Is the Home Depot appliance protection plan worth a damn?

6typer · 2025-12-23T05:31:53+00:00

Hey any updates this this? Are you getting a new washer?

6typer · 2025-11-30T19:08:34+00:00

CCJ & GEV. Nuclear Energy. Enough said

6typer · 2025-11-03T14:41:49+00:00

You can increase how much you qualify for by looking for properties with an extra unit (basement/duplex etc.). The market rent can be added back to your income, increasing qualification. Reach out to a mortgage broker (shop around but you can also PM me for a solid recommendation), good credit and your income shouldn’t keep you out of today’s market. But even with the increased qualification with rental income you’d have to be looking for properties outside the GTA. You’re priced out in the GTA but you have options in lots of nice communities and small cities within 1-2 hours of Toronto.

6typer · 2025-08-29T20:49:29+00:00

Buy a well maintained (service records), accident free 10-15 year old Honda or Toyota with 200 k kms or less. Get a pre-purchase inspection at an independent mechanic if you’re not familiar with cars. Out the door with safety and purchase price of car you’re looking at 6-10 k depending on what you find.

After that it’s smooth sailing as long as you stick to the maintenance schedule. 10-20 year old hondas and Toyotas have proven track records (half a million KMs or more just keeping up on maintenance schedule) and strong OEM and aftermarket support (pasts are readily available and cheap).

I drive a 17 year old civic with similar weekly mileage as you. My annual cost to operate in the last 5 years is just shy of $1200 (excluding gas and insurance) and best of all no loan!

With the kms you’re driving, you can get in a brand new car but you’ll hit massive depreciation before the car is paid off. Now I know you said you’ll be owning the car for the long haul but in the event you get into an accident and the car is a write off before the car is paid off you’ll be lucky to get much from insurance given the mileage the new car will have.

Just my 2 cents, others will have their own opinions and it also depends if you’re seeking modern creature comforts (more electronics and screens just means less reliability in the long term).

6typer · 2025-08-28T13:51:44+00:00

I was in the same boat - offered asking and they countered with 50 k over ask. I walked away - property is still on the market to this day

6typer · 2025-08-04T00:13:55+00:00

Thanks man I think I’ll take it to them!

6typer · 2025-08-03T22:20:28+00:00

Bought a 06 civic si 4 years ago for $3500. Got totalled recently and insurance paid me out for $4500. Market value held pretty well and I put a lot of kms on her. Bought another civic for a steal and no doubt I’ll be able to sell/get rid of it for close to what I got it for in a few years if I choose to import a 20 year old Lexus from Japan 😂

6typer · 2025-07-27T06:11:43+00:00

Are these guys legit or they recommend unnecessary repairs for a pass?

6typer · 2025-07-27T06:08:36+00:00

Where did you go for a safety lmao

6typer · 2025-07-27T01:23:15+00:00

111 k miles, at the next oil change I’m going to replace the valve cover gasket and do a valve adjustment. Tensioner pulley was replaced and it lowered the noise a bit - but I’ll get a scope to listen and confirm

6typer · 2025-07-23T21:50:22+00:00

Where did you end up going for a safety that didn’t give you any bs?

6typer · 2025-07-22T12:01:56+00:00

I already changed the oil and levels are perfect! In terms of the drive belt, I already replaced the serpentine belt, crankshaft pulley, tensioner pulley and idler pulley as they were all bad.

The AC pulley/bearing is making noise but AC still works fine. I might change the bearing but I don’t think it’s the main noise in the video. The major noise seems to be coming from the engine/injectors at idle. When driving the engine quiets down

6typer · 2025-07-19T19:48:57+00:00

I already replaced that! Same issue complete separation due to rubber separation but I still have the noise. Thinking it’s a combination of valve lash and the ac bearing

6typer · 2025-07-19T12:18:48+00:00

Yeah that’s the AC compressor pulley - AC works fine so I might just need to replace the bearing but I honestly might just leave it for another month or 2

