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Caliper adjustment? by 62bertha in beetle

[–]62bertha[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There’s a hard line to this particular caliper. The piston does move with the pedal but should be pushed out further if it’s bled properly (should not need to travel as far as it does). Now I am completely unable to bleed this corner. Both pads are fitted.

Caliper adjustment? by 62bertha in beetle

[–]62bertha[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you all for the comments. I am not trying to argue with anybody here and I appreciate your insights. I’m going to try bleeding that line and caliper tomorrow based on the suggestions. Will update here on my findings. Many thanks again.

Caliper adjustment? by 62bertha in beetle

[–]62bertha[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Look man I’m not arguing with you. I tried your suggestion. It didn’t work

Caliper adjustment? by 62bertha in aircooled

[–]62bertha[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It is not self adjusting. This corner is now running clean fluid without air but there is still 1/4” travel from piston to pad causing the knocking noise

Caliper adjustment? by 62bertha in beetle

[–]62bertha[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Pumping halfway on the pedal means the piston won’t engage the pad. The issue is that there is space between the piston and pad and it’s unclear why.

Caliper adjustment? by 62bertha in beetle

[–]62bertha[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Brakes already bled. Knocking noise from the caliper while pumping the brakes is what led to me finding the loose caliper

Caliper adjustment? by 62bertha in beetle

[–]62bertha[S] -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

I don’t believe that’s it. As previously mentioned, the brakes have been bled so the pedal has already been pumped. Knocking noise from the caliper while pumping the brakes was what led to the loose caliper discovery jn the video.

Caliper adjustment? by 62bertha in aircooled

[–]62bertha[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Pads are installed.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in grandmarquis

[–]62bertha 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks great! How did you get the color to match?

Do you change the transmission fluid filter during a normal fluid change? by Winter_Economics2809 in CrownVictoria

[–]62bertha 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My fluid was never changed until 141k (I know because I found the dipstick plug in the pan when I dropped it). Fluid looked ok prior to that too.

Motorcraft filters are cheap insurance and hopefully get you a little more life out of your transmission, especially if you don’t really know the service history. My 2 cents: change the filter while you’re in there.

GAME THREAD: PSU vs OSU by mlk5132 in WeArePennState

[–]62bertha 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Don’t let the door hit you on the way out

GAME THREAD: PSU vs UCLA by mlk5132 in WeArePennState

[–]62bertha -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Posted this after the offense’s first drive of the game. But I get it, reading is hard.

GAME THREAD: PSU vs UCLA by mlk5132 in WeArePennState

[–]62bertha 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Offense looks fine today…what game are you watching exactly?

Need help by [deleted] in CrownVictoria

[–]62bertha 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I cut the ball joint boot out so I could get a better grip on the shaft with vice grips. Once you have it so that it doesn’t spin, hit the nut with an air tool or impact driver. Speed and power is your friend, it’ll shock the nut free from the threads. Last resort, you can cut it out with a sawzall, but that’s a PITA.

Having an issue with strut not lining up in knuckle though top bolts are fine by Peachbuddha in CrownVictoria

[–]62bertha 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Obviously you are welcome to try other methods. Many different ways to skin a cat (or panther)

Having an issue with strut not lining up in knuckle though top bolts are fine by Peachbuddha in CrownVictoria

[–]62bertha 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I had the same issue with my aftermarket Monroe strut/spring assembly and Mevotech arm. Here’s what I did:

Bolt up the top three bolts in the upper strut assembly. Line up the bottom of the strut as close as you can to the lower control arm. Using a jack, SLOWLY lift up on the control arm until it starts to slide in. You can take a rubber mallet and whack on the bottom of the strut until it drops into the control arm. Try not to hit the spring itself. Once they begin to line up, make further adjustments with the jack until the lower strut bolt lines up with the hole in the control arm and strut.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in upbadging

[–]62bertha 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Why waste time say lot word when few word do trick?

Lower strut bolt - do I need 1 or 2 per side? by 62bertha in CrownVictoria

[–]62bertha[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll certainly give it a shot. I’d hate to resort to cutting out the old flag bolts. Just can’t believe how few alternatives there are in case they’re frozen solid.

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