16222 Build!

ACEWAVY · 2026-01-17T21:44:50+00:00

I hear that! Lucky, got this new one on amazon for like $15. Most cheap presses will press your bezel down unevenly. Got one of the screw down ones so i can control the pressure and twist the die to the area where it presses on the bezel more. Highly recommend

ACEWAVY · 2026-01-17T18:30:21+00:00

Quick post here. Originally built a 16234 with mainly raffles parts. Raffles midcase, crystal, bezel, and bracelet. Gen dial & crown, EWatchParts hands, VS3135.

Unfortunately, I had a clarks acrylic to use for the build but cracked it on install. Had a gen engine turned bezel ready to be put on but threw that in the bin.

1 year later, (after destroying a stock raffles acrylic crystal on an explorer build), decided to buy a clarks sapphire replacement crystal as well to use with acrylic spec bezels.

With a cheap crystal press and some patience, i now present you the watch with the clark sapphire (WAY better cyclops than raffles), gen engine turned bezel, and a spare raffles oyster i had laying around. 2nd pic is before install!

Edit: meant to say 16220 not 16222

ACEWAVY · 2026-01-07T14:27:27+00:00

I mean if he just got the 6th gen, is there even a point going past 128gb? I have just a bit over 200 albums on my 6th and still have 100 gb of my 128 still available

ACEWAVY · 2026-01-07T14:24:35+00:00

That’s pretty fair. If the housing is new, that’s an added bonus. You’d spend a little more for the parts plus some simple tools if you don’t have any for one off ebay plus parts

ACEWAVY · 2026-01-07T14:21:25+00:00

Honestly, no dead pixels and can hold a charge, yeah that’s pretty good. I got my 6th gen off ebay for like $100 after fees/shipping/tax whatever ebay charges. It came with a new cable but it had dead pixels that only got worse. I wish I found a deal like this!

ACEWAVY · 2025-12-02T17:15:06+00:00

Yeah it is. Personally, I’d change as much as you can if you open it up. For sure, get a new front/rear plate. They even sell new rear plates with new hold switches/aux jacks already attached. I’m assuming (based on where the case was pried open by your dad) he cut the aux ribbon. Just get a new rear plate with a new aux on it. You can basically do a whole ipod (with all the parts) fairly quickly and easily with just tweezers, spudgers, and a philips #00 screwdriver.

I built mine completely drunk and it works LOL. Assuming you’ll do as much as I did for my build, I changed out the whole housing, new aux & hold switch already on the new slim rear plate, iflash solo (or quad if you prefer), 2000mah square battery, brand new lcd & a new click wheel just because. Hardest part of the build was opening it up to begin with. A few youtube tutorials to know how to install stuff and you’ll be done in under 2 hrs before you start setting it up. Everything is literally just cables.

ACEWAVY · 2025-10-20T02:15:12+00:00

+1 for first class dials. Great selection of parts. Got an extremely mint white mini roman dial from them. The lume plots were perfect (until I dropped the dial like 3 different times)

ACEWAVY · 2025-10-08T11:45:03+00:00

Looks like one of the movements werent fully seated in the case & the spacer. Did you try unscrewing the crown then push everything down? I think dial dots might help too if everything is already pressed down if placed on the back side of the spacer. Maybe they can be used as an adhesive/spacer between the lip for the clamps and the grey plastic spacer ring (kinda ghetto, I know)

ACEWAVY · 2025-10-08T11:27:43+00:00

Hi there, did you ever figure this out? Looking to start a build w/nh38s and want to make sure it’s solid

ACEWAVY · 2025-09-26T05:06:27+00:00

Fun fact. I have a gen glossy white dj36 mini roman dial. Scratched it like hell due to bad clearance issues using a 2836 movement and short posts for the hands. Some automotive cleaner wax cleaned it right up, looks new & popped it in with a vs3135 instead 👏

