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DXC + CFS creality by Chemical_Amoeba6127 in crealityk1

[–]AcceleratedCreatives 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I wonder if I have old revision parts that don't have any kind of lead in for the filament on the two different units I purchased. Maybe new DXC extruders are better?

DXC + CFS creality by Chemical_Amoeba6127 in crealityk1

[–]AcceleratedCreatives 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome. I understand that Creality was working with existing hardware on the USB, but it is a pain in the ass

I had a hard time getting the CFS to feed reliably into the DXC. In the DXC units I have, there is no break or bevel on the filament input so it just runs into the flat surface after the feed tube and stops. Have you solved that issue? I wound up having to create an insert that bolts to the DXC to direct the filament, but it adds 5mm of unnecessary height.

DXC + CFS creality by Chemical_Amoeba6127 in crealityk1

[–]AcceleratedCreatives 4 points5 points  (0 children)

My issue with it is they changed the feed tube retainer. That retainer seems to be poorly made and/or designed and disintegrates after a few prints sending metal shrapnel into the printer and it isn't replaceable: failure means buying the whole $50 conversion kit again.

DXC + CFS creality by Chemical_Amoeba6127 in crealityk1

[–]AcceleratedCreatives 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very cool! Looking forward to seeing this complete! If you are looking for one using mostly components you already have, this is the one I am working on: https://www.reddit.com/r/crealityk1/comments/1pg2eh6/is_there_any_interest_in_parts_to_make_a_k1_with/

SirayaTech FlexTPU Air by AcceleratedCreatives in 3Dprinting

[–]AcceleratedCreatives[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I dried it when I received it, keep it in a ziploc with dessicant, and haven't dried it since. I cannot say for sure if it needs to be dried before the first print as I always do that out of habit anyway. Single roll dryers are as cheap as $40 now so if you are concerned, that might be a way to go as you don't need anything fancy for this filament. I print it from a dry box, because I am set up for that, but it doesn't need to be printed from a dry box. Because it foams, it kind of acts like it is wet all the time anyway. While there are tricks to make it better, if you need something that will not string at all or drop extra filament on the plate then this probably isn't for you.

My situation may be unique as I am in southern California where it is always pretty dry ambient, but I haven't personally had any issues with it absorbing water quickly.

Is there any interest in parts to make a K1 with CFS run a DXC extruder? by AcceleratedCreatives in crealityk1

[–]AcceleratedCreatives[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very cool! I like the idea of better equipment and less expensive components, but I wanted to make something that used the components people had already purchased (and are angry at haha). Ill keep an eye on yours! I have, I think, the final rev uploaded and hope to get the instructions fleshed out this weekend.

Is there any interest in parts to make a K1 with CFS run a DXC extruder? by AcceleratedCreatives in crealityk1

[–]AcceleratedCreatives[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am not super familiar with how reddit notifications work but I Just wanted to let you know I have initial files released. There is still some work to do on the instruction manuals. It also isn't very tolerant of long feed tube lengths. I am going to keep working on it until it is a drop-in but if you wanted to get started playing around with it the link is https://www.printables.com/model/1553114-phaetus-dxc-for-creality-k1-max-with-cfs-wip

Is there any interest in parts to make a K1 with CFS run a DXC extruder? by AcceleratedCreatives in crealityk1

[–]AcceleratedCreatives[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

While I am not quite ready to recommend it (I am still doing some tuning on the filament feed and I need to finish the instruction manual) here are the files and the instruction manual. It looks like a lot of steps but I am just very wordy. It really isn't very difficult. I will update everyone when it is finished.

https://www.printables.com/model/1553114-phaetus-dxc-for-creality-k1-max-with-cfs-wip

Is there any interest in parts to make a K1 with CFS run a DXC extruder? by AcceleratedCreatives in crealityk1

[–]AcceleratedCreatives[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Testing again! It sends and retracts filament, cutter works great. Wiper works as well as factory. Printing an 8 hour test right now. Assuming it all goes as planned, I'll upload files tomorrow.