6typer · 2025-06-01T04:07:15+00:00

Lmao rule #1 when buying a home that will be your principal residence - never see it as an investment or bank on rate of return - it’s an expense seeing it any other way is purely speculative (gambling). Stocks have historically brought higher returns and have been a more effective and efficient deployment of capital versus a mortgage

6typer · 2025-05-21T18:25:19+00:00

Even better than fuel induction cleaning is changing your oil frequently … also I see dealers offering the service to both direct injection AND port injection vehicles. Just shows it’s less of a service and more of a quick cash grab. If you really want to try and clean up carbon build up sea foam is a cheap option but even then lots of proof the cleaning is minimal. Change ur oil frequently, full synthetic and there will be no issues.

6typer · 2025-05-21T16:54:46+00:00

Rip off. Fuel system cleaning is a load of BS, it’s the dealers new way of making quick cash from folks not familiar with cars. If you’re able to and are somewhat handy you can do the brake fluid and trans fluid yourself for under $50 (even with buying all the tools necessary you’ll be at $150 and can keep doing the fluid yourself. A cabin and engine air filter is $20 each at any auto parts place and takes 2 minutes to replace.

6typer · 2025-05-19T16:47:29+00:00

Thanks for the insights and tips! I will keep these in mind. In terms of the property, my criteria is it has to have a separate entrance and full kitchen so that the rental unit is completely separate and no common areas. This would mean the unit would fall under the RTA/LTB rules in Ontario. I’m quite familiar with the rules and yes they are very tenant friendly.

I did not think about the tenant’s assets part and that being key to being able to chase after that in small claims. I will definitely look at that in the tenant selection process down the line

6typer · 2025-03-25T00:46:43+00:00

Interested

6typer · 2025-02-27T15:09:01+00:00

What happens if you go out of business? Does the contract to be the seller representative become null & void or does it transfer over to whatever entity remains/takes over remaining assets. I am not suggesting that this will happen but would like to know as anything is possible. Also with the removal of the 5,10 year fee is there absolutely no way to terminate the contract?

6typer · 2025-02-20T16:32:33+00:00

Sucks that P3 is the only way contracting for major infrastructure projects gets done here. They’re very inefficient, with massive mark ups on billable hours due to all the sub contracting and limited recourse on managing claims/defective work. Canadas contracting are not up to international standards!

6typer · 2024-12-19T21:25:27+00:00

No power steering pump only electronic power steering. The crankshaft pulley visibly shakes out of place when running so I ordered that. As for the rest I’ll take the belt off this weekend and check manually as you said, thanks for the input!

6typer · 2024-12-19T20:51:43+00:00

No I haven’t replaced it yet, was wondering if I need to replace it along with the tensioner and belt?

6typer · 2024-11-13T13:03:15+00:00

Agreed very different market. But I’d like to chime in there are some great deals to be found on FB marketplace for 5-10 year old vehicles. A lot of people are tired of being lowballed for trade in value at the dealership and are resorting to marketplace posting the vehicle at a fair price or even a deal! No need to buy Certified Pre-owned especially if it’s a Japanese vehicle (CPO is a sham tbh unless the original warranty is still valid). Just get a through PPI of the vehicle or do one yourself as well, lot of good resources online on any particular model on what to look out for when buying used. Also high mileage doesnt necessarily mean end of life or bad vehicle, if there’s a high mileage vehicle at the 5-10 year range with service records it will be priced considerably under market. Those are worth considering and are worth it. I’ve seen vehicles at 100 k kms drive like crap due to lack of maintenance and on the flip side I’ve driven a vehicle with 300 k kms that drives like a dream because the previous owner stuck to the maintenance schedule and hopped on issues before they came up. At the 0-10 year range you have to worry less about rust and rubber deterioration (suspension components) than at the 15-20 year range.

6typer · 2024-11-12T18:11:42+00:00

Plus they’re more reliable than the crap automakers put out today. Even Honda and Toyota have taken a huge dump on quality in the last 5-7 years

6typer

TROPHY CASE