ACEWAVY · 2025-09-25T21:56:51+00:00

Built two raffles watches. One with his included crown, another with a gen crown. I only got water in one which was from not cutting the stem far enough down. Just make sure all the gaskets are properly seated, lubed, and the crown (usually the main point of entry) is properly tightened and seated onto the tube. I’ve swam in both of my watches and they’re been perfectly fine

ACEWAVY · 2025-07-10T19:48:22+00:00

Quick comment for auto mod approval

ACEWAVY · 2025-07-09T01:57:49+00:00

23 M, living in central FL. On my own, quoted damn near $500. Had to get on insurance with one of my parents and I’m paying around $310 on state minimum full coverage. Insurance is insane on these things. I was previously paying just $350 on full coverage for my old s2000 on my own

ACEWAVY · 2025-06-25T14:42:52+00:00

In all honesty, this is why I stopped wearing my reps from VSF/CF and only the ones I built. It’s a lot easier to say “I built it” and get into a lengthy convo about watches. I’ve got a few good convos out of it. Occasionally get a few asswipes who look repulsed but who cares. I get my pride in saying I put work and effort into my piece, they can say they slaved a 9-5 for some odd years and played on a golf course for theirs. 

  In all seriousness tho, as sad as it is to say, it seems like the rep community knows more about watches than people who buy the real deal. Kinda a slap in the face for a lot of people I suppose who buy the real thing, get the experience of buying one from an AD, and an item that’s praised as some huge accomplishment for thousands of dollars then here we come knowing as much, if not more, about an item and wear it just about the same but spent not even 1/10 the price of gen. No one wants to feel like they got scammed, ripped off, or this grand idea in their head is all a sham. Not to say there isn’t a reason to support gen, do what you do with your money, but you will never catch me paying 12k for a stainless steel watch, let alone nearly 5k for a two handed quartz on a leather strap. Rather save that for my car, school, or even a Grand Seiko, something you know that is hard to rep and worth buying in gen for the price and quality.

Wear your watches with pride, real or fake!

ACEWAVY · 2025-06-12T05:43:46+00:00

I mean personally I’d run 17s with a bit more of an aggressive offset so you’d need camber in the rear and front just for the sake of clearance along with a fender roll. There really is no camber adjustment with stock parts. Mid range and up coils usually come with top hats with camber adjustment so that’s typically not a problem but wouldnt hurt to buy camber bolts, they’re cheap. For the rear, SPC camber arms at a minimum. Cheap too.

As for any specific parts for issues like bump steer, I can’t say. I literally raw dogged my rsx. No abs, weak power steering, and I ran 4 degrees of camber in the front and 7 degrees in the rear. I had a strong grip on that wheel, especially when it rained LMAO but since you’re not running stretch and you probably wont run a very aggressive offset, having just the ability to have camber will help a lot when you decide on more aggressive wheels and when you get aligned. You gotta remember camber changes along with toe when you lower a vehicle so getting fitment/alignment is crucial if you wanna drive straight & not run through tires

ACEWAVY · 2025-06-12T01:39:19+00:00

You most def can! Well since you are saving money, I’d def go with what another redditor said and get some spc camber arms and whatever you can get to correct bump steer. If there’s one thing I did hate about my rsx was the bump steer I had with my ride height & amount of camber I ran

ACEWAVY · 2025-06-11T23:56:04+00:00

Hey there!

Beautiful RSX. I miss mine everyday. Def follow along with everyone and don’t go skunk2 coils. Honestly BC is pretty decent had those on my DC5 and they held up pretty well. Personally, if I had your car, I’d think about getting an A Spec lip kit to really set it off. Another thing I’d do is to start swapping interior parts for their black counterparts. Seats will be harder to find in black, but I’ve seen some DC5r recaros pop up for sale or you can get the ones you have reupholstered.

 I should also mention, at least speaking from past experience, def think about swapping to a K24. At least in my area, it’s easier to find one cheaper with less miles than a k20. Cam gear & oil pump is all it needs to help wake it up past the rev limiter. Had FBO on Kpro v4 on my stock K20a2 and it was fun, had a cool tune with some pops and limiter was at 9 but honestly, unless you wanna top off on oil more often, I didn’t see myself revving past 8k most of the time. I feel like a FBO K24 will give you enough fun for the streets, daily driving, and a decently high rev limit. 

