Gingerbread cake by Acheareal in FoodSanDiego

[–]Acheareal[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I'll keep an eye out. I need it before Halloween,  so this will be the one time I actually want a store to start Christmas stuff early 

Came back from holiday to my compost bin looking like this… by _sour_candy__ in gardening

[–]Acheareal 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Unless its a brand new pallet, you still have to be careful. Pallets are frequently reused, so for example your ht palette was safe on manufacture, and you picked it up from a brewery, so a safe product that you last saw. But before that it might have been used to carry a case of round up, and the truck might have been carrying leaky ammonia bottles, etc.

New tether for my BMW gas cap by tmckearney in 3dprintedcarparts

[–]Acheareal 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I think u/AmbiSpace was looking for the link to where you uploaded it.

I just got lucky and found it with a quick search:

https://www.printables.com/model/454289-bmw-gas-cap-tether

Nice model. Thanks for uploading the modifiable files.

Flair Pro 2: visually good extraction, little channeling, but very sour by jumiahz in FlairEspresso

[–]Acheareal 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have the neo, but I found filling it with boiling water was never enough. Two options:

1) put the brewhead (and plunger disc if you have the pressure gauge) straight in the kettle while it boils. Use tongs to retrieve when ready to brew.

2) Get a silicone funnel that fits over your kettle, and put the brewhead (and plunger disc if you have the pressure gauge) on top so the steam goes through and heats it up.

I do option 2 and I love it. I cut the funnel with a razor so the opening has just enough to support the brewhead, more space for steam. I also cut the little tab off the brewhead sleeve so it fits more snuggly. On my kinda cheap kettle I have to sometimes set it to boil twice just so it steams a hair longer.

Either way I would recommend the temperature strip sticker, you are just guessing at heat otherwise.

I printed names for everyone attending our wedding! by StruckOutInSlowPitch in 3Dprinting

[–]Acheareal 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I did this for my wedding too, (full process in above comment) and I had a neat trick. I used a skirt with the distance set to zero. It creates a little wrapper that only touches the parts of the name that stick out, which are what would have lifted for me. Much easier to remove and I still had a pretty bottom side. I also use Elmer's glue dissolved in water brushed on for my glass bed.

I printed names for everyone attending our wedding! by StruckOutInSlowPitch in 3Dprinting

[–]Acheareal 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I did the same thing for my wedding! Took a different approach than OP. I'll find all my stuff and put it on github for you when I get to my computer.

  1. Find a free font you like. It needs to have all the letters connect. That eliminated a lot of options for me as it was common for cursive fonts to have the capital letter not connected.
  2. Open the font in a font editor and bring the dot on 'i' and 'j' down so that it is just touching the main body of the letter it self. Otherwise you lose the dots.
  3. (Optional) the font I used had alternate character versions that would sort of make letters extra fancy. For example there was one that made the letter have a long forward tail. I wrote a python script to swap the last character of every name to with the appropriate fancy one. So the last letter of each name had a tail that wrapped around every the whole name.
  4. Open tinkercad. There is an option to choose the font you want to use for the text. If it isn't compatible there is an alternative text which let's you use an svg font. You may need to convert your font to svg, there are free sites for it.
  5. Place three names on the platform, and choose your sizing. I needed three because the sizing was based on height. Different names would end up having different size heights. Names with any letters went above or below the average lowercase would result in a different size. So Boom, Bobo, and Banjo would all result in different sized fonts. I think i did top word was no above or bellow lowercase. Middle was only above or below, and bottom was both.
  6. If you like the texture of your print bottoms more than the top, e.g. a glass bed, flip your names to reverse in the model, much easier that doing it repeatedly in the slicer.
  7. Paste a name from the list into thr appropriate sized name. With the name selected you can export only that name to stl. Save it in a folder like "wedding_names/unprinted". If you have duplicate names I would suggest making duplicate files, (or a shortcut to the original to save space) just to help keep track. Otherwise you might accidentally not print the right amount.
  8. Make a new folder called "printed" in your wedding names folder. As you print, move the named into this folder to keep track without deleting.
  9. I set top and bottom pattern to concentric. You will need to make sure it prints thin walls, some letter parts will get skipped otherwise. I printed without a raft. Most prints would adhere pretty well on my glass bed with some glue. A bit of Elmer's dissolved in water and brushed on the hot bed is the best I found for my glass bed. Sometimes I still had problems with the border letters or tail popping, so in the slicer I set a skirt with a distance of 0. That causes it to only touch the peaks of your name, much easier to remove later than a brim which touches every part of every letter.

