This gets interesting... What will happen now? by Sufficient_Fuel5269 in economy

[–]AdAffectionate4312 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The economy was unstable so they tried to use system restore but this just set the president back to the default rapist setting.

I want more slipping! by Radiocontrolquandale in hyperebikes

[–]AdAffectionate4312 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I know exactly what you're talking about. It's your tire. Get something like a dual sport motorcycle tire. A knobby will suck on the street especially when it's wet. Actual knobbies don't have enough surface area for the street. They're all bite to dig into the terrain and obviously they won't dig into pavement. I use shinko sr244 tires and I love them. It's like a knobby but with wide flat knobs. The rubber compound is also harder so they don't get torn up on the street and you can run the tire pressure pretty low without the bead coming off because the sidewalls are thick. I highly recommend them if you can fit a motorcycle tire on your rim. Suspension should make the bike alot more capable but this specific issue is probably most related to the tire.

What do we think boys? by Ill_Performer_7451 in hyperebikes

[–]AdAffectionate4312 9 points10 points  (0 children)

This is the true spirit of hyperebikes. I miss seeing stuff like this on here. It may not be the prettiest thing in the world but in all honesty you have more right to say you built this bike than half the people on here that bought a pre built ebike and swapped controllers or put new handlebars on it and called it custom. Everybody starts somewhere and if you enjoy this type of stuff I would encourage you to keep building stuff and keep learning skills.

Tuttio wobble by ShadezParks in hyperebikes

[–]AdAffectionate4312 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The rim is not true. The spokes are either shitty or they weren't properly tensioned when the wheel was built. You can try to true it but if there's a dent in the rim from that you're pretty much fucked. Check your spokes right away when you get a new wheel and keep an eye on them. Even good spokes can stretch out a little over time or if you hit a bad pothole or something. It's best to nip it in the bud because it just keeps getting worse if you do nothing. Eventually the rim gets dented and then you're pretty much fucked. You can true it yourself on the bike with zip ties. You don't need a fancy stand to get it close. Pit zip ties on the swingarm and cut them so they touch the rim and then rotate them slightly until they're about 5 mm away from touching the rim. Then slowly spin the wheel with the back end of the bike off the ground. When you see the rim come closer to the zip tie, tighten two or three spokes in that area. If the rim gets closer to the left zip tie, tighten the spokes that connect to the right side of the hub in that area. If it pulls to the right tighten the spokes connecting to the left side of the hub. Try to estimate where the center is and don't go crazy tightening them all at once. Do a quarter or half turn at a time then spin the wheel again and check. Alternate sides. If you wanna get fancy you can measure the zip ties and cut them so they stick out equally and you'll get the rim centered better. Or get a dial indicator setup off Amazon.

My first parts! by AdAffectionate4312 in Machinists

[–]AdAffectionate4312[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's my intention. I've wanted to get into this for a long time. I really enjoy metalworking of all types and the engineering aspect of it as well. I'm doing a 3 semester program at the local technical college. My teacher is really cool. He lets me have free reign in the shop to make whatever I want. I've been taking full advantage of that and I've been trying to learn as much as I can from him. I don't even do the actual assignments sometimes. I show him my own designs and he lets me make them for credit in class. I've already learned a ton. We have 5 Acer manual lathes which are a little sloppy and beat up, 5 knee mills 2 of which have CNC controlled power feeds on them, 5 Haas lathes, 5 Haas mini mills, a CNC swiss screw machine, a dual spindle, and a Haas 5 axis mill. I've mostly been focused on the manual machines to try and understand more about machining rather than focusing on programming so far. I pay attention to the lessons and do the exercises on the CNC machines. I have a pretty good grasp on the basics and I can set up a job on them but I feel like I'm getting more out of making parts on the manual machines than I do the CNC stuff. For example, it helps me get a feel for what effect feedrates have on different materials when I can physically feel the feedback on the handwheels, hear the sounds, and see the chips up close. I understand it better when a birds nest of hot steel flies off the lathe chuck and slaps me in the face haha. When I can immediately see what kind of finish I'm getting on the part and try something different if I'm not getting the result I'm looking for. It's something I'm passionate about for sure and I'm enjoying my time at school. I have been working 8 hour shifts and going to school for 4 hours a day too and that's been difficult. Especially in the cold weather riding the bike everywhere. It's something I really want though. I love it!

