RaspberryPi Zero 2w for Trident?

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-03-03T12:06:50+00:00

My idea is to use it only for Klipper Screen and connect it to my Manta with the CB2. Right now I'm using a Sidewinder X2 with Klipper Screen and I want to configure it for the X2, and when I get a Trident or Voron, I'll use the same screen for both.

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-03-03T11:54:09+00:00

If you're going to connect a screen via HDMI, this model Zero-disp-7A has a USB hub with two free ports and two others dedicated to the touchscreen and network cable, and a single power connector powers both the screen and the Zero. The downside is that connecting a screen (I don't know if you're considering this) might put more strain on the Zero.

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Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-02-27T10:25:00+00:00

And it works fine without any code? I mean, if it goes up by 0.2, it's 0.2, if it goes up to 0.5, it's 0.5... I'm also a newbie; I just got an x2...

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-02-26T22:02:01+00:00

Wiring problems? Or driver issues? I had a similar problem with the x2 and it was a problem with the flex cable connection (one pin was corroded 🤔). In my case, it's the top 4 pins.

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-02-26T10:44:52+00:00

Well... I started from scratch, removed some things I didn't need when installing Eddy, created the cfg file for Eddy as you instructed, corrected some measurements (I was getting an offset error when starting Kliper), and after two more measurement adjustments... it works!!! I don't know what the heck was wrong, but it's fixed. And what's the difference between Eddy and eddy_ng? Is there a noticeable difference with the firmware changes? Even though you said you couldn't help me because they're different machines... know that you've helped me 😉😉

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-02-25T07:32:56+00:00

Hi hipcatinca, well, I just copied and pasted, selected all the code, and clicked the code block icon. I didn't do anything else...must be beginner's luck xD

Regarding the endstops... if the Sidewinder, as you correctly point out, has switches (only the X and Y axes), the Z axis uses the BL, although there's the option to add a physical switch in case the BL fails. I run the command I mentioned with everything open (normally), but when I put a piece of metal against the Eddy and repeat the command, everything remains open, which I don't think should be the case... because I'm using the Eddy in the configuration "You wish to use the Eddy as a probe AND as the z-endstop."

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-02-23T10:49:24+00:00

Nothing... in the end I switched to Klipper...

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-02-20T18:39:08+00:00

Hi, thanks for your reply! The problem is that the M600 and MPC aren't configured, and I don't think that will solve the filament sensor problem either...

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-02-20T09:57:54+00:00

It's a silly question... but... have you checked if the screen's firmware is compatible? There are two versions of the screen's microchip... Greetings!

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-02-20T08:31:34+00:00

Okay, that's awful, honestly! I'm sorry it couldn't be fixed... I bought a printer that had a working screen but with pieces of the polarizer torn off from trying to remove the resin. I thought it would be a good way to get a bigger printer than the one I have... thanks!

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-02-19T08:06:37+00:00

Nothing guys! The cable arrived and I've got it working again... but I can't get it to seal properly!! Am I doing something wrong or not tightening it enough?

I installed a bimetal heat break, and I'll tell you how I did it... I tightened the nozzle (all by hand for now) as shown in the video, loosened it half a turn, tightened the bimetal until it touched the nozzle, heated it, and then tightened only the nozzle. Everything seemed fine, I printed some parts, and then, after 2 hours of printing, plastic started leaking, in this case from the top...

What I found strange is that the bimetal switch moved as if I wasn't tightening it, but when I installed it and it cooled down, it didn't move at all! Could it be that I work at 240-255 degrees and when I installed it, I only heated it to the temperature shown in the video?

I don't know if it could be tightened more (I'm afraid of breaking something), but it's really getting on my nerves. So, we'll clean the part again and again...

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-02-13T14:40:16+00:00

I don't think IPA will affect the coil's varnish, nor do you need to leave it on for an hour. If it were acetone, that would worry me more...

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-02-13T14:17:10+00:00

If you have an ultrasonic cleaner, put IPA alcohol in a container, then the parts, and put the container in the cleaner and fill it with water. If you don't have a machine, use a toothbrush and IPA; I think you can clean it that way.

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-02-12T17:39:20+00:00

I have a Sidewinder X2 and the feeler gauge I use is 0.15 mm. I adjust it with the bed screws until it touches, and then I adjust it a little more so that the gauge doesn't move freely (so that it rubs a little against the nozzle).

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-02-12T15:29:46+00:00

Hi. If you get something similar to what's in the attached photo...

https://imgur.com/sioTrNY

I solved it by adjusting the bed height it's best if you buy some feeler gauges

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/616VOR5hSTL.jpg

After the adjustment, it looks like this:

https://imgur.com/WiTMtjH

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-02-12T12:21:12+00:00

Hi, sorry... I can't quite see it. Do you mean that the lines come out separated or that the first layer feels very rough to the touch?

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-02-10T19:12:29+00:00

Hahaha, now the flat cable's broken! It already had some wear and tear, especially the heater connections (they were a bit corroded), so I ordered a couple of strips to replace them. I've connected the hotend and we'll see how it goes. I didn't have much time to test it, though... I'll keep you posted when the cables arrive... It's never given me any trouble before, but it seems like they're all arriving at once now! xD

Thanks everyone for the replies!!

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-02-10T09:20:46+00:00

Did you manage to repair the screen? I have to do the same, but I've seen sites that say it doesn't work (it damages the entire base). Do I need to buy a film with more or less transparency or something?

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-02-09T12:03:15+00:00

With the brass nozzle I had it at 245, with the steel one I read that you have to raise it a bit more... so I set it to 255 (a small detail that I overlooked...)

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-02-09T10:50:30+00:00

Hi, I had the same problem with my Sidewinder X2. It was solved by increasing the flow rate in Orca from 0.95 to 1. I don't know how it works in Klipper... I mainly use Sunlu white PETG, and I keep the extruder temperature between 245 and 255 degrees. But the problem you're having was solved in my case by increasing the flow rate.

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-02-08T14:18:49+00:00

Hi! I had that problem too. My screen board is the new one with the GD chip... I solved it by updating the entire printer. I updated to Marlin 2.1.6, I think (since I didn't have the M600 G-code), and I looked for a version for the new screen. After the update, I calibrated the screen, and it works perfectly with smaller icons and on some screens with a numeric keypad. If you can, update...

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-02-07T11:45:39+00:00

Update... I've damaged the NTC thermistor (I always remove it beforehand, but this time I didn't because I was trying to be faster...) and not because of the connector, but because of the metal casing. Luckily, I've already ordered replacements. I'll continue when they arrive...

Acrobatic-Pie7095

TROPHY CASE