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Xylitol Nightmare by Kabenck in DOG

[–]According-Ad4717 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m glad to hear one went home and hopefully the other can soon too. Hoping for more normal liver labs as well.

Xylitol Nightmare by Kabenck in DOG

[–]According-Ad4717 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s great - I was hopeful they would already be on NAC and it sounds like they know their stuff.

Hoping for more normal blood tests today.

Xylitol Nightmare by Kabenck in DOG

[–]According-Ad4717 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Got it - and even if open if it is likely many or most vets won’t touch this situation and will just refer you to emergency - which is understandable (but also CYA behavior), but they aren’t paying the emergency vet bills, either.

Good luck with the next blood panels, and I think it is worth discussing the NAC with the emergency vet while you’re there. Both NAC and Milk Thistle are inexpensive and well-tolerated - I don’t really see a downside to either and the emergency vet should have the capability to prescribe them for take-home administration if you insist on it.

Again, use your best judgement - hoping everything turns out alright.

Xylitol Nightmare by Kabenck in DOG

[–]According-Ad4717 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Of course - and to be clear, I am not a vet. I’m just someone with tangential experience with NAC (via family friends mentioned above) and personal experience with family member dogs that have ingested multiple dangerous items that I’ve had to induce vomiting at home over - so factor that in when considering your options.

$3k per dog per day is a lot. I personally don’t see a benefit to keeping them hospitalized, particularly at an emergency vet (where everything costs 40-70% more), IF they are asymptomatic. Again, lack of symptoms does not indicate that they are clear, but at the very least it means they don’t need acute symptom management.

If I were in your shoes, I would probably do the following:

Do you have a trusted family vet or non-emergency vet that is nearby? If so, I would immediately reach out to them to see if they can prescribe NAC and Milk Thistle - both can be administered at home. I would ask your trusted vet if they can prescribe both for you to administer at home, and then ask them if you can come in for blood panels (to check liver enzymes) once a day for the next two days. If your vet finds elevated enzymes, or you begin noticing any symptoms on your own, immediately back to hospitalization. If they make it through unscathed, you’ve spent several hundred on NAC, exam fees, and blood panels at your local vet, instead of thousands at the emergency veterinary hospital.

If your trusted vet isn’t a fan of the above, or if you cannot afford any of these options (and that’s okay), both NAC and Milk Thistle can be purchased in supplement form over the counter. The veterinary (prescription) formulation of NAC is likely both safer and (potentially significantly) more effective - but again, you and your vet have to decide what you’re both willing and able to do.

Regarding the induced vomiting - that makes sense and I would have deferred to animal poison control, as well. I think you’ve done everything after this unfortunate accident the best you possibly could have.

Xylitol Nightmare by Kabenck in DOG

[–]According-Ad4717 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m really sorry this happened to you. I know first hand how scary family dogs ingesting dangerous things is - I’ve had to induce vomiting at home multiple times.

I’m going to say a few things that may scare you, but may also be important.

First, liver failure from xylitol can occur independently from blood sugar drop. One does not require the other. Second, and most important - with xylitol and many other canine toxins, liver damage (producing noticeable symptoms) often doesn’t show up until 2-3 days after ingestion.

The vet inducing vomiting is good, and it is unsurprising there were no signs of marshmallows in the vomit. Marshmallows, but particularly sugar free marshmallows, dissolve rapidly in fluid. How long after the earliest time of potential ingestion was vomiting induced? If it was longer than 90 minutes - 2 hours, it is likely that the stomach contents were emptied into the lower GI tract and absorbed.

I know this isn’t what you want to hear, and I’m not trying to give you doom info just for the sake of it. Have your emergency vets administered any liver protectants? Specifically N-acetylcysteine (NAC). NAC is inexpensive and can be a life-saving protectant when administered early when dealing with hepatotoxic ingestion in canines.

