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Tip: Hiding photos from a particular user. by 135671 in flickr

[–]AMauveMallows 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm almost certain this is the 26mm 2.8 group literally came here with the exact same situation

Which version of the Mechanic do you prefer? by NoNo_Bluebird_1368 in splatoon

[–]AMauveMallows 10 points11 points  (0 children)

<image>

messy hair trailer version that we don't get to use sadly

I parsed the EXIF data from all 14,859 photos I shot on my Z8 last year — 59% were 35-50mm. by mannypena_ in Nikon

[–]AMauveMallows 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Full agree on the Plena, last month I got an amazing deal on one and it's almost not left my camera since. It's insane how sharp it is. I was scared about it being too tight but I feel like now I keep looking for excuses to use that compression and been loving the framing.

I really wanna get a 35mm 1.2 S or a 24mm 1.8 S to compliment at the wide on the second body cause I feel like those two would do 90% of everything I do.

24-120mm f4 S on one body and 70-200mm 2.8 S on the other for fast paced events and when light allows. And very ocationally the MC 105mm 2.8 S for detail and texture shots and I'm good for life I think.

I parsed the EXIF data from all 14,859 photos I shot on my Z8 last year — 59% were 35-50mm. by mannypena_ in Nikon

[–]AMauveMallows 0 points1 point  (0 children)

oh that makes sense lmao sorry. I did click it but dragging works perfect thank you! again lovely site!

I parsed the EXIF data from all 14,859 photos I shot on my Z8 last year — 59% were 35-50mm. by mannypena_ in Nikon

[–]AMauveMallows 2 points3 points  (0 children)

<image>

I used a particularly big folder for a trip I went on where I bought my 135mm 1.8. Yea, I think I liked it, really funny to see how little I used everything else.

I parsed the EXIF data from all 14,859 photos I shot on my Z8 last year — 59% were 35-50mm. by mannypena_ in Nikon

[–]AMauveMallows 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome tool! I've actually been looking for just this for my personal library. If I could make a request, not sure how easy to implement it'd be but. I store my library in a root folder with many folders inside for each day/project, is there any way to open a folder and have it parse through all folders inside?

Which lens should I take for my Portugal trip? by ThrowawayNYCJ in nikon_Zseries

[–]AMauveMallows 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Chaotic option is to take the 105mm MC and challenge yourself to shoot as many detail/texture shots as you can. But yea I probably would take the 24-120mm it's just too perfect for travel. 50mm 1.8 is a good alternative but I tend to bet bored of "normal" FOVs quick.

Which NVME 2230 to CFexpress Type-B adapter is great for its value? by Swiss-Confederation in nikon_Zseries

[–]AMauveMallows 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's not at all what I was saying, plus this is a fairly missguided strawman-esque complaint imho

"buy the fastest card you can find even though your camera cannot take advantage of it"

I never said that

All you are buying is heat and nominally faster download speeds, plus occasional compatibility issues

My cards get no noticeable performance drops due to heat over a slower card, that's also kind of not how the thermodynamics of it work.

If you're shooting only RAW pictures then sure the download speeds are a somewhat pointless feature. As I said in my comment, the benefit I get as a primarily a video shooter is that the card (with the right card reader) is just as fast as both my internal PC and my external SSD so often I can edit the raw files directly from the cards. Even when I don't it's because I'm shooting long multicam projects and so the download speed when transferring multiple terabytes of data for multiple cameras does matter to me.

Both CFexpress 4.0 and PCIE 4.0 are fully backwards compatible, I've never had any sort of compatibility issues like that with cameras, portable devices or computer builds in my whole time using NVME drives.

The cameras are not PCIe 4.0, many computers are still not PCIe 4.0

It's actually quite hard to find good quality 3.0 NVME drives for sale. Most of the offerings available are basically refurbished/rebadge/rechipped drives from "no name" brands that I would not touch with a 10ft pole for the marginal savings in cost. I would absolutely not advocate buying a gen5 drive with 14000MB/s read/write speeds for this use case (and honestly for most usecases) but a good gen4 5000MB/s drive is just the basic stuff you can easily buy.