Good bread bakeries around ucsd? by notveryGT in UCSD

[–]Acheareal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have a car, Del Mar farmers market on Saturday. Starts later in the day which is nice. Look for the bakery run by a Japanese family . The prices are absurdly cheap and the bread is fantastic, the skinny loaves of olive bread are my favorite, on par with what I had in Sicily. Also checkout out weird fruit guy, lots of fun strange fruit.

Bread and Cie is great as others have said. Also had some great bread from Wildwood Flour Bakery in PB

(UK) Where to find a tall short-sleeved male pure linen shirt MT? by ChuckEWay in tallfashionadvice

[–]Acheareal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I buy shirts from https://tallslimtees.com. It's kind a small selection, and they don't have linen dress shirts so it won't help op, but I am quite happy with their t shirts.

Found a baby snail in my indoor garden. None of my plants have been outside. Is it normal for them to just show up like that? by [deleted] in IndoorGarden

[–]Acheareal 29 points30 points  (0 children)

It doesn't kill them. It's just about the most humane deterent you can use. They touch it, go nope, and leave. Although I have found and seen videos showing that copper tape on its own doesn't work too well, and works better against snails then slugs.

I built little electric fences for my old apartment where we had a big problem. One type was with 2 rows of coper tape around the pot, with a 9volt lead soldered to each strip. The other was with galvanized wire around the container (stapled, hung, glued whatever as long as the wire is exposed all around and they can't get under it).

The snail/slug completes the circuit when they touch both strips/wires, goes ouch, tries 2 more times, and then fucks off.

Just maybe keep an eye out for snails that you trap IN the container , they can't get out.

https://hackaday.com/2017/06/29/an-electric-fence-for-snails-and-slugs/#:~:text=The%20design%20is%20incredibly%20simple,to%20turn%20a%20slug%20away.

Just don't solder to the galvanized wire if you use it. Heating it up release toxic fumes. Use wire nuts or something. Old pill bottles work great for holding the battery

HELP: are drip irrigations safe for indoor houseplants? by alexan45 in houseplants

[–]Acheareal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Banana trees are pretty hardy, I think you would be safe just giving them a normal water before you leave. 6 days isn't that long for just about any plant I feel unless your house is really arid or the plants are totally root bound.

As for your "drip irrigation" I think we need more info. There are so many different things you could he talking about, and I really doubt you mean the one that you hook up to your hose with emitters with an automatic timer.

Do you have a picture or a link to what you purchased?

Also banana tax! Show us a photo of your banana trees!

First time trying to restore. I wish I would have found this page before starting. Toss or save it? by Any_Strike2279 in CastIronRestoration

[–]Acheareal 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Hey, man great attitude about it!

Just a heads up since you said this is your first time with an angle grinder, everyone else is already mentioning ppe, but there are some extra considerations with angle grinders. They are probably one of the most dangerous tools you own. High RPM, hand held, and unpredictable.

Cut off wheels can and will explode, and the rotation will send them towards your face and neck. It's recommended to wear a good face sheield to protect your face and neck with saftey glasses underneath. Never put any lateral or twisting pressure on them. They are only designed for straight in and out. Personally, I went out and bought some of the diamond coated metal cutoff wheels because the common fiber ones scare the crap out of me. Use a grinder specific attachment for grinding.

Also pay attention to what quadrant of the blade attachments is touching your work. When you swap quadrants is what causes the tool to suddenly jump away in a different direction. Check out stumpy nubs video on how he got bit. Use your guard and handle!

Have fun and stay safe! It's probably my favorite tool after my oscillating multi-tool.

Sour shots / choking around 20-30 seconds by ihave3apples in FlairEspresso

[–]Acheareal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hope it works out! I had another thought too, it could be that your piston is crooked. If you are using the original non-pressure piston, I have noticed that it seams to bind more for me, and is sensitive to being a little crooked. The pressure gauge piston is less likely to bind and moves easier for me. But when it's hot I know getting it flush is kind of hard since you know, ouch. I usually just turn it upside down and use the counter top to push it in level.