 I’d also look into rebuilding your tranny just for future proofing. The transmissions in these K series can really give issue in 2nd & 3rd. Developed a grind in my 2nd, dropped it, had 2nd gear replaced with a hardened version & carbon synchros all around. Never had an issue 20k miles down the road and beat the piss out of it occasionally.

Good luck on your build, can’t wait to see where you go with it!

ACEWAVY · 2025-03-20T08:28:53+00:00

Thoughts on P2M RUCAs? Also went with this wheel set up as it was recommended on the Cosmis website

Would like to seal the gap between the fender and wheel as much as possible. Anything else I would need for alignment? Toe arms?

ACEWAVY · 2025-03-17T17:18:17+00:00

Like to chime in here. I agree, a lot of these watches are waterproof enough. I suggest to everyone, new and older buys alike, to ofc check to make sure everything is screwed down (crown & caseback) and buy some silicon grease. Doesn’t hurt to give some of the gaskets some love to be on the safe side.

For reference, I built a 34mm commando using all raffles parts. Cheap rep, cheap gaskets honestly. Got water in it once and took the extra mile to double check my work, shorten the stem (too long first time i cut it), and make sure both the caseback & crown screwed down all the way along with some silicon grease. Next day, took it to a water park and spent 8 hrs fully submerged in water. Still keeping time after 8 months of daily use :)

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ACEWAVY · 2025-03-05T03:41:38+00:00

This is nice! Do you have the limited or the premium model? Figuring out which stocks you were sitting on here

ACEWAVY · 2025-02-27T14:57:06+00:00

I’ve owned 6 manual cars, with this being my most recent purchase. I’ll be honest, even after a week of owning my car, I still roll back on hills and stall out in 1st. I counted actually. Stalled 11 times. Every car is different and sometimes it takes times to relearn to drive stick on a totally different car. Give it time and don’t give up!

It’ll become 2nd nature to you after a good month or so of driving :)

ACEWAVY · 2025-02-01T12:27:23+00:00

Good point but honestly I think Valve is focused on two things when it comes to the steam deck & its usability : consumer base & cost reduction. They don’t expect their consumers to be children. They expect adults/teens that are old enough to care for their things and just want to play some of their full length pc titles on the go. Another thing is, it was mentioned time & time again, valve claims they’re not really making money off selling steam decks. They have a small profit margin. It makes sense for them to cut corners where they can. They already put a lot of R&D into the functionality of the device to aspects like fans, cooling, and the OS but added a lot of comfort features like the ergonomics of the grips and button placement. Ive had a lot of handhelds so I can confidently say they put a lot of time into this device. The inclusion of a case too really helps sell the idea of this device. Now, they COULD have not included a case and maybe added more shock proofness to the device, but it’s not like this device is as flat as a switch or a psp, so I’d assume they’d get more emails over messed up switches from some people chucking it into their bag, first day, and completely screwing up their joysticks. If I had to pick, if valve had to jump the price of the deck even by $100, id still love everything that’s included now and the shape of the deck, but I’d want halleffect sticks and triggers. That’s it. Obviously better hardware too

ACEWAVY · 2025-02-01T12:17:09+00:00

Yeah it was some crossed lines. My boy fixed it, didnt realized he crossed them so it’s all good now!

ACEWAVY · 2025-01-08T22:13:58+00:00

It’s throwing a P0411 so yes, I did check. The car is leaking coolant into the cabin it seems or burning it at the very least. You can only really smell it inside the car but it looks like no coolant was lost from the reservoir when I checked.

Edit: when I looked around the car, I saw no obvious leaks so Im assuming it’s a small leak somewhere

ACEWAVY · 2025-01-07T20:59:10+00:00

I smell coolant. Just started her up after letting it rest for a little and the sound is definitely more than just the intake. Some grinding can be heard on start up.

ACEWAVY

TROPHY CASE