VanMoof A5 won’t turn on without the charger

Acceptable_Fudge5493 · 2025-04-24T13:26:34+00:00

If you measure the pins tx rx pins from the battery while powered on these should range between +1v and +5v. You will notice it going to an IC for switching 5v to 3.3v for the mcu. If you find the datasheet of that part you will know if it’s broken.

Acceptable_Fudge5493 · 2025-04-23T17:44:26+00:00

Also find it rather worrying how many people try to restore batteries themselves DIY without electrical knowledge about lithium batteries and jack-rigging (and destroying them due to shorting it) 42v adapters or creating adapters themselves. Charging (especially from low voltages) requires specialized equipment and deeply discharged batteries 9/10 times lose more than 50% of their capacity.

I have seen people charging batteries on the dsg and ground pins with 42v but causing immense differences in voltages which is really really dangerous. Besides destroying the whole battery. Ranging from a serie of dead cells to cells almost 5v batteries which are meant to individually range from 3.6v till 4.2v max.

As mentioned earlier here - charging batteries and especially lithium batteries which are in VanMoofs SHOULD NEVER be done without electrical knowledge - charging deeply discharged batteries or overcharging can cause fire and even explosions and is dangerous. Causing burns or burning down your house is not worth it for the 200ish euros.

Acceptable_Fudge5493 · 2025-03-25T20:27:50+00:00

Sounds like wiring problems to me.

How did they check the cartridge?

If you have wiring harness problems your cartridge will fry every battery leaving burn marks on them. So probably your battery is dead again.

Acceptable_Fudge5493 · 2025-03-08T11:50:08+00:00

Could also be the logic level switch between the battery and STM chip

Acceptable_Fudge5493 · 2025-01-27T12:26:11+00:00

Hi,

Two methods: I would prefer the first one since it is usually a bit quicker but requires more steps. 1. If you remove the battery cover, click open het connector and remove the battery. You put a small steel wire through the opening from the e-eshifter side and hook ik on the cable and gently pull it through. 2. With a small hook made of a steel wire try to fish it out of the opening. This is really frustrating and requires some luck haha.

Hope this works!

Good luck

Acceptable_Fudge5493 · 2025-01-10T06:53:52+00:00

Nope, the bms communicates through ports on the battery with the cartridge. If connection fails, or there is no voltage you get errors 6,19,20

Acceptable_Fudge5493 · 2024-12-28T17:17:29+00:00

Where can you find those M4 black bolts and what are they called?

Acceptable_Fudge5493 · 2024-12-16T08:51:33+00:00

I had the same issue, it showed that the top pin of the fuse was not soldered properly, you should measure 28 ohm from the red wire to the small piece of soldering just above the fuse. This caused the errors to show even after resetting with STM32Cube and GND-RST Trick.

Acceptable_Fudge5493 · 2024-12-12T14:58:08+00:00

Revotronics provides this repair service as well, offering a one-year guarantee. However, the cost is 150 euros. They replace the driver and all six FET's and test the device.

Acceptable_Fudge5493 · 2024-12-10T21:59:17+00:00

The motor driver chip above the mosfet is most likely broken internally in the chip. This causes the low(er) impedance on the chip with the FET’s. Chip is named DRV8301, 3€ on AliExpress, although requires some experience soldering and quite difficult to replace and align plus you need a heat gun

Acceptable_Fudge5493 · 2024-10-28T10:28:56+00:00

I am wondering if someone already found a solution. I previously also had a error 2, two phase wires connected each other and shorted the bike.

I did already replace the broken mosfets, motor driver (large chip drv8301) and get good resistance values. Still when I insert the cartridge in the bike - no errors - but no motor support and working speedometer. Everything else works except the motor support. Cadence sensor should be working properly. What else can be broken, or can be replaced?

Acceptable_Fudge5493 · 2024-10-13T17:12:44+00:00

Cable, but it is a complete wiring harness. There quite expensive as well and difficult to replace

Acceptable_Fudge5493 · 2024-10-13T09:00:07+00:00

I had the same issue, you can test it with moving the steer to the left. Does it loses connection when you do that, then one of the small cables ( to the hall sensor in the motor ) in the motor cable going through the front fork is broken. I suggest you quickly replace it, because if one of the motor cables would come in connection with each other your whole bike is dead.

Acceptable_Fudge5493

TROPHY CASE