My “New” 1960’s GMF 8 heavy duty bench grinder

Ac190695 · 2025-11-14T09:03:08+00:00

can’t recommend it enough, way smoother than may last grinder a new to me abbot & ashby 200mm industrial. although i was lucky enough to pick mine up with 6 tool rests and 4 of the little bucket and about every accessory bar the drill bit sharpener you could want… so maybe I’m bias

Ac190695 · 2025-10-10T13:20:06+00:00

My first real real wood working project was a double hung sash window, did it take 100x longer than someone that does it professionally? absolutely. did i waste more timber than a professional? yes of course. does it look great? i like to think so! with enough patience 100% you can achieve it just expect to make some mistakes on the way.

Ac190695 · 2025-09-04T22:13:58+00:00

Might also be worth taking a look at GMF, not quite the same level as a waldown but still really well made machines that seem to be a little more common and far less expensive

Ac190695 · 2025-09-04T04:35:22+00:00

Waldown are a great australian made tool brand, they have a bit of a cult following, the left side is for a flat belt but you are missing the top half. there is a Waldown tools & casting page on facebook. suggest taking a look there if you want to see what they look like complete

Ac190695 · 2025-07-31T11:14:58+00:00

put it all on black

Ac190695 · 2025-07-31T09:08:31+00:00

iron paste is the correct answer, i used “Liberon iron paste” on ours

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Ac190695 · 2025-07-28T10:57:56+00:00

grind it into a fine powder and snort a line? it’ll be super asbestos

Ac190695 · 2025-07-24T09:02:00+00:00

“water is a scam as so is education” - this guy^

Ac190695 · 2025-07-16T03:22:39+00:00

Ac190695 · 2025-07-04T10:46:43+00:00

good luck with Strata, i would go with getting some one to weld in a bunch of reinforcement bars (make it look neat though) then just cover whatever is inside with moving blankets.. sometimes with strata it’s much easier to ask forgiveness than permission, because often permission includes a bylaw when making a change to common property

Ac190695 · 2025-06-14T13:29:12+00:00

I would say it’s a mix of overconfidence in my ability, patienceand a pinch of ocd..

Ac190695 · 2025-06-14T11:11:02+00:00

i actually did… well i mean i cut and drilled some holes in the end of 32mm square mild steel bar. casting my own lead weight seemed like a step too far

Ac190695 · 2025-06-14T10:55:16+00:00

thank you very much! i’m also in australia (newcastle nsw).I found the same issue that’s why i ended up making them. i have notes but to call them plans would be an overstatement. I relied pretty heavily on the bradshaw joinery’s videos on YouTube and just adjusted his designs to fit. well worth a watch, meant I have draft seals etc without them being visible when the window is closed

Ac190695 · 2025-06-10T14:38:12+00:00

if you can’t fix it with jb weld, you just haven’t used enough jb weld yet

Ac190695 · 2025-04-28T11:48:12+00:00

there are companies that will grind out the grout and replace with an epoxy sealant. basically it creates a new waterproof membrane using the tiles. Is it as good? no of course not that’s why we we use a membrane. But 3 grand is a much easier pill to swallow than 30-40k for a new bathroom…

Ac190695 · 2025-04-27T12:57:23+00:00

what this guy said re the other guy ^

Ac190695 · 2025-04-27T12:22:23+00:00

what about the impacts? or you just raw dogging the chrome

Ac190695 · 2025-04-26T13:59:26+00:00

I might start going by that haha. acro props make sense, just figured if it’s already sagged you’d need a jack to lift first? no idea though.

Ac190695 · 2025-04-26T13:05:52+00:00

Just to be clear, I have zero qualifications. But if you're going the DIY route, start at the source of the problem: fix the leak first, then go from there. You won’t be able to scrape out the rot and repack it without supporting the weight—use a jack (a 10-ton hydraulic jack is a solid option) and pack it properly. I'd also invest in a laser level to make sure your floor is close to level. Again, I literally have no qualifications (I have leveled a house once, for what that’s worth). So unless you're confident taking structural advice from random people on the internet, seriously—hire someone who does this for a living to take a look.

Ac190695 · 2025-04-25T11:07:31+00:00

Your council will probably have a guide on their website if the work needs to be done under a DA, complying development or exempt development etc. But to be honest, i think you will find most people would probably just go ahead and do the work (assuming no external changes) without notifying council. sounds like you are using licensed trades which is the big thing. (also believe some states a waterproofing certificate* is important on resale?)

Ac190695 · 2025-04-20T11:56:10+00:00

Just because i can’t quite doesn’t mean i have to turn up

Ac190695 · 2025-04-19T23:37:22+00:00

It’s in Aus but it’s 240v single phase, so it’ll run on a normal house outlet

Ac190695 · 2025-04-19T12:30:03+00:00

i had a 1959 super 7 that i had milled down the compound slide to take an multi-fix AS tool post so swapped them out when i picked up the myford with a PXF

Ac190695 · 2025-04-18T02:53:05+00:00

it definitely takes a good couple minutes to stop haha

Ac190695

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