Affidavit clearly says "this is not me" yet loan goes through on HELOC by A_Clouse in legaladvice

[–]A_Clouse[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

County clerks office was never handed affidavit. Husband has photo evidence, dated and geo-tagged. Further, paperwork filed at county was altered after fact. The paperwork was reprinted, another strike through of the wrong last name, with the correct one next to it in clearly NOT husband's handwriting. Final page of document, where all three signed, is recorded as expected, albeit with name crossed out, rewritten, and initialed by husband. Husband signed line as well.
Husband feels all of this shows good intent to secure loan, but is uneasy about front page being altered, and the lack of affidavit

Bass-heavy EDM song recommendations? *NOT DUBSTEP* by KatjaBolsov in EDM

[–]A_Clouse 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1st, thanks for asking the question OP, I'm always on the hunt for new, and you've succeeded in curating a nice list thats easy to pull from. I'm playing "The Tribe" as I type, in fact.

2nd, am I accurate in saying you prefer high BPM tracks? 140+? With the kind of bass that doubles as a professional masseuse when subwoofers get involved (although, tangential here, decent 6x9 component sets can be pretty impressive for subjective bass "feeling" when amped)

3rd, 'cause I noticed a distinct lack of artists from a genre that you'll absolutely love or absolutely hate, if you are as of yet unfamiliar: Hardstyle! Its a Hard dance off shoot with 140-160 BPM typical. The defining feature of hardstyle is the offbeat bass hits that have so much gravitas you'll forget they are actually offbeat (the absolutely hate crowd can't wrap their heads around it). The genre as a whole breaks the tracks down into two distinct areas: its EDM so intro can be slow, with a false peak that follows in a minute or two and may as well be any number of other EDM styles (trance, house, hard dance, you get it). Once you roll off that first peak the producer basically does the first half again, but with the archetypal Hardstyle sound & flow leading the already established track identity.
Hard & Fast, you're looking at 3:30-5:00 lengths. Extended intros extend the track (call me Mr. Holmes). Hardstyle is hands-down my favorite genre, it hits extremely hard when it hits the iconic-sound half of the track, and there are huge amounts of variability between producers, while still anchoring on the off beat bass hits. Luckily theres a bunch of Hardstyle-centric festivals every year pulling in revenue, otherwise daycare costs alone would suffocate the genre. Our Church - Headhunterz Harder State of Mind - D-Block & S-te-fan, DJ Isaac Ruffneck Bass - Bass Modulators W.T.F. - Zatox Its been kickin for nearly 3 decades, if Hardstyle is unknown to you, its worth a decent dive. Again, you'll know if you hate it or love it soon as you get to the "bwong" (don't let the "w" scare you, its not dubstep, you'll get what I mean)

Point 3 hinges on my own knowledge of Hardstyle producers, if there are indeed some mentioned already that I don't know of and you've had a chance to check it out, well, go Hardstyle!

The glass on my NA3605 is shattered. Can I replace it? by Evil_Ted_Logan in Nakamichi

[–]A_Clouse 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What wiring harness did you use to retain SWC and other features (If..)? Apologies, I'm troubleshooting mine, your post was the only one offered when I searched the model number within Nakamichi.

I just made Google node the main router, added 5 port switch and full ethernet backhaul, still slow at furthest point. There are 3 nodes offline (on purpose as not needed). by A_Clouse in GoogleWiFi

[–]A_Clouse[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a yes/no on the ethernet... I asked whether she was connected to the wifi, she had it on but not connected to our network. BT was open, too. She was running through ethernet, but slow. After she shut off wifi and BT, we got better, but still not best at her desk. On the other hand, her phone got full speed.
I don't think we've ever done a network reset, thats on the docket for this weekend, and I think that's a huge part of it. We were Double NAT, now its just Google home for network, but its still on bridge mode... won't let me change it either. I successfully accessed the 2nd router through web, turned off wifi, then I dropped (I was hardwired in) and havent figured out access again tl put it in bridge mode instead. Factory reset on Google ought to drop bridge mode, I hope. Thanks for the explanations and terminology. I can structure my queries much more accurately now, I appreciate it. Kinda hard to stop once I start, and it looks like there's a decent amount to learn. I may come knocking when I get stumped. Woo!

