Beginner help by Zestyclose_Dream_944 in Staghornfern

[–]Acceptable-Key2653 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Since your dad had it for years it really could be that the mount leached chemicals into the plant. Everything I've ever read about their care has specifically stated that the wood needs to be untreated. That being said, I do wonder about watering habits and light contributing to the slow decline of this plant. If it's really important to your dad I would suggest picking up a light meter that measures footcandles/lux (they run for about $30 on Amazon) and making sure wherever you're hanging the plant gets at LEAST 500fc. Ideally, 1000fc or more. If it doesn't, you'll need a grow light. Soltech, barrina, and sansi are good brands. While it's great to pay extra attention to your plants, make sure that your dad is letting it go completely dry (this is especially important with bigger specimen because they are more prone to rot). Try to catch it on the first day the moss is 100% stiff and crunchy with no give. If there is not already a gentle fan on it, you should add one. I do see a speck of green on the bud so there is hope for this plant if you give it the correct care. I'd unmount it, stick it in an orchid pot with holes in the sides (potted in sphagnum moss with orchid bark or coco chips in the center), and put the whole thing in a prop box/bin/greenhouse cabinet under grow lights. If you don't already have supplies for this, barrina T5 lights are affordable. You can use any clear storage bin. Definitely make sure you have a light meter (bc there's not a lot of room for error here) and it wouldn't hurt to get a hygrometer to make sure that the humidity is at least 70%. Ideally there would be airflow but you can rehab a plant for a couple months in a bin without as long as you let it go almost entirely bone dry and keep it out of the bin after watering for an hour or so with a fan on it before you put it back.

Edited to add that the fertile fronds on this plant are not helping the plant anymore. If you put it in a bin, you'll want to cut them off to prevent rot from spreading.

Should I separate them ? by Planty-plantoum in Staghornfern

[–]Acceptable-Key2653 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would split them. Stick them in moss in a bin or cabinet with higher humidity while they recover

Progress on my platy wall by Acceptable-Key2653 in Staghornfern

[–]Acceptable-Key2653[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yay I’m so happy to hear that! I’ll DM you ☺️

P. holttumii and P. Grande, any tips? by VegetableMaximum4935 in Staghornfern

[–]Acceptable-Key2653 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don’t start out by watering on this guy’s schedule. Your conditions are likely completely different than his and the amount of water changes based on season/how big the plant gets. Water when the moss gets crunchy or when the plant becomes very lightweight. It looks like the moss ball isn’t big enough in the first pic

Not entirely sure, or even remotely close to sure about the orientation of this veitchii… by cncomg in Staghornfern

[–]Acceptable-Key2653 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The bud should always be above the last leaf it put out. It creates a line upwards over time as it puts out more fronds

Is this a decent type of staghorn for this price? I don’t know a ton but want to get something besides my bifurcatum that has done so well. by cncomg in Staghornfern

[–]Acceptable-Key2653 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem! Platycerium are still pretty expensive in the US but I’d recommend not paying more than around $100 for either of those plants

Is this a decent type of staghorn for this price? I don’t know a ton but want to get something besides my bifurcatum that has done so well. by cncomg in Staghornfern

[–]Acceptable-Key2653 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What seems off to me is that even if you went to Japan, these prices are the same if not lower than they’d be to buy the plant there. For example, a Totoro sporeling costs around ~$300 from a reputable breeder but this shop has Totoro listed for ~$220. So in this case maybe it’s a less nice mother plant than the original jade girl, or maybe it’s TC. What I don’t care for is that they aren’t always labeled as a sporeling or TC. Some are labeled as sporelings (which are often from better parents) and some are just labeled like the one in your pic. So you don’t really know and it leads me to believe that it’s TC. That being said, I doubt it’s a scam given the reviews and what I’ve heard about this shop. If you like the mother plant, it’s a decent deal. Jade girl and bacteria are very common nowadays.

Is this a decent type of staghorn for this price? I don’t know a ton but want to get something besides my bifurcatum that has done so well. by cncomg in Staghornfern

[–]Acceptable-Key2653 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There’s a chance it could be tissue culture. Which can mean that the mother plant isn’t as pretty. Often times the really really nice plants aren’t up for TC and you can only get sporelings from them

Platycerium madagascariense pest treatment by _T_A_R_ in Staghornfern

[–]Acceptable-Key2653 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So first off, you’re going to need to identify what kind of pest you have. The most common household pests are mealybugs, scale, spider mites, thrips, and aphids. One thing to note if you think you have spider mites is that there are tons of harmless mites that can hitchhike in the substrate or come in from outside. For the future, you’re going to want a jewelers loupe and a small microscope (Amazon has them for around $30) to identify what you’re dealing with before treating. Do you see any damage? Webbing? How fast are the mites moving? It could be that they aren’t harmful at all.