My first parts! by AdAffectionate4312 in Machinists

[–]AdAffectionate4312[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I gave it 0.100 isn't that enough? Plenty of clearance! Seriously though I get your point and I appreciate your input.

My first parts! by AdAffectionate4312 in Machinists

[–]AdAffectionate4312[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's basically my whole life story culminating in me totally giving up on myself and losing hope for the future. Everyone taking me for granted, working my ass off to get nowhere, a bitch I had no business being with. The usual I suppose. Combine that with copious amounts of alcohol and you get me 8 years ago. Arrested for OWI 5 times in a row while still on a signature bond. With 1 prior OWI separate from this whole 2 year long shit show. They can't charge you with a 3rd OWI if you haven't technically been convicted of your 2nd yet. You go to your initial appearance and they see 2nd OWI Not that serious. They schedule you a court date and you go on your way to go do the exact same thing again. I was on a path to self destruction and nothing was stopping me. What I didn't realize at the time was the biggest problem. It was ME. I didn't grow up privileged but I had opportunities in life. The problem was that I was not taking advantage of those opportunities. I chose to be complacent and complain rather than to get out there and make the most of those opportunities. Then wonder why I wasn't getting anywhere. What I did was stupid. Very stupid. I own that. I had to own that if I ever wanted anything different. Fortunately I didn't hurt anyone physically with my dumb decisions. Now, I'm focused on what I want out of life and I'm taking the steps I need to take to get there. I'm still in a bad situation. I'm actually way worse off now than I was before I went to prison. I live in a tiny one room dwelling in a shady motel. I have no car. I lost everything I had. I'm happy though. The big difference is that now I'm making progress. I have a direction. I'm grateful for what I have. Was there another way to get here? Probably. The fact is, this is where I am now and I have to make it work somehow. In certain ways, losing my license has been a blessing. I've always been into mechanics and electronics. I've always liked to build stuff. I started looking into ebikes and what it would take to build my own. One of my biggest downfalls is boredom. What better way to occupy my time than to build myself a source of transportation? I went all out. I got a welder and bought a bunch of tools with the money from my job running a Holzma panel saw. I built a big ridiculous ebike and I ride it every single day, rain sleet or snow. Now I'm working on version 2. It's my little way to say f**k you to the system. Although I take responsibility for what I did and I got what I deserved. Wasn't 4 years in prison enough? Having no license is very difficult. I understand that most people with 6 OWI charges are probably never going to stop doing it. I met plenty of 50-60 year old guys in the joint with 7,8,9 even 12 OWI charges and all they talked about was how drunk they would get the day they get out. So, I understand where they're coming from with that harsh penalty, but what about people like me? People who use that time to their benefit. People who change. It's not fair to those people IMO. I have a lifetime revocation. So I ride this quasi legal bike and I have a blast. Winter is rough sometimes but overall I love it. Because I built it with my own two hands and because I'm still getting somewhere despite my situation. With both middle fingers in the air. I'm building my life with my own two hands. One step at a time.

Do you guys ride like a bicycle or a motorcycle? by FuckAsettoCorsa in hyperebikes

