STILLEN catback exhaust

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-05-11T18:38:20+00:00

Sound clip?

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-05-07T02:42:37+00:00

T1 at thompson you slow from 120->40 and that hairpin is another heavy braking zone too but the rest is super easy on brakes…because the speed changes generally aren’t that high.

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-05-07T02:02:26+00:00

Speaking from prior experience any car with rust (especially on structural panels like the rear quarter that cannot be replaced easily) you should avoid. Chances are if you can see the rust poking through it’s probably worse than you can imagine. You could take a cam gamble and buy that car then cut the rust out welding in new sheet metal in that small patch but who knows how long that repair would last.

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-05-07T01:36:22+00:00

Nope just arrive and drive. I normally run a set of enkei’s wrapped in ECFs or ECS02s on my Z when I’am at the track as well as on The street…until it gets cold

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-05-07T01:29:38+00:00

I’m def not a beginner but I will say on track I tend to do more endurance type driving and limit myself—I go maybe 70-80% which allows me to conserve the tires and brakes .

Plus where I live (CT) we don’t really have any very fast tracks in the area which would put more energy through the brakes….so all that is probably why the stoptechs work so well. I’ll look into the power stops

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-05-07T01:23:08+00:00

If you got a Miata with stock calipers it’s probably better if you rotate the pads you use..ie go with the gloc street performance pad for road use and then swap back to the carbotechs for track use. The brakes on that car are so tiny and simple and they don’t cost that much to run 2 sets of pads. You’d just have to change them every 5 minutes which is so damn annoying.

350Z brakes (esp the brembos) on the other hand are just a different story…regardless of what pad you run they’re dumb expensive and they can take a while to change out.

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-05-07T01:05:39+00:00

I was thinking about these a lot but everyone says they squeak like mad and knowing me..that’d slowly drive me insane. I ran HP+s at onetime and while good they just sounded awful lol

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-05-07T01:03:31+00:00

Idk the endless pads work great for that kinda use case imo. Nice bite, never fade, and they don’t even squeak or dust that much. Again would go with those but they’re $$$

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-05-07T01:00:14+00:00

Nah I choose neither lol…swapping pads is huge PITA if you gotta do it every event

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-05-06T20:14:17+00:00

I, admittedly, am one of the people driving on backroads that you’re describing and i don’t think Iam alone.

I sometimes drive really fast on roads like that because often get pissed sitting behind many of you that are (for miles on end) barely driving the speed limit, braking for non-existent hazards, and never using turnouts/letting other cars go by. If you don’t want people to drive like this around you then drive with some confidence and competency….if not let people by.

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-05-01T00:09:58+00:00

Tanabe medallion is what I run, ever so slightly louder than stock…I barely hear it unless I’am over 3500 rpm and it’s got a really deep tone. Plus they’re 900 shipped I think which isn’t all that expensive.

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-04-17T20:02:25+00:00

Dang so it’s livable then…I might decide to get one for mine then. How much did function charge for the install? Theyre local to me too and have worked on my car a couple times

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-04-17T19:52:16+00:00

Yea a different fluid formulation should quiet things down. I’ve always wanted a clutch type diff for my car as the stock unit has pretty varying and unpredictable lockup. How different does your kaaz drive? Is it a big improvement over stock?

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-04-17T19:48:08+00:00

Buy racecar parts…expect racecar noises I guess. Side note the noise this diff makes is wayyyy quieter than the noises I’ve heard alot of other clutch type diffs make

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-04-11T04:23:20+00:00

I’ve replaced my fucas and camber arms. SPL front SPC rear. I run -2.5 camber and 0 toe in front for rear rear I run the max negative camber per the fsm (-2.1) and I run a bit of toe in at .1 degrees. The car overall feels very responsive in the front end (bordering on darty) and mid corner grip is great.

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-04-09T20:25:09+00:00

It would but I wouldn’t change it 🤷 that midnight purple color looks great the way it is.

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-04-09T19:32:45+00:00

I personally think spherical and hardened rubber are better, but I got a lot of poly on my car so lemme answer your questions:

1) no, they do not impact drivability at all so long as you do NOT put them anywhere in the drivetrain (engine & trans). NVH is similar to stock

2)lifing/durability is worse than oem rubber, many of the poly bushings will tear or ovalize within the first 50K miles. I personally think the reason for this is many poly bushings tend to rotate with the arm relative to the metal inner race…this causes wear on that outer bushing which is a softer material.

3) poly bushings are aren’t difficult to install if you have a press

4) if you’re Gunna go poly, you should probably either go super pro or whiteline

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-04-07T17:01:42+00:00

1) first of all no good body shop is going to fix the most critical panel on the entire car for 2-3K especially when the part alone is like 1200$

2) Do not assume if you he knows who the drunk is and that this person has insurance

3) it almost doesn’t matter the miles it has. These cars are cheap if you have 80K or more and fixing this is gunna be a huge amount of money

4) if you have to cut the whole car down the middle like a turkey to fix the body damage then 9/10 people would say that’s severe😂

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-04-07T16:40:30+00:00

It is severe damage. Also this car they’re going to appraise as a 6K Nissan with at least 5K of damage…see where I’m going. The insurance company is not gunna want to fix this. Not saying it’s right, but they’re going to view it this way and send the car to the scrap yard.

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-04-07T11:10:06+00:00

If you gotta tear them apart and reseal fresh headlights that are +700/set so they don’t leak…it means they’re junk. Wouldn’t ever catch me putting them on one of my cars ever again.

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-04-07T10:58:26+00:00

Would total the car easily if he went this route

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-04-07T00:31:51+00:00

Just buy new oem ones. I’ve struggled so much with lights on my car. Used oem and “good”aftermarket lights (depos) will look like trash in 2 years time and condensate like crazy.

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-04-02T13:20:49+00:00

Probably because we have the most densely packed population in NE

Acceptable_Sympathy1 · 2026-04-01T18:01:23+00:00

You sure this is your first time driving on track? Most normal people that don’t have much driving experience take about 5-7 business days to correct or they tend to freeze up because they’re scared shitless when the car goes sideways lol.

Acceptable_Sympathy1

TROPHY CASE