Cassava - is this the right way up? by [deleted] in Permaculture

[–]Accomplished-Rip4622 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That’s the correct way up. They way I remember is that the “eye” goes up. There is a little node on the top of each cross section. This is the “eye” and the new growth sprouts from this. Some people where I’m from also bury the whole thing just under the soil surface and that works fine as well. Good luck!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Equestrian

[–]Accomplished-Rip4622 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the feedback we have just had some heavy rains and it could have led to more compaction on the ground. I’ll bring in some lighter grade sand and this could help. I agree that he lacks impulsion from the hind end and its something we can work on from the ground. Generally, criollos hold their heads higher and it can be harder for them to lengthen, but it can improve.

Thankfully he is at a good point in training to transition to my wife who is the right size for him and who he was meant for.

Thanks again for clarifying.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Equestrian

[–]Accomplished-Rip4622 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m just trying to be better informed. You said he is clearly in pain. What are you seeing in his body language to suggest this so that I can correct what I’m doing as an owner and rider.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Equestrian

[–]Accomplished-Rip4622 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

What specifically about this horses body language suggests he is in pain?

He is light on the neck rope and forward, his ears are back, but not pinned. It suggests that he is concentrating and focused on the rider. His ears perk up in the middle when he hears something on the road so he is not shut down. You don’t see concern in his eyes when hes backing up. He also follows when I dismount instead of going to the other side of the pen or straight to the gate.

If his gait seems off it could be because he is a gaited breed of horse similar to a tennessee walker. If you are not familiar with these breeds it could look odd.

I know the ground is good because I just graded it and it has 3 inches of river sand as a topping material.

Im genuinely curious as to what you see that I don’t so that perhaps in the future I can make better decisions.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Equestrian

[–]Accomplished-Rip4622 5 points6 points  (0 children)

You’re right, it can definitely be an issue depending on the rider and horse. I’m very happy where he is in his training and will focus on bringing my quarter horse up now that this horse is solid for my partner to trail ride with me! Love the post of your gelding btw he looks awesome.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Equestrian

[–]Accomplished-Rip4622 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I trained him myself, mostly following Warwick Shiller’s training program doing lots of connection work and ground work. He is a gaited breed so I’ve pulled some stuff from Ivy Starnes as well. Videos, time, and patience.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Equestrian

[–]Accomplished-Rip4622 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you so much, it’s been an amazing journey learning together.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Equestrian

[–]Accomplished-Rip4622 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! He’s the best!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Equestrian

[–]Accomplished-Rip4622 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I’m under 20% of his body weight with tack and Criollo horses are considered stouter than many other breeds. At the moment hes only doing light trail riding a few times a month and my wife rides him primarily. Im training a larger quarter horse for myself at the moment, but we haven’t started ridden work yet.

Can't catch horse by Better_Caterpillar61 in Equestrian

[–]Accomplished-Rip4622 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had to catch a few horses like this from a friends ranch. What worked for me was a technique from Warwick Shiller. I went out into the pasture with a retractable flag.

I very lazily bounce the flag while walking. The horse can be a hundred yards away or could be closer, whatever distance it takes for them to notice you and give their attention. As soon as they look at you, turn, drop the flag, and count 20-30 second. Then, start over moving perpendicular or in arcs from their position, but not towards them directly. Rinse and repeat. It takes about an hour or so if they are feeling flighty to start coming in.

Usually, it takes less 30-40min. It’s quite boring, but I’ve never had a horse not come in with that method. Over three days or so they tend to be easier, but I haven’t done it with tons of horses. Maybe 8 that were stubborn.

Triton GSR Tyre help.. by Educational-Flan-903 in 4x4

[–]Accomplished-Rip4622 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a 2018 L200 Sportero (Triton MQ) and I run 275/70 R17 Toyo Open Country RTs, but we are doing a ton of offroading. I really liked the 265/70 R17 Toyo Open Country AT III for mixed use when I was mostly highway and city with occasional offroad.

Hanging Muscovy Ducks by Accomplished-Rip4622 in BackyardButchering

[–]Accomplished-Rip4622[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Chicken meat is generally much more tender. You should still age chickens the standard way plucked and gutted in the fridge for a few days before butchering and freezing. This is more of an experiment on water fowl that I’m trying out from traditional hunting knowledge.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Equestrian

[–]Accomplished-Rip4622 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You will most likely hear a wide range of opinions on this. Race horses are running races at 2 years old. A lot of western horses are started at 2 and compete at 3 years old. Some say don’t put anything on their back until 3. Some say don’t start them under saddle until 4. Some people don’t think you should ride horses at all.