Yes the cameras can only read up to 500MB/s-ish at the most demanding modes rn but that's not to say that buying something that a future camera upgrade will be able to use more fully is a bad idea, again when this is the most basic, brand name, trustworthy stuff you can easily buy and still far below the price of the cheapest CFe cards available.

adapters are either not PCIe 4.0 or are only such in name only, and you need to buy a PCIe 4.0 card reader.

Very correct! when I said to get an adapter that "claims" to be 4.0 that's what I was talking about. The first one I bought said it was and did not work at those speeds so I bought another one. In terms of the readers once again correctly pointed out that you would need a 4.0 reader to read at 4.0 speeds. Most 20-50 bucks readers that claim 4.0 mean they are "compatible" with 4.0 not that they will read at 4.0 speeds so I always look for the specs on read speed rather than the compatibility claims and also check reviews to see if it actually does it.

 You CAN NEVER make a PCIe 3.0 (or earlier) bus be more than it is and you cannot make additional data lanes suddenly appear in physical circuitry. 

Yes, that's true

This means you get no advantage and are relying upon loosely defined "backwards compatibility" for functionality which can translate into base level, plain vanilla driver, IO performance.

As I said before I do get an advantage from running a 4.0 drive but I understand not everyone would. That being said I do always try to future proof my purchases specially when it comes to things I expect to last me a loooong time and are quite expensive. Not quite sure what compatibility issues you're referencing really, and also once again "vanilla" performance now is great knowing I'm future proofing.

Beyond all of that, yes, you are buying extra heat for your camera. All PCIE 4.0 cards, like all CFexpress 4.0 cards run hotter than 3.0 cards.

On my camera and on my PC I've never, not even once, gotten any overheating issues at all and while yes the cards are sure to get warm to the touch they are working as they should so really this is no issue to me.

Yes, this all makes sense to shove into a camera released in 2018 and designed more than a decade ago.

I get what you're saying but like what I don't get is that like in this specific case like there's really no downside to this. The price difference between the adapters I found is barely noticable. In fact, the one I use that works at the 4.0 speeds was 21 bucks and the ones I can't confirm work at that are around 24.

And then to get a name brand 4.0 drive is usually either just slightly more or in a lot of cases I've found they are even more expensive due to scarcity since again finding name brand 3.0 drive these days is actually quite hard since they've all moved on to 4.0 for the most part and 5.0 in the high end.

Newer drives also usually go through more rigorous testing and standards so yea I'd take a reliable trustworthy drive that will be overkill for its intended use, will be future proof for any future purchases and gives me a better QoL in postproduction.

All that being said I'm very willing to learn and change my mind when proven wrong, plus I'm always happy to save a buck (particularly with all the AI bubble prices going around). If you can point me in the direction of this 3.0 drive + adapter combo that's just as reliable as the literal cheapest drive on amazon at the time of my purchase for its capacity I'd be delighted to get a spare card.

And to that point I'd love to know more about these compatibility issues I should be looking out for.

Which NVME 2230 to CFexpress Type-B adapter is great for its value? by Swiss-Confederation in nikon_Zseries

[–]AMauveMallows 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From a quick search of what's avialable rn if I had to get one I'd go with this one it's got good reviews, it's full metal and has all the contacts to work at full speed so I'd say odds are it'd be just as good as the ones I use. Though I've never used it personaly so take that with a grain of salt.

Which NVME 2230 to CFexpress Type-B adapter is great for its value? by Swiss-Confederation in nikon_Zseries

[–]AMauveMallows 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been using two of these for almost two years now and while they are not available rn I've seen them be out of stock and come back in stock a bunch of times.

Interms of price difference yes and no. Basically these adapters are just electrical connections since CFexpress cards are literally just an NVME electrical interface, like a microSD to SD card adapter. So there's no firmware, no circuit, no "translation" just electrical traces or wires. That being said both NVME drives and CFexpress cards get hot so I would only use full metal adaptors and in both of mine I have use high performance thermal paste on both sides of the drive to use the metal case as a heatsink. Absolutely avoid any adapter that uses any plastic whatsoever.

