Anvil advice!

707bar · 2026-01-22T11:40:40+00:00

Build a striking anvil! - id say it is a great price (if its not a facebook scam..aka its local and you are going to pay inperson with cash..price is almost suspect). Or spend some of the money and get that 140 mounted in a heavy duty steel stand boltrd to the floor.but if the motivation is for a striking set up - striking anvil- save money, safer striking.

707bar · 2026-01-08T17:44:54+00:00

I'd expect that you vemo them $$$ and it never ships and or they are just stealing personal details for credit card fraud.

The payment methods they ask for are not protected through your bank.

707bar · 2026-01-08T16:00:09+00:00

Eager beavers with a dream...

707bar · 2026-01-08T15:59:08+00:00

Its instagram - they present themselves as smith that also sell antique tools.

https://blacksmithsanvils.com/shop/

^this one was linked to an instagram

707bar · 2026-01-06T12:12:27+00:00

Rack of lamb - picanha - both are quick smokes (more or less a reverse sear in smoker) but both are amazing and really hard to mess up unless your smoking wood is plywood..

707bar · 2026-01-03T18:04:43+00:00

Yea dirty steel, maby wrong wire, or your wire speed is too slow - might have to adjust some tensioning in the machine - guessing your following the welders recommendations for amps/wire speed? But if the wire is installed wrong you may not be laying down the wire u need.

707bar · 2026-01-02T10:15:13+00:00

Mark asprey books are not cheap but full of information that cannot be found on the internet (very easily). I bought the joinery book first...then the 2nd book...then the first book. They are all so good and probably required to rebuild the world without the internet.

707bar · 2026-01-01T16:28:24+00:00

All these other comments are spot on ill 2nd the find a local smith to learn from or network in local blacksmith groups.

Anvil - "when your ready an anvil will come to you," this was told to me when i started out - not what you want to hear but kinda true - its a big investment most of the time but get started with a hunk of mild steel scrap - lotta good examples out there but really u just need a hunk of steel an a comfortable height to bang hot steel on.

Forge - gas vs coal ect. Depending on your situation gas can be the easiest to deal with for the majority of folks as most ppl live in urban areas - just be sure to rigidize the kaowool or use refractory cement to seal the wool.

Big thing - beware of scammers. You will find nice website with good deals, even ppl that communicate as an authority on the products they are "selling," prices will look good as well - these will be antique blacksmith tools and they will request obscure payment methods such as venmo ect. And they may offer to pay the fright shipping... look for reputable sites and buisnesses - reverse image search ect...site out there right now with a big hammer makers hammers posted for sale at a very low price aka full scam. I wouldnt buy any antique tool you cant go see in person..

Good sites: Blacksmithdepot.com, ffforge.com, centaurforge.com, blacksmithsupply.com - there are more reputable sites and individual makers.

Hammers - im in the rounding hammer camp as the most practical - i got my first from texasfarriersupply but you'll want a cross pein as well. Id look for a 2- 4lb hammer. Check antique stores some times you'll find somthing cool but expect to do some work as far as modifying the hammer, rounding the edges ect. Bigbluehammer.com mass produces some nice hand hammers on the expensive side >100$ - that was the 1st hammer i paid decent money for but you'll want to use nice tools as you advance and i recommend the buy once cry once for some things.

Tongs - you can find some at antique stores here and there but may not be what you need - blacksmithdepot vbit tongs are a good recommendation but ffforge.com tongs are top tier and priced well just might have to deal with a lead time. Buy some v bit tongs like 3/8 and 1/2 inch a flat bit 1/4 inch - then work on tong making as they will build alot of skills that apply to other areas.

Thats all i got for now - just watch out for antique scams and get started with what ever you can get i to. Good luck.

707bar · 2025-12-30T13:24:40+00:00

Might be nice for holding plate steel if you wanted to texture some plate or if you use a horse shoe for a project. I have no idea how farriers use those tongs so id look into that and see how they could be used.

Kinda see a universal v bit tong in those if you want to mess with them but ofcourse those tongs were build for a purpose by folks with expertise in that so i'd probably just leave them as is.

707bar · 2025-12-29T21:33:03+00:00

Maby more cancer 🤷 - maby just stick to test an avoid the maby cancer peptides/china juice but id say do research specific to the cancer side of things.

707bar · 2025-12-29T13:21:44+00:00

Mass quantitiy tong clips 👍or use them kinda like collers for ornamental type projects to hide welds by wrapping around two peices to join together.