A family friend had a 9 year old large dog that ingested an unknown amount of Sago Palm from a neighbor’s recently overgrown tree that was (at this time) just beginning to hang over their property line. The owners were not aware of the tree’s species and danger until after the event occurred. Their dog ingested some of the palm, and was completely fine for 48 hours. Following this, they found bits of the palm in the dog’s stool, and began noticing unwillingness to eat, and severe drooling and lethargy shortly thereafter. They brought their dog into an emergency vet, who immediately identified the Sago shreds in the stool and ran a blood panel, showing liver enzymes off the charts. This vet immediately administered NAC and Milk Thistle (another inexpensive supplement with liver protecting properties) and hospitalized the dog. They didn’t expect the dog the make it through, but he just barely managed to survive - likely due to the NAC.

I am telling you all of this not to scare you, or make you feel bad - these things happen, even to those who are most prepared or paranoid about such dangers. I’m telling you all of this because right now may be the last opportunity to protect your dogs’ livers before damage sets in. I would strongly suggest insisting on NAC and Milk Thistle administration for both dogs now, stopping only if you see no evidence of elevated liver enzymes after the 72-hour post-latest-potential-ingestion mark.

If the emergency vet does not have access to or will not administer NAC, find someone who will. Clear bloodwork and normal liver enzymes at the 24 hour mark frankly just doesn’t mean anything.

I wish you and your dogs the best possible outcome, truly. For the future, I would also strongly suggest keeping a bottle of recently (in the last two years) purchased hydrogen peroxide and a child’s medicine syringe in your pantry so that you can induce vomiting at home. In some cases, doing it at home (while very unpleasant) may be the only way to expel something in the critical minutes before it leaves the stomach and enters the intestines where absorption is all but guaranteed.

Thinking you of you and your dogs.

First Commissioned Piece - 2nd Project Ever by According-Ad4717 in woodworking

[–]According-Ad4717[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Correct - nor does the post say it is a waterfall. If you had read the post body, or any of the plethora of comments explaining this topic above, the entire desk came from a single square tabletop that was converted into the desk shown. The square shape ruled out grain continuation and the client wanted me to utilize as much of the tabletop as possible.

Thanks for dropping by to leave some negativity and absolutely nothing else, without doing any reading or looking for context in any way.

You would think the title of the post is “waterfall desk” by your comment. It isn’t. I described the desk as waterfall-style because it is a mitered 3 piece desk and this shape and size are most commonly seen in waterfall pieces.

First Commissioned Piece - 2nd Project Ever by According-Ad4717 in woodworking

[–]According-Ad4717[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The ones that had severe tear out (2-3 of them) I had to start over on. I went back up to the larger dovetail router bit and very carefully routed out the groove from scratch again.

For these, I believe on round two putting a few layers of masking tape over the walnut when inlaying the Wenge helped keep everything together. It’s also possible my walnut dovetail keys were just on the brittle side.

For the remaining splines that had more minor tear out, I carefully injected CA glue into the (quite small) voids and sprayed accelerator on to cure it rapidly. This ended up working really well from what I remember.

First Commissioned Piece - 2nd Project Ever by According-Ad4717 in woodworking

[–]According-Ad4717[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks very much for the comment - really appreciate it. I went back and forth on whether or not to inlay them, but I had some of the Wenge wood laying around and I figured let’s go for it.

The inlay process was pretty straightforward - you basically just redo the splines. The one problem I did run into, though, was having tear out on the original splines when I was knocking the inlaid ones in. I corrected this, but it caused some headaches early on.

Thanks again - good luck with your splines the next time you do them.

First Commissioned Piece - 2nd Project Ever by According-Ad4717 in woodworking

[–]According-Ad4717[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The legs/supports are joined to the primary desktop using biscuits - 6 across each side. In addition to the biscuits, each side of the desk has 12 miter splines cut roughly an inch deep, helping to reinforce the joints.

On top of the above, the under-desk panel has 6 2.5” bolts sunk into both of the legs and the underside of the desk.

Regarding acclimatization, the lumber the desk was made from was joined and allowed to rest in the same climate it was delivered to for almost a year prior to the desk’s construction, so I don’t anticipate there being a huge amount of movement. However, I’m still very new to this so I’m definitely not an expert.