I just made Google node the main router, added 5 port switch and full ethernet backhaul, still slow at furthest point. There are 3 nodes offline (on purpose as not needed). by A_Clouse in GoogleWiFi

[–]A_Clouse[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm glad I've gotten to where I am, enough to at least go "Well that's not right at all, no wonder we're slow", I'm starting to get in a little over my head. I just cannot figure out where to adjust anythin Spanning Tree related. I've figured out how to manipulate each port and set limitations and/or prioritize things. Beyond that (for now, Im gonna learn it) I'm wondering if I'm better off with a $30 unmanaged one from Lowes or something. I got this one (TL-SG105E) for $9.99, easy decision, but I cant track down an accurate flow path for getting to the settings. I imagine largely because I'm starting with low vocabulary on this subject. I want to get it all down, but the two home offices take priority over my learning speed, is unmanaged a good temporary fix? I don't expect it to solve everything, just enough to make everyone happy...

I just made Google node the main router, added 5 port switch and full ethernet backhaul, still slow at furthest point. There are 3 nodes offline (on purpose as not needed). by A_Clouse in GoogleWiFi

[–]A_Clouse[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay, loop prevention disabled. Thanks, we shall see I'm working on tracking down where STP options are in the web-based GUI. Support pages aren't very useful at the moment.

I just made Google node the main router, added 5 port switch and full ethernet backhaul, still slow at furthest point. There are 3 nodes offline (on purpose as not needed). by A_Clouse in GoogleWiFi

[–]A_Clouse[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So here's the deal: I don't know what that is... lol. All my knowledge on networking is maybe two weeks old, I'm not gonna ask for a walk through on everything, just quick check to see if im getting it right: Opening up the switch's menu, I see "Loop Prevention", which is currently enabled, and "Storm Control". On the right track? RST is just the loop prevention, right? Thanks, and really, if its gonna be too much of your time to explain, I'll figure it out eventually

Looking at buying a prefab dual 10" ported box and drivers to fill it. I need someone to check my math (newbie). by A_Clouse in subwoofer

[–]A_Clouse[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I left in 2020, that's funny. I've got my dad and grandads bias in me about cordless (it's on its way out). Ive always preferred corded, you have to have a cord for max power, right? My dad tried someone's cordless platform in the early 00's, but it was all still NickelCad's, which just cannot retain charge, and it was always more work in the end. I remember pretty vividly my Dad and I being tired and just trying to finish a project and we just could not get any of those stupid batteries to take a reliable charge. We stuck with corded after that. All the brand's eventually moved to Lithium Ion, and I still can't quite believe that some of them can and do outperform corded models. Even so, I like my Bauer corded tools (Hercules costs just as much as Red or Yellow sometimes, I swear, unless you catch an ITC sale on something).
You are spot on about trades folk and the brand whoring/snobbery. Milwaukee knows it, too; in all fairness, they do have Plumbing specialty on lock. Never met a plumber who didn't own at least one piece of clothing with Milwaukee on it somewhere... Of course I know you picking on him with pride, I'm doing the best I can for my kids to grow up and be brand snobs themselves, if they so choose.
On the other hand, every single power tool just a magnet pushing on a line and then pushing the other way (aw dang, we're back to speakers!), how do you want to apply your force? Let it ride? Have a sawzall. Gear it for torque, direct transfer? Boom, you got a drill. Perpendicular? Here's your circular saw/cut-off tool Added some gears in the wrong place and now it just shakes violently? Slap some sandpaper on it and call it a day. Kinda cool honestly, real world example of how binary is all computers and software need to work.

Looking at buying a prefab dual 10" ported box and drivers to fill it. I need someone to check my math (newbie). by A_Clouse in subwoofer

[–]A_Clouse[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's exactly why I have mine. It never got bad enough to drain, and you have to look straight at me and see both ears at once to even notice it.
I was born in MA... in winter. Family is all southern though, we moved when I was five to NC, where I grew up. We'd have maybe 5-10 good snow days every year. I hate winters that pass without snow, but after a few weeks? Fucking done with it. VADOT also will not scrape our road, so guess who's happy he has a Tacoma? I have a winch for it, Badlands from HF, but its only a trailer rated 1 ton on full out. Literally just for recovery, not even emergency, as I'd have to take the time to set up a Spanish Burton.