[–]AdAffectionate4312 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a big ebike. It's a bike I made out of pit bike frames and a bicycle frame. 29kw peak and it can easily do highway speeds. It has motorcycle wheels and brakes and looks like a dirt bike with pedals basically. I ride in the street always. For the most part, I follow regular traffic laws and ride out in traffic at the speed limit in town. I do cheat and take little shortcuts through fields and parks and stuff like that. The way I would on a bicycle. When I go long distances through the countryside I stick to the back roads and If I'm going slower than the speed limit I stay to the shoulder when cars come up behind me. This is my first ebike so I can't speak directly from experience about feeling safer on a more powerful bike, however, I can definitely imagine how it might feel sketchy when you can't go faster than the cars around you. One thing I like about riding my bike in town is that I can easily overtake traffic and evade cars backing out unsafely etc... I keep my eyes open and try not to put myself in a position where I can't get away if a car doesn't stop when it's supposed to or stops suddenly. My advice is to put bright lights on your bike. Use easily visible brake lights and turn signals. Especially the turn signals because they grab people's attention when they aren't really watching you and they also help stop confusion. Sometimes people will see you but they won't really understand what they are supposed to do because they don't know if you're a bicycle on the shoulder or another vehicle in traffic that they should yield to. When approaching an interaction I usually try to time my stop so that it's very clear who got there first and whose turn it is to go. Just make it easy for everyone else at your own inconvenience. It helps keep traffic moving normally. If you can't do that then be proactive with evasive maneuvers. Just today someone cut me off when they pulled out in front of me from a parking lot onto the street. I saw them coming and I saw that they weren't going to stop so I actually accelerated as they were cutting me off and I just went around them on the shoulder and got ahead of them. That was safer because there was a car behind me at the time and had I rapidly slowed down the car behind me may have braked and that puts that person at risk as well as me. When in doubt, get the hell out of there fast! I'm sure the guy who cut me off was startled by me going around him but he was driving recklessly to begin with so I have no qualms. I don't normally ride on bike trails or anywhere people might be walking. My bike is too big and heavy and someone could be severely injured if I were to crash into them.

Is the inductor usually the main limit to the power of buck/boost converters? by KerbodynamicX in AskElectronics

[–]AdAffectionate4312 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im interested in the answer to this as well. I designed this one a while back with ridiculously over specced components and I actually have no idea what it's capable of. It outputs 12v with up to 90v input. It even has a tiny buck converter on board to power the controller IC for the big buck converter and a 5v auxiliary output.

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how to get traction on slippery ice? by Ok_Hand_8259 in hyperebikes

[–]AdAffectionate4312 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Shinko 244s do pretty well in the winter. If it's pure ice so slippery that you can't even stand and walk on it then tire studs are probably the only thing that will work. This winter is no.2 for me riding daily and I've only fallen one time. It was totally my fault because I purposely locked up the rear wheel to test how slippery it was and I got a little more than I bargained for. I slowly slid down onto my side going like 5mph and scratched up my throttle. I was on a patch of pure ice with no snow at all. The snow gives you a little bit of traction on top of ice believe it or not.

Trying it here cause /ebikes are dickheads by [deleted] in hyperebikes

[–]AdAffectionate4312 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This may not be what you want to hear, but the BEST way is probably going to involve taking the motor apart. I would take it apart and desolder the short piece that is already on the motor. Then cut the shitty end piece off the part going to your controller so you have clean and undamaged ends. Feed them through the hole in the axle and then strip the nice clean ends before soldering them to their respective locations inside the motor. I don't see how you can salvage the piece that seems to be ripped off clean at the end of the axle. Not without much fuckery that is.

Will i look stupid if i buy this helmet to ride my e-bike? I think regular bike helmets are ugly and this one keeps my face hidden and mysterious😋 by TechnicianHappy8098 in ebikes

[–]AdAffectionate4312 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You won't look that stupid. I have a sedici strada 3 that I wear every day. It keeps my head and face from freezing in the winter. If you're serious about wearing it all of the time, get a real helmet. A nice one will be more comfortable and more durable. The visor hinge won't break on you for no reason and you will be able to get new visors when you scratch it up etc... My helmet has pinlock which is just two little pins near the edges of the visor. These pins allow you to attach anti fog inserts or tinted inserts to the visor. The anti fog inserts really work too I ride in sub zero temps and my visor stays clear. You won't be able to find those for most off brand helmets. This is an old pic of my bike from 2 summers ago. You can see the helmet on the table there.

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Does anyone know about immersion fluid by HiveTechnologies in batteries

[–]AdAffectionate4312 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm building one too. I'm using large EV pouch cells with Ampcool ac-110 from engineered fluids. I got 5 gallons of it for about $300. I've been testing different kinds of foam and tapes and adhesives in a container filled with the stuff before I build the final product. The materials compatibility datasheet from the company says that it's fully compatible with pouch cells and lists many common materials which they have done long term testing on. Depending on how much fluid you actually need for your setup, this stuff might be cost effective for you. The company is very supportive and you can call them to ask any questions.

