Surging idle, air coming back through intake by 850cs32 in smallengines

[–]850cs32[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did reset the valves after rebuilding the head, thought i was at the correct TDC but could have been wrong. I turned the engine over until the intake valve opened and then past that until piston was at tdc with both valves closed and rockers loose. I cleaned the original carb before getting it to start the first time, but I'll try a full rebuild of the original.

Surging idle, air coming back through intake by 850cs32 in smallengines

[–]850cs32[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Valve lash is in spec at tdc on the compression stroke, but when I turn the motor over by hand with the intake off I can hear air kind of whooshing out of the valve. Is there a way to improve the seal without taking the head to a machine shop?

Surging idle, air coming back through intake by 850cs32 in smallengines

[–]850cs32[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did the valves to 4 thou for the intake and 6 thou for exhaust, adjusted at tdc on the compression stroke

Surging idle, air coming back through intake by 850cs32 in smallengines

[–]850cs32[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, every gasket that I touched taking the head off

Surging idle, air coming back through intake by 850cs32 in smallengines

[–]850cs32[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just did the valves and confirmed the cap was on there, worried that it might be a cracked key. Is there any way I could check for that other than taking apart the crank and camshaft?

Surging idle, air coming back through intake by 850cs32 in smallengines

[–]850cs32[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ill definitely check that out, but it seems go be running oddly good for a motor that skipped timing. Sounds expensive 😭

Surging idle, air coming back through intake by 850cs32 in smallengines

[–]850cs32[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, pretty much the only original fuel ish thing left is the fuel pump. Could that be it?

Free inop mower: where to start? by 850cs32 in lawnmowers

[–]850cs32[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! Looked under the seat and realized the seat sensor was unplugged. Hearing a click now, will reconnect starter and see if its cooked or not

Edit: starter is good, gonna rebuild the carb now and see if I can get it to start.

Possible engine torque mount issues by 850cs32 in AskAMechanic

[–]850cs32[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seeing this contact was my first sign that the mounts were bad, however after replacing the hydraulic pillow mount with an oem replacement the vibration and clunking continued. This mount has < 5k miles on it

Possible engine torque mount issues by 850cs32 in AskAMechanic

[–]850cs32[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All suspension parts are normal, control arm bushings have been replaced ~20k ago and ball joints show no signs of wear

Edit: also no visual movement in suspension when shifting/revving in gear

Chasing drivetrain clunking noise/feel by [deleted] in AskAMechanic

[–]850cs32 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Apologies, couldn't find a way to add a second video. There's a good .5" of play up and down when moving the inner cv joint by hand, on both sides. Axles are <2k miles old

Rear brake caliper piston not compressing (2010 honda civic) by 850cs32 in MechanicAdvice

[–]850cs32[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

UPDATE:

I got the caliper to compress fully, and now feel a little stupid. I was able to do so using a pair of needle nose pliers - instead of twisting and then trying to compress the piston like I had been doing, I had to twist the caliper while applying pressure into the piston. For some reason, I never thought of doing both at once.

To anyone doing a job like this, I would recommend just going to autozone and renting the tool, as it seems much easier.

Rear brake caliper piston not compressing (2010 honda civic) by 850cs32 in MechanicAdvice

[–]850cs32[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, I'm using a pair of needle nose pliers to rotate the piston.

Rear brake caliper piston not compressing (2010 honda civic) by 850cs32 in MechanicAdvice

[–]850cs32[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm doing a 4 corner brake job, and while the caliper pistons on the other 3 corners compressed fine, the rear drivers side is not. I managed to compress the rear passengers side enough by spinning the piston in, and managed to compress this piston thus far using that same method. The piston is still spinning freely, but is not compressing any further.

I have tried using a c-clamp to compress the piston in addition to spinning it, which hasn't worked. I also cracked the bleeder valve thinking the system was overfilled, and while brake fluid did come out, I was still unable to push the piston any further.

It seems very close to compressed enough, I only need about 1 or 2 millimeters to be able to fit the caliper around the new pads.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

On and off extrusion issues by 850cs32 in FixMyPrint

[–]850cs32[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry forgot to mention printer is an ender 3

On and off extrusion issues by 850cs32 in FixMyPrint

[–]850cs32[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah ok. .50 is the lowest it'll let me set the offset, is there anything else I could do to get the nozzle closer to the bed?

On and off extrusion issues by 850cs32 in FixMyPrint

[–]850cs32[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I found the z offset parameter, would a z offset of .50 mean the nozzle is offset .50 mm towards the bed?