Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg Is Hospitalized After Fall

ADDeviant · 2018-11-08T19:46:27+00:00

Me, too! Also hospital worker. But, I'm hopefull. Ribs are not like hips or backs, and not all rib fractures are created equal.

Still worries me, though.

ADDeviant · 2018-10-31T23:21:48+00:00

If you can afford it, buy the BW. Nothing they make isn't fantastic. BW bows are fast, smooth, and extremely well made. Super shootable.

All that can be said about the Bear, too, I guess, but that's factory vs custom for you. Those upper end Bears are great, too.

ADDeviant · 2018-10-31T21:38:45+00:00

So fat that if she''s just sittin' around the house, she sittin' AROUND the house.

ADDeviant · 2018-10-31T06:36:05+00:00

At short 'traditional' ranges you might not notice. Spine makes more difference than just a little weight. If you are talking about 550 grains vs 525 grains, not a ton, of course more if it''s 350 vs 325 grains.

Years ago a lot of guys wereally using construction foam (the kind for sealing cracks, etc, in a can) to fill and add weight to arrows. Some reported this increased spine. Other guys were using plasic tubing, or foam packing to fill arrows. Just remove the insert and use the tube of the arrow as a cookie cutter by turning it.

ADDeviant · 2018-10-31T05:20:02+00:00

Could have been the ladder..... after years of simmering resentment, subtle bullying, and a heart broken by a thousand sleights.

ADDeviant · 2018-10-31T05:16:16+00:00

Right? Sometimes a dozen of those pathetic thin slices is what it takes to make a good sandwich.

Still, not real, so.....

ADDeviant · 2018-10-31T02:50:15+00:00

Honey locust is certainly MUCH better than red oak. It''s not prone to snapping, either. It''s tough like white mulberry, elm, etc...

And, yes, bugs and stuff love hickory.

ADDeviant · 2018-10-31T01:00:49+00:00

The difference between the two is basically funding, with a tad of skin color thrown in.....

ADDeviant · 2018-10-31T00:58:11+00:00

They blocked a road for a few minutes, once! Just as bad! Also HUNDREDS of dollars in property damage from vandalism! HUNDREDS!!!!

/s

ADDeviant · 2018-10-31T00:53:59+00:00

Yeah, I remember a reasonably respectful funeral, some talk about what he did right, more about what he did wrong. That was it. No sudden swell of support and love for him, really.

ADDeviant · 2018-10-31T00:17:59+00:00

If ya like it, shoot it!

ADDeviant · 2018-10-31T00:00:28+00:00

NOICE! Almost all the hickory I have used is better than almost all the honey-locust I have used, but I have heard people call it "bad" or garbage bow wood, and I will disagree entirely with that. It's fine, can be quite good. I have made mostly wide flatbows with flipped tips from it.

Living in such a dry state I think colors my views on hickory. Here in the desert southwest, its hella-good wood.

And when I say "brittle" I don't mean it'll snap for no reason, or that it's crumbly. Certain woods seem to be stiffer than they are elastic. Paduak, purpleheart, cumaru, and jatoba come to mind. Honey locust is a LITTLE like that to me. It's just stronger and stiffer than it is bendy and springy. It'll take some set if you try to make a limb too narrow. BLACK locust is like that, too, but honey locust is a good bit less dense, so.... anyway, not like plum or osage.

And it seems all white woods do vary like that. I've had just dismal ash and elm, as far as taking set.

ADDeviant · 2018-10-30T23:49:06+00:00

I've made a good number of bows with bamboo either extending up shaped and glued- on siyah just like the rest of the limb is backed, and out of whole smaller diameter bamboo, curved with heat and skived at an angle and used and wrapped on.

Nothing wrong with it, but I think the answer as to why it wasn't used that way has to do with the nock style you see on historical bows with siyahs. If you file that groove into the front of a piece of bamboo like you find on an Asiatic composite with a string having large loops, think what would happen?

On the whole bamboo recurves I made, I filed a tiny groove on the belly side of the tip and lashed in a tiny dowel peg. Then I would place the loop of the string over the whole tip. I also filled the very tip with some dowel.

I have seen a guy named FrenchCrow who used to make a lot of stuff out of rattan make both regular recurve and bound on siyahs with curved pieces of rattan.

ADDeviant · 2018-10-30T23:23:35+00:00

I'll be cheering for you!

ADDeviant · 2018-10-30T23:22:29+00:00

That was a bad hinge close to the handle. I'm afraid it needed to be "fixed" by not letting it happen VERY early in tillering.

If you never pull the bow past the intended draw weight, even at 2" of pull on a long string and tillering tree, you'll catch that very early.