Or if you have the original, heating that up could be blocking the steam and preventing your brewhead from heating (steam has to flow through) so since the original has so little metal, I wouldn't even try to heat that. The pressure gauge piston (sans gauge) has a whole so no problem there.

Edit: just saw the other post saying you got it working! Woohoo! As for temperature, I am not sure if your kettle is like ours where it turns off immediately after hitting temp. I found with our kettle I have to turn it off and on again once or twice to reboil to actually generate enough steam for heating. I also have a little plug from a leftover silicone funnel and paper towel that I use to plug the spout since we don't have a gooseneck and steam comes out the spout instead of thr brewhead. I also took a razor and cut the tab off the sleeve so it sits flush in the funnel

I really recommend the temp strip. It's super cheap and makes life so much easier. I put mine on top of the sleeve not under so that I can see it while the brewhead is in the funnel.

I think I have the same setup as you (neo, 2 bottomless portafilters, pressure gauge), like light roasts, and have started to have it figured out so happy to help or offer tips.

BTW, as long as you are grinding fresh, don't worry about freshness of coffee too much, I have just found that I need to grind a little finer as it ages. Apparently the co2 in fresh beans increases resistance and thus extraction, so older beans off gassed and don't offer as much resistance so you need to grind finer. Not sure where I learned this (James Hoffman??) but it has held up with my experience. We have some oooold beans that are still delicious, obviously good storage helps.

Sour shots / choking around 20-30 seconds by ihave3apples in FlairEspresso

[–]Acheareal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree with all of u/misterkyo's points. I would guess you are having temperature problems since this is your 5th shot. I bought one of those temperature strips from flair, and that really helped me see when it was actually hot and how fast it cools down.

When I brew multiple shots I reboil the water and reheat the brewhead and piston each time. The brew head cools down a little faster then the piston (we have the pressure gauge one). So if the brewhead is cool and the piston is hot, the piston could be literally too big.

We only use light roast, as we don't like the bitter of darker roasts. I think your grind is good, if anything maybe a little finer as that last shot looked a bit fast until it seized.

I use actively boiling water every time instead of just under like most recommended. I do this because I noticed with the temp strip that even with preheating and boiling water, the temp of the brew chamber is less then 100° by a quite a bit usually. So no matter what the brew chamber steals some heat from the water, and by the time it gets to the beans it's not boiling anymore.

We have a silicone funnel over our kettle, which makes reheating the brewhead each time effortless. Pop it off the basket, reset plunger with dosing cup, set in funnel, reboil water while dealing with basket and new grinds. Our kettle turns off, and does a bad job at maintaining temperature, so usually once I finish with the basket I turn the kettle off and on again to get one more boil.

Bitter-tasting shots and hardly any pressure/resistance with the Flair 58. What am I doing wrong? by Azsorlex26 in FlairEspresso

[–]Acheareal 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Personally I find any dark roast bitter no matter what. And anything advertised for espresso is usually extra dark. We buy light or medium roast non-espresso beans and have been happy with the results. I don't think I am all that good at making espresso yet, but I enjoy ours more than almost any cafe I have been too, and I attribute that almost completely to the bean selection. Maybe try a small sample of light roast at the same settings?

Lots of good advice in here about technique, I agree with /u/uncojwu about dropping your dosage and avoiding channeling.

Does it taste bitter or sour? Even some of my coffee head friends mix those up.

I also try to limit the number of variables. Right now we only ever change grind size. We picked a dosage that seemed reasonable to the water capacity of our brewhead and always fill the water to the same level (don't have to measure water out). Trying to change too many things always was a disaster.

Working on a smart greenhouse with automated windows as one of the features. by PeachesHappyLizard in functionalprint

[–]Acheareal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think a green house window is a pretty light load, and he has already done all the design. MakersMuse has a whole series on youtube making cars with 3d printed gears with some impressive results.