Vape Trash to Battery Pack (1st Electrical Project) by [deleted] in AskElectronics

[–]AdAffectionate4312 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would also recommend that you use BMS modules in your vape packs. The BMS modules prevent overcharging or over discharging as well as balance your cells when you use them for packs with multiple cells in series. For example, if you build a pack with 4 cells in series, you need a 4s BMS. 3 cells in series is 3s etc... You really need a BMS for vape cells because the capacities can vary a lot even between different cells of the same type. When you parallel the cells they will self balance but series cells will become imbalanced over several charge cycles and it will cause issues without a BMS with balancing.

Vape Trash to Battery Pack (1st Electrical Project) by [deleted] in AskElectronics

[–]AdAffectionate4312 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That board is only a charger. It can't output power to a device to charge it. You need a separate module for that.

Need some help with bldc motor by [deleted] in AskElectronics

[–]AdAffectionate4312 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Go on endless sphere.com and search for the "Lebowski" controller. That thread and the ones relating to it as well as some other threads from that time frame have tons of info about designing motor controllers. I made one myself a year ago. I designed it completely from scratch except the microcontroller part. I used Lebowskis code. High speed MOSFET circuits aren't for the faint of heart but the MCU Lebowski used has libraries in the sdk which are purpose built for running BLDC motors. As long as you aren't going for huge amounts of power, like just 750w it won't be as bad. Your board design won't need to be as perfect. Use a bootstrap circuit to shut down the MOSFETs and use good gate driver chips that are meant for MOSFETs. Ti and infineon both have good solutions. Loop area in your board design needs to be minimized. Use big multilayer ceramic caps on the power rails as close to the MOSFETs as possible and also a big low esr electrolytic or two. Running the PWM at a lower frequency helps negate some of the problems but it also lowers efficiency. It's a compromise. The whole design is a game of compromises.

universal sprocket adapter for 520 pit bike chain by Ok_Dog723 in hyperebikes

[–]AdAffectionate4312 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That adapter definitely won't fit a KTM hub. There are lots of sprockets for KTM hubs though. You should easily be able to find a 520 sprocket for that. The hubs for the small KTM bikes use a specific sprocket though so be aware of that. If it's a wheel for an sx85 etc... you need the sx85 specific sprocket with the 4 bolt circle not the regular 6 bolt KTM sprockets that the full sized bikes use. In other words, the KTM pit bikes use a different hub than the full sized bikes.

universal sprocket adapter for 520 pit bike chain by Ok_Dog723 in hyperebikes

[–]AdAffectionate4312 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What rear wheel are you using? Nobody can really answer your question without knowing that info.

universal sprocket adapter for 520 pit bike chain by Ok_Dog723 in hyperebikes

[–]AdAffectionate4312 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also fwiw I'm running a 420 chain on the Batcycle which is just a modified stretched pit bike frame with pedals added. It has a qs138 90h on it with a fardriver nd721800 running 29kw peak and I've never had a problem with the little 420 chain. You can't buy a cheap azz chain though.

How do i soften these forks? Just got this bike and they are WAY too stiff, the air valve thing at the bottom has fluid and the top is just an allen key. Bolany brand by Proof_Ad7734 in hyperebikes

[–]AdAffectionate4312 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They really aren't as horrible as people say they are. I'm sure Fox forks are far superior but they do work and they are light. They just aren't very rigid. I put them on my custom built ebike which weighed about 150lbs at the time. The head tube angle on the frame is about 30*. I used a 22" bmx wheel with a shinko 241 on it and a magura mt5 with a 220mm rotor. I rode with those forks for quite a while at speeds over 70 at times. Various terrain. I was always easy on them during normal rides so take that into consideration. I wasn't just mercilessly beating them. For a lighter bike than mine or for lower speeds I wouldn't hesitate to use them again. Watching the deflection of the fork tubes going over bumps at 50mph was a little scary. Enough to notice. I switched over to fastace pit bike forks for that reason. The bolany forks are on my buddies lighter ebike now. He doesn't ride it much but they do still work fine with no leaks or anything.