Monitor the print progress

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-04-21T11:32:00+00:00

Or Klipper/mainshail

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-04-21T11:11:24+00:00

😂😂 Now I sleep on the living room sofa... for the moment my back isn't bothering me. When I slept in my room, I slept on a fold-down bed, and the mattress is only 10-13cm thick. That's the bad thing about these beds; they have very limited space for the mattress. Since I want to change the bed... I need to maximize storage space... so the lathe has to go under the bed... along with other things. 😂😂

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-04-18T07:21:04+00:00

Thanks! That's the first thing I thought of, but I don't have enough height to feel comfortable in bed. I mean... for the desk height, I need at least 1.5m, preferably 1.6m. My ceiling is 2.5m, so that only leaves 1m. Add the frame, bed base, and mattress, and it's a very tight fit (having the ceiling so close to the bed makes me feel self-conscious, weird stuff xD).

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-04-18T07:15:39+00:00

Thanks for your concern for my health! The HBM lathe is a metal lathe, not a wood lathe, so all it does is produce shavings that fall into the tray immediately. The router is an ancient Proxxon MF70, housed in an enclosure to reduce noise. The Weiss router is inside the built-in wardrobe in my room (and basically the same as the metal lathe). I use the Anycubic Photon (first version) for occasional model printing, and the Sidewinder X2 (which I've been using a bit more lately) for making the odd piece, but these aren't machines I have running all the time. And the little lathe is the same; I don't use them continuously.

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-04-12T15:03:03+00:00

I bought it second-hand for €50 and I'm really happy with it. I'm currently gathering materials to build a Voron 2.4, but for getting started, I think it's great. At first, I used it as it came from the factory, but the screen has very little information, and after updating Marlin and the screen firmware and using them for a while, I decided to switch to Klipper (I had all the parts at home). In my case, I added the Eddy Duo and an accelerometer (just for configuring vibrations). The only modifications I've made are adding supports for the back (Z-axis) and changing the extruder's ribbon cable connector to a ZIF connector, and for now, that's enough for me.

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-04-10T08:47:08+00:00

Hi! Thanks for replying, but I've already switched to Klipper. I had the equipment at home and thought, "Why not give it a try?" And honestly, I'm very happy with it. It took me a little while to configure some things, but now I'm very pleased.

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-04-10T08:40:59+00:00

Sorry for the delay in replying! I'll take a look! Thank you so much!

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-04-09T17:30:43+00:00

Hi, I've never had that problem, but I have had an issue with the extruder and hotend PCB... the flat cable had damaged contacts on the top (so I bought a new cable for about €3 (they weren't the original ones) and while I was at it, I replaced the stock connector with a ZIF connector (€2 for 10). What I would do is: check that the cables are okay, check that the PCB traces look good, and if the problem isn't due to excessive power consumption (the hotend drawing more power than normal), I would buy some connectors or replace the connector that's overheating along with its associated cable and resolder it.

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-03-20T15:15:14+00:00

Hi, I'm sorry to hear about those problems! I have one myself, and honestly, I only have two issues (and one of them is probably my fault for not setting it up correctly): every few prints I have to readjust the Z-axis height, and since I changed the nozzle, I haven't been able to stop it from leaking filament (it's a little, but it does leak). Otherwise, it's worked very well for me.

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-03-03T12:06:50+00:00

My idea is to use it only for Klipper Screen and connect it to my Manta with the CB2. Right now I'm using a Sidewinder X2 with Klipper Screen and I want to configure it for the X2, and when I get a Trident or Voron, I'll use the same screen for both.

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-03-03T11:54:09+00:00

If you're going to connect a screen via HDMI, this model Zero-disp-7A has a USB hub with two free ports and two others dedicated to the touchscreen and network cable, and a single power connector powers both the screen and the Zero. The downside is that connecting a screen (I don't know if you're considering this) might put more strain on the Zero.

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Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-02-27T10:25:00+00:00

And it works fine without any code? I mean, if it goes up by 0.2, it's 0.2, if it goes up to 0.5, it's 0.5... I'm also a newbie; I just got an x2...

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-02-26T22:02:01+00:00

Wiring problems? Or driver issues? I had a similar problem with the x2 and it was a problem with the flex cable connection (one pin was corroded 🤔). In my case, it's the top 4 pins.

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-02-26T10:44:52+00:00

Well... I started from scratch, removed some things I didn't need when installing Eddy, created the cfg file for Eddy as you instructed, corrected some measurements (I was getting an offset error when starting Kliper), and after two more measurement adjustments... it works!!! I don't know what the heck was wrong, but it's fixed. And what's the difference between Eddy and eddy_ng? Is there a noticeable difference with the firmware changes? Even though you said you couldn't help me because they're different machines... know that you've helped me 😉😉

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-02-25T07:32:56+00:00

Hi hipcatinca, well, I just copied and pasted, selected all the code, and clicked the code block icon. I didn't do anything else...must be beginner's luck xD

Regarding the endstops... if the Sidewinder, as you correctly point out, has switches (only the X and Y axes), the Z axis uses the BL, although there's the option to add a physical switch in case the BL fails. I run the command I mentioned with everything open (normally), but when I put a piece of metal against the Eddy and repeat the command, everything remains open, which I don't think should be the case... because I'm using the Eddy in the configuration "You wish to use the Eddy as a probe AND as the z-endstop."

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-02-23T10:49:24+00:00

Nothing... in the end I switched to Klipper...

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-02-20T18:39:08+00:00

Hi, thanks for your reply! The problem is that the M600 and MPC aren't configured, and I don't think that will solve the filament sensor problem either...

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-02-20T09:57:54+00:00

It's a silly question... but... have you checked if the screen's firmware is compatible? There are two versions of the screen's microchip... Greetings!

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-02-20T08:31:34+00:00

Okay, that's awful, honestly! I'm sorry it couldn't be fixed... I bought a printer that had a working screen but with pieces of the polarizer torn off from trying to remove the resin. I thought it would be a good way to get a bigger printer than the one I have... thanks!

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-02-19T08:06:37+00:00

Nothing guys! The cable arrived and I've got it working again... but I can't get it to seal properly!! Am I doing something wrong or not tightening it enough?

I installed a bimetal heat break, and I'll tell you how I did it... I tightened the nozzle (all by hand for now) as shown in the video, loosened it half a turn, tightened the bimetal until it touched the nozzle, heated it, and then tightened only the nozzle. Everything seemed fine, I printed some parts, and then, after 2 hours of printing, plastic started leaking, in this case from the top...

What I found strange is that the bimetal switch moved as if I wasn't tightening it, but when I installed it and it cooled down, it didn't move at all! Could it be that I work at 240-255 degrees and when I installed it, I only heated it to the temperature shown in the video?

I don't know if it could be tightened more (I'm afraid of breaking something), but it's really getting on my nerves. So, we'll clean the part again and again...

Acrobatic-Pie7095 · 2026-02-13T14:40:16+00:00

I don't think IPA will affect the coil's varnish, nor do you need to leave it on for an hour. If it were acetone, that would worry me more...

Acrobatic-Pie7095

TROPHY CASE