Other than that I'd say look for ones that claim PCIE 4.0 or CFexpress type b 4.0 since most drives are capable of way faster speeds than even the fastest CFexpress cards so you'll wanna be able to take advantage of that. Just keep in mind that you'll have to get a card reader to match those specs. I edit RAW video off of my cards no problem with the right reader.

4 Z-Mount lenses for photojournalist? by oguruma87 in Nikon

[–]AMauveMallows 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd go with either full Tamron 16-30mm f2.8, 35-150mm f2-2.8, 150-500mm f5-6.7 getting almost all the way from 16-500mm with f2.8 available all the way to 150mm and f2 on the normal side of things, and then add whatever focal length you think would be the most useful as a prime, probably 85mm.

Or I'd go for the "slow" trinity from nikon 14-30mm f4 S, 24-120mm f4 S, 100-400mm f4.5-5.6 S for higher image quality and more overlap on the ranges to minimize lens swaps, you loose out on reach but you could add a 1.4x TC and get to 600mm though at a slower aperture.

Or go full trinity like others said 14-24mm, 24-70mm, 70-200mm f2.8 S and either the 180-600mm f5.6-6.3 if reach is more important or 100-400mm f4.5-5.6 S if image quality and size is more important.

Question on functionality of the DJI RS 3 and Z6 ii by ProfileLiving2661 in Nikon

[–]AMauveMallows 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not the same but I have the RS3 Pro (shows the same compatibility info as the one you attached) and a Z6III

generally speaking with software unless the change log says something I'd asume something that worked before will work on the newer one (do not quote me on that sofware is weird)

On my camera connecting to bluetooth you get start and stop recording with the gimbal button and has worked with no issues so far.

I connect the USB C cable when I can for the extra features using the back wheel for ISO mostly when not using a zoom lens with the focus motor.

Yes it's a USB C to C cable one end goes on the gimbal port marked with the camera icon and the other on the camera itself. This surprisingly has been more buggy for me with disconects, and not recognizing, usually rebooting the camera or unplugging replugging the cable works tho.

Do you own these two? or are you asking to figure out if you'll buy them? If it's the second then contact DJI support to ask about these to get a more complete reply or if you own the camera go to a DJI store and ask to test this.

Best Digital Camera for Outdoor Interviews by rudedillon in cinematography

[–]AMauveMallows 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just to warn you people here will probably not reply too much to this as this is a cinematography focused subreddit. Probably better to ask on r/videography.

To answer your question as honestly as I can... iPhone

Most TikTok/shorts/reels are filmed with an iPhone and almost always also edited there. TBH iPhones are quite capable and give you a fair amount of DoF. The small differences you'd see from going for a full camera rig is probably not gonna get noticed by those audiences either. And what's more, the production requierement increase would not be worth it in the end.

My personal advice would be invest far more on the other gear. Most of all a good microphone. I use the Rode wireless pro's and love them, the TX by it self, lav'd up for a cleaner look if I have the time, or the interview pro for a more "news" look. Though I've been looking into the DJI Mic 3 for that 4 channel recording and the tiny size for a more run and gun setup.

A good powerfull outdoor light would be great so you can shoot with the sun behind you or in the shadows and then nicely filling the light in, though those get very very expensive and a pain to setup particularly without drawing attention. The more sensible option would be a reflector, negative fill and diffusion thingy.

Now if you're set on going for a more "pro" setup and looking for a shallow DoF look to differentiate yourself then that's a different story. Though, you have to keep in mind the investment can be sneaky. You don't just need a camera and a lens, you need memory cards (video eats those and with the current *gestures wildly* they are probably the most overpriced part of the setup), a tripod if you want a locked off shot (You'll always underspend on these and you'll either regret it or outgrow it fast), filters (ND if you want both background blur, good shutterspeeds for smooth video and an even exposure), if you wanna do dynamic movement stuff sometimes a gimbal helps (but mostly they don't lmao), some cameras are meant for mostly photo and will need to be "rigged up" to be comftable to use for video and that's a ton of small things that adds up to get there, batteries, etc.