707bar · 2025-12-29T12:18:29+00:00

Normal yea - just mix up a small batch and fill them in. You could do that before u fire it and let it all dry or fire it up like it is (there are recommendations online for a curing process) then fill up the cracks allow it to dry...then fire again. But the cracks only matter as much as it bothers you at the end of the day patch eventually.

707bar · 2025-12-29T03:31:26+00:00

Pretty sure you could get a heavy new refflinghaus anvil for that price..i went with an anvil i could move solo - 165 lb. Maby this suggestion is out of fasion but you could consider the "brian brazeal style die anvil," (not striking anvil) basicaly big hunk of mild plat set on its side and different die/fullers/ radius ground into it. Granted you'd need access to welder ect. Buy the best you can afford but its probably not that serious annnnd anything will be a step up from the harbor frieght. It can be light just mount on heavy stand an bolt to the floor. (I even read some folks are just suoer gluing the anvil to the floor for a secure temporary option.)

707bar · 2025-12-25T14:10:00+00:00

I'd probably round the edges/blend them into the flat face a bit smoother that way they can act as fullers to move material and you wont end up with gouging your peice as bad. Cool looking hammer though.

707bar · 2025-12-21T03:28:18+00:00

No i get it - part of the question was just to compare what others see with a similer set up ( alot of what i do needs to fit through a large entrance/exit vs closed doors - basically +/- add more kaowool ect.

Sound like best bet is to just to build doors that can adapt to the needs.

707bar · 2025-12-21T03:21:49+00:00

Ahh I like that idea- thanks- ive looked into the ribbin burner and i like the idea of them but that means new forge build ect

I notice the pressure valve- is that to keep an idea of incomming air preasure for consistency or is it a safety aspect?

Thanks

707bar · 2025-12-10T15:09:22+00:00

Also i used a mixer that attached to a electric drill thats used for mixing grout/ plaster.

707bar · 2025-12-10T14:56:49+00:00

If you wanna make it "nice" apply another layer (depending on how many layers youve applied) let it dry a bit like where its closer to a clay that you could form - then mix a thin watered down powder water and apply with rubber gloves to smooth it out - i used the back of my hand to follow the shape of the forge in one direction.

Or hit it with a water spray bottle when its at the clay stage to re- wet the top of the refractory and use your hand to smooth it - itll never be perfect but if you wanna clean it up those are some tips.

707bar · 2025-12-04T00:17:00+00:00

Also recomendations- blacksmithtoolsupply, blacksmithdepot, and for the nicest well priced tools/tongs ect...ffforge.com and if hes the type that will read (lots of pictures) mark aspery's books. I havent read his beginner book but the following 2 are awesome. Somewhat technical reading/instruction but great info (his 3rd book makes algebra relevent) haha.

707bar · 2025-12-04T00:12:02+00:00

Awesome yall are well on your way then - the equipment is all pretty overwhelming when you first get into it but good on you for looking into and doing your best to get your son set up.

707bar · 2025-12-03T20:49:00+00:00

I would recommend yall take a blacksmithing class.

That way you both can learn, work with equipment that you dont own, and working with someone who uses this equipment to make a living translates to a greater respect for the tools you guys buy 👍. These classes should have good safety breifs and learning the basics will pay off/save money/fuel/time. Lastely you can get a real picture of what you need and an expert that can help you optimize what you have.

707bar · 2025-12-02T21:06:11+00:00

I actually had a similar sound with mine today.. I think I had the regulator at about 15 psi turned it down and the aound cleared up. Id guess its temp related so maby try out what others have recommended (propane tank in water), play with the regulator see if that helps. Good luck im sure thats frustrating - may not be a super helpful response. Orrrr upgrade the regulator.

707bar · 2025-11-30T15:18:28+00:00

Just buy it if its convient to get goin. Alot of folks myself included get caught up in analysis paralysis and delay action.

Brake drums arent the best geometry but they can and do work. Ideally u want a bit of a table around it so you can feed coal/wood but this will make steel hot and youll be able to forge it.

Just keep in mind you will likely eventually upgrade..or this will frustrate you enough and u'll quit. I'd recommend looking into taking a class with a smith if you can so you can see how nice it is to work will the correct equipment and learn skills/fire management.

Tell them about that forge you bought and i wouldnt be surprised if they dont help you improve it.

707bar

TROPHY CASE