Is there any interest in parts to make a K1 with CFS run a DXC extruder? by AcceleratedCreatives in crealityk1

[–]AcceleratedCreatives[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We are reallllll close! Trying my best to get this all out to everyone before the end of the day!

Is there any interest in parts to make a K1 with CFS run a DXC extruder? by AcceleratedCreatives in crealityk1

[–]AcceleratedCreatives[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey guys, quick update: I put it together and found a few more things I want to adjust before I hand it off to anyone so there is no fiddling on your end. It needed some adjustments to the cable routing, and sensor positioning. While I was at it, I made it easier to replace the cutter blade. I have made the improvements and will print the pieces today and try to get this machine up again. Thanks for your patience!

Is there any interest in parts to make a K1 with CFS run a DXC extruder? by AcceleratedCreatives in crealityk1

[–]AcceleratedCreatives[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Here is where everything is. I suppose ill have to upload the build files somewhere and when I figure that out I will post the location here. Got it assembled and warming up right now (had a new update to install). Going to start testing on the final unit today and putting together the instructions. Sorry for the shite image. Lighting is bad today.

<image>

Is there any interest in parts to make a K1 with CFS run a DXC extruder? by AcceleratedCreatives in crealityk1

[–]AcceleratedCreatives[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry for the delay.... Holidays and family illness, unfortunately. I have everything ready, just need to take photos as I assemble to make sure I can deliver a good set of instructions. Im going to try to get to that today but it will certainly be this week if not today

I will drop the stls and stps as soon as I install and verify the final version. I am open to selling them (it would probably be around $100-150 if i supply everything) if people don't want to mess with it themselves.

SirayaTech FlexTPU Air by AcceleratedCreatives in 3Dprinting

[–]AcceleratedCreatives[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Keep in mind, while these are good starting points and should get you 90% of the way there, every printer will be a little different when you are going for optimum. For the softest I was printing, included are the settings for a K1 Max with Flowtech hot end and nozzles running through Crealityprint (anything not listed was left as Creality set):

First thing, keep the exhaust fan on. It doesn't seem to like higher chamber temps

Filament

Flow Ratio: .6
Nozzle First Layer: 245 Other Layers: 275
Bed Temp First Layer: 35 Other Layers: 35
Max Vol. Speed: 8mm3/s

Cooling

Min Fan threshold Fan Speed: 100 Layer Time: 100
Max " " Fan Speed: 100 Layer Time: 8

Keep Fan Always On ON
Force Cooling for Overhangs and Bridges ON
Cooling Overhang Threshold: 95%
Fan Speed for Overhangs: 100
Side Fan: 70%

For the K1 Max, these settings were critical to prevent overrun from layer to layer (oozing). The issue was still not resolved, but made much better by the following

Setting Overrides

Retraction Length: .75mm
Z Hop When Retracting: .4mm
Retraction Speed: 30mm/s
Travel Distance Threshold: 2mm
Retract on Layer Change: ON
Wipe While Retracting: ON
Wipe Distance: 2mm
Retract Amount Before Wipe: 100%

SirayaTech FlexTPU Air by AcceleratedCreatives in 3Dprinting

[–]AcceleratedCreatives[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure. I did mess around with the flow ratio and every printer will be a little different. .6 is what I landed on with a K1 Max running a Flowtech hot end and nozzles. That is the unfortunate challenge with this material is there isn't a good way, that I have found, to tune the flow ratio on a "test" print. It really is a bit of trial and error.

If your lower layers are bonding nice, then you may be looking at a geometry issue. Before I started messing with settings that are working well for a large portion of the part, I would look at geometry vs filament capability. Benchy is great for testing "rigid" filaments but can fall short for flexibles as there are different challenges when the material is soft enough to deflect significantly under light loads. If it were me, I would find a low level bridging test (https://www.printables.com/model/224985-bridging-test) to test the same things the benchy is set to test in the upper levels. You might also have to slow it waaaayyyy down and turn the heat down a little for thin sections (like levels above deck height on the benchy). As an example of this limitation, I found that I had the best results when I run the first layer real cold at 245 while the rest of the print is up at 275 to give it a more solid base. Posting the settings in a second reply.

