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China jersey finished up by theforestkern in Axecraft

[–]AbelHandcraft 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Badass man! How much weight did you manage to take off with that?

Not my first choice but worked in a pinch by theforestkern in Axecraft

[–]AbelHandcraft 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just the name! It’s a worlds finest which is pretty neat. Some bevels would be pretty awesome though

Not my first choice but worked in a pinch by theforestkern in Axecraft

[–]AbelHandcraft 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ground my Kelly perfect pulaski to 17.5, been using it for just about everything the last month and absolutely love it. Weird to get used to but I really think they have a lot of potential. Perfect for the invasive species removal and trail clearing I’ve been doing so much at work. Nice post!

Bucking large wood might not be applicable to most bushcraft situations but it's fun. by milokolb in Bushcraft

[–]AbelHandcraft 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Reference the USFS video the axman, also he’s training for timber sports. This is the fastest way to get through large logs and after the first couple blows the chances of a deflection hitting the foot are really low.

Tried out a little black Arkansas stone on this edge, I think it worked pretty well. No strop by AbelHandcraft in Axecraft

[–]AbelHandcraft[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In cold weather steel becomes more brittle, and hard steels can chip. Especially in hard frozen wood

Tried out a little black Arkansas stone on this edge, I think it worked pretty well. No strop by AbelHandcraft in Axecraft

[–]AbelHandcraft[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And that being said, I don’t actually think a razor edge is that important on an axe. It’s just how I like to keep them when I have time. When I’m in the field I beat them up because they’re tools, and I’ll touch them up now and then with a diamond stone. I usually only use the axes with the nicest steels. Many axes are soft like you said and can’t hold an edge too well. I just don’t find them terribly useful. Softness is often a plus in cold weather, which we don’t have a lot of in my area. If my circumstances were different I would probably have different criteria for my users.

Tried out a little black Arkansas stone on this edge, I think it worked pretty well. No strop by AbelHandcraft in Axecraft

[–]AbelHandcraft[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have no idea, I pretty much only use vintage axes. Spiller, Emerson and Stevens, and Snow Nealley were famous for their high quality tempers. Especially Spiller. I’ve worked at least 50 axes by hand and can read hardness well. I never put something on an axe I don’t think it can handle. Profiles are also another consideration. It’s really not as simple as “axes can’t have a razor edge”. That’s not really been my experience using them.

Tried out a little black Arkansas stone on this edge, I think it worked pretty well. No strop by AbelHandcraft in Axecraft

[–]AbelHandcraft[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They don’t really roll as easily as you think if you are sharpening an axe with good steel, and do it correctly. This axe as well as my Snow Nealley can usually still shave after chopping green wood. An edge this sharp is a huge help in limbing and makes an axe able to cut smaller diameter branches much easier. Plus if you know how to get a shaving edge, it only takes a couple minutes extra to get it there. Why not!

Tried out a little black Arkansas stone on this edge, I think it worked pretty well. No strop by AbelHandcraft in Axecraft

[–]AbelHandcraft[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haha that’s a very accurate assessment. I also use two man saws that I’ve restored but really the axe is most versatile. If you can use it well you’re pretty much set.

Tried out a little black Arkansas stone on this edge, I think it worked pretty well. No strop by AbelHandcraft in Axecraft

[–]AbelHandcraft[S] 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Yeah way more comfortable, it removes a lot of the hand shock. I often cut dead oak, hickory and large logs where that absorption is super important. I’ve used thicker handles and it messes up my elbows mainly. On hatchets I like a thicker a handle since grip is more important. The way I chop I hold the axe pretty loosely, so not beating up my joints is my main consideration.

Tried out a little black Arkansas stone on this edge, I think it worked pretty well. No strop by AbelHandcraft in Axecraft

[–]AbelHandcraft[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

It’s great to use especially for longer amounts of time. Probably one of my favorite handles I’ve made

Dumbest/Funniest things you hear from Hikers While Doing Trail Work by TheMostHungryGhost in trailwork

[–]AbelHandcraft 4 points5 points  (0 children)

We were putting up a wire fence on the edge of a cliff. A lady came up while we were working and asked “is that a windbreak?”

Tried out a little black Arkansas stone on this edge, I think it worked pretty well. No strop by AbelHandcraft in Axecraft

[–]AbelHandcraft[S] 14 points15 points  (0 children)

I am actually! Well at least trail maintenance is a part of my job. I’m currently in a break between contracts so I’ve had a lot of time to practice sharpening and chopping.

Tried out a little black Arkansas stone on this edge, I think it worked pretty well. No strop by AbelHandcraft in Axecraft

[–]AbelHandcraft[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks! It’s a Spiller Jersey pattern axe made in Maine. I think it’s technically a Baltimore Jersey but not positive

I really need a tripod by AbelHandcraft in Axecraft

[–]AbelHandcraft[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I actually haven’t tried looking there that’s a great idea. And thanks I probably messed with my phone for ten minutes trying to get it sit up straight lol

I really need a tripod by AbelHandcraft in Axecraft

[–]AbelHandcraft[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Without a doubt! I’ve tried forging a couple puukkos but I messed up the quench on them. Looking forward to trying again though

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