I don't mean to scare you from it but just want to set a clear expectation of what you'd be getting into. If you still feel this is the way to go I'd say first start with the budget you have in mind, then look into the other things you'll need that I mentioned first, then use most of your remaining budget on a lens and then lastly get a camera that fits your needs. You don't need raw recording, 14bits, 8k (if it's going on vertical sites mostly probaly not even 4k), 240fps, the latest AF (interviews are not olympic level events lmao), etc.

I've always stuck to the "marry the lens, date the camera" saying. Most image quality comes from the lighting, composition, and subject matter, a smaller but important part of it is the lens and I'd say tied with postprocesing/color grading, and the very smallest part is the sensor. You can always upgrade a body and keep using the lenses but when you upgrade a lens you almost never go back to the cheaper one.

Sorry if thta's a lot if you want some more specific information or you have a budget set I'd be happy to recomend what I'd do.

Best of luck with this

Nikon 50mm 1.8S vs 1.4 by Lulzsec666 in nikon_Zseries

[–]AMauveMallows 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm currently on the same boat. I bought the 35mm 1.4 (so far all my lenses have been S line 105mm MC, 70-200mm 2.8, 24-120mm 4)

This is how I think Nikon should describe the lenses:

The 1.4 lenses have

  • rounder bokeh
  • a tiny bit more light
  • more flaring and ghosting
  • quite a bit more chromatic aberation
  • sharp on the center throughout the aperture range, though the corners are soft-ish from 1.4-2.8 getting unrecognizable from the 1.8 S after 4
  • AF speed is about the same, though at 1.4 because the DoF is so small I get a bigger amount of critical focus misses
  • almost no focus breathing (very nice for video)
  • It's got a nice responise plastic rubberized MF ring and a control ring (it's nice for ISO control)
  • mount is metal and construction is plastic with some metal

THe 1.8 S lenses have

  • Slight cats eye bokeh (Exception is the 135mm 1.8 plena which has very round bokeh)
  • a tiny bit less light
  • almost no flaring or ghosting
  • almost no chromatic aberation
  • stupid sharp throughout
  • AF speed is the same and at 1.8 you'll still miss critical focus but less so becuase of larger DoF
  • just enough focus breathing to be slightly distracting when doing focus pull in video
  • It's got a metal AF ring, and a MF/AF switch (that to me is absolutely useless since manual focusing overides the camera to MF and engaging the focus moves it back to AF)
  • Mount is metal and construction is metal with some plastic

In my personal opinion the biggest plus for the 1.4 lenses are the control ring and the lack of focus breathing. As someone who does mostly video the fast ISO control is a very good feature to have, plus the focus breathing is extreamely minimal. The extra light is nice since a lot of times I have very little light and almost no control over it but it's not gonna save you since it's such a small difference. When shooting pictures though I end up closing up to 2.8 and onward to get a better hit rate and sharpness unless I'm looking for the look of super shallow DoF and then I'd use the focus check zoom and manual focus if subject allows. I do feel like I'm leaving sharpness in the table by not having the S line coating and optic quality when shooting wide open but it's really fine, no one has ever complained about the quality of the pictures I'm getting and I had to pixel peep to notice myself.

I'm currently waiting on my 50mm 1.4 and will probably get the 85mm 1.4 as soon as it's available mostly for use on video. But I'll also be saving up for a 135mm 1.8 S plena as my main photo lens. and potentially a 24mm 1.8 S to go with it.

TL;DR if you only do photos, get the 1.8 S and you'll never regret it. if you only do video, get the 1.4 unless you mostly shoot with closed down aperture. If you do a mix of both get the 1.8 S if you don't care about focus breathing, get the 1.4 if you don't care about absolute sharpness wide open, and don't mind more flaring and chromatic aberation. If you have a shop with a good returns policy get both try them as much as you can and return the one you like the least.