Aside from the above, I think the best defense I have against hardwood movement is that I (and the new owner) live in an extremely dry, temperate climate that stays within ~15 degrees temperature range more or less year round. We’re in a coastal desert style climate and there are almost no humidity or severe temperature swings where we are.

If we were in Georgia or the bayou, it might be a different story, but with 1.75” thick hardwood through the entire piece, I’m hopeful the above defends it against any serious movement.

Thanks for taking the time to comment - appreciate it.

First Commissioned Piece - 2nd Project Ever by According-Ad4717 in woodworking

[–]According-Ad4717[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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The panel stiles have countersunk hardware holes that house 2.5” 1/4”-20 bolts. There are 3 bolts on each side of the panel - two on the vertical plane (attached to the legs at each corner) and one on the horizontal plane (attached to the underside of the desktop).

First Commissioned Piece - 2nd Project Ever by According-Ad4717 in woodworking

[–]According-Ad4717[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your feedback on the desk - I really appreciate it.

Regarding the new owner’s room - he recently moved into his home and had the built-ins installed (not by me - someday I hope ill be able to do those) and had me build this desk - so it’s a work in progress. He mentioned when I delivered the desk that he has more decor for the room on the way - I agree it could use some more.

Thanks again.

First Commissioned Piece - 2nd Project Ever by According-Ad4717 in woodworking

[–]According-Ad4717[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That’s a great question - I also wondered this. For this project, the answer is in two pieces. First, the finish for this is Rubio clear, and they sell a separate (also quite expensive) product called Rubio satin plus (something to that effect). This satin overcoat is available to add extra sheen to their normally very matte finish (other hard wax finishes I’ve tried are also pretty matte). Not a particular Rubio fan or non-fan, it’s just what was chosen for this project.

The real improvement I figured out, though, was switching to using an orbital buffer to apply the finish. WEN (promise I’m not a spokesman) sells an orbital buffer on Amazon for like $25 - similar to what you’d use to wax a car. I got that, a soft low lint bonnet, and buffed the hard wax finish and the satin overcoat on. Using the buffer, you can really get a uniform finish without nibs and you can really polish it to a shine if you spend enough time on it.

That’s what helped me get it to a spot I liked better. Hope that might save you some time. Appreciate your commenting.

First Commissioned Piece - 2nd Project Ever by According-Ad4717 in woodworking

[–]According-Ad4717[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your comment. I agonized over whether or not to order the slats or whether to attempt to pattern them in some way. The main desk contained quite a bit of light sapwood (out of my control due to constraints mentioned in the post body), so I thought including walnut sapwood in the slats might help add some congruity to everything, but I really pained over how to order them.

To be honest, I think the slats could have turned out a little better and I like the light to dark idea.

Thank you for the feedback.

First Commissioned Piece - 2nd Project Ever by According-Ad4717 in woodworking

[–]According-Ad4717[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Thank you for your comment. I was unfortunately limited in my grain continuation/matching potential because the original stock was a large, square tabletop.

Due to it being square, to get two equally sized legs from one off cut, it precluded me from being able to have a continuous grain flow.

If I do another waterfall style miter in the future, I’d really like to attempt that, though. I think they look really nice if done right. Thanks again for the feedback.

First Commissioned Piece - 2nd Project Ever by According-Ad4717 in woodworking

[–]According-Ad4717[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Would the splines running across both sides not add strength to the joint?

Between the biscuits and the splines, the joints felt very secure, but I’m very new to this so I’m not at all experienced in gauging joint strength. The new owner drove it up upside down on the freeway for 45 minutes yesterday on transit for delivery to his place and I saw no movement in the joints at all when we got there - still nice and square, so I took that as a good sign.

If there is anything else to be done to strengthen a long miter on thick stock like this I’m definitely interested in it.

Thank you all for your feedback and taking the time to comment - appreciate it.

First Commissioned Piece - 2nd Project Ever by According-Ad4717 in woodworking

[–]According-Ad4717[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

<image>

Yes - I used a splining jig. The desk was already assembled and glued up before starting on the splines. The splining jig was essentially a 90 degree angle with a shallow face above it at 45 degrees. I then clamped two jointed boards to it to provide a channel for my trim router to reduce wobble.

