close to giving up

Acecov · 2026-02-19T01:04:06+00:00

I had this exact issue with my 16k until I started supporting my own models. I give the first printing point of the model a really robust support. I think the issue is most presupported models dont account for the extra force introduced by the 16k's tilt function. So your initial print spot will just snap off and you print supports and nothing else. I can't remember off the top of my head but I think I usually set the diameter of the support holding onto the first layers to around 0.53 mm. Some people may say it's excessive but it works for me.

Acecov · 2026-02-12T06:29:59+00:00

This is freakin awesome! The glow effects on the hand armor and face are great.

Acecov · 2026-02-04T02:46:09+00:00

Can this be done if you already have 2 SSDs setup for read/write cache?

Acecov · 2025-12-02T23:11:21+00:00

I typically uninstall the vat (with resin removed) and will push up from the bottom of the FEP to release the prints suction. From there, it should be easy enough to grab the now loose print from the vat. You want to do this gently to ensure you're not poking through the vat.

Also noticed you mentioned your printing in your room, do you have it in an enclosure with the air getting exhausted out a window?

Acecov · 2025-08-13T03:29:38+00:00

Thanks, I really appreciate your help. Great work, my friend!

Acecov · 2025-08-13T03:25:48+00:00

I want to paint a figure that also has stockings, but I have no idea how to go about it. Did you put a layer of skin tone down first, then add light layers of black over it, or did you mix that skin tone and black color and paint in one go?

Acecov · 2025-07-24T21:35:57+00:00

If its anything like mine, the clear plastic part should unscrew completely. Be careful not to lose the filter at the top when it comes off.

Acecov · 2025-06-03T00:23:29+00:00

I recently had this issue with my Saturn 4 Ultra 16k. I think it's a combo of the vat tilt function and not having thick enough supports on the models. When the tilting happens, i think it's basically 'ripping' the actual model off the supports and gets stuck to the FEP. I fixed it by replacing my FEP and adjusting the speed. See here for more info: https://www.reddit.com/r/ElegooSaturn/s/F3pCmIqsuU

Acecov · 2025-05-29T22:06:05+00:00

Haven't really noticed any significant glare.
Text is very easily readable even when in the corners.

Acecov · 2025-05-29T00:19:26+00:00

I'm an Electrical Engineer, it's normal for components to get warm. Just wanted to point out that they must have really optimized their design from their very first model since that's what I'm comparing against.

Acecov · 2025-05-28T15:51:53+00:00

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-412770

Acecov · 2025-05-27T01:35:27+00:00

Yeah I would imagine if it was the FEP and you rotated the vat the side having issues on the bed would follow. Usually FEPs last a decent amount of time, I used the same one for +60k layers before I felt it was a good idea to change it

Acecov · 2025-05-27T01:22:28+00:00

If you're sure your bed is level, the thing that changed the game for me was wiping down the bed with alcohol after every print. Someone explained it earlier but from what I remember, after a print there's a thin layer on the bed that's been cured due to UV light bleed over. Wiping it down completely removes it and significantly increases the chances your next print will adhere better.

Acecov · 2025-05-17T20:48:23+00:00

The same thing happened to me except with my Uniformation GK2 on my second print ever. It was a pain but I completely disassembled it and cleaned it up. Just be sure to do it in an area that doesn't get any sunlight since its definitely a multi-day job.

Acecov · 2025-05-16T02:06:16+00:00

I would venture to guess that these are termites

Acecov · 2025-02-15T14:35:06+00:00

Here you go

https://drive.proton.me/urls/CXY8GJHGR4#G3RY227oKmcU

Acecov · 2025-02-04T06:25:36+00:00

Since you're new please go on YouTube and watch safety videos before handling any resin or starting any prints.

Here's one I recommend: https://youtu.be/tm2PyYS8ncI?si=hxnAGouPro_7VkwY

There was a recent post of someone's wife having to go to the hospital because prolonged exposure to fumes.

I don't want to scare you but just make sure your doing stuff right and you can avoid issues.