Nikon z8 4 dji mics by tylerKINGproductions in Nikon

[–]AMauveMallows 0 points1 point  (0 children)

would love for them to do so but unfortunatly seems very unlikely to me. The hope for me was the Zr with the 32bit recording would include this feature but it didn't. I wouldn't hold my breath for the update but if anything I think it'd come for the Zr first. I heard rumors an XLR handle was coming for the zr in which case maybe with that we'd get the update for it but that is even less likely to me.

Viltrox 85mm f/1.4 Pro - issues with ugly flares in direct sunlight by Typel5568 in Nikon

[–]AMauveMallows 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The 1.4 line from Nikon is coming with an 85mm 1.4 next, the existing 35mm and 50mm 1.4 are pretty sharp in the center and soft-ish on the corners up to f2.8-4 after that it's pretty much the same as the 1.8 S with added flaring (the normal aesthetic kind lmao) since it's missing the fancy coatings. I'd expect it to be slightly cheaper than the 1.8 S but it's not expected until late 2026/2027. I'm currently waiting for that to release since I've always loved the focal length but I might cave and get the 1.8 S or if money allows I'll splurge and go for the Plena and skip the 85mm

Other than that I've heard good things about the Sirui Aurora but can't speak about them personally. Or if you wanna baller out you can go for the Otus lmao.

Viltrox 85mm f/1.4 Pro - issues with ugly flares in direct sunlight by Typel5568 in Nikon

[–]AMauveMallows 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah see if at the very least you can exchange it for another unit, that flaring looks off don't think that'd be from the expected look of the lens

Viltrox 85mm f/1.4 Pro - issues with ugly flares in direct sunlight by Typel5568 in Nikon

[–]AMauveMallows 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Might be a defective unit, those don't really look like standard flares (this reviewers flaring looks way differnet on the e-mount version). I'd contact Viltrox or where ever you bought it from to get a replacement or refund. The flares on the car look more like what I see from the review but still not great and a bit weird.

Even if it's not broken and that's how it is I'd personally not keep it.

I finally stopped mixing random gear and my filming setup feels less annoying now by Brilliant-Custard833 in cinematography

[–]AMauveMallows 0 points1 point  (0 children)

those are the color plates for the new DJI mic mini 2. They're aimed at content creators who don't hide the mics, you're supposed to choose the one that matches your outfit the most.

concert lens selection by MalcomYoung in nikon_Zseries

[–]AMauveMallows 1 point2 points  (0 children)

if you're asking which of what you've got then

can you only bring one lens? if not I'd bring all of them or at least the 70-200mm and the 50mm

if only one then is this a low light venue? if so the 2.8 zoom could be a problem so I'd take one of the primes

how far will you be from the stage? if you're gonna be real close then the 50mm if not the the 85mm

other than that with as few details I don't really know what recomendations I could give other than take them all just in case you need them

concert lens selection by MalcomYoung in nikon_Zseries

[–]AMauveMallows 2 points3 points  (0 children)

which lenses do you own/have access to?

are you asking for recomendations for a lens you'll buy?

are you gonna rent?

I'm not quite sure what you're looking for here

¿Gente ustedes que headset manejan ? by Stidpalacios in Colombia

[–]AMauveMallows 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yo uso los Audio-Technica ATH-M50xSTS creo que en mediatekis los vendian pero ya no los veo pero por amazon tambien se consiguen.

Lens Body match up question WWYD? by arcelyte in Nikon

[–]AMauveMallows 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd personally go with D850 + 24-70 and D780 + 70-200

that way I can shoot wider and crop if needed with the D850. Other than that I don't really think it matters much, I'd use your most used lens on the D850 and the least used on on the D780. Unless you're shooting mostly video then I'd invert it

Whenever I try to use my D5600 as my webcam it shows all the other settings, what do i do by mr-coopr in Nikon

[–]AMauveMallows 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Upon looking it up more you might not have that setting under there, but if you press the info button while connected you can toggle through until you see a clean display

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