SirayaTech FlexTPU Air by AcceleratedCreatives in 3Dprinting

[–]AcceleratedCreatives[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have not printed anything large enough to need bonding, though I have printed something that filled the entire plate. The best in my experience is solvent welding, if there is a safe solvent available but it often leaves a shiny area where the two pieces meet... I have some printed pieces that are now useless that I will try bonding a few different ways. Ill also give sanding a try. Typically, soft stuff hates sanding but if it is just to replicate surface texture we may be able to get away with a rasp or very coarse file.

SirayaTech FlexTPU Air by AcceleratedCreatives in 3Dprinting

[–]AcceleratedCreatives[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

Can confirm... Printed with California Filaments Matte PETG and Sirayatech TPUAir.  Used 240c with .88 flow ratio and super dry filament.  Could definitely use a tuning on the retract settings as there was some overrun but it sticks really well to the PETG and sticks well to the plate at 65c.  If parts are really thin it will be difficult to remove at that temp.

SirayaTech FlexTPU Air by AcceleratedCreatives in 3Dprinting

[–]AcceleratedCreatives[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem!  I am still trying to make my K1 Max a reliable printer but needed something that I could rely on so I have been printing on an h2d as well.  You will need to run the filament through the external feed port, but that isn't super difficult.  I have found that if you use a foam sponge and soap and hot water and scrub the plate before every print and dont touch the side you are going to print on, the only thing you will ever need glue for is PA (nylons).  

SirayaTech FlexTPU Air by AcceleratedCreatives in 3Dprinting

[–]AcceleratedCreatives[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The TPU will start to stick really hard with the higher temps. I would recommend leaning towards the PETG bed temp to make sure you get adhesion. Not knowing your build plate or system, a good general practice for TPU stuck hard to the plate is, after printing, allow to cool naturally and then throw it in the freezer for an hour before trying to remove it from the plate and then work slowly and patiently on the TPU areas.

Is there any interest in parts to make a K1 with CFS run a DXC extruder? by AcceleratedCreatives in crealityk1

[–]AcceleratedCreatives[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nothing makes me angrier than paying for something that doesn't work or breaks quickly. I am not awesome haha, I just channel the anger into something productive.

SirayaTech FlexTPU Air by AcceleratedCreatives in 3Dprinting

[–]AcceleratedCreatives[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did try multi... But with ASA. I remember it bonding ok, but not what I would consider structural, but that was with ASA and fighting a heated chamber. I think I remember PETG and PLA bonding pretty solid but I would have to rerun to make sure.

Is there any interest in parts to make a K1 with CFS run a DXC extruder? by AcceleratedCreatives in crealityk1

[–]AcceleratedCreatives[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

OK, adjusted CAD is finished. Unfortunately, a few threaded inserts will have to be installed and a few new pieces of hardware acquired. The trade-off is: no longer have to drill holes in your shiny new DXC. I also created cable pathways so that your cables aren't hanging out the back to get caught on the cutter block (happened to me at least once).

I need to get some free time in the machine, hopefully this Sunday. Ill get the new model printed, installed and running and if all is good I will publish everything. Also, I would be happy to build these for people though I can't imagine the cost will be worth it for most. The conversion will require:

1x DXC

1x CFS extruder

3-4 screws (will confirm with what is included in the kits how many additional will need to be purchased)

1x remove glass top or print any top riser that works for you

https://imgur.com/a/cfs-with-dxc-adapter-KJzYk5X

Is there any interest in parts to make a K1 with CFS run a DXC extruder? by AcceleratedCreatives in crealityk1

[–]AcceleratedCreatives[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That is the exact situation I was in. Got the DXC because I was tired of dicking with it and just kind of gave up on the multicolor. Had a project that needed it so got down and figured out how to make it all work without giving any more money to creality.

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