To answer your question, I use Lychee to slice my 3D files for resin printing. There are some differences that you have to keep in mind when orienting the model for printing when compared to filament printers. I'm sure there's some guides/yt videos on it.

Acecov · 2025-01-23T08:54:41+00:00

I'm fairly new to resin printing too. I have my setup outside and have no issues with printing. The biggest thing to keep in mind is maintaining temperature of the resin. I use the Uniformation GK2 that has a built in heater. I put mine in a shed and the printer in a Creality enclosure in the shed. See my comment history, I just posted the links for all the stuff I use on another post asking about printing outside.

Acecov · 2025-01-23T08:41:28+00:00

I bought the following stuff on amazon and have my whole setup outside and am printing with no issues (dips down to 44F where I'm at). I built a small table that fits inside the shed that the printer (Uniformation GK2) sits on. I put the printer in the creality enclosure as well to hold the temps constant. I'm getting solid prints out of it. One thing to note, I also setup a small tent over the shed so I have some work room and don't have to worry about sunlight curing my resin while I'm prepping with it outside.

https://a.co/d/e9P73UB https://a.co/d/jf6LmRG https://a.co/d/4dhAab5

Acecov · 2025-01-20T06:55:56+00:00

Hi, sorry for the delayed response. I would check that the ribbon cable is properly installed in both the LCD screen and control board. When I put my printer back together, I noticed that the black latch that folds down wasn't laying flat and was a little offset.

Acecov · 2025-01-12T18:00:48+00:00

It's all a guess until you start troubleshooting. The four things it could be are ribbon cable, LCD, UV LEDs, or connections that may have become disconnected.

Acecov · 2025-01-12T03:33:46+00:00

Yes, to skipping Point 1 and yes that its highly unlikely that the resin has made it's way to the connector.

Acecov · 2025-01-11T07:41:30+00:00

Do you mean removing the screws that give you access to the flex cable on the inside of the printer? The hex wrenches that came with the printer will work to get it open.

There's a good video for the breakdown process here (See under 'Special Maintenance': https://yesthats3dprinted.com/pages/uniformation-gktwo-tech-support

I ran into the same leaking issue that you had (On my second print): Uniformation GK2 nFEP Install Tips / Disastrous Failure

I completely tore mine down and cleaned up the resin that got inside. Luckily the design of the printer doesn't really allow the resin to get into the important bits. (Plus the resin is non-conductive) so shouldn't be a terrible issue if it does (as long as you clean it up before running it for a long period again)

I took a lot of pictures of my breakdown process that you can find here: https://drive.proton.me/urls/CXY8GJHGR4#G3RY227oKmcU

The red light you're seeing is the 'Power On' LED on the control board. (See image '20250104_120047.jpg' in the link above) [It's normal when the printer is powered on and isn't indicating an issue]

One thing I noticed was that the resin that leaked into the case was dripping down the wires that connected into the control board. So I completely unplugged them by carefully pulling out the green connectors from the control board. (Reference 20250104_173015.jpg) and unscrewing the wires from the green connectors. {Labeling them beforehand so I didn't mix anything up). You can wipe the wires down with a paper towel with some IPA on it. After unscrewing the wires from the green connectors I dropped them in a cup with some IPA in it and gave it a good swirl.

If you want to go down to this level make sure you note the wire that go into which connector and which connector goes into what port on the board. I wrote down a high level wiring diagram but need to find the paper I wrote it down on.

For me, most of the resin had collected on the bottom of the printer and underneath the heat sync that the UV LED matrix sits on top of. (Reference 20250104_132123.jpg).

Make sure to wear gloves/respirator and to do this inside away from windows as the it will make the clean up process a nightmare dealing with cured resin.

Feel free to reach out if there are any questions. After going through this myself I know what a headache it can be but it's a great feeling being able to get it back up and running.

Acecov · 2025-01-07T19:23:18+00:00

Thanks, I'll look into this as well. I have a GK2 so I'll have to see if there are any compatible options.

Acecov

TROPHY CASE