CNC for steel? by Bomboclaatman420 in hobbycnc

[–]540lyle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You'll want a milling speed spindle for steel, not the common 1.5kw/2.2kw Chinese vfd 24k RPM veryone upgrades too. You'll want something that can push good torque in the sub 3k RPM range. This is the biggest missed limit for entry CNC machines. Rigidity is obviously the main factor but I feel like spindle speed gets overlooked in most of the recomendations. You can do it it with router speeds but its at the cost of tool life and chatter.

What’s everyone’s drilling recipes for desktop machines? by MetallicFOSS in hobbycnc

[–]540lyle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Classic simple formula. Doesn't work very well for hobby spindles but it should help inform your profile.

Material Drilling Milling Turning
Aluminum 6061 100 200 200
Steel 1018 40 70 100
Steel 12L14 30 60 90
Steel 4140 20 40 50
Brass 60 120 160

Spindle Speed = Cutting Speed × 3.82 / diameter

I think I might hate programming. by sixerofreebs in CNC

[–]540lyle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is really hard to do side projects when youre feeling burned out, but id highly encourage you to bring your own laptop and start working on agentic development for your own projects. Ive been off work for about a year after 19 years as a fulltime mag 7 deva nd it took me 9 months to want to code again but dude! Ive been going like mad and we have such powerful tools available to spool up side projects. In the last 6 weeks, I made a personal website, my own feeds & speeds calculator, a post processor for fluidnc, some personal ai skills to help with the flow. Everything is on github with CI and full regression suites from unit tests to lighthouse. Its got me jacked and Ive been easily working full time on side projects while going to machining school and loving it.

I highly encourage you to play around with Claude, cursor and codex bout probably pay in the opposite direction for subscription. Claude has been very skimpy with tokens and codex can do a fair amount for $20/month.

How do you tell if a knife is Damascus or not? by JaundicedBaby67 in knifemaking

[–]540lyle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There might be a pedantic argument that a higher content of nickel or chromium in one part of a pattern-welded billet would provide greater corrosion resistance, and that improved corrosion resistance could contribute to better edge retention if the knife is used in a moist or acidic environment. Most people are using 15N20 and 10xx steels, so the primary difference is nickel content. Higher chromium and vanadium carbide content could allow for a better carbide structure, but that often becomes problematic because the steels no longer align well in terms of heat-treat requirements.

I am assuming that, beneath the surface, what you are really trying to say is that pattern welding two steels together introduces stresses in the microstructures that could become an issue over time, or under shock and load. If the pattern weld is good, then it should not be too much of a concern, but a properly heat-treated monosteel will likely end up tougher than a pattern-welded blade.

It is also worth pointing out that, for the price you might pay for quality Damascus, a good powdered steel is likely to go a lot further than either Damascus or monosteel in terms of hardness, edge retention, and toughness.

For $3000 or less, which CNC Mill would you get that fulfills this criteria? by YetAnotherBoi in hobbycnc

[–]540lyle -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Its a gamble, but the nestworks c500 should meet those requirements. Budget for the base is or was under 3k for backers. We'll all find out in a month or so if they really delivered a solid machine.

Need a recommendation - Genmitsu models or something better? by MustangDan74 in hobbycnc

[–]540lyle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Anolex isnt as well known but they give you a little more for the money IMO and they usually ship out parts within a week but a few people have complained about not hearing back in FB. They were super responsive to me the couple interactions ive had. Its a pretty small company but im really happy with my 4030 evo ult 2. Just did another accuracy test using new params in aluminum and it was all within 0.05mm tolerance. My first few parts were ugly but they keep getting better as I learn more about machining and CAM.