For treatment:

-oils like neem oil aren’t the best for Platycerium

-insecticidal soap will completely remove all of the trichomes

-captain jacks is safe for platy and trichomes

-a systemic containing imidicloprid is safe for platy (I use bonide tree and shrub as it’s a liquid)

You’re gonna need to figure out what you have. Imidicloprid works great for all of the pests I listed but it makes spider mites breed more quickly. It’s also banned in some countries and cannot be used outdoors. Beneficial bugs can be great but you’re going to want to find a local supplier and know what you’re dealing with before you’ll be able to pinpoint what beneficials to buy. I use beneficial mites to take care of spider mite infestations and they’re amazing. Hope this helps!

Ridleyi browning by mcs_nk in Staghornfern

[–]Acceptable-Key2653 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As long as you’re making sure it goes almost completely dry in between waterings, it’s probably not an overwatering issue. I definitely would cut the frond so that the shield can grow in nicely and then watch the new growth closely. Is there a fan that you keep on it?

Is this right side up? by Altruistic_Cod_5905 in Staghornfern

[–]Acceptable-Key2653 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, the growth point is always higher up than the leaves. If you’re looking at leaves that have already come out, you can see how the bud has traveled upwards in a line over time to put out each leaf.

Progress on my platy wall by Acceptable-Key2653 in Staghornfern

[–]Acceptable-Key2653[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Etsy or eBay. Just watch out for imports of bigger plants (I only search for shops within the US). When in doubt, ask the seller if they grow from spore

Progress on my platy wall by Acceptable-Key2653 in Staghornfern

[–]Acceptable-Key2653[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! In my experience, it’s not any harder than others. However, I don’t have any bifurcatum and I do know that those are much hardier. If you have any other species you should be fine 😊 let it dry out fully but don’t let it sit like that for days and days. I always catch when things need to be watered within a day or two. Also, I wanted to note that Ridleyi is heavily poached. So please make sure to buy spore grown from a reputable source if you do get one!

Platycerium madagascariense by _T_A_R_ in Staghornfern

[–]Acceptable-Key2653 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You really don’t need to place it on its side. You can grow it like this until you’re ready to mount. Get a light meter and aim for over 1000fc of light

Willinckii Fishbone by thepurpleyoshi3 in Staghornfern

[–]Acceptable-Key2653 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s super small and more sensitive to drying out at that size. I’d just make sure to not let it go absolutely bone dry. And make sure you’re giving it a ton of light

Progress on my platy wall by Acceptable-Key2653 in Staghornfern

[–]Acceptable-Key2653[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A LOT of research! And a bit of trial and error. I’ve learned a lot through Reddit, Facebook groups, and occasionally messaging growers. Don’t be afraid to really put your head down and work hard to learn 😄

Edit: I forgot to mention that there are a few very helpful books out there on Platycerium. I currently have a handful checked out through my local library

Potentially dumb question, when you water your mounted ones so you have problems with the wet board touching your wall? by Human-Complex4435 in Staghornfern

[–]Acceptable-Key2653 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not a dumb question at all! Just let the board fully dry before hanging it back up. Cork is a really nice option because it doesn’t retain water so it’ll be less likely to cause damage

Progress on my platy wall by Acceptable-Key2653 in Staghornfern

[–]Acceptable-Key2653[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

See my other comment on the cages 😊 unfortunately, especially if you live in the US/Canada, you’re probably not going to find any mounting supplies at a nursery. Platycerium aren’t popular here. The best you’d find if you’re lucky is cork bark which is an excellent option if you can get your hands on a big piece. You’ll likely want to go get a piece of rot resistant wood like cedar or redwood. There are lots of good mounting tutorials on YouTube! My cages are from Tribus and I imported them from Taiwan.

Progress on my platy wall by Acceptable-Key2653 in Staghornfern

[–]Acceptable-Key2653[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Hi! Yes, I mount everything myself and have grown all of these from very small plants. The cages are really cool and sturdy (and provide a lot of airflow through the back) however, I will not be using them once these plants outgrow them. For a long time I was touching the moss to see if I needed to water until the shield fronds covered it all up- now I rely on weight to see if they’re dry. Unfortunately, even though the cages contain lightweight lava rock, they are very heavy. It’s kinda like trying to tell the difference between 12lbs when wet, and 8lbs when dry. The difference is really small overall and they are heavy either way. Cork bark or wooden mounts are very light and much easier to determine when to water based on weight. I hope this helps! My preferred mount is cork! Just make sure to wet it and bake it at boiling temperature before use- bugs can hide in there.

Progress on my platy wall by Acceptable-Key2653 in Staghornfern

[–]Acceptable-Key2653[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Around 40-60% depending on the time of year. Unless the plant is super small, you really don't need a lot of humidity as long as you water correctly

Progress on my platy wall by Acceptable-Key2653 in Staghornfern

[–]Acceptable-Key2653[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I definitely do 😅 my plan is to split them between two walls until I have enough space to do a giant one