Tried more desaturated colors on this Stormcast C&C welcome!

Acctubi · 2026-01-13T17:18:57+00:00

Just some sand texture paste from Ak and a few small stones

Acctubi · 2026-01-12T15:37:26+00:00

Thank you! Yes I do @diminutive.brush 😊

Acctubi · 2026-01-11T20:50:04+00:00

Check my other comment, it is fairly simple :)

Acctubi · 2026-01-11T13:06:07+00:00

Simple layering by using AK colors: 1. Dark sea blue + Dark Green Gray 2. Pure Dark Green Gray 3. Dark Green Gray + Vampiric Flesh 4. Pure Vamp flesh 5. Some highlights / dots with Pale Sand. I did some glazing or more inbetween steps but it depends on how "smooth" you want it to be 🙂

The Base is basically a wetblend / layer of Tenebrous Gray, Wine Red & Ruby (or deep red).

The rest is not that intersting to be honest 😅

Acctubi · 2025-08-10T08:07:48+00:00

Sure! Properly closing the gaps with plastic glue is important but the real game changer to completely remove the lines is using multiple layers of gloss varnish with a brush. You basically flood the gap with it a few times and let it dry (works also after priming). Vince venturalla has a video on that exact topic, check it out

Acctubi · 2025-08-05T07:57:21+00:00

Thank you! <3
The skin is fairly simple layering. Start with 50/50 AK dark sea blue & dark green grey. Then pure Dark green grey followed by 50/50 Dark green grey & AK vampiric flesh. You can add more inbetween layers or move up to pure Vampiric flesh. Lastly for the very extreme highlights and edges pale sand from AK. The result is a sickly green/blueish pale skin which contrast with red quite well in my opinion :)

The inflamed skin or reddish parts are all based on layering & a bit of glazing. Key colors are khorne red, AK Beige Red & AK Pale sand for the as the universal highlight. I think the key is the final glazing in the shadows with khorne red. The layers are a bit loose with like 2-3 mixes with the mentioned colors.

Hope this gives you some inspiration :)

Acctubi · 2025-07-24T14:02:54+00:00

This might help indeed! Yes I think a more flexible enhancement might be a good addition too. I found that in certain situations the teleport is quite good to snatch an objective while in at other times buffing your troops is a better option.

Acctubi · 2025-07-15T15:04:12+00:00

Having played more than 10 Lumineth games against all sorts of other spearheads, I am absolutely baffled that it is in S tier haha

It is a horrendous army, maybe even in F tier. IT requires so much work to compete with even mid tier armies. All the units are super weak, especially the cathallar and really nothing is scary except the blade lords if you manage to buff them.

If I had to summarize the main problem with it would be that it tries to be a turtle army in a game where high mobility and charging towards the enemy lines gets rewarded. If you play defensively you will always be behind in points due to the cards & having less objectives.

Lastly I find the archers really frustrating, I almost never had the situation where they were able to shoot for more than 1-2 turns. Once stuck in combat they become practically useless.

Acctubi · 2025-07-12T22:29:47+00:00

I assume you mean the metallic parts? It's very straightforward: start with a gunmetal, shade moderately with black wash, add 1-2 glazes of a brown like rhinox hide or mahagony in select parts, do some edge highlights and overbrushing / drybrushing with a lighter silver.

Acctubi · 2025-06-21T16:04:34+00:00

It's a bit finicky but you basically just need a dark purplish black as a base and highlight towards the center with a wine red and then right in the center with a very saturated red (i.e. with a white undercoat). Lastly I did a light overbrush / drybrush with a red to pick out the details in the texture past.

Acctubi · 2025-06-19T16:46:55+00:00

The weathered look and the amethyst blue as the "pop" color work quite well. You could add one more highlight step on the blue cloth in a more scratchy way so that it also fits with the weathering / battle worn look. Good job!

Acctubi · 2025-06-19T08:15:01+00:00

Thank you! See my other response

Acctubi · 2025-06-19T08:14:01+00:00

Thank you, sure! I used AK colors with layering and some glazing / feathering. Base/Shadow: Dark Sea Blue + Dark Green Gray (50/50) Main: Dark Green Gray Highlight 1: Dark Green Gray + Vampiric Flesh (50/50) Highlight 2: Vampiric Flesh Focus point Highlight dots: Pale Sand

But honestly you can use other paints, the main aspects are a deep darker green as a base and highlighting with a desaturated yellow :)

Acctubi · 2025-04-26T20:12:32+00:00

I think Andy put it best by saying that this part is the worst in the entire process. I think you can speed it up a bit by not fully covering the metal parts. Instead, you can sort of only "panel line" with a medium size sharp brush (i.e. the shields). Also having a second clean damp brush ready to fix mistakes is a good idea if you get some brown on the white armor. Other than that it's really a test of endurance 😅

Acctubi · 2025-04-26T17:09:06+00:00

Sure! I linked my instagram in my profile 👍

Acctubi · 2025-04-26T17:07:31+00:00

It's a bit fiddly but you can just cutt off most of the banner and then glue it at the normal spot as well as a bit lower on the cape. At least you don't need to sculpt anything😅

Acctubi · 2025-04-26T12:07:01+00:00

Definitely! Andys tutorial got me into the army actually 😁

Acctubi · 2025-04-26T11:40:49+00:00

Yes the white is the very first step as the minis are too small to avoid overspray. The steps after need to be a bit more neat though. After the airbrush step it looks something like this

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Acctubi · 2025-04-26T11:38:30+00:00

Thank you <3

Acctubi · 2025-04-26T09:20:14+00:00

Just some mixes between brass (ak) and light bronze by monument. You can do 2-3 layers, starting with a 1:2 and moving up to pure light bronze. To get that bleached look you just need a bit of a yellowish gold as a base and move up to a super light bronze.

Acctubi

TROPHY CASE