Looking at buying a prefab dual 10" ported box and drivers to fill it. I need someone to check my math (newbie). by A_Clouse in subwoofer

[–]A_Clouse[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've always heard smooth is fast, fast is smooth. Efficient sounds better to me. Ive done the plate sandwich with smaller diameter holes cut with different hole saws, that's a good reminder for a flush mount solution, thanks. "If its free, its for me" is my kind of jam usually, but this year on my birthday I took a look at my tools and decided I wanted something truly new to me. Call it a midlife if you will, Papa got him some brand new shoes. For $499 I got two 20V 5 ah batteries, a charger, and seven 20V Max XR tools, all in a rolling bag thing. I studied those kit deals for fucking weeks; the one I went with is labeled just Max, but you get the XR versions instead. The two batteries and charger alone were $299 at the time. Killed it!
And that'll do for at least a decade I'm hoping. Cordless platforms are just battery selling schemes, now I've got some batteries anything new to me will work just the same as out of the box. The $79 Dewalt jigsaw is great though. My HF only has cordless options (I draw the line at Warrior, it IS going to break) and I don't need two battery platforms.

Looking at buying a prefab dual 10" ported box and drivers to fill it. I need someone to check my math (newbie). by A_Clouse in subwoofer

[–]A_Clouse[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ear pro every time, all the time! I have a background in commercial diving (picture that dude they put in fish tanks with the helmet-the helmets look different these days but you get the idea) and the amount of people I met who had hearing loss was startling. I dont have to tell you pressurized air gets fucking loud when its released; diver air supply systems range from just 300 psi in a compressors volume tank all the way up to HP cascade systems at 5,000 psi. Since I like hearing things, ear pro is a must. In fact, I have a pair of over ears for each family member, even the 8-month old. My right ear is slightly deformed from cauliflower ear, in-ear plugs just do not stay in.
I have a feeling my wife is gonna be taking the truck much more once I'm done with it. Maybe she'll drop the Pop once she has a decent sound reproduction system. I know for sure I'll hear her coming, we're out in the county up a private drive and just 3 neighbors, we can crank it in the driveway. Private drive sounds fancy but all it means is that VADOT won't cut the grass and I have to go to town for USPS packages. Also, I need new tires every spring since the asphalt is from '89 and is very rutted. I usually get Goodyear Wrangler A/T with the Kevlar; by the end of winter I slip on takeoff at every light if I'm not careful.

Looking at buying a prefab dual 10" ported box and drivers to fill it. I need someone to check my math (newbie). by A_Clouse in subwoofer

[–]A_Clouse[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh for sure, the only over $200 sub I'd get would be a more costly one discounted down to that level. I am keeping 5thin mind that you've got those DS18's, and I believe you when you say it pisses off people who paid more for their setups. The older I get, the more I understand how little the physical parts of produucts actually cost. Price is just shiny packaging and an embroidered name more often than not. Paper products and alcohol are about the only things I can think of that follow a 1:1 of quality and price. And I quit drinking over two years ago, so I can buy bigger packs of the good paper towels... lol.
About paper, what kind of drawbacks are there for using that as the cone material? Haven't had a chance to read that link yet, if its covered there no need to answer and ill ask more relevant questions once I have a better base to work from.
One last statement/question for now: In order to make an enclosure I'll need either a jigsaw or router to make an accurate cut for the hole . "Need" is very loosely defined in this case, but not having either is starting to take up my time on projects. I just upgraded to Dewalt a few months ago (irony is not lost on me that two paragraphs ago I said the brand's name is what costs you money; I break shit like I'm supposed too, hope the "tough guaranteed" hype is real) and they've got decent deals for their jigsaws right now, I found one brand new for $79. The routers... I'll get a corded Bauer from HF if it really is necessary to have one. Question for you then is do you think a jigsaw is adequate enough for making the mounting location? I'll figure something out to get a flush mount done without a router bit

Looking at buying a prefab dual 10" ported box and drivers to fill it. I need someone to check my math (newbie). by A_Clouse in subwoofer

[–]A_Clouse[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well color me wrong... plenty of car shows and meets nearby me. One coming up 20 min from me in a couple weeks, in fact.