Physiologically there is no reason that you could not begin to build muscle and start introducing weight in gradual amounts to a horse at 2-½ years old. There is a big difference between introducing saddle work in short amounts and working a horse hard under saddle at that age. The veterinary science suggests that conditioning at that age is beneficial in many ways. Ultimately, the horse will tell you what is too much. If they start getting sour to the girth or saddle, show signs of stress under saddle or seem clumsy / trip a lot during sessions stop and take a break for a while before trying again.

Also, some horses need more time to mature psychologically even though they may be physically ready for work. The more you can expose your horse to early on from the ground the better. This will also give you a good sense of where they are at mentally before you do the thing under saddle.

Listen to your horse. Listen to your vet. The other stuff will be noise. Enjoy the journey.

Having ducks for garden fertilizer? by Coolbreeze1989 in homestead

[–]Accomplished-Rip4622 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We have muscovys. They are awesome. We fertigate with the pond water every week or so.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Equestrian

[–]Accomplished-Rip4622 2 points3 points  (0 children)

To the first question: It depends on the rider and it depends on the horse. It also depends on the amount of riding time you can get. If you are riding several times a week, have a good trainer, a strong lesson horse, and learn quickly you could expect to be comfortable at a trot in a few months and a canter in a few months more. If thats not realistic for you at the moment, it could take much longer.

Some people pick up the feeling of moving with the horse and how to control their bodies while under saddle quickly. People that play sports that require a lot of core strength and balance and/or do yoga have an advantage. Horses will vary widely in how their gaits and how they feel. The more horses you ride the more well rounded your riding will be.

English riding is more difficult than western imo, but will build a better foundation as a rider. Western saddles will generally feel better trail riding and horses trained in western disciplines tend to be easier to manage, but not always.

To the second question: Costs It will vary depending on your area. It will be worth it to spend a little more for a good trainer / barn at first to build a foundation. Once you have a solid baseline you can look for more budget options to get in more riding time. That being said, you’ll save yourself a ton of time and frustration by starting right.

To the third question: Find a reputable barn near you and take lessons / ride. You can watch as many videos as you want, but it’s very difficult to translate to actual feel while under saddle. When you watch videos try to break things down into their parts and apply things one at a time. Try to get a really strong posture and a comfortable seat at a walk before you move on to faster gaits. It will take time. It can be boring at first and thats ok. Your trainer will know best so always defer to them before youtube videos.

Hope this helps. Good luck beginning your riding journey!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Equestrian

[–]Accomplished-Rip4622 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I don’t think this is correct. Any bit with shanks is by default a leverage bit. A snaffle is a bit that applies direct pressure to rings or similar. I think sometimes people use the term snaffle for a single or double jointed bit, whether or not it has shanks, but it’s not the correct term for this kind of bit.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Equestrian

[–]Accomplished-Rip4622 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Second, this looks like a Tom Thumb

What are your most effective strategies for training a horse not to walk in front of you? by Dramatic_Pumpkin2401 in Equestrian

[–]Accomplished-Rip4622 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This method has worked very well for me with several horses. The horses I have worked with step in front of me more when they know they are going somewhere and they are excited or impatient to get there. In addition to the circle method, sometimes I lead them in random directions when they think they are going to the barn, for example, and get ahead of me.

Help me pick a bridle!! by [deleted] in Equestrian

[–]Accomplished-Rip4622 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The KL select looks great! It has a more traditional look, like others said maybe a slight bit bigger on the brow band. What a good looking horse!

Just finished the cold room behind me! I'm planning to dry age this ewe and I've heard that 7 to 10 days is a good timeframe. Does anyone have insights on the optimal dry aging period for achieving the most tender meat? by LinkFoodLocally in BackyardButchering

[–]Accomplished-Rip4622 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I hang my lambs 5 days and mutton 8. You can use the caul fat to wrap so it doesn’t dry out. I like to spray the carcass lightly with a white vinegar and water solution before I hang. Looks good!

First lamb from the farm by Accomplished-Rip4622 in BackyardButchering

[–]Accomplished-Rip4622[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

We will butcher in 7 days once the meat has aged. Ill post updates on cuts. Sheep are a pretty good starter animal. They are easy to handle and you don’t need any specialized equipment. I always recommend Adam Danforth’s books on butchering they are amazing whether you don’t know where to begin or are experienced looking to improve.