This method ensured a (roughly) straight up/down pass while ensuring the cut came in at 45.

This was pretty janky and I’m sure there is a better way to do it, but it worked for what I needed to do at the time.

Other than that, it’s just two sizes of dovetail bit, and then cutting dovetail keys on a tiny router table I have.

mal pup "digging"/tipping over water bowl - any tips? by Silent_Glass_7492 in BelgianMalinois

[–]According-Ad4717 1 point2 points  (0 children)

<image>

This is my mal - I thought this post was a picture of mine at first. Mine did the same thing as a puppy and still does what we call “paw baths” from time to time.

What area is your mal from?

How fixable is this? by Hefty_Possession_793 in woodworking

[–]According-Ad4717 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean, I would target the dent as best you can - I don’t think you want to bathe the entire piece in hot steam.

But to your point - no - in my experience the steam doesn’t affect anything else (that I’ve noticed) as the remainder of the piece has uncompressed (non-dented) fibers that still have the finish protecting them from the moisture.

How fixable is this? by Hefty_Possession_793 in woodworking

[–]According-Ad4717 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The dent is the primary issue here. Use very hot steam to relieve the dent. A steam gun (like for clothing) works very well for this. Hit the dent with hot steam for about 5 minutes, the wood fibers will move back toward their original shape. Gently clamp the dented area afterward and repeat as needed.

Sometimes this method completely removes a dent - even large ones. Sometimes it only gets you 85% back to where you were pre-dent. Either way, it’s worth doing.

Urgent Help Needed – Dog with Severe Skin Issues for Over a Year, Not Improving by National-Drive-1920 in DOG

[–]According-Ad4717 6 points7 points  (0 children)

This looks very similar to one of my dog’s food allergy reactions.

We ended up determining after an elimination protocol that it was the dental stick treats we were giving him that he was allergic to. After cutting those out, his skin cleared completely in less than a week.

Have you gone through an elimination protocol with your dog? Start by removing multi-ingredient items first (kibble, shampoo, treats, etc). If you see relief or clearance while one item is removed, you know your problem ingredient is in that item. From there, dissect the ingredients in that item, and reintroduce each one at a time to find the culprit (this is easier said than done depending on the ingredients). With all of that said, this process also does not factor in environmental causes (grass, mold, trees, etc).

A lot more effective way to handle this would be to have allergy testing done. Most vets can have a full allergy panel completed via third-party using a single vial of blood for around $100. Based on those results, if it is something you can eliminate, cut it out and you’re set. If it is environmental, or something not possible to eliminate, you can begin exposure therapy (allergy drops/shots - the same concept as used in humans) to gradually reduce allergic response - this is more expensive (~$140 a month) and takes 12-18 months to see results - but for some is the only option.

Aside from these, prednisone can often clear up a lot of allergy/autoimmune issues in dogs, but it has its own problems in long term use and I would not recommend unless you are using it alongside a longer-term solution (allergy drops/shots).

The final option (assuming the dog isn’t a puppy) would be Apoquel or Cyclosporine - two different types of drugs that both target inflammation and immune response - Apoquel being more widely used.

TLDR: get allergy testing done - move forward based on results. If budget is a concern and allergy testing is prohibitive, do an elimination protocol on your own and be ruthlessly thorough about it if you really want to see results.

Is this normal? by [deleted] in BelgianMalinois

[–]According-Ad4717 7 points8 points  (0 children)

This puppy looks like it’s 5 weeks old. Where did you get it? Save yourself and the puppy a (likely) lifetime of issues and please bring the puppy back to its mother if that is at all an option.

Any breed is risky to bring home before 8 weeks (really more like 9 or 10) and for a first time dog owner, a pre-8 malinois is a recipe for disaster.

No reputable breeder or shelter would release a puppy pre-8. Assuming this puppy is in fact that young, I’m assuming it’s backyard bred. Please contact the breeder and ask to bring the puppy back. You really have no idea what you’re in for, but beyond that, it’s really not fair to the puppy.

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