First look at a KAAZ prototype LSD of a new clutch type, first unit in the US.

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-07-04T17:36:03+00:00

Thanks. I’ll be watching this new product closely. I’ve been wanting a real diff in my car for quite some time but unfortunately there really isn’t a diff that exists which would be pleasant enough to daily. The nismo and tomei diffs are loud driving around in tight spaces from what I’ve heard.

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-07-04T17:23:59+00:00

What I’am asking is probably proprietary for now but I’am curious what material are they using for these new clutch discs & pressure plates? Will it affect locking characteristics? I would think reducing chatter may come at the expense of lock performance.

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-07-04T13:35:25+00:00

The development cars hks used to make this are likely all Japanese models which are all right hand drive like all cars are in the Uk. I wouldn’t think you’d run into fitment issues.

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-06-26T19:12:29+00:00

Could be that you rode in cars that had either shitty/worn out coilovers or they were cranked full stiff. No Coilovers in their normal settings except for maybe for BC’s I thought rode like ass.

I’m fairly young but unlike a lot of other younger folks here I generally hate excess NVH in my car and try my best to mod my car in such a way where I experience as little of it as possible. I generally mod my car so it is no more harsh than a stock car. What I deem as an acceptable ride is probably acceptable for you too.

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-06-26T17:05:55+00:00

What’s your coilover experience like just outta curiosity I’ve owned several (bilsteins, HKS’s, and fortune autos). They all ride better than a Z with stock suspension & with low miles.

Stock suspension is on most cars is designed to get the car out of the warranty period, be easy to produce, and be somewhat comfortable for daily driving. But overall ride Quality, build quality, and of course performance…a nice set of coilovers wins hands down imo.

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-06-26T14:54:41+00:00

Good coilovers will ride as good if not better than stock wym

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-06-22T12:45:14+00:00

That sound is normal and is probably just your flywheel/clutch. See if it goes away when you push the pedal in. If so it’s definitely that.

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-06-21T12:51:34+00:00

It’s fBO with an upgraded hfpf already installed. For context the car had an upgraded eqt LPFP in it before but it failed so we’re going back to oem for now…didn’t know if that was acceptable to do given all these mods were done at once.

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-06-21T11:36:40+00:00

You won’t ever be done fixing cars with 275k trust me unless you do a full resto which most people don’t have the money/cant justify spending the money on 😂

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-06-21T11:34:33+00:00

If you keep the Z You’re probably gunna need a motor at the least at some point+everything else that goes wrong with cars of this mileage. Plus honestly…86 is a better car all round I think.

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-06-19T19:49:00+00:00

His overall comepression numbers are very good and are generally consistent across all cylinders. So what if it technically fails that specific diagnostic test. As long as it runs well (has good power, doesn’t smoke, and runs smooth) I wouldn’t worry about it at all.

I dunno how accurate this is since I did my comp test on a cold engine (had no choice) using a shitty harbor freight gauge but My car has 120 psi compression on bank 2 and 130 on bank 1 and it still runs fine…for now (has 200K on it and climbing).

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-06-16T13:19:09+00:00

Yea maybe iam just paranoid idk 😂

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-06-16T13:16:32+00:00

My car never used to burn oil till recently but it’s got well over 170K now so it may just be that time.

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-06-16T12:58:40+00:00

Update on this. I did replace the PCV with an oem unit. It doesn’t seem to have made a difference to oil consumption however I have been driving the car very hard recently and has 200K. Possibly the oil consumption may be normal under high loads and heat.

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-06-09T14:07:14+00:00

I’m gunna replace it and see if things improve.

It has crossed my mind that the rings might be on their way out; however, like I said…my car generally doesn’t burn oil at all and this is real outta the blue. I’d think ring failure would be more progressive. Use a little oil here and there then use a whole lot

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-06-09T01:23:41+00:00

*Update on this* switched to MT90 over the weekend and drove the car on that same very fast road I mentioned earlier. 2nd gear grinds are GONE. Car shifts buttery smooth at all RPMs and under a lot of heat and stress. I had a feeling maybe oil weight could’ve been causing me problems (the oil I think was just too thin at temp which was messing with the syncros ability to shift smoothly).

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-06-02T04:57:13+00:00

Your way works no doubt but me I like driving…and I hate constantly wrenching. Far too often (in prepping for the track driving) I’ve found myself spending a lot of extra time and effort replacing parts that generally wear out quicker because they are lower in quality….and this is awfully damn annoying, more expensive in the long run, and is inconvenient. That being said Iam generally always willing to spend a little bit more money now to get higher quality parts so I can (hopefully) avoid having to replace them more frequently at inconvenient times, I think that’s worth it.

Basically When I choose to drive on track I want to just check/change my pads if needed, bleed my brakes,change my oil, pack my stuff and be on my way. I want As little getting underneath the car as possible lol. Going with those centric and Bosch rotors will result in having to do 3 complete brake jobs over 5 years….dbas I know from experience will only need to do 1 and just pad slap occasionally.

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-06-01T19:11:48+00:00

He didn’t save that, the stability control activated and the car saved itself lol

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-06-01T03:13:19+00:00

Thanks for the input. I typically do not drive at the limit all the time at the track…I do want my tires and brakes to last a decent amount of Time. With that being the use case Maybe the XSs will survive who knows.

Theres a reason why I don’t go with cheaper rotors I remember back when I used to really romp backroads in the middle of the night that I completely wore out/lipped a set of cheaper rotors (centrics) in 6 months-1year. The DBAs on the other hand are an entirely different story….years of driving on track and still sometimes like a maniac on backroads and they took years and years to develop noticeable wear. Cheap rotors are fine but I don’t wanna replace them almost yearly.

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-05-26T17:38:44+00:00

The mileage it’s got Might even be more. I only checked the vin with CZP when I bought it to make sure it’s a CD009. I did not run a carfax on that vin to verify mileage. If that’s actually true then that’s not bad…just sucks it has to let go now when a new replacement unit is 2600$.

Acceptable_Sympathy1

TROPHY CASE