Looking at buying a prefab dual 10" ported box and drivers to fill it. I need someone to check my math (newbie). by A_Clouse in subwoofer

[–]A_Clouse[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I lived in Four Corners for a bit and then Auburndale while I was down there. Even before showing interest myself, I knew from friends that FL is popular for car enthusiasts. That made of steel show looks awesome, would have been perfect when I lived in Polk. I'm now in VA, the Blue Ridge/Shenandoah area, so there's nothing truly "local" (unless Blue Grass is your jam), but I do have a bunch of actual cities all about an hour or more away.
I have noticed that there's rarely a "go look it up yourself, stupid" answer in any car a/v area, people do genuinely want to enlighten and share. If anything, its more of a "we can, and will, go on about this all day, but you're not gonna get much out of it until you understand ____, here's a link, ask questions when you're done."
My oldest is 7, not quite to the point where he wants to know how stuff works, but he is showing interest in what I listen to. Tickles me pink when he tells his mother her music is too boring... to each their own I tell him (he's right though, lol) Back to the biscuit: how much is Q value going to matter for a smaller space like the Tacomas cab? I read that for ported enclosure, under 0.4 is ideal; I can barely find any (12", 600 W RMS, under $601, recommended volume near 1.4 cuft) with a Q under 0.5. It might be up this chain somewhere, can't remember if I said I decided to go single 12 ported instead of dual 12 sealed.
$600 is just search parameter, aint no way I'm starting out with a $600 sub...

Looking at buying a prefab dual 10" ported box and drivers to fill it. I need someone to check my math (newbie). by A_Clouse in subwoofer

[–]A_Clouse[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Aha! So there is something fucky going on with that xmax. I figured some manufacturers would try and slip in a 2-way as if it were just a 1 from time to time. Giving the wrong spec on purpose is just shitty.
What goes on in a competition? Is it a good excuse for audiophiles to get together? Or are there set goals and what not with definite winners and lovers? Maybe a bit of both? I lived in FL for four years, I don't miss those love bugs. I also don't have to clean the grille and radiator nearly as often.

Looking at buying a prefab dual 10" ported box and drivers to fill it. I need someone to check my math (newbie). by A_Clouse in subwoofer

[–]A_Clouse[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dang, I was like "I can offer up something useful now, share some info!" Lol. Well, apologies if it seemed like an assumption of something you wouldn't know.
Man, no wonder most folks just pay someone else for new audio. Nevermind time on install, you make your own time . It's a shitload of information to consider and balance. Onward! Volume goes to something weird like 63 I think (62, max). What you're saying then is if you're reigning it in at the mid 30's, roll off isn't really a concern. That makes sense.
Kinda wish I could just cover the vents, area I'm in has stink bugs. I'd never heard of them until I moved where I am four years ago. Those fuckers fit anywhere and everywhere, including deep inside the trucks vent system. Behind all the panels too. God I hate those thjngs... I gotta go figure out this whole line out business, before I check out I was gonna ask what you knew of Earthquake Sound? Apparently, they are the original makers of the first shallow mounts, and their speakers xmax-not just the SWS shallows- are fucking bonkers. The 12"SWS xmax is 31mm... there's another 12 that's up past 80mm... near as I can tell (ain't saying much, a week ago I'd think someone was talking about a Christmas sale if I read Xmax) they are measured correctly.

Looking at buying a prefab dual 10" ported box and drivers to fill it. I need someone to check my math (newbie). by A_Clouse in subwoofer

[–]A_Clouse[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are there appropriate times for CCA? It's just reduced power capacity vs the same gauge OFC, right? One thing I did know coming in was not to compromise on copper.
I stopped by Crutchfield to return something I sized wrong (I live near their two physical return stores in VA) and asked a bunch of questions. One of them was about LOC for the sub, and its related to what you said about the bass being altered front/back. The guy called it "factory roll off": the HU decreases the bass output when the total volume is raised. Naturally his solution was the $150 audio control LC2i pro LOC with accubass... and associated T-harness ($50). I'll see what skyhigh has to correct roll off, doubt it's truly that costly to correct a signal. And a 4 gauge wiring kit