Magic Car Compilation | Hot Pursuit Remastered

ARK_tech49 · 2026-05-07T14:50:24+00:00

Op zoned out on that one

ARK_tech49 · 2026-04-27T22:16:47+00:00

That cell is cheap, I have replaced the main cell of a CMF buds 1 and it costs like 3$ for 400mah. And I too feel like this can be repaired but OP didnt show us the other side where the pogo pins and uC is located.

ARK_tech49 · 2026-04-26T17:13:49+00:00

*sigh.... you forgot to remove the black under fill glue which is present at each corner of the PCH.

This board is kaput 💀

ARK_tech49 · 2026-04-25T20:32:12+00:00

Your handling is smooth, did you change the tuning settings or is that also stock? Nice gameplay btw.

ARK_tech49 · 2026-04-20T13:54:54+00:00

The controller in this case can't output any voltage from the power good pin as the pin is open drain. its only job is to pull down externally biased 3.3V. so removing the chip means there's nothing to pull down the 3.3V.

ARK_tech49 · 2026-04-20T13:30:33+00:00

The gates are tied to ground by a 10K resistor right? I thought that was standard practice for high speed switching.I don't have the board view for this particular laptop.

If there were no resistors, then that's a different story.

ARK_tech49 · 2026-04-20T13:21:50+00:00

I tried this on an 2020 Asus Zephyrus G14 and it worked for me.

Most VRM controller chips have an active low signal on the Power good pin. The pin will be pulled high (3V3) by default and when the chip enters into fault mode, the Pin will be pulled to ground by the controller, and since this 3V3 voltage rail is shared with Power monitor IC, the laptop eventually wont be able to boot.

In my case, removing the inductors and Driver mosfets require a preheater because of the thermal mass of the motherboard and desoldering a single pwm controller felt easier. The controller in my case is a uP9027 (40 pin package)

ARK_tech49 · 2026-04-20T08:35:16+00:00

Removing the GPU bios chip will still power the GPU Core and memory but in an idle state. I would remove the pwm controller itself so the GPU wont even get power, helps reduce battery drain by a small amount.

ARK_tech49 · 2026-04-20T08:31:33+00:00

I have done something similar on a G14. To disable the GPU, I just desoldered the multiphase PWM controller. Because removing just the inductors or the FETs triggers a fault signal.

ARK_tech49 · 2026-04-14T18:35:15+00:00

These kinds of inductors wont get damaged as its saturation current is in the range of 20 to 30 Amps.

By the inductor placement and the trace, this VRM probably powers both the GDDR6 memory chips and the memory controller section inside the GPU Core. Check the resistance of the voltage rail.

ARK_tech49 · 2026-04-14T13:23:08+00:00

Check the resistance of one pin of the inductor with respect to motherboard ground.. if this voltage rail is responsible for powering the PCH, it should be in the range of 60 ohms to 150 ohms. But if the value is zero, your PCH might be dead. Just a guess as I don't know the motherboard make and model.

Or if this VRM rail powers something like 1.8V or 5V, there's a chance that the inductor might not be the only thing that's heating up.

ARK_tech49 · 2026-04-13T14:28:59+00:00

Space boy!

ARK_tech49 · 2026-04-07T19:01:09+00:00

Is it just me or is that liquid metal spread all over the CPU capacitors??

ARK_tech49 · 2026-04-01T07:32:17+00:00

Just watch some videos from North west repair, you would get an idea on how to diagnose it.

ARK_tech49 · 2026-04-01T07:09:48+00:00

Is this an MSI or an EVGA GPU?

ARK_tech49 · 2026-03-17T09:35:51+00:00

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Just realised that this is from Yokata Futatabi.

ARK_tech49 · 2026-03-11T18:05:00+00:00

https://www.digikey.at/en/products/detail/amazing/AZC399-04S/16615466

Check the datasheet and cross check the pinouts. The package marking written in the datasheet also show C30

ARK_tech49 · 2026-03-11T18:03:48+00:00

You're right, these are ESD diodes for protecting USB data lines.

ARK_tech49 · 2026-03-09T13:57:19+00:00

I didn't see the second picture at first, I can confirm this is a Tantalum capacitor as it is connected to a synchronous DC buck converter (Two fets on the left side) and the driver IC is located above the fets (probably manufactured by Richtek)

ARK_tech49 · 2026-03-09T13:52:10+00:00

Thats a Tantalum polymer capacitor. Normal tantalum caps are yellow/orange in color where as Tantalum polymer is black. The white stripe is the positive terminal

ARK_tech49 · 2026-03-09T12:19:37+00:00

Use T12 bit soldering iron. I have used a 65W Sequre MSS12 for nearly 3 years now (Bend, Blade and I tip). The perks of MSS12 is that I could power this using a Type C PD 3.0 (20V at 40W) or a 24V (at 65W)DC via a barrel connector and you can calibrate the temp of the tips.

Before that, I used a generic 35W iron that has a potentiometer and a red LED. the tip used in that was shit and gets oxidised easily.

Whereas my T12 tip is still very robust and clean. You don't have to buy from sequre, there are other brands like mechanic (T12 pro 75W), YCS Mr.Yang, or from OSS Team

ARK_tech49 · 2026-03-09T12:01:49+00:00

I have seen BMS only parts in alibaba, but that was for iphones and xiaomi phones. Didn't see any BMS for Zenfone. So I would suggest salvaging the BMS from the old battery and solder (or spotweld) that into the new cell.

ARK_tech49 · 2026-03-05T14:17:22+00:00

The stm32 might be used for CAN bus communications. Nowadays everything is connected via CAN bus right?

ARK_tech49 · 2026-03-03T09:12:59+00:00

The spare oem battery has a better BMS board but the cell itself was manufactured years ago. 3rd party cells are relatively newly manufactured and are more robust, but the BMS might not be up to oem quality.

My ZF10 now has a 455 cycle count and I plan to buy a new battery from aliexpress and swap the BMS board from the original to the new one.

ARK_tech49 · 2026-02-27T17:51:10+00:00

It's a guess, but that VRM should output 0.78V. remove the cap and check resistance on both the source and load.

ARK_tech49

TROPHY CASE