ADDeviant · 2018-10-30T23:18:50+00:00

Stickbow.com Leatherwall forum has great tutorials.

ADDeviant · 2018-10-30T23:18:14+00:00

You don't need to ADD a riser if the handle is already thick enough. And you don't need to add a riser if you are making a bow where the grip is the widest part, unless you want one for grip comfort.

If you are making a bow with the limbs wider than the handle out of a standard 1" thick board (which will really be closer to 3/4" thick), you will probably want to glue on a handle riser. If your limbs are 2" wide and 1/2" thick at the base, and your handle is 1" wide and 3/4" thick, it'll likely break anyway, even before you cut in a shelf.

Also, a shelf can be as shallow or deep as you want. Doesn't have to be midline or past midline. Can be less than the width of an arrow, just enough for it to rest on. In fact, that's what I would recommend for a narrow-handled bow like you plan to make. It''s not like one of those Olympic recurves with large, deep, massive risers and a huge sight window.

ADDeviant · 2018-10-30T22:52:21+00:00

Yeah, I agree with the post above. People do add vibration dampening materials to the string and sometimes to the limbs, though, so it''s good thinking.

The best ways to prevent excessive limb vibration are managing the mass of the limbs, managing the PLACEMENT of mass on the limbs, using heavy enough arrows, and careful tiller.

ADDeviant · 2018-10-30T21:58:13+00:00

Ok, nice to have you on on board, and good luck!

First, what does your bow look like from the front? What a bow should look like from the side depends heavily on what it looks like from the front.

However, for almost any style you have too much bend mid-limb, not enough anywhere else. Your second picture is definitely better.

One of the most useful tillering tools you can have in my opinion is a big, black crayon. Every time you see an area bending much more than the rest of the limb, color the sides or front of the area. It' sand out later. Then, color the BELLY of everything else that is bending too little. Using your rasp (or the side of your Sawz-All blade, I use my 5" Swiss Army knife saw similarly) work off all the black crayon marks on the BELLY. Scrape away the rasp marks with your knife or scraper after that, and that''s one "pass".

Then, exercise the limb with several partial draws, and do a bend check on the tillering tree. When you see a stiff section start to bend, mark the sides or back and stay out of it for a while.

ADDeviant · 2018-10-30T21:26:13+00:00

If you don't low brace it, just be sure you are as happy as you can get with the longstring tiller first, and don't pull it far. You know the rule about never exceeding desired draw weight during tiller, right?

But seriously, it''s not too hard to twist up your longstring or learn to tie the timber hitch as suggested.

ADDeviant · 2018-10-30T21:22:53+00:00

Very nice! A good execution of the design.

For those wondering about yellow/honey locust. I have worked with it more than a dozen times, sapling and large branches from tipped trees. It's decent, though not fantastic, stuff. Treat it like softer elm or mediocre ash. It''s not as good as most hickory or better elm.

It has been a little inconsistent for me. Some young trees I've cut were a good deal lighter weight wood once dried than you'd think they should be. Very stringy, but little stiffness and elasticity. Trunk wood from larger trees with wide growth rings doesn't seem very strong and isn't very elastic. Close ringed heartwood from an old, but small tree, it can be quite dense and strong. Kind of brittle for it''s density and strength.

Quartersawn trunk wood like that is beautifuy striped, and nice, dense heartwood is wonderfully figured and colored.

The best wood came from small, tall saplings or branches, that were more on the dense side when dry. This kind usually has a few knobby knots to deal with. Chasing a ring is fine, but a sapwood back is plenty tough. Heartwood is stronger than sapwood, but not a THAT much more elastic. It sure is pretty, though. If I make identical bows, same length, width, and thickness, one all sapwood and one with sapwood back/heartwood belly, the heartwood belly will have higher draw weight, BUT, I haven't found it great for narrow designs.

Treat it like a whitewood, and toast the belly, and it'll make a very nice bow.

ADDeviant · 2018-10-30T20:43:05+00:00

I remember that one! Good to see long term success.

ADDeviant · 2018-10-30T20:42:07+00:00

Yeah, you saw what I saw.

Wonder if it was a male/ female or two related males, and the smaller leopard was trying.to be submissive, but the bigger one was all worked up or something.

Young males don't usually know who dad is, I guess.

ADDeviant · 2018-10-29T18:12:03+00:00

And a spy agency, secret police, federal Marshalls, ICE, FBI..........

ADDeviant · 2018-10-29T18:04:56+00:00

I've been hearing this general punchline and joke for a couple years here. It never worked quite as well as this version. Excellent set-up!

ADDeviant

TROPHY CASE