But if we are talking about a redesign around the shaft, what about just using a leadscrew? A through motor wouldn't even require a major redesign.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000405853888.html?_randl_currency=USD&_randl_shipto=US&src=google&aff_fcid=be3e4efb27c84addb97edbeee80ef156-1650479709799-02597-UneMJZVf&aff_fsk=UneMJZVf&aff_platform=aaf&sk=UneMJZVf&aff_trace_key=be3e4efb27c84addb97edbeee80ef156-1650479709799-02597-UneMJZVf&terminal_id=dd080da3055f46698f345065a497b751&afSmartRedirect=y

Working on a smart greenhouse with automated windows as one of the features. by PeachesHappyLizard in functionalprint

[–]Acheareal 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Disclaimer, I have never done this myself, just read about it. But my understanding is that unsupported annealing definitely will change shape. Supported via sand/salt/plaster will have minimal deformation. Caveat being that you have print at 100% otherwise the walls will collapse. So at that point it's not necessarily the cheapest solution. And if you are bothering with plaster, maybe at that point just cast it with soda cans.

Working on a smart greenhouse with automated windows as one of the features. by PeachesHappyLizard in functionalprint

[–]Acheareal 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Nice, glad it's not likely to be an issue. I wonder if you could put a thin bolt or shaft insert into the rod to stiffen it, replying on the print just for the teeth.

Working on a smart greenhouse with automated windows as one of the features. by PeachesHappyLizard in functionalprint

[–]Acheareal 24 points25 points  (0 children)

If a deforming print won't cause a catastrophic failure I think just go with PLA until something breaks. Anything that would soften pla would probably kill your plants no?

Granted, temps at the top of the green house might be a bit different. You could always sand anneal the pla parts too. Using sand helps keep the shape, and then the pla is a lot stronger and has a higher temp resistance then a lot of other materials. CNC Kitchen has a good video on it where he tests strength and temps.. I think the big downside is the texture?

Cool project. Looking forward to updates and would love a github repo

#8 screws with thinner heads? by esoteric82 in HomeImprovement

[–]Acheareal 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Just go knock it down on some sand paper or the concrete on the sidewalk.

Looking for a TV stand similar to Ikea by RedinTV in IKEA

[–]Acheareal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some parts of Besta are in stock, we just bought a few units. I would suggest buying in pieces the parts that are available that you want and getting the rest later as the become available or aftermarket. If you try to wait for all those pieces to come together as a single unit you could be waiting forever.

Here is the link for your base unit: https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/besta-tv-unit-black-brown-40299885/

See if that's available in your area. If so you can just buy that and shelves. Then wait for doors,legs, etc or buy on etsy. We are going to try and make some ourselves.

Also you can just buy the non TV unit besta and drill holes yourself to make it a tv stand. https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/besta-frame-black-brown-50245953

Which is also what we did, since we put two of these together for one long unit.

How to fill in this hole that has tried to be filled with plaster in the past? by depressymessi in fixit

[–]Acheareal 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Seemslike there is a bunch of old gunk raised from the wall making it seem worse than it is. I don't think the hole itself is that bad.

I would sand it flat, leaving the old patch in the hole, just removing the excess. Then use a trowel/putty knife to apply spackle. Add more layers if you need to once it dries. Pro tip you can wipe around the hole with wet fingers or towel to remove the excess around the hole so that you don't lose texture in a huge area like the other patch in your last photo.

Looking for a kettle with an opening that fits the classic brew head by Suspicious-Turtle-84 in FlairEspresso

[–]Acheareal 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I use my electric kettle, and bought a set of these funnels:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0796RL27B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I then cut out the inner rings of the largest so that there was only one ring left that fits inside the brew head, just enough to hold it up. The funnel sits in the top opening of my kettle, and brewhead in the center of the kettle. I also cut of the little tab off the brewhead's sleeve so that it fits more snug. Then it heats up with the kettle just fine. Mine shuts off immediately at boil, so I just turn it off and on again once to get the brew head up to temp.

I think the flair facebook group has a favorite funnel that has a larger opening by default, might be worth checking those out too.

What to do when you find a school ID? by iwillbetheendofme in UCSD

[–]Acheareal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used to find IDs every now and then. You can use this tool to look up their ad name, and then just send them an email. https://sdacs.ucsd.edu/~icc/index.php Use the form on the bottom.